LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 

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UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 



THE CULTIVATION 



Peach and the Pear, 



DELAWARE jlND CHESAPE/KE PENINSULA. 



WITH A CHAPTER ON QUINCE CULTURE AND THE CULTURE 
OF SOME OF THE NUT-BEARING TREES. 



BY 



JOHN J.^'BLACK, M. D. 



/ 

"^■^^ With F*ii.ATKs. 






" Let there be thistles, there are grapes!^ 




WILMINGTON, DEL. : 

THE JAMES & WEBB PRINTING COMPANY. 

1886. 



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c^^ .a. 



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COPYRIGHTED, 1 886, BY 
JOHN J. BLACK, M. D. 




TWIGS OF A HEALTHY PEACH TREE. 

(From U. S. Government Agricultural Report.) 

PLATE I. 




TWIGS OF A PEACH TREE HAVING THE YELLCJ'^V'S. 

(From U. S. Government Agricultural Report) 

PLATE II. 




MYCELIUM AND OTHER FUNGOID FORMS FOUND ON THE LIBER OF A 
PEACH TREE HAVING THE YELLOWS. 

(From U. S. Government Agricultural Report.) 

PLATE III. 




SPIRAL FUNGI, FOUND IN BARK OF A PEACH TREE WITH 
YELLOWS. 

(From U. S. Government Agricultural Report.) 

PLATE IV. 




DISEASED PEAR. 

Attacked by fungi and entozoa. 

(From U. S. Government Agricultural Report.) 

PLATE V. 




ENTOZOA FOUND IN A PEAR, AND KNOWN AS " ANGUILLULA-" 

This genus was formerly placed among the Infusoria, but is now arranged 
in the order Nematoidea. 

(From U. S. Goverumeni Agricultutal Report.) 

PLATE VI. 




CELLULAR STRUCTURE OF BARK OF BLIGHTED PEAR TREE 
WITH SPORES. ' 

(From U. S. Government Agricultural Report.) 

PLATE VII. 




SPORES ON A LEAF RIB OF A BLIGHTED PEAR TREE. 

(From U. S. Government Agricultural Report.) 

PLATE VIII. 



PREFACE. 



If any apology is necessary from me for having 
written this book, it is due to the veteran Fruit 
Growers of the Peninsula, who know much more 
than I about all that pertains to the business. Yet 
I feel that I am doing a work, that will, in many 
wa)s, benefit them — a work that will cause dis- 
cussion, and tend to bring uppermost in their 
thoughts, matters which need constant agitation, in 
order to sift the chaff from the grain, and to check 
the inroads of ignorance and prejudice, which often 
creep over minds at rest. 

For the novice I have no apology. For him I 
have written just such a book as I feel and know 
would have been of very great help and value to 
me when I first engaged in fruit culture, and the 
want of just such a guide, in my early struggles, has 
cost me much pecuniary loss, and many bitter disap- 
pointments. 



20 PREFACE. 

In gathering material for the book, I have not 
hesitated to avail myself of the work of others, and 
when used directly, have always endeavored to give 
proper credit. My own opinions and judgments, 
where expressed, have been formed from close 
observation, from experiment, from personal ex- 
perience, and from the knowledge gained in my 
intercourse with the intelligent growers of fruit 
wherever I have met them. All my ideas have 
been developed after due consideration, and I am 
prepared to maintain them until convinced that 
they are erroneous ; then they shall be withdrawn or 
modified to suit a wider-gained experience. Any 
statistics I present are founded more or less on con- 
jecture, and it will only be necessary to go into such 
work as I have been doing to see how utterly bereft 
the business of fruit culture is, of any fostering 
care of government. State or National. 

The reader will please note that the work is not 
one adapted to all parts of the country, nor is it in 
every way a complete Manual of Horticulture ; but 
it is intended to be just what its title declares — A 
Manual for the Cultivation of the Peach and the Pear 
on the Delaware and Chesapeake Peninsula, with a 



PREFACE. 21 

chapter on the cultivation of the Quince, and some 
of the nut-bearing trees. I hope the advice it gives 
may be found useful in other parts, but all its 
methods are particularly adapted to the Peninsula ; 
and for the benefit and instruction of the good peo- 
ple residing thereon, I have written it. Its prepara- 
tion has cost me much work, and entirely absorbed 
as is my time, by the perplexing and harassing duties 
of an arduous and laborious profession, the oppor- 
tunities for its unfolding have been snatched, as it 
were, from hours which should have been devoted 
to needed rest and recreation. 

Nevertheless, some such Guide was needed ; 
and the labor of getting it out has been in the nature 
of a pleasure as well as of a duty to me ; and now, 
with the earnest hope that it may prove of some 
substantial benefit to the people of my native State, 
and of the whole Eastern Shores, and profoundly 
impressed as I am with its many shortcomings, I 
launch it forth, and I pray God that it may, in fact, 
bring forth good fruit, and be met by only balmy 
breezes on the gentle waves of a summer sea. 

JOHN J. BLACK. 
New Castle, Del., January i, 1886. 



TABLE OF CONTENTS. 



Chapter I. 

Introduction. The natural history of the Peach. Early Peninsula Peach 
culture. Peach growing as a business. 



Chapter II. 

Growing the Peach trees from the seed. The trees in the nursery. 
Budding Peach trees. 



Chapter III. 

Locating the Peach orchard. Planting the Peach trees. Care of the 
young Peach orchard. Pruning Peach trees. 



Chapter IV. 

Cultivation of the Peach orchard. Fertilization of the Peach orchard. 
Formulas for fertilizers, etc. Green Manures and Lime. Objections to. 
Rules for fertilizing Peach trees. Potash. Iron. Phosphoric Acid. 
Ammonia. Chlorine, etc. Peach tree washes. Germicides. 



Chapter V. 

Diseases and enemies of the Peach. Yellows, its cause, nature, and 
treatment. Analyses of healthy and diseased Peach wood. Prof. S. T. 
Maynard on the Peach. Frost. Curculio. Curled leaf. The Borer. Thrips. 
Aphides, etc. 



24 CONTENTS. 

Chapter VI. 

Varieties of the Peach for the Delaware and Chesapeake Peninsula. 
When, where, and what varieties to plant. Lists for orchards in different parts 
of the Peninsula, and for different purposes. Table of ripening. Table of 
relative \'alue of varieties. 



Chapter VII. 

Gathering the Peach crop. Tlie Delaware Fruit Exchange. Marketing 
the Peach crop. 



Chapter VIII. 

Canning the Peach. Conserving the Peach. Peach Leather. Preserves. 
Peach Brandy. Evaporating the Peach. Relative value of different varieties 
for evaporating. Sun-dried Peaches. Plans for Peach Orchards. 



Chapter IX. 

Fifteen questions to Peninsula Peach-growers, and answers thereto, fr»m 
between twenty and thirty growers. Shipping Peaches to Europe. 

Chapter X. 

The Pear. Introduction. Natural liistory of the Peai-. Development of 
the Pear tree, starting firom the seed; its anatomy, physiology, etc. Standards. 
Dwarfs. Hybrids. History of Peninsula Pear-growing. Pear-gi'owing as a 
business. 

Chapter XI. 

Propagation of the Pear. The nursery. Budding and grafting the Pear. 

Chapter XII. 

Varieties of the Pear grown on the Peniusula. Standards. Dwarfs. 
Hybrids. The shapes of Pears. Individual descriptions of the different 
varieties of Pears. 



contents. 25 

Chapter XIII. 

The proper list of varieties for the various kinds of orchard. The site 
and soil for Peninsula Pear orchards. Planting Pear trees, and what crops to 
plant among them. Pruning standard Pear trees. Pruning dwarf Pear trees. 

Chapter XIV. 

The standard Pear orchard. The dwarf Peai- orchard. Rules for fer- 
tilizing the standard Peai- orchard. Rules for fertilizing the dwarf Pear 
orchard. Formulas for Pear fertilizers. Pear tree washes. 



Chapter XV. 

Diseases and enemies of the Pear. Fire Blight, Twig Blight,' Frozen Sap- 
Blight, Frost Blight, Insect Blight, Leaf Blight, Blight of the fruit; their 
nature, cause and treatment. 

The Slug. Bark-Lice, Scale-insects, Curculio, the elements, starvation, 
overfeeding, cracking of the fruit. Decaying of the fruit. The Borer and 
other insects. Premature shedding of the foliage. Frost. Cracking of the 
bark. Analyses of Pear wood, healthy and diseased. Analysis of the 
fruit. 

Chapter XVI. 

Gathering the crop. Culling. Housing. Ripening. Cold storage of 
Pears. Marketing the crop. Evaporating the Pear. Canning Pears. Con- 
serves. Work in the fruit orchard for each month of the year. 

Chapter XVII. 

Eighteen questions sent out to Peninsula Pear-growers, with answers in 
detail, from between twenty and thirty growers. 

Chapter XVIII. 

The Quince. The Spanish Chestnut. The Japanese Sweet Chestnut. 
The English Walnut or Madeira Nut. The Shellbark. The English Filbert. 
The duty of Peninsula fruit growers to one another. The duty of the State to 
her fruit interests. 



Chapter I. 



The Peach is closely allied to the Cherry, the Plum, 
the Apricot and the Almond, and, according to Prof. 
George Thurber, although usually called Amygdalus 
Persica now comes under the genus Prunus and will 
hereafter be likely referred to as Prunus Persica. It 
originated in the East ; Persia, or most probably China, 
and in this latter country has been cultivated for 
centuries. Darwin inclines to the view that the Peach 
is derived from the Almond, giving his reasons pro and 
con, and I think his conclusions are the ones generally 
accepted at the present time. 

The tree on the peninsula reaches the height of 
from fifteen to twenty-five, or, even, thirty, feet, with 
corresponding ordinary diameter and circumference. 
The leaves have the leaf-stock, are lance-shaped and 
saw-toothed, and change in season from green to 
yellow or brown. Situated on the leaf-stalks, usually, 
we find, in many varieties, glands, some round or globe- 
shaped, and some kidney-shaped, and, again, some 
varieties glandless ; these latter commonly having 
longer teeth to the leaves. The glands, probably, give 



28 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

the peculiar odor to the leaf. The tree blossoms before 
the leaves appear, and usually the late peaches before 
the early ones, and this is one reason why the flower is 
so delicate, being naked at, and for some time subse- 
quent to, its birth. The blossoms are like those of the 
rose, expanding from the separate buds, and their 
leaves are usually pink — darker or lighter in shade — 
although in some rare varieties they are white, or 
yellowish-white. In budded varieties the flowers vary, 
being in some very open and in some nearly closed, 
whilst in natural fruit they are fuily opened. The bark 
is of an olive brown color, when healthy, and only 
moderately thick, and becomes tinged with various 
shades of pink as the sap advances to the branches. 

The Peach is a drupe or stone fruit. Some are 
free-stones, some cling-stones, and some neither the one 
nor the other, and, indeed, in some seasons, the free- 
stone-fruit does not easily leave the seed, as the 
canners and evaporators then find to their sorrow. The 
natural seed are smaller, as a rule, than the budded, more 
difficult to open, cavities smaller, are cleaner and closer 
grained, and in color are dark cream, or very light tan, 
whilst budded seed are more of a maroon color, and are 
in every way handsomer than the natural seed. The 
kernel of the natural seed is denser than the others, and 
seldom contains philopena, as the budded seed often 
does. The seed of weak or diseased trees is apt 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 29 

often to separate on opening the peach and to be 
gluey and gummy. 

Should large quantities of double-meated seed be 
found in a given quantity of budded seed it would rather 
tend to signify that the trees were on land too rich, and 
were being forced abnormally, and both the ovules had 
been fertilized and stimulated, whereas, in the peach, 
ordinarily, one ovule aborts and the other lives. Such 
overstimulated trees would naturally suffer from early 
decline from over gestation, unless abnormally fed, and 
this abnormal feeding might cause premature decline 
again — as we often see in high livers among mankind. 
The leaves and the kernels have a strong flavor and 
odor of prussic acid, and this is one of the peculiar 
essentials of the Peach. ~ The color of the flesh of the 
Peach is either, as a rule, yellow or white, the latter 
often being called reds, from the color next the stone, 
and on the peninsula both are equally popular, some- 
times the yellow and again the white gaining favor. 
The yellow varieties probably furnish the best specimens 
of the fruit, but at the present writing the white fruit is 
causing increased inquiry for all purposes. The varieties 
of the Peach run into the hundreds, but on the peninsula, 
probably twenty varieties will cover all that are at pres- 
ent usually planted. The natural tree has been known 
to exist on the peninsula for more than a hundred years, 
but as to the growing of the improved, or budded peach 



30 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

tree, on this peninsula, the first orchard of which I can 
find any trace was planted by Isaac Reeves on his farm 
in the suburbs of Delaware City, now owned by his son 
Clement Reeves, Esq., of that town, who has kindly 
furnished me with information in regard to the Peach- 
culture of that date. This was in the year 1832, and 
about 1837 to 1840 Major Philip Reybold, a man who 
has left an indelible mark in his community as an active 
and progressive citizen, together with his sons, Philip Jr., 
John, William, Clayton, Barney and Anthony, went more 
or less extensively into the business, together with 
other prominent growers of that day, among them, Jno. 
C. Clark, Dr. Emerson of Philadelphia, Mr. Spearman 
on Duck Creek, Messrs. Atherlee and Fennimore, on 
Appoquinimink Creek, and Jehu Reed of Kent Co., 
Delaware ; all these had large orchards up to the time 
the land refused longer to grow the trees by the method 
of cultivation then used. My father, the late Dr. Charles 
H. Black, was a pioneer-grower in Kent Co., Md. 
Since 1850 the Peach has probably been generally grown 
in the Delaware City region. I learn from Mr. Clement 
Reeves that the trees were obtained from nurserymen 
or grown by the growers themselves ; that they 
endeavored to use natural seed even after budded stock 
came in; that they manured the land with barn-yard 
manure, set out the trees, planted corn for three years, 
manuring the corn in the hill, and that this was all the 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 3 1 

fertilizer the trees received in a life-time. The trees 
were ploughed and cultivated and pruned as required. 
Mr. Reeves planted land the second time in trees with 
the aformentioned treatment, but they died of yellows 
after having yielded one crop of fruit. After that he 
and others abandoned the cultivation of the peach. 
After the Peach failed in the Delaware City region, 
Messrs. Polk and Clark went to Kent County, Md., and 
planted orchards successfully, and to-da)'' that county 
produces elegant fruit. So, by comparison, the Dela- 
ware soil gave out long before the Maryland soil. The 
soil about Delaware City is richer, or was then, and 
heavier than the Maryland soil. In those days the out- 
let for peaches was very limited and the growers of the 
then comparatively small quantity of fruit were often 
dismayed ; whole steam-boat loads being frequently 
thrown into the water, both at Philadelphia and at New 
York, to relieve the overstocked market. 

The world moves, and probably to-day, with the 
facilities at our hand, we can market successfully, more 
millions of baskets than our predecessors could market 
tens of thousands. Peach culture entered the peninsula 
cotemporaneously with the telegraph, and both have 
progressed with almost equal step to a point of which, 
probably, their originators never dreamed. The business 
was not active from 1850 to 1854, about which time that 
great developer of the peninsula, the Delaware Rail 



32 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

Road, was beginning to penetrate its hitherto hidden 
fields. Now the intelligent and progressive men of the 
section saw the opportunity for development of the 
culture of the Peach, and from that time the business 
has increased and prospered, until to-day it is, probably, 
above all others, the great source of prosperity to the 
good people inhabiting the land between the two great 
bays of the Delaware and the Chesapeake. 

The Peach crop appears to be running in cycles of 
years. In the " seventies " the business was poor, in the 
" sixties" it was better, and now, in the " eighties," it is 
flourishing grandly, the season of '8o-'8i being the only 
general failure. Improved culture and methods may, of 
course, be the cause of all this. 

The probable centre of the peninsular peach-belt 
at this time, under the present methods of culture, etc., 
is about Wyoming, in Kent county, Delaware, and 
extends north to Middletown, in New Castle County,- 
and south to Laurel, in Sussex county, Delaware, and 
in breadth reaches from the Delaware bay to the 
Chesapeake. Fifteen years ago, or less, the centre was 
probably at Middletown ; so it will be seen that the 
belt is spreading southward quite rapidly. The great 
problem to solve is, if possible, to bring back the centre 
to Middletown. by new methods of culture and other 
adjuncts. At the present time, in some parts of New 
Castle county, notably about Iron and Chestnut-hills, 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 33 

the very finest fruit is raised, and the trees are flourish- 
ing, if the red-clay soil is chosen. There is much iron- 
ore and potash in this red soil, the land is often light 
and stony, and is not in a high state of cultivation. 
The Megget and orther orchards, in this neighborhood, 
are celebrated in the Wilmington market for their fine 
fruit. 

There are at present on the peninsula probably 
between two and three millions of peach trees in 
bearing, and very nearl}' as many planted, but not yet in 
bearing, making in all, say, five millions of trees. The 
trees in the upper section are generally larger than those 
in the lower section, and by the large trees going out in 
the upper section, the present capacity of five millions of 
trees is not what it would be did the lower section trees 
grow to the size of those about Middletown, for 
instance. Thus the increase in the number of trees 
does not increase the fruit-yield as rapidly as one might, 
at first thought, think, and so the oft predicted glutted 
markets of the future may be avoided. 

The past season (1885) there have probably been 
raised and marketed on the peninsula three millions of 
baskets of peaches. The prices realized have been very 
handsome, and the business has received a great 
impetus. Many outside influences have this year aided 
the peninsular growers, and chief, of course, because the 
crop was almost a failure in other sections of the 
3 



34 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

country, reaching even to the far West. There is 
danger that such a state of affairs may precipitate a 
condition of " bonanza-farming " in peach growing, the 
planting of an excessive acreage, followed by neglect of 
the details of the business, and disappointment to the 
unfortunate neophytes. Within ten years I have heard 
peach growing denounced as a delusion and a snare, 
have seen magnificent trees pulled out as unworthy of 
the soil they occupied, and now again see men who did 
this, plant orchards and talk as enthusiastically as the 
most enthusiastic, about the great delights and profits of 
peach culture. 

Peach growing is like any other business, whatever, 
that a man may follow. It demands and must receive 
absolute attention to detail, from the very inception of 
the idea of becoming a grower, down to the hour the 
fruit is turned into money. Make the crop a legitimate 
crop, say one-fifth to one-sixth of your farm, and be 
careful when you plant, what you plant, and where you 
plant, and most important of all, attend to what you do 
plant, and this attention must vary with soil, location, 
and other surrounding circumstances. There are many 
uncertainties in the business, it is attended with great 
and inexpressible anxieties, and is not, by any manner 
of means, the royal and easy way to fortune that the 
inexperienced often imagine. The vicissitudes of the 
weather, insect-life, etc., are such that what promises 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 35 

everything we could wish to-day, is dispelled with the 
coming of the morrow, and the work and toil and 
expense of a year are ever present to mock you, ever 
yoked to your labor. Thus from year to year may the 
illusions of hope be dispelled, and often and often again, 
may the very fruit you are actually grasping be turned 
to ashes on your lips. 



Chapter II. 



PROPAGATING THE TREE. 

I declare and affirm as my opinion, without any 
reservation whatever, that the Peach should be grown 
only from the seed of the natural or unbudded fruit. 
Nature advances and does not retrograde, and this 
crime against nature, of breeding in-and-in, is followed in 
all phases of life by degenerate offspring, and these, not 
being fit to live to propagate the species, are self- 
devoured, as it were, to make room for the perfect 
specimens of the species — for only the fittest shall 
survive. I attribute a great deal of the loss and dis- 
appointment in the peach business to the reckless, 
careless, nay, almost criminal way in which the propaga- 
tion of the trees has been carried on. I personally 
know where seed from evaporators has been taken away 
indiscriminately for the purpose of raising nursery-stock, 
and I know that among these seeds were thousands that 
had come from diseased and premature trees. 

Not only should the seed be from natural truit, but 
even this should be carefully gone over ; only the very 
best specimens being selected for planting, and in this 



38 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

way may we make the start for perfect trees. The seed 
may be obtained in North Carolina, Virginia, Tennessee, 
Georgia, probably on our own peninsula, and some in 
Michigan. The strictest care should be exercised in its 
selection, and it would be a grand thing if every seed that 
comes into the peninsula could undergo legal inspection 
before it is planted. The cost of the seed varies from 
$2.00 to $5.00 per bushel, and ten to fifteen bushels will 
seed an acre of ground, depending, of course, on the 
distance they are placed apart. 

For nursery-stock, any good, sandy, or mellow loam, 
or the light, sandy soils of the peninsula will do. The 
ground should be thoroughly prepared by ploughing 
harrowing and rolling ; no fertilizer is required if the 
ground will raise forty bushels of corn to the acre ; for 
it is not well to force young trees too rapidly. Run out 
the rows from three and a-half to four feet apart, and 
one to two inches deep. This is best done by a sled-like 
machine made for the purpose. The time to plant the 
seed is from October loth, to freezing weather. In 
examining into this matter, I am persuaded that the 
best take will come from those seed planted not later 
than October 20th. The seed may be laid touching each 
other, or some two or three inches apart. Three inches 
apart is, probably best, and then cover the seed by a 
rake, or with the feet. The seed remaining in the ground 
all winter are cracked by the frost, and in the spring 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 39 

germinate and grow. When the trees have well appeared, 
they should have the ground stirred about them and be 
worked just about as we work corn through the season, 
throwing a furrow from them, and then again to them, 
and cultivating out the middles time and again. Don't 
fertilize unless the trees make very poor growth, or you 
are forcing them for June budding. Another method of 
planting is to spread the seeds over the ground and spade 
or plough them in, taking up in spring, when sprouting, 
cracking those not sprouted and transplanting to nursery- 
row. This way is obviously so inferior to the first plan 
as to need no further reference. There are other 
methods of which I will not speak, for the same reason. 
The rows, to get better light and heat, are recommended 
by Fulton to be run north and south. Of course should 
the trees come up too thick they should be thinned, say 
to four inches, and this will be found close enough to 
give a good tree and afford room to the budder. The 
trees should be worked until well advanced, at least into 
June, and even after that kept clean by hand, if necessary, 
of all weeds. If you want June-budded trees they had 
better be forced a little by barn-yard or stable-manure, 
thoroughly rotted, or by an ammoniated super-phosphate. 

BUDDING. 

What I had to say of the natural seed applies 
equally to the bud — it should be obtained from a per- 
fectly healthy tree, from a known variety, and from a 



40 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

tree known to have been raised from a natural seed. 
The Peach may also be propagated by grafting, but this 
mode is seldom or never resorted to now. In England 
the peach is generally budded on the plum, because it is 
thus dwarfed, and grows better against walls, the only 
way it can be raised out of doors there. On the penin- 
sula we bud from June to September, or as long as the 
sap flows freely ; but a vast majority of the trees are 
budded in August, which is, undoubtedly, the best month, 
all things considered. As before remarked, if the trees 
are to be budded in June they need a little forcing to 
give size. A man and two boys make a budding-team ; 
the man buds, one boy ties after him, and the other boy 
goes ahead and strips the trees of buds and leaves four 
inches or more above the ground. The buds may be 
obtained from nursery-stock or from bearing-orchards. 
The former are thought to take best ; of course the 
bud must be a leaf-bud and not a fruit-bud. The 
buds are obtained from the very best twigs of 
the season's growth, ilvvays selecting the best buds 
on the twig, and using them only. Cut off all 
leaves a short distance from the twig and keep the 
stick with buds on it moist until needed for use. The 
budder will cut them as he needs them, with a sharp 
knife, taking an elliptical piece of the bark only, reach- 
ing a quarter of an inch more or less above and below 
the bud. Now, with a budding-knife, he cuts a T shaped 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 4I 

incision through the bark, slits it up slightly, and deftly 
inserts the bud as near the ground as possible, and not 
over four inches above it, at most. The boy ahead has 
previously stripped the tree, to this point, of buds and 
leaves, and the boy behind ties the bud in with a bass- 
wood tie, which may now be found on sale ready-made, 
having formerly to be pulled from old mats. The best 
tie is a figure-of-eight, knotted around the bud. These 
trees having been budded in June are left until the buds 
are seen to have taken, say ten to twenty days, when 
the ties are cut on those that have taken, and those 
which have not taken can be marked and budded over, 
but probably might just as well be pulled up. Very soon 
now the tops must be cut away just above the new bud, 
all buds be kept rubbed oiT of the parent stock below 
ilAe bud, and the young tree may be set out the next fall 
or spring in the permanent orchard. Later budding in 
August or September does not differ much from the 
June budding, save that the tops are not cut off until 
the next spring, after the sap has just begun to flow. 
Then the old stock is kept rubbed free from buds 
below the new bud. Very little, if any pruning, is 
needed by the young trees, and the coming fall or spring 
they are fit to set in the orchard — two years from the 
seed and one year from the bud being apparently the 
proper age, although I know some of the most intelli- 
gent and successful growers who prefer the June-budded 



42 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

trees because they can be dug with the tap-roots entire 
and are easy of carriage, etc. In the peninsula nurseries 
the trees are now generally dug with a tree-plough and 
baled with baling-cloth with the roots packed in moist 
moss, or they may be packed in boxes, with moist moss, 
in which condition they may go safely around the world; 
the great danger being from too much heat rather than 
too much cold. If the trees in transportation get in too 
hot a place, fermentation may ensue and the vitality be 
destroyed, and the same may happen if they freeze, 
but first-class packing will usually avoid these evils. I 
have never lost trees but once, and they came from New 
York State, disgracefully packed only in a few leaves ; 
consequently they froze, and many of them were ruined. 

Taking up and shipping the trees is of vast import- 
ance to the grower and to the producer too, for mixing 
the varieties or doing the work so as to injure the trees 
must ruin the latter's reputation and be a source of 
irremediable loss and disappointment to the former. The 
nurserymen now do their work with such system and 
intelligence that I am glad to say very little complaint 
comes of any errors committed in the business, and it is 
a business, at once to the body, laborious, and to the 
mind, exhausting. 



Chapter III. 



LOCATING THE ORCHARD. 

Before writing this book, among other questions to 
which I requested answers from prominent growers, was, 
"What is the best soil for a peach-orchard, and what is 
the best location as to hill, valley, etc. .?" Answers to 
these questions will be found under the proper head. 
Here, I wish to give my own opinions. The peach- 
orchard should be on land as nearly level in all parts as 
possible, to give an average crop. Peaches do not, as a 
rule, do well on hill-sides, and, although in valleys they 
often bear abundantly and freely of the finest fruit, yet 
in them they are much more susceptible to death from 
frost, mature their wood too rapidly, and are apt to shed 
their fruit at some time in the season and be deficient in 
color. On hill-sides, as a rule, the trees do not thrive, 
and the fruit lacks all good points, except, perhaps, 
color. I like water, fresh or salt, especially fresh, near 
an orchard, and to the north, east or west of it, and it is 
better if the orchard be on a peninsula. I especially 
like water to the north and to the west, for freezing is a 
warming process, paradoxical as it may appear, and the 



44 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

heat given out often saves winter-killing of wood and 
buds, as we saw in the cold winter of '80 and '81, when 
all the peaches we had were grown near water. I want 
no woods or other shelter near my orchard. If I must 
have it, let it be to the east, and not to the north or the 
west. If to the north or the west, then the trees are 
sheltered, are forced ahead too early in the spring, and 
are thus more vulnerable to late frosts. I say again, I 
don't seek any shelter, but an eastern shelter may possi" 
bly save my crop, when a severe, cold, easterly storm 
comes at the last of the bloom. Yet, altogether, I 
believe even the eastern shelter, say in a period of ten 
years, would do more harm than good. As to soil, all 
the soil of the peninsula is more or less suitable to the 
peach, and there are many differences of opinion as to 
the very best. I believe the very best soil, if I could 
have the selecting of it, to be a strong, mellow loam, in 
fair agricultural condition, with only a moderate amount 
of sand, with an open, well drained sub-soil of yellow 
or red clay, containing, naturally, a large amount of 
potash and iron, under which you would find water by 
digging down twenty to thirty feet. In this soil I should 
expect, with proper, healthy, thrifty trees, and careful 
culture, good crops of fruit, with good size, good flavor 
and high color, and these cover all the good points in 
peach-culture, 

PLANTING THE TREES. 
When you plant an orchard always choose the very 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 45 

best location on your property that has not been in 
peaches before, and. keeping in view the advice I have 
given, you will probably not err. Plant trees from 
eighteen to twenty feet apart, according as your land 
and culture will bring large or small trees. The former 
will give you one hundred and nine trees to the acre, the 
latter, one hundred and thirty-four trees, and each will 
be right, on its proper soil. The trees may be planted 
in the autumn or in the spring. The majority of growers 
prefer the autumn ; then they have more time, they get 
the trees in good condition and fresh dug, the latter not 
having been "heeled in" all winter ; as spring trees 
often have been when they come from the nursery. 
Again, the tree has settled and is ready to go off at 
once in the spring, after having been planted in the fall. 
Outside of these reasons it really doesn't make much 
difference whether the trees are planted in the spring or 
in the autumn. The ground, I think, should be ploughed 
deep, and thoroughly prepared, as for a premium wheat 
or corn crop, before the trees are planted, although the 
general custom is to turn a few furrows, plant the trees, 
and defer further cultivation until the spring. Thorough 
preparation destroys the bedding for mice, and, hence, 
will check their depredations, and this is important. 
The rows may be run by the plough, and cross-furrows 
where the trees are to be set. The holes should be wide 
enough to receive the roots without cramping, and deep 



46 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

enough to set the tree a very little, if any, deeper than 
when it grew in the nursery. Set the tree, straighten 
out the roots, and put in one-third of the hole 
full of soil, then shake the tree up and down very 
slightly, tramp moderately, and fill up with soil nearly 
to the top ; tramp well again, and then take the 
soil, and bank around the tree three or four inches up 
the stalk, and you have finished. It will be seen that in 
the operation all sub-soil has been discarded in filling 
up the hole. I should have said that before planting 
the tree the roots should be freed from all broken or 
bruised ends, and the same with the tops or branches. 
If trees should be frozen when received from the 
nursery, the best treatment is to put the whole package, 
box and all, without opening it, in a cellar until thawed 
out, and then plant; or if in the fall, " heel-in " until 
spring. If they come in the spring dry and shriveled, 
bury the entire tree in a deep, wide trench and saturate 
the soil with water after they have been covered, and 
allow them to thus remain six to nine days, until they 
look properly ; or sink the bundle under water and hold 
them there four days, then plant and cut the tops back. 
But I don't like to plant, under any circumstances, a 
tree that has been frozen. Should the trees be found to 
be heated when received, or the moss moulded and fire- 
fanged, as it is termed, it is doubtful whether the trees 
would survive, and those that did live would be dis- 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 47 

appointing and unsatisfactory, for a time, at least. If 
cold weather catches you in planting, stop and 
"heel-in " the trees until spring. 

Whether the trees have been planted in the autumn 
or in the spring, they should be headed back in the 
spring and trimmed up, ready for the start. Cut off the 
top to three, or three and a half feet, or cut it off to two 
feet, as you want your tree to head high or low. I 
prefer about three feet to three feet and a half, as such 
an orchard will be easier to get about iii. Cut off all 
lateral branches, and your work is finished as far as the 
tree itself is concerned. It is the custom on the 
peninsula to work the young orchard in corn for the first 
two or three years. Two years are enough ; the third year 
won't pay and is bad for the trees ; besides, there may be 
a crop of fruit the third year, although this is not desir- 
able for the trees ; but life is short and it helps the pocket, 
and we don't often pull them off prematurely for the 
good of the trees. Others prefer to work young trees in 
low crops, as tomatoes, etc., thinking that the trees do 
better. I don't know that it makes much difference. I 
would suggest raspberries as a crop in small orchards. 

PRUNING. 

As stated above, the tree should be pruned of its top 
and all branches, the first spring, and the top should be 
cut off to within three to three and a half feet of the 



48 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

ground to make it head properly. This is the preferable 
point, altho' others head them to two feet, or even less. 
It makes no difference, except as to convenience of 
working the orchard, and picking the fruit in after years. 
The branches below the head should be kept off the first 
year or two, all suckers removed, and any straggling 
outside branches kept cut off, but, until the tree has 
borne a crop of fruit, I doubt the propriety of cutting 
out the middles, as in here the first fruit crop most 
usually grows, and by severe pruning at this time the 
tree is not benefited, and much loss in fruit may occur. 
It is well to let the sun into peach trees ; therefore cut 
out all crossing and interfering branches, all dead wood, 
and all limbs that have been cracked or broken. When 
this has been done, as a rule, the tree has sufficient 
pruning. Ths saw and the pruning knife are used, and 
as a rule the wounds heal without aid or interference. 
Some trim very " hard " for fruit, but I doubt the 
propriety of this. Cutting back the new wood is not 
much practised on the peninsula. It would do good, 
doubtlessly, if the tree was languishing, and sickly, and 
will be referred to again. So intelligent an observer as 
William M. Knight, Esq., of Cecil county, Md., told me 
that he once saw a thrifty middle-aged orchard treated 
by cutting back all the new wood one-half and given 
good culture, etc. ; in a year when all the neighboring 
orchards had good crops, the crop on that orchard was 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 49 

of the poorest, knottiest little peaches it had ever 
yielded before, or has ever yielded since. The treat- 
ment did harm to that crop and no good to those that 
came afterwards. The peach is an enigma, and its 
treatment has not yet been reduced to an exact science, 
by any means. Probably the majority of growers do 
their trimming after the picking season is over ; then 
they take out all dead wood, broken limbs and interfer- 
ing cross-limbs, and cut off all suckers, and this is the 
sum of their pruning. Others, again, trim in the winter 
and spring, for the benefit of the tree, and some later in 
summer, to force fruiting ; others trim whenever their 
knives are sharp, and they see an indication of suckers ; 
this last method is good anyhow. I prefer to snug up 
the orchard after the picking season ; any radical 
trimming, if necessary, I do in the latter part of the 
winter, and in early spring, and if I want to cut back 
new wood, to do it later in the spring. As to fancy 
pruning and training, they are not practised in practical 
peach-culture on the peninsula, but at the same time it 
is not right to leave the tree altogether without 
pruning, for the budded peach, in particular, requires 
care and cultivation, and in this care and cultivation, 
judicious pruning has its share. Hand-thinning of the 
fruit is not practised on the peninsula — nature accom- 
plishes all that in the June drop. 



Chapter IV. 



CULTIVATION OF THE ORCHARD. 

Before entering into the matter of cultivating the 
orchard I will say here, that should one wish to 
plant Peach trees on land inclined to be heavy and 
clayey, and with a sub-soil not porous, or in a soil from 
which the water does not vanish after a rain, in a reason- 
able time, the first step would be to underdrain that soil, 
thoroughly, for any crop, but more particularly for the 
peach. Run the drains, surface and underdrains, both, 
so as to cut off all the springs, bringing the land into 
condition at once to raise a good crop of corn ; then on 
such land you may plant Peach trees, and if your trees 
should go too much to wood and drop their fruit, or be 
lacking in color, or suffer with leaf-curl, you must still 
further dry out the ground or fail in your orchard. Now, 
when shall we begin to cultivate the orchard, and how ? 
My own observation and experience lead me to practise 
and advocate early ploughing in the spring, just as soon 
as it is possible to start the plough and make good work. 
By so doing we give the roots a slight pruning, thus 
checking a too rapid tendency to development of the 
buds, and they, being held back, are not so liable to be 
injured by the early frosts. On the other hand, experi- 
enced growers tell us to wait until after corn has 



52 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

been planted before ploughing the peach-orchard, for 
the ground being covered with dead grass, etc., will 
attract frost less, and thus save the crop from its 
ravages. On the whole, probably, very few now 
advocate this "view, and nearly all growers advise early 
ploughing. Some advocate re- ploughing in the fall, 
especially old orchards. This may do when there is a 
rank growth of weeds, grasses, etc., to check the ravages 
of rabbits, mice, etc., and throws the soil open to oxyda- 
tion ; but, as a rule, I don't think autumn ploughing 
necessary or advantageous. 

How shall we plough, and how often ? Plough not 
over four inches in the middle, and shallower still around 
the trees, with a small plough. A majorit}' plough once, 
and work up to the trees with harrow and cultivator* 
It does not make a great difference, but it is probably 
better to plough twice at slight intervals, first throwing 
furrows from the trees, and in the second ploughing, 
throwing them back to the trees. After ploughing, 
harrow thoroughly, and keep the cultivator going as 
often as shall be necessary to keep the ground clear of 
all weeds and grasses, and only stop when the fruit 
bends down the limbs so as to impede the horses. 
This time will be about from the tenth to the twentieth 
of June. After this, no more tillage until the next 
season. If any noxious weeds grow later, they may be 
cut off and allowed to decay on the ground, as they 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 53 

impede the pickers, and render them very uncomfortable 
by wetting their clothing on rainy days and dewy 
mornings. 

Too much stress cannot be laid on the cultivation 
of the orchard. An orchard uncultivated for a season 
can never be properly reclaimed. By cultivation we 
destroy insect-life and open up the soil for the introduc- 
tion of food to the tree ; we allow oxydation of the iron 
and other elements of the soil to go on ; we scatter and 
disintegrate the fertilizers applied to the land, keep 
down the growth of weeds and grasses, and instead 
of allowing them to sap the ground for their own 
nourishment, we turn them into additional food for the 
tree. I know of one very successful grower who advo- 
cates ploughing eight inches deep, but as a rule I 
recommend shallower ploughing. 

FERTILIZATION OF THE ORCHARD. 

Until very recently, the fertilization of the peach- 
orchard was taken little account of, even by the most 
intelligent and progressive growers. The Peninsula 
was thought to be the home of the peach, that home 
being stored with inexhaustible supplies, laid away in its 
soil, of potash and phosphoric acid, of iron and of 
magnesia, and all other favorite dishes upon which the 
dainty peach feeds. The latter grew and thrived, and 
brought riches and happiness to the fortunate growers, 



54 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

until, after a time, the trees in his locality failed, and he 
said to himself, "the soil is exhausted and I do not 
"know the cause, but the trees won't grow, and I will 
"hie me down the State and take up new land and grow 
"the fruit as successfully as I did up the State." So he 
did, and so have his sons been doing, but the day of 
reckoning is at hand, and necessity, the great mother of 
invention, will find out the cause of this inability of the 
land to grow the peach ; will find out the cause and the 
reason of this exhaustion of the soil. Will find out the 
cause ? Why. is the cause a hidden one ? I trow not. 
Will a given field produce wheat year after year without 
its being furnished plant-food ? Will a given field pro- 
duce corn, year after year, without proper sustenance 
being afforded for the corn ? Will the bee make honey 
without the flower ? No ! Nor is it any more reasonable 
to ask that the land will produce peaches without its 
being supplied with food for the peaches to feed upon. 
Heretofore, we have rested satisfied when we have 
peached the land over, and settled down, thoroughly 
satisfied of its exhaustion, aud that there was no remedy 
for it. It may be assumed that peaches have gone out, 
in districts, and though there are plenty of fields in 
those districts which have never been planted in 
peaches, yet if we plant peaches in them they won't 
thrive, showing that it is the locality and not the soil. 
It may be replied here, that there are other influences 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 55 

at work in such districts beyond the absolute exhaustion 
from the soil of Peach-tree food, and the answer at the 
proper time will be that by additions of improper food 
to the soil, the peach, as it were, may be rendered 
dyspeptic, and parasitic growths may be engendered and 
overwhelm it whilst dwelling in the very halls of wealth 
and luxury. 

The first factor in fertilizing the orchard is the dead 
foliage and debris of the trees, with the dead grasses 
and weeds dropping and decomposing, and again being 
resolved into the elements, thus furnishing over again 
plant-food. In a healthy orchard this is an important 
aid to growth, but in an orchard with diseased wood and 
foliage, they may breed disease and death, by the pro- 
pagation of fungi. Organic life only being developed 
on the outside of the earth's crust, where it can receive 
the light and heat of the sun, therefore, these are ele- 
ments in fertilization, as is also the rain-water which 
falls from heaven, together with ammonia, and then, 
again, the impurities of the atmosphere, injurious to 
animal life are food for the trees, such as carbonic acid, 
ammonia, etc. 

Before going further it will be well to see what is the 
composition of the Peach wood— healthy and diseased — 
and see if we can find what elements may be lacking, or 
in excess, in the diseased wood. For these analyses I 



56 



THE CULTIVATION OF THE 



quote from the report of the Connecticut State Board of 
Agriculture for 1884. The analyses are as follows : 

Ash of Healthy Tree. Ash of Diseased Tree. 

Silica and matters insoluble 

in acid 5.38 947 

Oxide of Iron i .09 2.09 

Lime 54-20 54.05 

Magnesia . . 9.49 7-49 

Potash 16.31 13.95 

Soda 1. 18 1. 19 

4.68 

6.53 

43 



Phosphoric acid 4-34 • 

Sulphuric acid 6.90. 

Chlorine 46 . 



Total, 



99.35 Total, 



99.88 



The report goes on to state that, in comparing the 
above analyses, we note that the ash of diseased twigs 

contains 

4.09 per cent, more Silica, etc., 

1. 00 " " " Oxide of Iron, 

,34 " " " Phosphoric acid, 

.15 " " less Lime, 

2.00 " " " Magnesia, 

2.36 " " " Potash, 

.37 " " *' Sulphuric acid, 

than the ash of healthy twigs. From the same source 
I take a copy of Dr. Goessmann's analysis of the ash of 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 57 

the wood of a Peach-tree affected with Yellows. It con- 
tains 

0.93 per cent, more Oxide of Iron, 

9.71 " " " Lime, 

2.70 " " " Magnesia, 

3.00 " " less Phosphoric acid, 

10.34 " ** " Potash, 

than the ash of healthy trees. Dr. Goessmann infers 
from his experiments that the wood and fruits of 
diseased trees contain less potash and more lime than 
the healthy wood and fruit. 

But, again, here is another analysis where lO.OOO 
lbs. of diseased twigs would contain 

5.2 lbs., more Silica, 



1.3 " 


" 


Oxide of Iron, 


4-5 " 


less 


Lime, 


5-7 " 




Magnesia, 


8.1 " 




Potash, 


0.3 " 




Soda, 


0.6 " 




Phosphoric acid. 


2.4 " 




Sulphuric acid, 


.2 '• 




Chlorine, 



than the healthy twigs. The diseased twigs here mani- 
fest as compared with healthy ones, a poverty of all the 
ash ingredients, except the two first. The most 
important deficiencies are lime and potash, magnesia 



58 THE CULTIVAVION OF THE 

and sulphuric acid. The same report says that Drs. 
Goessmann and Penhallow indicate that chlorine, though 
in small quantity, is important in the foliage, as a means 
of assisting in the transfer of the nutritive matters from 
the leaves to the buds, and, therefore, must not be 
deficient in the soil, although not much is needed. Dr. 
Goessmann is good authority, and has given much atten- 
tion to the peach question, and if the diseased tree 
really does contain more lime than the healthy tree, then 
an important point, I think, has been solved, in fertiliz- 
ing the peach orchard. 

By comparison of the analyses, the general manures 
made on the farm, with their potash, soda, iron, magnesia, 
lime, chlorine, phosphoric acid, ammonia, etc., ought to 
be almost perfect fertilizers for the Peach tree, and are 
so considered by some of our most intelligent and suc- 
cessful growers. Now I confess that, except it be 
thoroughly composted, and every part of its organic 
matter be thoroughly decomposed, which is somewhat 
difficult to accomplish in a reasonable time, I am becom- 
iug somewhat suspicious of barn-yard manure as an 
article of diet for the peach. It is beginning to be 
noticed by more than one observer among our practical 
growers, that in soils made rich by the application of 
barn-yard manure and lime, such as the upper New 
Castle county soils have been, particularly about 
Delaware City, where, formerly, were such flourishing 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 59 

orchards, "^the Yellows has almost invariably appeared 
and destroyed, with ruthless hand, everything before it ; 
and I have personally, particularly observed, that yet, 
in this locality, peaches can be grown, if at all, only on 
lands which have not received the heavy dressings 
of lime and grain-fed manures, which have been so 
generously applied to most of the fine farms in that 
locality. I incline to think that we are reaching the 
bottom of some of the peach troubles, and that this very 
excellent fertilizer, barn-yard manure, causes directly, 
or indirectly, the development of the germs or fungi 
engaged in sapping the life of the Peach tree. If I am 
right in my conjecture of this apparent effect from an 
apparent cause, we will condemn, and ought to condemn, 
the application of barn-yard manure in its usual form, to 
the orchard, and condemn it on these empirical grounds 
alone ; and I yet hope that this empiricism will soon be 
supplanted by solid scientific fact. Of these matters we 
shall speak again, when we come to consider the diseases 
of the peach. Now, reasoning from a chemical stand- 
point, we would say, apply 

LIME, 

and thus quicken the forces of decay, and destroy the 
spores of the fungi which may come from the manure. 
Practice has not shown that to be effectual, if trouble 
comes from applying raw barn-yard manure, but on the 
other hand, where they have been applied one with the 



60 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

Other, the fact remains that there the peach has ceased 
to thrive, and almost ceased to live at all. If I need 
lime on an orchard, it would be on one not under eight 
years of age. Where the soil was rather stiff, or moist 
and sour, and where there was a tendency to strong 
growth of grass and weeds, I would use not over forty 
bushels of slacked lime, broad-cast, per acre. Here it 
would decompose the vegetable elements, correcting 
acidity, and probably act on the iron salts, and more 
readily cause them to change to peroxides, thus fitting 
them for plant-food. I can give you plenty of reasons 
why lime would be a benefit (caustic or quick-lime, as 
generally used,) to Peach trees, because as stated above, 
it decomposes vegetable elements, corrects acidity, 
changes iron salts, and is most destructive to mosses, to 
lichens, and to fungi ; and on these grounds John Rutter 
bases his very sensible reasons for using quick-lime on 
the peach, and being a believer in the germ theory as 
the destroying agent of the tree, he advocates the use 
of caustic lime and potash to destroy these germs and 
save the trees ; and he believes he has accomplished it, 
but experience has not yet confirmed it. I say again, I 
can give scientific reasons for the use of quick-lime as a 
fertilizer, and why it should be good for the peach, but 
again I say, that where ground has been fertilized by 
lime and barn-yard manures, the Yellows has asserted 
its sway and annihilated the peach. This is not extra- 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 6l 

ordinary. The chemist can do many things by rule, and 
chemical laws are infallible, but he cannot use the 
human stomach for a retort, any more than he can the 
cell of a Peach tree, because in his own retort he can 
apply chemical laws, and in the case of the human 
stomach or of the tree-cell, he can only apply his laws, 
subject to the retarding or advancing effects of vital 
action — OF LIFE. 

The peach is always produced on the wood of the 
previous year, and the development of this wood and the 
general appearance of the trees are the best guides to 
follow in fertilizing. Should the wood of the previous 
year, if the season has been an ordinary one, not look 
strong and healthy and not have made a general average 
growth of, say, seven inches in length and the buds not 
full and vigorous looking, these conditions would call for 
fertilizing, and in that fertilizer should be incorporated 
more or less ammonia. If the trees were vigorous and 
doing well, then I would use fertilizers containing potash 
and phosphoric acid, with the iron and chlorine, etc., 
incidentally contained. Recollect that the peach is a 
thorough-bred among fruit trees, needing close watching 
and vigorous culture ; its food should be accurately 
supplied, and it should neither be stinted nor, what is 
equally important, must it be overfed. If the tree is 
declining it needs full nourishment, and here we must 
give it the proper elements. If it has borne a large crop 



62 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

of fruit the previous year, we must give it extra suste- 
nance, but in average years it needs only a well regu- 
lated supply, and the important point to determine is 
just how much to give it. It will be observed that the 
average supply of food recommended is large, and such 
application every year without regard to the before- 
mentioned conditions is, in my opinion, wrong. We 
want to strike moderate and regular blows, and only use 
the sledge now and again to accomplish a certain 
purpose. 

POTASH. 

Undoubtedly, one of the most important elements 
in peach-food is Potash, and we use it in the forms of 
commercial sulphate or muriate, and in wood-ashes. 
Wood-ashes contain probably all elements of plant-food 
except nitrogen, and the elements in one hundred 
pounds of ashes would cost over one dollar if bought at 
market prices. A bushel of peach-tree ashes is said to 
represent two and one-half tons of dry peach wood, and 
the value of the ashes of other trees varies as to the 
woods. Fifty to seventy-five bushels of ashes would be 
a strong dressing per acre, but it may be applied, a 
shovelful or two around the trees, and do immense good. 
Kainit or German Potash-salt is a valuable fertilizer, as 
may be seen by the following analysis: 

Sulphate of Potash 24.80 per cent. 

Sulphate of Magnesia i4-30 " " 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 63 

Chloride of Sodium 32.00 " *' 

Chloride of Magnesia 12.62 " *' 

Moisture 14.36 " " 

Insoluble matter 1.92 " " 

Total, 100.00 

The common salt here contained I consider very 
valuable ; it is destructive to germ-growth and its 
chlorine is advantageous. Prof. Maynard of Mass., 
says that potash acts by setting the starch in motion, by 
dissolving this and assisting leaf-vigor, and in the 
leaves assists the change of starch into sugar. He 
thinks the chlorine helps in this process and for this 
reason he prefers the muriate of potash, but the above 
analysis of kainit shows considerable chlorine, besides 
other valuable plant-foods, and I don't hesitate to 
recommend it, at least in alternate years, with the 
muriate. 

After ploughing in the spring, apply kainit broad- 
cast, from 200 to 500 lbs per acre, and harrow it in. Use 
more or less, after applying the rules given for fertilizing. 
It may be applied in the autumn in the same quantity 
and in the same way and allowed to remain on the 
ground and be ploughed in in the spring. It is claimed 
to sometimes act better in this way. It has the faculty 
of effecting a prompt action of the ammonia of the 
decomposing organic matters it comes into contact with. 



64 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

It is recommended in using kainit on grain crops to sow 
the autumn before, and incorporate it with lime in some 
cases, toehecktoo free chlorine evolvement, which might 
injure the grain-plant. No such care, I believe, need be 
taken in applying it to fruit trees. I believe I have 
previously stated that I am not much in favor of fertiliz- 
ing young trees on good soil until after they have borne 
the first crop, which should be the third or fourth 
season, unless I see a special necessity, and in applying 
potash fertilizers, especially in their crude state, don't 
apply them in contact with the young trees or they will 
seriously injure, if not kill them. 

Potash is known to the chemist as Potassium Oxide, 
and this is its valuable fertilizing ingredient. It must be 
soluble in water as plant-food and we get it as sulphate 
and muriate for agricultural purposes. We have spoken 
of the sulphate in kainit. The sulphate-salt is expen- 
sive and we use, generally, when we want a potash 
fertilizer, the muriate known to the chemist as Potassium 
Chloride. The muriate of Potash is valuable to the peach 
not only for its potash, but for the chlorine ; and, as I 
said before, this chlorine is useful in the leaf in the pro- 
cess of changing starch to sugar, which process is said 
to go on at night, and Dr. Goessmann says the muriate 
has the faculty beyond the sulphate of liquefying the 
starch in the cells and setting it in motion, thus pro- 
moting healthy nutrition. Be this as it may, it gives 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 65 

grand results in peach culture. Muriate of Potash may 
be applied to the peach tree after ploughing, by scat- 
tering from two to five lbs. around the tree, using the 
larger quantity on large trees only ; keeping it at least 
one foot from the base of the tree, and scattering as far 
as the branches extend. It maybe employed in connec- 
tion with acid phosphate (commonly so called) in the 
same proportions and in the same way, and it may be 
used with numerous other matters, examples of which 
we will presently give in formulae. Phosphoric acid is 
very important food for the tree and we apply it gener- 
ally in the form of super-phosphate alone, or joined with 
potash, ammonia, magnesia, etc. Plain super-phosphate 
may be drilled in, after ploughing and harrowing in the 
spring, from 200 to 500 lbs. per acre. Ammonia had 
better be applied in a commercial fertilizer containing 
.02 to .03 per cent, ammonia with Potash and phosphoric 
acid, and put on at the rate of 200 to 400 lbs. per acre. 
There is, generally, sufficient magnesia in the soil, but, if 
needed, it can be applied as given in some of the formulic 
given in another place. Iron may be needed in the 
peach, and if I had an orchard that was stubbornly 
unthrifty I should try iron, among other things. My 
friend, Dr. C. Elton Buck, the accomplished chemist of 
the Walton and Whann Company, tells me that there 
is, in his opinion, iron sufficient in the Peninsula soil for 
peaches, and it is constantly being thrown up to the air 
5 



(^ THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

for use by cultivation, and changed to the peroxide, the 
form in which it is available for plant-food. The color 
of all soils is, probably, produced by iron, and, of course, 
nearly all soils contain it, and tillage renders it available. 
Still, if my orchard did not thrive I would use some iron 
about the trees in a metallic state. Get the scrapings of 
a blacksmith-shop, especially where horses are shod, 
and thus get the hoof-parings, etc., and iron-scales. 
Also iron-scales from rolling-mills, etc. A salt of iron 
in a fertilizer with phosphoric acid, etc., would be expen- 
sive and of doubtful propriety, as it might cause the 
reversion of the phosphoric acid to its insoluble state as 
phosphate of iron and alumina, which exists in crude 
phosphate. The scales of rolling-mills, blacksmiths' 
forges, etc., are generally the magnetic oxide of iron, 
and they get a little oxygen from the air and from 
moisture. Subject them to damp earth, etc., by putting 
them around the tree, and they change to the hydrated 
peroxide of iron, the form of iron available as plant-food. 
The chemist, I believe, would tell you that they change 
from FE3O4 to FE2O3-I-H2O. 

Pruning may act directly as a fertilizer. When the 
trees languish, and especially if old, cut out the middles 
well, and cut back the new wood one-half, or top them 
altogether, and let a new top come out with strong help 
from fertilizers. In some places old orchards are doing 
well and new orchards prematuring. It is my advice to 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 6/ 

keep an old orchard as long as it can possibly be made to 
yield fair returns. A failing orchard may be seeded to 
clover in the spring and ploughed under, the next June a' 
year, thus getting much nitrogen, etc., from the crop of 
clover. There is a prevailing opinion that clover in a 
peach orchard is death to the trees. Lack of cultivation 
for the time is probably the trouble. I recommend the 
appended formulae to be applied according to the rules 
given for fertilizing the Peach tree. For an orchard 
much run down with new wood under an average of 
nine to twelve inches, with fruit lacking color and flavor, 
the following is a good formula, and is recommended by 
Prof Maynard in part : 

Formula No. i. 

Acid phosphate 400 lbs. 

Muriate potash 1 50 " 

Crude sulphate magnesia 100 " 

Azotin , 125 " 

applied to each acre. This is a very strong dressing and 
I would apply it only in case of Yellows, or trees rapidly 
declining from any cause. One-half or one-third the 
quantity may be applied, as occasion requires. Potash 
alone is said to cause late growth. Phosphoric acid causes 
early growth, and magnesia helps to diffuse and retain 
the potash in the soil, and helps the flavor of the peach, 
whilst ammonia makes the wood and improves the color. 



68 the cultivation of the 

Formula No. 2. 

Acid phosphate 1600 lbs. 

Muriate potash 400 " 

Apply this by drilling 200 to 400 lbs. per acre, in the 
spring, after first ploughing and harrowing. Pure ground 
bone, 200 to 600 lbs. to the acre, may be used alone or 
in combination. It will cause the tissues of the tree to 
mature. 

Here is a formula that has been recommended for 
worn out trees. I have never tried it. Before giving 
this I will state that I have made some experiments, 
looking to furnishing a supply of prussic acid to the 
peach, but as yet have no success to report. 

Formula No. 3. 

Kieserite 80 lbs. 

Muriate Potash 500 " 

Bone-Black . 1420 " 

Total, 2000 

Apply from three to nine lbs. to each tree, beginning 
within six inches of the trunk and extending out as far 
as the branches extend. Apply after ploughing, and 
then harrow in. 

It is not necessary to give any great number of 
formulae. Select any good fertilizer made by a reliable 
firm and use according to the rules laid down in this 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 69 

book. If you want only kainit, use it alone or join it 
with acid phosphate, one part to two of the latter, and 
apply from 200 to 600 lbs. to the acre. If you want 
potash, use any good potash and acid fertilizer in quan- 
tities to be regulated by the rules given, and if you 
think you need ammonia in addition to the phosphoric 
acid and potash, then use a good super-phosphate with, 
say .03 per cent of ammonia, and apply as occasion 
requires; thus you will give all the food the peach-tree 
needs for honest crops from well-fed trees. 

The peach-tree bark often becomes affected with 
lice {Aphis Persicd) and other pests, and it is important 
to destroy them ; for this purpose the following wash 
may be recommended, to be applied with a swab, work- 
ing it well into the crevices of the bark, and well down 
to the roots. It may be used as often as necessary and 
is, in a measure, a fertilizer from the soap, etc. .contained. 
TREE WASH. 

For 100 trees take four fluid ounces crude carbolic 
acid, one quart soft soap, and mix thoroughly with one 
half-gallon boiling water. Let it stand twenty-four 
hours, then add two gallons rain-water, stirring all the 
time you are swabbing it on the trees. Always apply 
washes about June first, as they kill eggs and drive off 
moths, etc. Other washes may be made by adding a 
quart or two of crude carbolic acid to a half barrel of 
whitewash, or by adding sulphur to whitewash, a handful 



70 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

to the gallon. Whilst on the subject of washes let me 
recommend, in trimming diseased trees, or even healthy- 
trees, the use of germicides on your saw or knife, before 
passing from one tree to another, as I believe disease 
germs may be carried, and thus healthy trees become 
inoculated. This should especially be done when trees 
have Peach-yellows or Pear-blight. 

GERMICIDES FOR THE SAW OR KNIFE. 

Linseed Oil i quart. 

Crude carbolic acid 4 fluid ounces. 

Mix them and grease the saw or knife. 

Another may be made by dissolving seven and one- 
half grains corrosive sublimate in one gallon hot water ; 
dip the saw or knife in this before using on a second tree, 
or probably what would be better in many cases of 
Peach- Yellows and Pear-blight on a second branch. 
The objection to this last is that it is very poisonous and 
might be mistaken for water, being colorless ; therefore, 
it should be handled, if used at all, with the greatest 
care. If any of it should be swallowed, white of egg, 
internally, will render it harmless. The oil and carbolic 
acid is also poisonous, but the odor and other physical 
properties make it much safer. Thomas Taylor, 
microscopist at the Agricultural Department^ Washing- 
ton, D. C, suggests, in order to destroy the spores 
which may be a cause of Yellows and other diseases, the 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. /I 

application of hot lye to the bark and roots of diseased 
trees. On the same principle, he advocates the applica- 
tion of alkaline washes and washes of sulphates and 
their compounds. Here copperas, one pound to the 
gallon of water, might do good or even a half-pound to 
the gallon. He also thinks that sulphide of calcium may 
be appled with good effect, and that anything which 
protects the trunk and the limbs will do good. White- 
wash made from gas lime will contain sufficient sulphide 
of calcium for the purpose, and is therefore a valuable 
tree wash. 



Chapter V. 

DISEASES AND ENEMIES OF THE PEACH. 
YELLOWS. 

I believe that Yellows is a bacterial disease, as is 
now understood. I believe these bacteria exist in the 
healthy tree and even in healthy men, but when their 
number becomes greatly increased, which may take 
place rapidly under favorable circumstances to an 
infinitesimal number, they become a disease. They, 
we are taught to believe, -develope into fungi, (mushroom 
growths,) probably through Mycelia (the spawn of fungi.) 
Bacteria are monads, (monads are ultimate atoms, a 
primary division of matter,) having a low, vegetable 
life, and are liable to appear in any substance containing 
life. They are of different forms, and move actively, and 
are, of course, microscopic. They probably act as 
ferments, as in the vegetable-cells in the transformation 
of starch into sugar. They come from the air, where, 
probably, their origin is suspended, and with a certain 
development, which the microscope has not yet dis- 
covered, before they can act as a ferment in health and 
disease, either in animal or vegetable life. They do not 



74 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

come from spontaneous generation, in my opinion. I am 
no believer in spontaneous generation. In this day of 
doubt and trial I say this most emphatically. I see God 
in nature everywhere, from the inception of this micro- 
scopic wltimate atom, to the grand creation of Man — 
mysterious, wonderful, and complex in being. These 
bacteria act as organic ferments, (like the torulae, the 
fungi of yeast,) and are, probably the means, or chief 
means, of changing starch into sugar in the tree, etc., 
provided they exist in normal and healthy numbers. 
Now, from any cause let these bacteria increase a million 
fold or more, as they may rapidly do, then they become 
a source of disease, and here, to my mind, we have the 
cause of Yellows in the peach. I might write pages 
about these low orders of life, vegetable and animal, yet 
only weary the reader, and in the end say no more to 
the point than I have said. These bacteria which I say 
do exist in healthy trees, becoming increased indefinitely, 
cause disease. The nutrition of the tree is seriously 
interfered with, or ceases altogether, because the cell- 
action is checked or stopped ; the change of starch into 
sugar is checked or stopped. All these being checked 
means a diseased tree ; all these being stopped means a 
dead tree — the cessation of cell-action. These changes 
may occur suddenly, and we have acute or rapid 
Yellows, the tree soon dying, Should these changes 
occur less suddenly, we have chronic or slow Yellows, 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 75 

and then the tree declines and gradually dies, consuming 
in the act of dying one or more years, very similar to a 
sorry victim of consumption among men. I believe 
Yellows to be a disease of the budded tree, a disease of 
progress and civilization, as it were, among trees, a 
disease that exists only among trees crowded together 
with improper treatment and cultivation, just as diseases 
from the same cause (zymotic or fermentive diseases) 
are developed in man, when he is thrown together in 
gregarious masses, without proper hygienic and dietetic 
supervision. In man we have fevers, cholera, measles 
and other horrors, and in the peach, Yellows and other 
troubles, and in the pear, blight, and so on through 
nature. I have seen Yellows in the natural tree. The 
natural tree may get the Yellows because it is a peach, 
but is not so likely to suffer from it — just as the primitive 
man did not probably have cholera or zymotic fevers or 
measles. Neither inherited the tendencies from their 
progenitors, nor were the germs active, if present, nor 
were they surrounded by the luxuries of an advanced 
civilization to the degree of the modern man, or the 
budded peach, and for these reasons, as we see from 
observation in life, generally, where there is high 
development and high culture of the animal or veget- 
able, it is more obnoxious to disease. I incline to the 
opinion from practical, and not as yet from scientific, 
data, that Peach- Yellows is contagious, and can be 



'^^ THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

carried from tree to tree through diseased seed, through 
diseased buds, through proximity of soil, and even by 
pruning instruments going from diseased to healthy 
trees. So much am I impressed by this suspicion, that 
I would not haul young trees in a wagon, which had 
shortly before, hauled the cuttings from pruning a 
diseased orchard, unless the wagon had been fumigated. 
I believe this disease-germ may be both in the soil and 
in the tree, after the soil and tree have been placed by 
circumstances in a condition to develop it, and for this 
reason I would not plant a new orchard, at once, on 
the site from which a diseased orchard had been removed. 
I believe ploughing and fertilizing, and one year of 
upturned exposure without cropping, will be apt to 
destroy the disease- germ, and peaches might be planted 
again, but I should never recommend this plan if other 
land were available. Now as to the conditions favorable 
to the production of this germ of Yellows, I believe it 
is most likely to be developed where peaches have been 
planted in one locality in large numbers for a series of 
years, where orchards have been cropped after their 
second year, where culture and fertilization have been 
neglected or omitted, and where the land had previously 
been made rich (and was so when the trees were 
planted) by lime and barn-yard or stable manure, where 
the trees have been raised from the seed of budded 
trees, and thus have been propagated back and not 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. "jy 

advanced, where inattention has been the rule in prun- 
ing, and to digging out and burning diseased trees at 
the first start of the disease. As to lime and manure, 
they contain the elements of plant-food for the Peach- 
tree, and really are sure fertilizers for the trees, but 
somehow in land enriched by them the Yellows appears 
to thrive, and we know this only empirically as \'et, and 
not scientifically. Experience is showing that potash is 
a remedy for Yellows, and we know that lime causes an 
exhaustion of potash in the soil, because it decomposes 
rocks, stones, sand, etc., containing it, and improperly 
composted manure may breed the disease-germs during 
its decomposition. These are facts, probably, and seem 
to be a finger-board on the road to the solution of the 
question. As to developing the Yellows, over-fed trees 
may have the bacteria increased in them beyond the 
health-ratio, just as well as under-fed trees, and here is a 
reason we should study so carefully the fertilization of 
each separate tree. I believe that if the rules I have 
laid down in this regard be followed, much good may be 
accomplished by avoiding the production of the disease. 

These disease-germs in the sap of the tree, or even 
in the ground, are really benefited by irregular seasons 
as to temperature, whilst the vegetable organism of the 
tree is injured, and hence, what, as peach growers, we 
fear most, is not so much the cold season within reason- 
able bounds, as the irregular season of heat and cold, 



78 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

and often during one of these seasons we know that 
Yellows flourishes ; I think this is a practical proof of its 
germ-origin. Thos. Taylor, of the Agricultural Depart- 
ment, Washington, has examined and experimented 
with the bark of healthy and unhealthy Peach trees, and 
found a fungus in the unhealthy, the healthy bark being 
free from fungi. Mr. Taylor had leaves of the healthy 
and unhealthy trees analyzed, and found as follows : 

Healthy Peach Leaves. Unhealthy Peach Leaves. 

Moisture 29.20 36.9 

Organic Matter 63.22 59.4 

Ash 7.58 ... 3.7 



Total 100.00 Total, 100.00 

Here, in the unhealthy tree there is a deficiency of 
ash ; there is less organic matter and more moisture than 
in healthy leaves. Now, Mr. Taylor says, as leaves don't 
absorb earthy matter from the atmosphere, it is evident 
that the cellular structure of the tree has failed to 
perform its functions, for had the ascending sap carried 
up potash, lime, or other earthy matter, the leaves would 
have been stored with them, since they can't evaporate 
them. This deficiency of earthy matters in the leaves 
may account for the absence of ash in the fruit. If the 
leaves elaborate juice for the growth of the fruit, the 
leaves being deprived of proper nourishment, the fruit 
cannot mature. Now trees with yellows, fruit earlier 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 79 

and prematurely, and prematurely decay. The presence 
of more sap in the unhealthy, than in the healthy, tree 
indicates an earlier and greater flow in the former than 
in the latter. The presence of watery sap in the leaves, 
twigs and buds, would induce, naturally, an early growth 
of fruit and premature decay. Thus we argue that the 
disease is rather in the body of the tree and in the roots, 
and that the leaves only suffer from this disease, second- 
arily. Before proceeding further, I want to lay before 
the reader the present status of the germ-theory of dis- 
ease — and this applies, as well, to the vegetable as to the 
animal kingdom. Cohn calls all these disease-germs, 
Schizomycetes, although Bacteria is generally used in 
the same sense, but, etymologically, the latter only 
apply to the rod-shaped kind. Cohn makes four forms 
of Schizomycetes, according to Flint. First, Micro- 
cocci, xoxxnd granules, very minute ; second. Micro-bacteria, 
rod-shaped cells ; third, Desmo-bacteria or Bacilli, also 
rod-shaped longer than Micro-bacteria ; fourth, Spiro- 
bacteria, spiral-shaped cells, or organism. 

To show the power of reproduction of these germs, 
it is said that one of them can give rise to loo.cxx) 
individuals of its kind in seven hours. Think of it ! 
suppose a healthy peach tree has 10,000, then conditions 
favorable to disease surround it and in seven hours there 
are 1,000,000,000 Bacteria. After a while, when this 
matter is properly cared for, we will find out the peculiar 



80 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

form of Bacteria that causes peach-yellows, and I do 
not despair of a remedy following this discovery. The 
world moves — science is progressive — God reigns. 

SYMPTOMS OF YELLOWS. 

Along the branches of a tree, perhaps along one 
branch, perhaps on several, or all of the branches, but 
not often on all, for the tree dies before all become 
affected, we see, growing perpendicularly, and generally 
on the upper side, slender, wiry shoots, some long, some 
short, with mean, starved-looking leaves. Then, in the 
second place, we have the fruit ripening prematurely, 
from fifteen to thirty days before it should be ripe. It is 
spotted with beautiful red, or entirely colored — the fatal 
hectic flush — and is of full size and handsome. 

Then we have the yellow, sickly-looking foliage, and 
the fruit lacks flavor. If the tree lives until the second 
year, the fruit is reduced greatly in size, to one-half or 
one-fourth, is mean-looking and poor, yet still having 
marks of the beautiful red in spots, or coloring half, or 
more, of the peach. The color runs into the peach 
around the stone. In some trees the trouble may come 
in the fruit the first year, and not until the second year 
may the wiry shoots, characteristic of the disease appear. 
The tree may die very rapidly in a few weeks, or even 
days, but usually it lasts two seasons, and in some cases 
trees may linger, if let alone, for from three to five 
years. 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 8l 

The disease appears to be confined to the parts of 
the tree above the ground, no changes having yet been 
observed in the roots— -but I must say that, as yet, they 
never have been thoroughly and scientifically examined 
through a series of cases. The disease exists in patches 
in an orchard, and does not take trees in rotation ; yet, 
when we have one, more always, sooner or later, sur- 
round it. 

Yellows has been known on this peninsula since the 
war of 1812, and is supposed to have been introduced 
from Pennsylvania, by carrying down improved trees, but 
it never amounted to a scourge until large orchards 
began to be cultivated from budded fruit. 

REMEDIES FOR YELLOWS. 

1st.— Plant only natural seed ; cull the seed 
thoroughly, using only the best specimens. 

?.d. — Use only choice buds from choice trees in 
every way healthy, and from trees that have been raised 
from natural seed as far back as possible, and budded 
only from such stock. 

3rd. — Use care in selecting the site of the orchard 
by rules before laid down. 

4th. — Cultivate thoroughly by methods heretofore 
given. 

5th. — Prune judiciously. If a tree is attacked, cut 
out all diseased parts at once, and burn them ; cut back 



82 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

the new wood at least one-half, and fertilize freely ; use 
the carbolic acid tree-washes. If the next season the 
tree has not thoroughly revived, pull it out root and 
branch and burn it ; scatter muriate of potash freely 
in the hole, and fill it up ; don't plant another tree here 
until next season. 

6th. — If the tree is bark-bound and the sap appears 
deficient, slit the trunk and the large branches on two 
sides for their whole extent, cutting through the bark 
down to the wood. 

7th. — Avoid the use of raw manures of all kinds in 
the orchard, and use lime very sparingly, if at all, as a 
fertilizer, for in the absence of potash, the tree appears 
to take from the soil too large a percentage of lime to 
supply its average need. Use tree-washes if insects 
appear in the bark of any or all trees in the orchard. 

8th.— In fertilizing, use, chiefly, Chemical Fertilizers, 
by the rules given, and especially those containing some 
salt of potash ; be careful to worm the trees, if appear- 
ances indicate their presence. I would here say that 
worming is not as much practised as formerly — but this 
is no reason, nor is there any other reason that I know 
of, why vigilance in this respect should be relaxed. 

In the proceedings of the New Jersey State Horti- 
cultural Society, at its tenth annual meeting, held at 
Trenton, Dec. 29th and 30th, 1884, I find a paper read 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 83 

by Prof. S. T. Maynard of the Botanic Department of 
the Massachusetts Agricultural College, which is so 
interesting and which I feel presents facts of such value 
that I am sure it will be well worth the space it will 
occupy, and I give it to my readers almost entire. As 
Prof. Maynard stated, he presented the subject from a 
New England stand-point, and the reader must remem- 
ber that New England differs widely from the Peninsula, 
in both soil and climate. 

"In looking over the history of peach-culture in 
New England, we find that, when first planted in the 
early days of its settlement, the trees were very easily 
grown, and produced large crops of delicious fruit, but 
soon that fell destroyer of the peach — the yellows — 
made its appearance. We are told it was very destruc- 
tive one hundred and twenty years ago, and yet peaches 
continue to be planted, grow and die, new trees are 
planted, bear and die, and still the process goes on. With 
us, the peach is most succesfuUy grown on high, well 
drained, loamy soil. The exposure, whether north, 
south, east or west, seems to make but little difference 
as to the hardiness of the trees, but the fruit is generally 
of better quality on a southern slope, than upon a 
northern one. 

About fifteen years ago a lot of some one hundred 
trees were planted upon a light, stony soil, sloping to the 
south, and protected by a heavy growth of woods on the 



84 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

north, about one hundred rods from the orchard. For 
the first two years they were rather neglected, but the 
third season they were carefully pruned, and carefully ex- 
amined for borers, which were destroyed when found ; soon 
indications of disease began to appear, and, to counteract 
its effect, various substances were applied to the soil, in 
addition to careful and severe pruning and thorough cul- 
tivation. The first application was stable manure, but 
while this seemed to benefit some of the trees, some of 
them failed to come to time. The next thing used was 
the sweepings from a blacksmith's shop, which contain, 
in addition to droppings from animals, many hoof- 
parings and iron-filings ; these were, perhaps, rather more 
beneficial than the first material used. About this time, 
under the direction of Dr. Goessmann, special fertilizers 
of various kinds were applied, and, by repeated experi- 
ments, it was found that bone and potash, with a little 
magnesia, gave the best results. The amount of each 
of these materials recomrriended was, as follows : 

400 lbs. (50 lbs. PO5 ) of acid bone phosphate, 150 
to 200 lbs. of Muriate of Potash, (100 to 150 lbs. potash,) 
and 100 lbs. of crude Sulphate of Magnesia per acre. 
This should be applied in the autumn, just betore the 
ground freezes, or very early in the spring, and well 
worked into the soil for a space of from five to ten feet 
in diameter under the tree. 

The amount of this fertilizer used, should, however, 
vary with different soils, and it will be found sometimes 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 85 

necessary to add nitrogenous matter if the trees fail to 
make a satisfactory amount of wood. The result of the use 
of this formula is, that we now have trees that are fifteen 
years old, that have borne five or six good ciops of fruit, 
and are, at present, apparently in perfect health, 
although many of them have shown unmistakable signs 
of the disease, and recovered from it. The disease known 
as the Yellows with us, takes two forms ; first, a very 
active form, which often attacks trees that have been 
injured by the cold after seasons of late growth, and it 
requires but a few days to destroy the entire tree, except 
the roots, which often remain alive for a long time after 
the top is dead. The other, and most common form, is 
indicated by a yellowish, sickly look, during the entire 
growing season, and the premature ripening of the fruit. 
The fruit is always unusually high colored, sometimes 
the flesh is blood-red, and its brilliant color reminds one 
of the hectic flush on the cheek of the consumptive ; 
there is also often a bitter, unpleasant flavor to the fruit. 
This disease is always accompanied by minute uni-cellular 
plant-growths, similar to those found in blighted pear 
trees, or in fermenting ensilage, in fact, resembling those 
organisms that always accompany fermenting or decom- 
posing animal or plant tissue. (This shows why we 
should not use raw manures. — J. J. Black.) The germs 
producing it are always found in its most active form, are 
very similar to those that accompany epidemic and con- 



86 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

tagious diseases, like cholera, small-pox and diphtheria, 
etc., and do not generally grow and increase in tissue 
that is perfectly healthy. When the tissues become 
weakened from any cause, the proper conditions are 
produced, the germs found everywhere begin at once to 
develope, taking up the food that would otherwise go to 
the nourishment of the tree, and the result is the 
destruction of the latter. 

Among the causes that may bring about this 
weakened condition, are, first, a late, immature or soft 
growth, which, upon exposure to severe cold, is so 
injured that the very unstable elements of which the 
tissue is composed, break up quickly, and fermentation 
begins, or, in other words, a very rapid growth of the 
bacterial cells, or germs, takes place. In some cases 
the tree is killed very soon after warm weather sets in, 
or, if less injured, decay goes on more gradually* 
Another cause of weakness may be found in the exhaus- 
tion of the soil, by the plant-food being all taken up by 
the roots, which are gross-feeders, and fermentation may 
result from the cells being in an inactive condition. 

Exhaustion of the plant may also result from over- 
bearing, when the cells are not only exhausted, but the 
plant-food of the soil is so reduced that the supply is 
insufficient to keep up a healthy action. Perhaps the 
greatest factor in the weakening of the tissue is the 
peach-borer. This insect is so well known that I will 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 8/ 

not stop to describe it, but merely mention some of its 
habits. The eggs are laid upon the trunk, from close to 
the ground to a height, perhaps, of two or three feet, 
and, especially in old trees, in the forks of large 
branches. The eggs hatch and the larvae or worms feed 
upon the inner bark and sap-wood, eating a space of the 
size of a silver dollar. As many as ten or twelve have 
been found in a single tree, and this cause alone is suffi- 
cient to account, in a great measure, for the thoroughly 
exhausted condition of many trees. In order to better 
understand the nature of this disease and its effects upon 
the tree, let us glance at some of the functions of the 
tissue of the plant. In all plants the principal part of 
the plant-food is prepared or transformed, so as to be in 
condition to nourish the new growing cells, in the leaf. 
During the day-time, and under the influence of light, 
the plant-food taken in from the atmosphere and the 
soil is being rapidly transformed into starch in the 
green part of the leaf At night, when the plant is in 
active growth, this starch is changed into sugar, and it 
is in this form that it is taken up to nourish the growing 
tissue. 

Now it is found in diseased trees that there is a 
large quantity of starch undissolved in the tissues, and 
that the latter seems to have lost the power of trans- 
forming it into the proper condition for its nourishment, 
just as the sick man, although he is able to take large 



88 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

quantities of food into his stomach, yet the system can- 
not make use of it and it becomes a still further source of 
disturbance. (This may happen in over-fertilized trees 
as well as in diseased or starved trees. — J. J. BLACK.) 
In looking for a remedy for this diseased condition, we 
would select those elements that are supposed to have an 
especially stimulating effect upon the diseased organs, 
and we find that potash possesses the property of 
increasing the vigor of the leaf-action of plants. 

The muriate of Potash is generally thought to be 
the best and it is possible that the chlorine it contains, 
which is so destructive to animal and plant life, may 
have an antiseptic influence, preserving the contents of 
the cells from fermentation and decay, or it may destroy 
the germs within the cells. The way the remedy effects 
this favorable result, however, is somewhat a matter of 
conjecture, but the above seems a reasonable explanation. 
Iron is known to have a very beneficial influence upon 
the development of the green coloring-matter of the leaf 
of plants, and may generally be applied in small quanti- 
ties with good results. Potash alone has the effect to 
cause rather a late growth, and this effect must be 
counteracted by the use of phosphoric acid found in the 
common super-phosphates, or in a less soluble form in 
ground bone — which has the effect of causing an early 
maturity of plant-tissues. The Magnesia is recom- 
mended to assist in the diffusion and retention of the 
potash in the soil. 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 89 

It is claimed by many that this disease is contagious, 
and some go so far as to say that it often spreads in the 
direction of the prevailing wind — others claim that 
it has been communicated from one tree to another 
by dragging a diseased tree through the orchard, and 
by the pruning-shears or the knife. Now, while I have 
no positive proof that the disease is not contagious, 
I do seriously doubt that any one has positive proof that 
it is ; certainly, I have never seen such proof stated. 
Probably, in most of the cases where the disease is 
thought to have spread, the conditions of soil, atmos- 
pheric changes, etc., being the same, all the trees, sooner 
or later, will die in the same manner. I have seen in 
the same orchard, trees standing in the more moist, rich 
soil die after only a few years growth, while on the 
higher, lighter and poorer soil they lived many years 
longer. 

I have in mind another instance : A lot of trees of 
the same age and variety, and from the same nursery, 
that were planted on soil apparently of the same 
nature ; the land was divided into two lots, one being 
seeded to grass with oats, while the other was cultivated 
with some hoed crop. 

The first lot of trees which were robbed of the 
proper amount of food and moisture, died in a year or 
two, while those in the cultivated land kept up a fine 
healthy growth for several years, and produced some very 



90 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

fine fruit. Now if the disease is contagious, why did 
they not all die in the latter case ; or in the former, 
why should the difference in the soil make a difference 
as to their length of life ? The above examples indicate 
that the condition of the tree determines its suscepti- 
bility to take the disease, and that the condition of the 
soil often exerts a ver}' great influence upon the strength 
of the tree to resist or overcome the attack of fungous 
growths. We believe this to be true of all trees or 
plants that are subject to the attack of mildews, blights, 
etc., that they are never attacked until they have in 
some way become weakened. There are many cases of 
isolated trees in Massachusetts, that have reached the 
age of twenty years or more, under apparent conditions 
of neglect, but upon close examination, it has been 
found that their surroundings and the soil in which they 
were planted was such as to produce just the right kind 
of food, and that, in just the right quantity to produce 
the best growth. Whenever a tree dies in our orchard, 
we plant a new one at once, and have never known the 
second one to die, although some were planted eight or 
ten years ago. 

The special treatment our trees have received in the 
way of pruning, has been to cut all the new wood back, 
about one-half each autumn or winter, and to thin out 
some of the weak wood entirely. To overcome the tend- 
ency of the trees to form long straggling branches, after 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 9I 

a time some of the main branches are cut back to stubs a 
few feet long. From these, strong new shoots are pro- 
duced, keeping the trees in good form. When the trees 
show indications of the Yellows, the whole top is some- 
times cut off in this manner. The effects of this annual 
pruning are two-fold ; to keep the trees in compact form, 
and to reduce the number of fruit-buds, thus lessening 
the danger of injury from over-bearing. A year ago this 
winter, we cut the tops of all the trees of this orchard 
back to stubs, varying from about two feet at the sides 
to perhaps three or four feet in the centre so as to give 
them good form, and the result has been the formation 
of very handsome heads of strong healthy new wood. 
All the ends of the branches were cut off, and after 
becoming well dried, were covered over with two coats 
of linseed-oil paint. The cultivation of an orchard so 
as to keep the trees in the best health and productive- 
ness, we find the most difficult problem, and we are 
uncertain whether the land should be cultivated or not. 
(There is no doubt about the necessity of cultivation on 
the Peninsula. — J. J. Black.) The great advantage of 
cultivation is that it is perhaps the best way of supplying 
the necessary amount of plant-food, and of preserving 
the moisture in the soil, but I am very certain that trees 
in cultivated land are much more liable to be affected 
by the unfavorable changes of our climate, than when 
the roots are in turf. If grown in turf, we have two 



92 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

very serious obstacles to overcome. The first is the loss 
of moisture by its evaporation from the grass and leaves, 
and the second is, the difficulty of supplying plant-food 
enough to support both trees and grass. Both can be 
overcome by the use of the grass as a mulch. If this is 
not sufficient, other coarse material, as brakes, moist 
grass, decaying brush, machine shavings from planing- 
mill, etc., may be very cheaply obtained. I am quite 
satisfied that if plant-food, to the value of the cost of 
labor for cultivating, be added to the soil annually, with 
the method of preventing the loss of moisture by mulch, 
our peach orchards will live longer and produce more 
fruit. Should it be decided most advisable to cultivate 
the orchard, care must be taken not to injure the roots 
by too deep working of the soil, and not to cultivate 
after August first. In case of the use of mulch, it 
should be removed from the immediate vicinity of the 
trees and piled up, about September first, to prevent a 
late growth of the tree, and to cause a ripening and 
hardening of the roots. Then if the trunks of the trees 
are protected from mice by a mound of earth, it may be 
put back again just before the ground freezes, to prevent 
injury to the roots from the cold. If an early starting 
of the tree is desired, the mulch may be removed as soon 
as freezing weather ceases, or if a late starting is desired, 
let it remain. But by whatever system of cultivation 
the orchard is managed, the orchardist must know the 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 93 

exact condition of every tree, at all times, and be able 
to supply any need, or force them to do what is for their 
best growth. In order to do this, a man must have a 
love for his work and be thoroughly in earnest. Such 
men only will succeed in this business. I have known 
peaches to stand a temperature of eighteen degrees 
below zero when in a perfectly ripened growth. 

In reviewing the subject, I draw the following con- 
clusions. The peach tree is by nature a delicate tree, 
and sensitive to the sudden changes of our climate ; that 
many causes are at work by which the trees are still 
further weakened, and only when weakened are liable to 
the attack of the disease, known as, " the Yellow^s ;"that 
this disease may be largely prevented by cultivation and 
fertilization ; that diseased trees may be so treated as to 
recover and produce good fruit ; that there is no royal 
highway to success in the cultivation of this fruit, but 
that eternal vigilance is the price of an abundance of 
Peaches. 

FROST. 

Cold weather under certain conditions, probably, is 
the great cause of disappointment in peach culture. It 
comes unheralded, and as a rule, we are powerless to 
prevent its injuries, or stay its ravages. When the 
thermometer on the Peninsula drops to zero or below 
zero, the peach is in great danger, not only the buds, 
but the new wood, and even the larger branches ; six 



94 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

degrees below zero, by experience has proved disastrous 
to the coming crop, and this has been so universally the 
case, that we look upon that mark on the thermometer as 
registering the death-blow to the yield of the coming 
season. Now, as to this matter, there are many attend- 
ing circumstances to be taken into consideration. If the 
previous season's growth of wood has been a favorable 
one, if the fall has been one in which the growing bud 
flourished, and neither too dry nor too cold, so that the 
wood and buds be neither stunted, nor soft and flabby, 
the season up to December closing thus favorably, this 
wood and these buds will stand low temperature much 
better during December and January, than had the wood 
and buds opposite qualities from these mentioned. Six 
degrees below zero will not injure strong buds and 
strong wood, as much as zero weather will injure weak 
buds and weak wood. What the peach wants is weather 
that is equal in temperature, and the model season is a 
winter neither too warm nor too cool, and a like spring 
not opening too early. Peaches are, probably, most 
frequently injured in the spring, just when the blossom 
is shedding its leaves, leaving the young peach exposed, 
and as this happens at different periods in the life of the 
young peach, depending whether you are south or north 
on the peninsula, it accounts for the crop often being 
killed in the southern part, and saved in the northern 
part, or this may be reversed. I think it is about from 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 95 

three to five days that the young peach is in this tender, 
unprotected state, and this is about the difference in 
ripening between the upper and lower orchards of the 
peninsula, and so the same frost may strike the buds 
below in their unprotected state, whilst those in the 
upper region of the peninsula may escape injury, not 
having progressed to the unprotected state. The peach 
is very warm blooded, and very little coquetting with 
warm weather induces it to leave its winter home. 
Hence, warm spells the latter part of January and in 
February, or even in March, cause the sap to rise, and 
the buds to swell, and a cold snap following, destroys 
vast numbers of buds, and weakens the bearing v/ood. I 
am satisfied that many orchards are thus deprived of 
their season's fruit. Late spring frosts, especially with 
moisture, often destroy the crops, especially when they 
catch the young peach bare. The peach at this time 
even, will stand a good deal of dry cold, but moisture 
with freezing does the damage. An easterly storm with 
cold rain at the blossom-shedding season, is a serious 
evil, and I have known the crops thus much reduced. 
After the leaves come out, for the tree blossoms before 
it has leaves, the young peach is safe except the frost 
be severe, and accompanied by moisture. Of course the 
better condition the trees are in, the better they can 
withstand cold. To sum up, the peach-tree wants a 
winter of medium temperature, especially one free from 



g6 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

the extremes of heat and cold, and followed by a back- 
ward spring, with equal temperatures. Particularly dis- 
astrous to the crop on the peninsula are, warm spells in 
February and March, followed by early spring and 
variable weather. As to protection against frost, I am 
satisfied that by smudges, the temperature in the parts 
affected by the smoke, can be reduced from one to three 
degrees, but I do not look upon them as practical in 
large culture, yet they may do good if applied to a given 
limited number of trees. 

The effect of frost on the bud is easily seen when it 
has destroyed its vitality — cut open the bud longitudi- 
nally with a sharp knife. If it is alive and healthy you 
see the well-defined embryo peach, a little more shaded 
in very light green than its outer surroundings, with the 
very centre still a little darker green. This is a healthy 
bud. Should the frost have destroyed its vitality, this 
little centre shows itself as a dark blue or black speck, 
larger or smaller as the case may be, but the smallest 
indication of a dark centre indicates the certain death of 
the fruit. Through the late autumn and winter, a good 
prognosis of the crops can be made by going through 
the orchard, cutting many buds, and taking the percent- 
age of those injured. If the twigs and small branches 
have been injured by cold, of course they shrivel and the 
sap never reaches them. 

THE CURLED LEAF 
exists now and again in orchards, but I can't say that 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 97 

it has done damage to the trees or to the fruit. Like 
the yellows, it is probably bacterial in its origin, and is 
most apt to come where the trees are on wet, heavy land, 
and in warm, wet seasons. It comes in May, generally, 
or in June. The leaves swell and curl and are thick with 
puffs of a reddish color on the upper side, and of course 
the opposite side follows the puff, and is hollow. They 
drop off in about three weeks and new leaves come and 
take their places, and the tree apparenrly forgets the 
trifling annoyance. Under draining and surface draining 
and proper culture will eradicate, in a great measure, this 
trouble. As we most frequently see curled leaf after a 
warm, wet spell followed by clearing, cooling weather, I 
venture the conjecture that it is caused by a fermenta- 
tion in the leaf during the phases of the starch changing 
to sugar, caused by the- increased presence of bacteria 
which revel and increase prodigiously in just such 
changes of temperature. This fermentation causes the 
curl and death of the leaf. 

THE JUNE DROP. 

After the young peaches have well formed on the 
trees and are ready to start on their voyage to ripening, 
nature comes in, and here in a very marked manner 
asserts her sway in declaring that only the fittest shall 
survive, and hence, all those specimens of fruit that have 
not the perfect form of health, those specimens in which 
the early germ was in any way deteriorated by disease 
7 



98 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

or accident, yield to this inexorable law of existence in 
all that pertains to life on earth, and drop from the trees. 
This dropping is termed among growers, the June Drop 
or June Fall, and occurs on the Peninsula always, or 
almost always, in the month of June, depending some- 
what on the earliness or lateness of the season, but is 
generally over by the twentieth to the twenty-fifth of 
June. Until this June Drop has past, it is impossible to 
accurately estimate the coming crop, but after it is over 
a very correct estimate can usually be made, the curculio 
and the elements being about the only disasters to 
apprehend after this time. 

THE BORER. 

The pernicious borer which has proved very 
destructive to the peach in the United States, according 
to Harris, whose description of the insect I give, is a 
species oi ^geria, named Exitiosa, or the destructive. 
Mr. Say first described it in the Journal of the Academy of 
Natural Sciences of Philadelphia. The eggs from which 
the borers are hatched are deposited in summer, on the 
trunks of the trees near the roots, or higher up, or even 
in the crotches of large branches. The borers penetrate 
the bark and devour the inner bark and the sap-wood. 
We know the seat of operations by the castings and gum 
which issue from the holes. When these borers are 
nearly one year old they make their cocoons either 
under the bark of the trunk or of the root, or in the 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 99 

earth and gum contiguoi;s to the base of the trees ; soon 
they are transformed to Chrysalids and finally come 
forth the full-winged moth, and lay eggs for another 
generation of borers. This last transformation takes 
place, Harris says, from June to October, in Massachu- 
setts ; on the peninsula, as early as the latter part of May, 
and as long as warm weather lasts, he thinks we have 
them ; although there are several broods produced by a 
succession of hatches, there is but one rotation of meta- 
morphosis consummated within one year. Hence, borers 
of all sizes will be found in the trees throughout the 
year ; although it seems necessary that all of them, 
whether more or less advanced, should pass through 
one winter before they appear in the Avinged state. 
The winged insect as we see it in the orchard is like a 
wasp, in looks — at first sight. It is a four-winged, dark- 
blue moth. The male is smaller than the female, has 
all the wings transparent, but bordered and veined with 
steel blue, which is the general color of the body in both 
sexes. The feelers, the edges of the collar and shoulder 
covers, the rings of the abdomen, and the brush on the 
tail are pale yellow, and the shins have two rings of yel- 
low color. It expands about one-inch. The female has the 
fore-wings blue and opaque ; the hind wings transparent 
and bordered and veined like those on the male, and the 
middle of the abdomen is encircled by a broad orange- 
colored belt. It, the female, expands an inch and a half, 



lOO THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

or more. They don't do much damage when deposited 
in the crotches of limbs, but often completely girdle 
the trunk. Harris recommends removing the earth from 
the base of the tree, and crushing and destroying the 
cocoons and borers which may be found in it and under 
the bark. Cover the wounds with wet cLiy and surround 
the trunk with a sheet of sheathing paper eight or nine 
inches wide, which should extend two inches below the 
level of the soil, and tie above. Fresh, wet clay should 
then be put around the roots so as to hold the paper and 
prevent access beneath it, filling up with new loam. Do 
this in the spring, or in June. Next winter remove the 
strings and next spring again examine the trees for borers 
and renew the protecting application. Heretofore, on 
the peninsula, we have merely had to destroy the borer 
by scratching around the trunks of the trees, and in the 
earth around it, and hooking him out wherever found ; 
destroy him, and also' destroy all cocoons, and scratch 
out suspicious looking places in the bark. This is all 
that is necessary now, but we don't know what may 
come to us, and to be forewarned is to be forearmed ; for 
this reason I have given Harris' method of destroying 
them. From what we have said of the worms, it will be 
seen that they may be present all through warm weather, 
and you must begin to watch for them in June and on 
through until frost. Whenever you see gum or saw-dust 
about the body of the tree, or in the crotches of large 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. lOI 

branches, but more especially near the ground, hunt for 
the borer and pull him out and destroy him by any 
method you can command ; by a knife blade, a piece of 
wire, your finger, or a stick, or what not. Clean the hole 
and bark about it, stuff up the hole with common soap, 
or with the common carbolic soap of the shops, or soft 
soap, and soap the bark of the tree, or apply a tree- 
wash. In this way, and in this way only, can you get 
rid of this pest. Maj. B. T. Biggs says, gas lime is 
obnoxious to the borer and a quantity may be spread 
around the tree. Young trees should be especially 
watched, and their bark kept clean. In warm weather 
have them gone over once or twice, and rubbed 
down with a coarse cloth, or a broom or brush, and 
in this way you will keep them free with little trouble 
from worms, and have a healthy orchard as it gets older. 
TJirips, which Harris rather places among bugs, but 
which may be the European {Aphis Persiccs) Peach- 
Louse. They draw large quantities of the sap from the 
leaves from numerous punctures, and disarrange the 
functions of the leaves, and hence, the food of the tree, 
and again thus injure not only the crop of fruit, but the 
tree itself. They make reddish tumors on the leaves 
which naturalists, according to Harris, call galls — 
because they resemble those formed in the same way, as 
in oak galls. These tumors on one side, and hollows on 
the corresponding opposite side make it look like curled 



I02 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

leaf, and this may be, or really is, one cause of curled 
leaf, but another form exists as has been previously 
described ; the leaves thus affected drop as other curled 
leaves. Soap-suds, or soap-suds and tobacco, sprinkled 
on the leaves will destroy these pests. Insectivorous 
birds will destroy them. Fruit growers, spare the birds 
when possible. Plant some cherries and such, for them, 
and they will work for you when all fruit has gone, and 
before it comes. 

BARK-LICE— (CocctdcF — Harris.) 
These infest the bark of the peach tree to a certain 
extent, but the peach has not yet suffered as the apple 
has in this country, but, if the peach continues to be 
grown much longer, all these pests will attack it, for 
what ever lives in this world has enemies which cause 
life to fight its way, and whilst on the peninsula we have 
no scientist to tell us of these things, to forewarn us 
and give us remedies, our trees may be overwhelmed 
at any time. A favorable place to find bark-lice of one 
species is on the powder-willow, and in summer if you 
sit under one of these trees thus infested, you will soil 
your clothing with a dye of a cochineal color, which 
comes from the juice of the crushed bugs, and is, I 
suppose, a really very good cochineal dye. These bark- 
lice live on the bark of the tree, roots and limbs, and are 
found again on the leaves. They are scaly, male and 
female, and increase rapidly. They live by suction from 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. IO3 

the bark and leaf-stems of the tree. Harris believes 
the male and female pair in the autumn, the male perish- 
ing, and the female surviving the winter ; this study he 
made on the apple aphis ; the following spring the 
female lays her eggs. He says that after the meeting of 
the sexes the body of the female increases in size and 
becomes convex, and now serves to shelter the eggs. 
The eggs, when matured, pass under the mother's body, 
and this shrinks, gradually, until nothing is left but the 
dry outer convex skin, when the mother dies and the 
body protects the eggs until hatched — and if not large 
enough a kind of down is thrown out, which completes 
the covering. Birds destroy these lice, and they are also 
destroyed, Harris says, by parasites within them. The 
best wash to destroy them, Harris gives as follows : 
Two parts soft soap and eight parts water, with lime 
enough to make a thick white-wash ; work thoroughly 
into the crevices of the bark and parts affected. 
CURCULIO. 
The Curculio, according to Dr. S. Kneeland, is a 
small beetle. The perfect insect is one-fifth of an inch 
long, dark brown, with white, yellow, and black spots. 
Shaken from a tree it feigns death and looks like, merely, 
a dried bud — it has a curved snout bent under the thorax 
when at rest, which is the instrument with which the 
curculio makes the crescent-shaped puncture in the fruit 
and in which it deposits the egg — the jaw is at the end of 



104 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

the snout — the thorax is uneven, and the wing-cases are 
rigid and humped, covering two transparent wings by 
which the curculio flies from tree to tree. Behind the 
humps is a yellowish-white spot ; each thigh has two 
small teeth on the under side. They appear on the 
peninsula between the first of April and the first of July, 
it depending on the forwardness of vegetation when 
they commence to appear. When the peaches get to be 
the size of cherries, the female goes from peach to peach, 
makes her half-moon shaped cut, and deposits one egg. 
She continues until her store is exhausted. The grubs 
are hatched by the heat of the sun, and resemble white 
maggots with a light-brown head ; they immediately 
burrow obliquely to the stone of the peach. The fruit 
thus weakened, becomes gummy and drops prematurely 
Now the grub, full-size, leaves the peach on the ground 
and goes into the ground becoming a pupa, (chrysalis,) 
and in three weeks comes out a full-grown curculio ; so 
its wheel of life goes around. 

In full, or even moderate, bearing years, the curculio^ 
while very active, doubtlessly, does not make much 
impression on the crop, but when the yield is light, at 
the beginning, the damage done by this pest, I have no 
doubt, is a very serious one. When you are going 
through your orchard in early warm weather, and see a 
small, brown object, like an elephant in miniature, suck 
at a small peach on the tree, that is the female curculio 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. IO5 

depositing her egg. Remedies for curculio are, to jar 
the tree with a wooden mallet, by a series of quick, 
smart taps on the trunk and limbs, and shake it, and thus 
many of the females will fall to the ground whilst in the 
act of depositing their eggs, and may be caught on any 
object, like a white sheet, and destroyed. Scatter air- 
slacked lime over the tree, as soon as you see the fruit 
appearing, once a week, for six weeks. Use flowers-of- 
sulphur several times in the same way, or put it in 
white-wash with a little glue in it, and throw over, or 
spray the trees with any of the syringes or pumps now 
in use. Burn all fallen fruit, and cut out and burn all 
excrescences growing out of the trees, as the eggs may 
be deposited in these. See Harris on Insects injurious 
to Vegetation, and American Cyclopedia, from which I 
have, in a large measure, taken these descriptions. 

As enemies to the peach, we have, again, rabbits 
and mice, and especially are these pests serious among 
young trees planted in new ground, or in ground that 
has not had the vegetation turned under before planting 
the trees. In such ground, many trees will be girdled 
and lost, especially in a hard winter. The remedies are, 
to tramp frequently about the trees when snow is on the 
ground ; shoot the rabbits, and run them frequently 
with dogs, and put tar paper about the trees. Keep your 
orchards clean, and these animals will seek more con- 
genial pastures. Sultry weather in picking time is 



I06 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

often a serious embarrassment, and thus many peaches 
soften down and are lost, but the remedy is to increase 
your force, to hurry off those coming to perfection, and 
to use your evaporator freely, if you have one. Such 
drawbacks, together with wind-storms, hail-storms and 
such like, we must take as visitations sent by God, and 
the nearer we can receive them in the spirit of Gold- 
smith's Vicar of Wakefield, the nearer will we approach 
human happiness, in respect to peach-growing, at least. 



Chapter VI. 

VARIETIES OF THE PEACH FOR THE PENINSULA. 

In speaking of the varieties of the peach, there are 
numerous specimens of the great number existing that 
I will not even name, for I am writing for this locality. 
and shall confine myself to those varieties that flourish 
here. The general varieties, including seedlings, run 
far into the hundreds, but it is only tested or promising 
varieties, that we have to deal with. 

The different peaches may be separated ; first, 
according to their colors, yellow and white ; secondly, 
as freestones and clings ; thirdly, by their leaves, dif- 
ferent serrations, etc. ; fourthly, by their blossoms, form 
and color of, etc. ; and lastly, by the appearances of the 
trees, and by the presence or absence of glands of 
different kinds on the leaves, as globose glands, kidney- 
shaped glands, and by the absence of glands, etc. I 
have prepared the following list of peaches, which will 
thrive on the Peninsula with, probably, greater luxuri- 
ance, than on any other spot in the known world. Some 
of these, of course, will thrive better than others, and 
some will be found to be grown with little profit, and 



io8 



THE CULTIVATION OF THE 



others, again, will be found very profitable. From these 
last, of course, it will be our policy to make the final 
selections for orchard-planting for profit. 



Early Alexander, 
Amsdens June, 
Early Beatrice, 
Early Louise, 

Early Rivers, 
Hale's Early, 
Crawford's Early, 
Wager. 
Old Mixon, 
Christiana No. i, 
Susquehanna, 
Stump the World, 
Sallie Worrall. 
Golden Beauty, 
Shipley's Late Red, 
Variegated Free, 
Beer's Smock, 
Townsend's Late Yellow, 
Townsend's Late Red, 
Salway, 

Allen's October, 
Bilyeu's Late October, 



Fleitas or Yellow St. John, 

Troths Early Red, 

Mountain Rose, 

Large Early York "j 

or V 

*Honest John, ) 

Foster, 

Reeves Favorite, 

Moore's Favorite, 

Crawford's Late, 

Pullen, 

Ward's Late Free, 

Bequette Free, 

Fox's Seedling, 

Stephen's Late, 

Brandywine or Prize, 

Smock, 

Wilkins' Late Heath Cling, 

Last of the Season, 

Keyport Late, 

Crocketts White, 

White or Late Heath, 

Christiana No. 2, 



* There is also a yellow "Honest John," coming in with Crawford's Early and much 
resembling it, though of a more pyriiorm shape. It will, in many orchards, be found 
substituted for tarly Crawford's. 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. IO9 

Mary's Choice, Magnum Bonum, 

Geary's Hold On, President, 

Brown's Choice, Wheatland, 

Henrietta (Cling.) Kilborn or Canada Iron Clad. 

Some of these peaches are not familiar to me, but 
when they are endorsed by such experts in the propaga- 
tion of trees as, E. R. Cochran, J. G. Brown, and E. A. 
Ely, I willingly give them a place. They are not given 
in the order of their ripening ; that 1 will give as near as 
I can in a table, showing the ripening of peaches. 

Early Alexander- -White.- Ripens last of June to 
first of July, depending on its location north or south on 
the peninsala, as will be the ripening of all peaches here 
described. The best of the very early peaches. 

Amsden's June. — Much like Early Alexander, but if 
any difference it is inferior to it. 

Early Beatrice — Reniform Glands. — Mottled-red 
cheek, etc., small, inferior, and not worth growing. 

Early Louise — Reniform Glands. — Larger than Early 
Beatrice, but I do not recommend it. None of these 
early peaches carry well, are very tender, both tree and 
the fruit, rot badly, especially if weather is wet and 
warm at ripening time. 

Early Rivers — Reniform Glands. — Large, good 
peach ; pale straw-color ; the best of the early peaches, 



no THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

and desirable to plant, especially on lower part of the 
peninsula, on light, sandy soil. 

Hales Early. — Has no desirable qualities ; what it 
had having been supplanted by better varieties. 

Fleitas or Platers or Yellow St. John. — Large, round 
orange-yellow peach, good color, good flavor, and a 
peach, as far as I can find out, I am inclined to recom- 
mend freely. 

Troth's Early Red — Globose Glands. — Regular 
bearer, but small. First class to evaporate, and I think 
some should be planted, where we have Evaporators, 
and especially in lower part of the peninsula. Ships well, 
and gives beautiful red centres after evaporation. Is a 
white peach. 

Mountain Rose — White, — and one of the best of its 
date. Resembles the Early York. 

Large Early York, or Honest John — Glandless, with 
serrated leaves — White. — A very good peach. This 
species is larger than the old Early York, but has less of 
the delicious Early York flavor. 

Foster — Yellow, — and said to be a very fine peach ; 
is being largely planted, and is highly recommended. 
Ripens just before Crawford's Early, and said to be a 
better peach. 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. Ill 

Crawford's Early — Globose Glands. — Get the true 
©Id-fashioned Crawford's Early, and not the Yellow 
Melocotoon, which is most often sold for it, and you get 
a grand, early, yellow peach. 

Wager — Globose Glands. — Good sized, lemon-yellow 
peach which originated in New York state and is highly 
spoken of there ; said to reproduce itself from the stone 
every time ; said to withstand frost well. I have fruited 
it in my garden. Here, it is a very prolific bearer and a 
strong rapid-growing tree. The peach is juicy and of 
a delicious apricotish flavor, flesh straw-color, and skin 
dotted with reddish-brown spots and often a hand- 
some red blush. In field-culture, I think, will ripen with 
us after Early Crawford ; I have budded and planted 
several hundred in my orchards, and believe it will be a 
success as a producer of fairly large, and good looking, 
well flavored fruit, and will be a regular bearer. 

Reeves Favorite — Globose Glands. — Yellow, and one 
of the grandest of peaches, but, like all extra large ones, 
a shy bearer and producer. It does better in some places 
than in others, and is a far better producer than Susque- 
hanna or Pullen. I dont want too many of them for 
profit. 

Old Mixon — Globose Glands. — White, elegant to 
ship, with beautiful blush, and altogether desirable for 
profit. In flavor it is facile princeps among peaches. 



112 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

Moore s Favorite — Globose Glands. — Like the above, 
but not so free a bearer. Ripens a day or two before 
old Mixon. A grand peach. 

Christiana^ No. i and Christiana, No. 2. 

Yellow Free-stone. — No. 2 the one to get if possible. 
Comes between Crawford's Late and Smock, and for this 
reason should be desirable if it should be a good bearer. 

Crawford's Late — Globose Glands. — A grand, Yellow 
freestone peach, and is, and should be, in every orchard. 
Is profitable, even if a little shy at times, and tender as 
to frost. Plant it. 

Susquehanna — Yellow. — A grand peach, but don't 
plant it. It is too shy a bearer. 

Pullen — Yellow. — Grand, but if you want profit, I 
would not recommend it. It is shy, and is much the 
same peach as the Susquehanna. If you want to show 
your wares at the Fair, have some of these two peaches. 

Stump the World — Globose Glands — White free- 
stone, — with beautiful color. One of the old reliables 
like old Mixon. Stump, next to Smock is, probably, 
the best peach to evaporate, and should be very largely 
planted. 

Ward's Late Free — Reniform Glands — White free- 
stone, — and fine. I prefer Moore's, Mixon's and Stump, 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. II3 

to Ward's. Ward, more apt to shed its fruit, and is, for 
this fault, not profitable. 

Sally Worrall — Freestone, White. — A North Carolina 
new peach, recommended to me by E. A. Ely, and that 
is a good recommendation. 

Bequette Free. — E. A. Ely recommends it, and that 
is all I know about it. 

Golden Beauty . — Same recommendation as Bequette 
Free. 

Fox' s Seedling — Globose Glands — White freestone. — 
Ripens at a time to make it valuable, and is productive, 
and is very largely planted on the peninsula. 

Shipley s Late Red — Large, White, Red Blush, free- 
stone. — Ripens about with Smock, and is highly recom- 
mended. 

Stephen's Late — White freestone. — Ripens the end of 
September, and is highly recommended by E. A. Ely. 
It is a rareripe. 

Variegated Free. — Introduced by H. R. Walker, 
Esq., of Middletown, Del. A seedling of the old 
Variegated Free. White skin, shaded and striped with 
red. A white peach, and is desirable. 

Brandywine, or Prize. — Said to be larger than 
Crawford's Late, and, probably, a seedling of it. Comes 



114 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

in with Smock, and this makes it desirable. I have a 
notion it is a little shy, and I know it does much better 
in the heavier soil of the upper Peninsula, than it does 
in the lighter sandy soil below. It will probably prove 
a very valuable peach. 

Beers Smock — Reniform Glands. — Plant plenty of 
this old reliable — second quality though it be — it brings 
profit to the grower. The best to produce weight after 
evaporation and canning. Yellow freestone. Quite 
certain, and a very prolific bearer. 

Common Smock — Reniform Glands. — A little behind 
Beer's Smock in size, etc. ; ripens a day or two before, 
and if anything, will stand more frost than its bigger 
brother. 

Townsend's Late Yellow. — E: R. Cochran recom- 
mends it, and that is a good reason to plant it. 

Tow7isend's Late Red. — The same comment applies 
to this peach. 

Last of the Season. — The same with this peach. 

Wilkin's Late Heath Cling — Reniform Glands. — 
Cling, and nearly double the size of White Late Heath 
Cling. 

White Late Heath — Reniform Glands. — Not so large,, 
but, probably, a better bearer than Wilkin's. These 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. II5 

peaches sell well for brandying, etc, but I don't think 
they are, as a rule, profitable orchard varieties. 

Salway. — Rather small, late Yellow freestone. Fair 
to evaporate, and does best on light, sandy land. 

Key port White — White flesh, a free white seed. 
Jersey gives it 18 good marks out of a possible 30. 
Probably, we don't want many of them on the Peninsula, 
nor of 

Crockett's White — Reniform Glands, either. 

Brown's Choice. — J. G. Brown, of Camden, Del., 
says this is the best white peach, comes after Moore's 
Favorite, and is one of the best peaches, one of the best 
shippers, and one of the most profitable peaches he 
raises. There is no better authority than Jacob G. 
Brown, of Camden, Delaware. 

Magnum Bonum. — Also recommended by J. G. 
Brown, and that is all I know of it. 

President — Globose Glands — Red, — and very large 
and profitable. E. R. Cochran recommends it, and so 
does he recommend 

Allen's October — Late — Free — Yellow. 

Bilyeu's Late October — White — Free, — red cheek ; 
very hard, but let it drop and lay on the ground ten days 
and it becomes a pretty good peach to eat. 



Il6 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

Geary s Hold-on — Large — Yclloiv — Free. — Said to be 
a seedling of the Smock. Is late. 

Marys Choice — J. G. Brown recommends it. 

Henrietta. — The late Randolph Peters called it the 
most magnificent yellow cling known. Large ; mostly- 
bright crimson ; hardy; sure bearer and productive. It 
brings fancy prices. 

'Wheatland. — E. A. Ely recommends it for the 
Peninsula, but personally I know nothing about it. 

Now we come to one of the most important points 
in peach culture, viz : The selection of the varieties for 
the orchard. It is a great mistake to have too many 
kinds, even in a large orchard, and it is necessary to 
watch the progress of the business, for what might have 
been profitable several years ago, may not be profitable 
now. For example, the improved means of transporta- 
tion is throwing the southern fruit into the northern 
markets, and they compete with the early fruit, and take 
all the edge off of buyers before we can get ours in from 
the peninsula. Next, canning and evaporating have 
measureably increased, and it is necessary to take this 
into consideration, and plant with these interests in 
view, and, especially if we have large establishments of 
this kind near us, plant for their especial needs. Then, 
by observation and inquiry, see what does best in your 
neighborhood, and I assure you that this is important, 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. II7 

for the same peach may act dififerently even on adjoining 
farms, or even fields. Study the peculiar soil that each 
variety demands. Before you plant, decide whether you 
will plant particularly for canning, or evaporating, or for 
shipping, or, will you combine all .'' If you have a retail 
market near you, and wish to retail, particularly if your 
orchard is small, study well the demands of this market. 
In my own orchards, of over ten thousand trees, I don't 
think I have over six hundred trees coming in before 
Mountain Rose ; and had I to plant them to-day I would 
not have that many, situated as my orchards are, north 
of Wyoming. 

In the answers to my questions sent out to some of 
the most intelligent of our peninsula fruit-growers, will 
be found their views on the varieties to plant in an 
orchard of one thousand trees, and now I will give my 
own views on this subject. 

For an orchard ol one thousand trees, with a view 
of selling to dealers in a near market, as Wilmington, 
for instance, or of retailing the fruit in such a market, it 
being within driving distance of me, I would plant as 
follows : 



Yellow. 




White. 




Early Rivers, 


10 


Mountain Rose, 


100 


St. John, 


20 


Old Mixon, 


150 


Foster, 


100 


Moore's Favorite 


100 



Il8 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

Wager, 25 Stump the World, 150 

Reeves' Favorite, 20 Shipley's Late Red. 50 

Crawford's Late, 100 — — 
Brandy wine, (or Prize,) 50 Total white, 550 

Beer's Smock, 100 
Wilkins' Late Heath 

Cling, 25 



Total yellow, 450 
Now the reader may say, here are too many varieties ; 
but recollect it is for a retail orchard, near Wilmington 
or other large towns. The varieties are all good, of 
the kind demanded here, and will give a succession of 
fruit from the beginning to the end of the season. If the 
grower choose he may cut it down by eliminating such 
as Wager, Reeves, Brandywine, and Shipley's Late 
Red, and substitute for them, additional Crawford's Late, 
Beer's Smock and old Mixon, but in my opinion he will 
diminish his chances of always having fruit. 

For an orchard of one thousand trees south of 
Wyoming I would plant as follows : 

AN ORCHARD OF ONE THOUSAND TREES SOUTH OF 

WYOMING. 

Yellow. White. 

Early Rivers, 50 Troth's Early Red, 25 

St. John, 25 Old Mixon, 175 

(Note. — In lajge orchards never plant a few peaches of one variety 
unless for experiment. Less than fifty trees of one variety are a nuisance if 
you have five thousand trees or more. ) 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. II9 



Crawford's Early, 


50 


Moore's favorite, 


100 


Foster, 


50 


Stump the World, 


200 


Wager, 


25 


Fox's Seedling, 


75 


Beer's Smock, 


150 


Shipley's Late Red, 


50 


Salway, 


25 






Total Yellow, 


375 


Total White, 


625 



I put in Salway here because it is a peach for light, 
sandy soil, and will do best of these late peaches, but I 
don't fancy any of them greatly, because the edge of the 
market is gone, they are not sought for, and the northern 
peaches are so much better in the varieties they send at 
this time. Probably, Shipley's Late Red would pay 
better than these 25 Salways, 

FOR AN ORCHARD OF ONE THOUSAND TREES AROUND 
WYOMING AND DOVER. 

Here we need good shippers, good evaporators, and 
good canners — and have a soil combining most of the 
advantages to grow them in. For this region I give the 
list of Jacob G. Brown, of Camdem, with a slight modifi- 
cation from the list of Dr. Henry Ridgely, of Dover. I 
know of no better authorities on peaches anywhere, than 
these two gentlemen. 



Yelloiv. 




White. 




Early Rivers, 


25 


Troth's Early Red, 


25 


Foster, 


25 


Old Mixon, 


100 



120 THE CULTIVAVION OF THE 



St. John, 


25 


Moore's Favorite, 


50 


Crawford's Early, 


50 


Stump the World, 


150 


Christiana, No. 2, 


25 


Fox's Seedling, 


100 


Crawford's Late, 


75 


Variegated Free, 


25 


Brandywine or Prize, 


25 


Shipley's Late Red, 


25 


Beer's Smock, 


100 


Wilkin's White Heath 




Geary's Hold-on, 


25 


Cling, 


25 






Temple's Late White, 


25 


Total Yellow, 


375 


Brown's Choice, 


100 



Total White, 625 

Here are nineteen varieties, a good many, truly, but 
in this hive of peach industry, we want the fruit at all 
times, and under all circumstances, to eat, to can, to 
evaporate, to ship, and it must possess qualities for all 
these purposes. I have increased stumps here, for it is 
a grand peach to ship, to can, and next to smock, the 
best to evaporate, and is profitable in any way you can 
take it ; it is a good and regular bearer, and, oh, 
such a pretty peach to look upon. You will notice in 
this list that the white fruit slightly predominates. I 
believe this is as it should be, for profit. It is more sure 
in bearing, standing the frost better. It is grand fruit to 
ship, to can, to evaporate, and to eat. Perhaps, to-day, 
the yellow fruit predominates on the peninsula, but I am 
a firm believer in making the division as to color, near 
or quite even, in order to facilitate the proper regulation 
of the business. 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 121 

FOR AN ORCHARD OF ONE THOUSAND TREES NORTH 

OF WYOMING AND DOVER. 

Yelloxv. White. 
St. John, 25 Mountain Rose, 50 
Crawford's Early, 25 Old Mixon, 150 
Foster, 25 Moore's Favorite, 75 
Wager, 25 Stump the World, 150 
Crawford's Late, 100 Fox's Seedling, 100 
Brandywine or Prize, 50 Steven's Late, 25 
Beer's Smock, 150 Shipley's Late Red, 25 
Wilkins' White Heath 



Total Yellow, 400 Cling, 25 



Total White, 600 

Here I commence with Mountain Rose, because I 
think there is no profit or satisfaction in growing the 
extra early peaches in this district. 

For a family orchard on the peninsula, I would 
recommend the following varieties, which will give 
peaches to eat all through the season, and peaches to can, 
peaches to evaporate, and for all kinds of preserves, 
pickles, etc. 

A PENINSULA FAMILY PEACH ORCHARD OF ONE 

HUNDRED TREES. 

Yellow. White. 

Early Rivers, 2 Early Alexander, i 

St. John, 2 Troth's Early Red, 2 



122 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 



Foster, 


3 


Mountain Rose, 


3 


Crawford's Early, 


3 


Old Mixon, 


10 


Wager, 


3 


Moore's Favorite, 


5 


Reeves' Favorite, 


5 


Stump the World, 


13 


Crawford's Late, 


5 


Fox's Seedling, 


3 


Brandywine or Prize, 


5 


Shipley's Late Red, 


3 


Smock, 


15 


Brown's Choice, 


4 


Geary's Hold On, 


5 


Wilkins' White Heath 




Henrietta Cling, 


2 


Cling, 


5 


Total Yellow, 


50 


Bilyeu's Late October, 
Total White, 


I 
50 



TABLE SHOWING THE TIME OF RIPENING OF THE 

LEADING VARIETIES OF PEACHES GROWN ON 

THE PENINSULA. 

Of course, neither this nor any other table of the 
kind can be absolutely correct, but I believe it will give 
the average time of ripening, taking, say, an average 
of five years, and will be a valuable table for reference. 
It is made out for the latitude of Wyoming, and for 
every ten miles south of Wyoming anticipate one day, 
and for every ten miles north of Wyoming, add one day. 

Early Alexander, (White, Free), July i to 7. 
Amsden's June, (White, Free). July i to 7. 
Early Beatrice, (White, Free), July 15 to 20. 
Early Louise, (White, Free), July 20 to 25. 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. I23 

Early Rivers, (Pale-Yellow, Free), July 20 to 25. 
Hale's Early, (White, Semi-Free), Aug. 4 to 7. 
Troth's Early Red, (White, Free, Red Centre 
Peach), Aug. 15 to 20. 

Mountain Rose, (White, Free), Aug. 23. 

St. John, (Yellow, Free), Aug. 25. 

Large Early York, (White, Free), Aug. 25. 

Foster, (Yellow, Free), Aug. 15 to 18. 

Crawford's Early, (Yellow, Free), Aug. 15 to 20. 

Wager, (Pale-Yellow, Free), Aug. 20 to 25. 

Reeves' Favorite, Yellow, Free), Aug. 20. 

Moore's Favorite, (White, Free), Aug. 23. 

Old Mixon, (White, Free), Aug. 25. 

President, (White, Free), Aug. 27. 

Susquehanna, (Yellow, Free), Aug. 31. 

PuUen, (Yellow, Free), Aug. 31. 

Stump the World, (White, Free), Sept i. 

Crawford's Late, (Yellow, Free). Aug. 30. 

Ward's Late Free, (White, Free), Sept. i to 2. 

Christiana, No. 2, (Yellow, Free), Sept. 2. 

Sallie Worrall, (White, Free), Sept. i. 

Fox's Seedling, (White, Free), Sept. 5 to 7. 

Brandywine, or Prize, (Yellow, Free), Sept. 8 to 10. 

Shipley's Late Red, (White, Free), Sept. 10. 

Variegated Free, (White, Free), Sept. 12. 

Smock, (Yellow, Free), Sept. 13. 

Crockett's White, (White, Free), Sept. 14. 



124 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

Beer's Smock, (Yellow, Free), Sept. 15. 

Keyport Late, (White, Free), Sept. 18. 

Stephen's Late, (White, Free), Sept. 20. 

Salway, (Yellow, Free), Sept. 20 to 25. 

Allen's Late October, (Yellow, Free), Oct. i to 10. 

Bilyeu's Late October, (White, Free), Oct. i to"^i2. 

Geary's Hold On, (Yellow, Free), 'Sept. 23 to 25. 

Temple's Late White, Sept. 15. 

Magnum Bonum, (Yellow, Free), Sept. 6 to 10. 

White Heath Cling, (White, Cling), Oct. i to 5. 

Wilkin's White Heath Cling, (White, Cling), Oct. 
I to 5. 

Wheatland, (Yellow, Free), Aug. 30. 

Henrietta, (Yellow, Cling), last of Sept. to Oct. 5. 

Mary's Choice, (Yellow, Free), Aug. 20. 

Bequette Free, (White), very large, and is pro- 
ductive, Sept. I. 

Golden Beauty, Yellow, Ripens near St. John, 
Aug. 18. 

Lord Palmerston, (White, Pale Red, Large), very 
late, said to be sure and productive. 

Arkansas Traveler, (White), Ripens with Alexander. 

Bonanza, (White, Free), very large, 15 days later 
than Salway. Productive. 

Kilborn or Canada Iron-clad, July 20 to 25. 

Mrs. Brett, (White), Aug. 20, very large, and 
exactly like Old Mixon. Productive. Recommended 
as the best peach grown. 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 12$ 

Onward, (Yellow), like Foster. Good color. Large 
bloom. 

Topaz, (Yellow), large. Large bloom, sure and 
productive. 

Early Beauty, comes about with St. John. 

The time of ripening, as given in this table, is to be 
understood to refer to the time when the peach is in a 
fit condition to be gathered for shipping to distant 
markets. 



TABLE SHOWING THE APPRECIATION OF THE QUALITY 
OF SOME OF THE LEADING VARIETIES OF PEACHES, 

taken chiefly from the Reports of the New Jersey State Horticultural Society. 

j^ Total No. Possible No. 

^'^^^ of Merits. of Merits. 

Alexander's Early, 21 40 

Amsden's June, 14 35 

Early Beatrice, 7 25 

Early Louise, 4 lO 

Early Rivers 5 10 

Mountain Rose, 54 55 

Large Early York or Honest John, 35 50 

Troth's Early Red, 26 45 

Crawford's Early, 36 50 

Foster, 15 20 

Wager, 15 25 

Wheatland, 8 lo 



126 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

^a^g Total No. Possible No. 

of Merits. of Merits. 

Mrs. Brett, 15 35 

Stump-the-World, 52 60 

Old Mixon, 59 60 

Lord Palmerston, 18 25 

Crawford's Late, 60 60 

Fox's Seedling, 14 15 

Steven's Late, , . 17 20 

Keyport White, 18 30 

Beer's Smock, 42 50 

Salway, 19 45 

Bilyeu's October, 11 20 

Moore's Favorite, 25 35 

Smock, 38 50 

Brown's Choice, 43 50 

Mary's Choice, 36 50 

Magnum Bonum, ... 40 50 

Brandywine or prize, 40 50 

Golden Beauty, 30 45 

Bequette Free, 25 45 

Sally Worrall, 30 45 

As I said before, many of these reports are taken 
from the New Jersey State Horticultural Society, and a 
few I have added in accord with my own opinions. 



Chapter VII. 



GATHERING THE CROP, OR PICKING PEACHES. 

The crop having arrived at the point of perfection 
in growth, its handling now comes to be of the greatest 
importance, for on the picking of the fruit, taking it 
neither too hard, or too soft, from the trees, depends in 
a great measure, the condition in which it will reach the 
markets, and if this condition be anything but right, 
serious loss will ensue. 

The trees being rather small, many of the peaches 
can be picked from the ground, but when they are too 
high for this method of gathering, the picker pulls down 
the limb with a hook, made, usually, from a forked stick 
of some tough wood, one side of the fork being cut off 
to about four or five inches long, and the other running 
out six or eight feet, to form the handle. This is used 
from the ground, or, if necessary, the picker mounts a 
ladder, or steps, called a peach ladder, and fills his 
basket, setting it on a shelf prepared for it, on the top 
part of the ladder. The wood of the peach is brittle 
and easily split or broken, and pickers ought to be 



128 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

frequently cautioned to be careful to work gently, and 
to break or split as few limbs as possible. If you are 
picking for long shipments you must take the fruit fully 
formed, but hard. If for a near-by market, you may 
let it fill up more, and even show signs of ripening, but 
not softness. If you are picking for canners you want 
it full and ripe, but not soft, and, for the evaporator, you 
can use it hard, soft, or very soft. This evaporator is a 
great help to the grower, but equally as much the enemy 
to his pen of hogs. Formerly, the pigs got everything 
that could not be shipped. Now the evaporator has 
changed all this, and no part of the crop goes amiss. 

I think, sometimes, many of our peaches are picked 
a few days too soon, for by letting them remain on the 
trees until a few drop, the remainder swell, measuring 
better, and the dropped ones go to the evaporator, so 
that, altogether, we get a better profit. Nevertheless, 
this getting the peach off the tree, at just the right time, 
requires great experience and good judgment, and, of 
the two errors, picking them too hard will be the least 
costly. The peaches are picked at random, in the 
orchard, as to size, but with care as to condition, and 
most varieties will require going over at least three times, 
on as many different days. As they are picked they are 
taken to the peach house, which may be a temporary 
structure in the orchard or near it, or to the farm-barn, 
or granary. Here they are sorted into grades, and the Del- 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. I29 

aware Fruit Exchange grades are the proper ones. No. 
I, No. 2, No. 3, and fancy, or double extra. What are left 
after this sorting, goes to the evaporator, or the hogs, 
and, 'in seasons of great plenty, probably. No. 3 is not 
often profitably shipped. They are culled by hand, or 
by Jones' Peach-Culler. Peaches should be handled by 
hand, and never poured from one receptacle to another, 
when possible to avoid it, for hand-culled fruit always 
looks the best, but when the crop is large and help is 
short, the peach-culler will be found of very great use. 
When the peaches have been culled and put in their 
proper receptacles — baskets or crates — they are ready for 
the last touches, sprigging the tops (if baskets) with 
twigs and green leaves of the peach, or putting on 
wooden or muslin covers. We don't often cover any 
except "Fancy", and don't sprig any below No. i, but a 
great deal depends on the demands of your intended 
market. The next step is to take the baskets or crates 
of peaches to the cars or boat. This should always be 
done in a spring wagon, and then you can drive as fast 
as peach men generally drive, and that is fast, I assure 
you. Loading them carefully, ends the active participa- 
tion of the grower in handling his crop. 

MARKETING THE CROP. 

Here comes in the most responsible, the most 
perplexing, and often the most annoying part of this 
whole hazardous business. The peach is perishable, 
9 



130 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

swiftly perishable, and whatever is done with it must be 
done quickly or it will cease to represent value. This 
being the case, as with all other such merchandize, their 
handling is expensive, because the animals which bring 
them from the orchard must move quickly, the men who 
load them must move quickly, and the cars or boats that 
transport them, must have extra-quick dispatch. The 
whole business is done, as it were, on the run, and when 
one comes to investigate the difference between 
transporting a ton of freight an hundred miles, at the 
rate of fifteen miles an hour, and transporting it the same 
distance at the rate of forty miles an hour, he can 
appreciate, in some degree, why we are compelled to pay 
high prices for transporting our fruit. It is a grand and 
sure business to the transportation companies, but a very 
precarious one to the producer, this matter of seeking 
distant markets for our peaches, at high rates of speed. 
There is no shadow of doubt of one thing, that is, it is to 
the interest of the grower to sell his fruit at his railroad 
station or steamboat landing, or, in other words, it is to 
the growers interest to bring the buyer as near to him as 
possible and there sell him his fruit, and let the buyer 
ship to distant points, where he has his market well in 
hand, and has the choice of fruit to supply it. The 
grower has the advantage of personally supervising the 
sale, and has a share in making his prices ; whereas, if he 
ships to commission men, be they ever so honest, he 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. I3I 

knows absolutely nothing of the sale of his fruit in a 
hurried crowd and a distant market, over which he has 
not the least control. As to the buyer, he has great 
advantages, too. He deals with the producer, he gets 
his fruit fresh, he buys through the Delaware Fruit 
Exchange, or ought to, and has the benefit of inspection 
of the fruit by a sworn Inspector at the point he may 
happen to buy, and, above all, he sends his fruit to his 
market in good order with no re-handling or transship- 
ment. " Bring buyers to your stations ! " should be the 
rallying cry of the. Peninsula Fruit Growers, and I sin- 
cerely believe that, to a man, they should take up the 
Delaware Fruit Exchange, elaborate it, and bring it 
to the perfection its enterprising originators are striving 
for. A successful shipment to Europe was made this 
year by one of the Messrs. Cochran, of Middletown, in 
individual crates*, and I learn it was in every way 
successful. This would make a desirable outlet for 
fancy fruit. 

THE DELAWARE FRUIT EXCHANGE 

is a corporation of the State of Delaware. Capital 
$300,000. Capital stock, 30,000 shares, at ten dollars 
per share. W. H. Ridgeway, President ; A. N. Brown, 
Secretary. 

Its objects are, first, to bring buyers to the railroad 
stations. 



132 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

Second. To secure and maintain confidence between 
buyers and sellers by providing for inspection of the 
fruit, and branding the same according- to quality, as 
follows : " Fancy," highest brand ; No. i, second highest ; 
No. 2, third highest ; and No. 3, the lowest brand. 

Third. To sell by auction to the highest bidder, for 
cash. For this sale, with inspection, the charge is one 
cent per basket, to be paid by the grower. 

Fourth. The headquarters to be at Wyoming, 
Kent County, Delaware, with inspectors at such other 
stations on the Peninsula, as may be desired, or may be 
practicable ; these branch inspectors to inspect and 
grade the fruit, and report it when so graded and 
inspected by the car-load, to Wyoming, when it is to be 
put up and sold by the car-load to the highest bidder, 
with the grade guaranteed by the Delaware Fruit 
Exchange. This is business, and there is absolute con- 
fidence guaranteed betv/een buyer and seller ; the profit 
and satisfaction to each can only be appreciated by 
those who thus transact this business. 

Only stockholders can sell fruit in the Exchange, 
but a non-stockholder may sell his fruit through a 
stockholder, by paying the usual commission of one 
cent per basket. 

The expenses of the Exchange are : pay for 
inspectors, for travelling agents looking up markets, 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 133 

now and again, (this feature I deem very advantageous 
to the fruit growers,) their temporary headquarters at 
Wyoming, with such incidentals as printing, etc ; 
certainly an economical corporation. 

This year the Exchange sold, at Wyoming, fifty 
thousand baskets of peaches of the three hundred 
thousand baskets brought to that station. The fruit 
sold through the Exchange averaged 4^ cents more 
per basket, than that sold outside. 

The Fruit Exchange is a success, now, and will be 
more of a success when there comes a large crop and 
more fruit than buyers. This year, (1885,) there were 
more buyers than fruit. When the large crop comes, the 
Exchange will cause all to put up their fruit honestly, 
according to the brand, and this will cause the buyer to 
prefer the Exchange to buying from outsiders, who have 
no guarantee to their fruit by the Exchange inspectors, 
and this inspection must be a cardinal point in Exchange^ 
law, if it is to go on prospering. A large station is 
an advantage, and Wyoming has this advantage. Her 
growers ought to sell their fruit there, and not ship it, 
and thus draw buyers ; for there is more profit in the 
Exchange than in shipping. I am satisfied that had I 
had my own fruit at Wyoming station this year, and 
sold through the Exchange, instead of shipping, 
as I did, to Philadelphia, Newark, N. J., and New York, 



134 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

I would have cleared at least thirty cents more per 
basket on my fruit than I did clear. This financial 
argument is strong enough for me to wish for the 
advantages of the Delaware Fruit-Exchange. 

There are some things which operate against the 
success of the Exchange, and one is, the interference of 
the local middle-men ; and again, all the farmers not 
selling through the Exchange ; and again, the lacking, 
in some instances, of absolute good faith, or in other 
words, of strict honesty among the growers. 

Use the Exchange, cultivate absolute good faith 
between buyer and seller and between growers ; do 
everything to extend the Exchange to all points on the 
peninsula, and the whole thing will be a graud success, 
morally, physically and financially, and this new system 
of disposing of the products of our orchards, this grand 
purveyor of good faith between the buyer and seller, and 
between man and man, will add thousands of dollars, 
yearly, to the coffers of the good people of the peninsula ; 
will raise a lasting monument to the good and true men 
who conceived it, and will be another round scaled by 
this Heaven-favored region, on the glorious ladder of 
modern progress. 

The fruit not sold at the stations, or wharves, is 
shipped to the great market-centres, Boston, New York, 
Philadelphia and other points, and is sold by commission 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 135 

men by the package. The commission men guarantee to 
return the baskets, report sales daily, and make returns 
weekly, charging about ten per cent, on the gross amount 
of sales. There is some fruit sold to local canners, evapo- 
raters and traders, and by all these means combined is 
the crop disposed of. The best and favorite package is 
the standard | bushel-basket, without top or cover ; 
some of these are covered with muslin for fancy fruit, 
and some have wooden tops, which are rather a new 
idea, and enable the baskets to be packed without danger 
to their contents, and very closely. 

Another package is the crate, of wood, | bushel, 
with two compartments of equal size. These packages 
are used, principally, for the Baltimore market, where 
they are popular for some varieties of peaches. There 
are also small fancy baskets of one gallon, and six quarts, 
each ; these are generally sent packed in a thirty-two 
quart berry-crate, and this holds eight gallon-baskets, 
and six six-quart baskets ; these are only used for extra 
early or fancy fruit. 



Chapter VIII. 



CANNING THE PEACH. 

Hermetically sealing, or as it is now commonly 
called, canning the peach, is a method of preservation 
very largely practised at present on the peninsula, and 
the peach is preserved with all its flavor, and other attri- 
butes wonderfully maintained. At a time when the ripe 
fruit cannot be got, or to those who are never able to 
get it, the canned peach is an admirable substitute. 

There is much history in this word "canning," and 
as Trench would have followed out such a word, we 
might trace in it a good part of the history of fruit-culture 
on the peninsula. The first time I ever saw the process 
was in a frame building on the far side of the canal, in 
St. Georges, more than thirty years ago, where the late 
Dr. John H. Fromberger was engaged in putting up the 
fruit, and for the purpose used glass jars. He succeeded 
admirably in putting on the market a good article, and 
made large shipments to Europe, but his business 
methods proved defective, and he soon abandoned the 
enterprise. 



138 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

I think he obtained his process from the heirs of a 
Mr. Smith, who had, in his life-time, been largely 
engaged in preserving and pickling various fruits and 
vegetables. From that date until the present the busi- 
ness has grown enormously, and some of our enterprising 
peninsula firms have trade-marks, which are worth a 
handsome fortune to their possessors. Glass and tin are 
both used for the package, but tin, in nine cases in ten, is 
the material employed. It appears to me to be a 
perfectly safe and healthy can. The contents are 
hermetically-sealed, all solder is placed on the exterior, 
and on the exterior only, in well regulated establish- 
ments, and there can be no poisonous substance 
developed where there is no oxydation. Where the can 
is air-tight there can be no oxydation, and if the can is 
not air-tight the contents spoil, and are thus rendered 
unfit for food. The question is often asked, how long can 
an article of food remain with safety in a tin receptacle, 
hermetically-sealed, and be safely used for food. I 
answer, one hundred years, if the can will remain intact 
that long. There can be no change in the contents 
without air entering the can, and when air enters the 
can, decomposition takes place, and this we soon find out 
by its physical properties, and would no more eat it 
than we would eat any other spoiled food. Food-sup- 
plies, hermetically-sealed, take no account of time. One 
hundred years to them, is no more than one hundred 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. I39 

days ; no change can go on in them, no fermentation can 
arise, for there can be no proliferation of bacteria, for 
there is no air present, no oxygen for the processes of 
oxydation ; hence there can be no reaction between 
the contents of the can and the tin, and hence, nothing 
injurious to health can be developed in tin recep- 
tacles of this kind, which are absolutely air-tight, and 
soldered entirely on the outside. I admit that glass 
is a more refined and a cleaner material for the packages, 
but the trouble is to hermetically seal it ; it is more 
costly, in the first place, and there is great loss from air 
entering, both in the hands of the producers, the middle 
men, and the consumers. The method of hermetically- 
preserving is simple, and the first requisite is absolute 
cleanliness in every detail of the business. The opera- 
tors, the knives, all the' utensils, the tables, the floors, 
the buildings, the grounds, must be kept scrupulously 
clean ; nothing should be allowed to ferment within a 
mile of a canning establishment. 

The first step is to grade the fruit, then pare it 
and usually cut it in half, although some is canned 
whole. Then the fruit is put in copper-trays, and steamed 
in the steam-box ; this softens and wilts the fruit. 
The next step is to put the fruit into the cans or jars ; 
then pour over the fruit, hot syrup, of the proper density 
for the brand ; eight pounds of sugar to twelve cans is a 
heavy syrup. The cans, when full, weigh, usually, 3 lbs.. 



140 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

and the usual guarantee is 2 lbs. 13 oz. The next step 
is to solder the cans, or stop the glass packages ; the 
next step is stopping the vent, and finally, the recepta- 
cles are put in the bath and boiled. The bath cooks the 
contents to some extent and tests the package. A leak 
causes a bubbling, and those packages are taken out and 
repaired. The next process is labeling, and the last is 
the packing in cases for shipment. They are generally 
divided into white and yellow fruit, by the trade, and, 
as such, are labeled on the packages ; it not being the 
custom to note the variety. 

CONSERVES. 

Peaches make delicious conserves. It is necessary 
to nearly half preserve them with syrup, then dry them 
on dishes, in the sun, covering them to keep off insects, 
and, when thoroughly dry, pack them carefully in pul- 
verized white sugar. They will thus keep for years. 

PEACH LEATHER. 

Pare the peaches and seed them, and pass the pulp 
through a colander ; then spread it thin on smooth boards 
or marble slabs, well greased with pure olive oil. Now 
dry in the sun. Eight hours hot sun will usually cure it. 
Then draw the leather from the board or marble, and cut 
it in shapes to suit ; the best being strips three feet long 
by four inches wide. Sprinkle these strips with white 
pulverized sugar, and roll them up tight. It will keep a 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. I4I 

long time. When finished it is really desiccated peach 
rolled in sugar. 

PRESERVES, PICKLES, MARMALADES, 

and many other good things are made from the peach, 
which are described in most of the works on cooking, to 
which, for information, the reader is referred. 

PEACH-BRANDY. 

A good article of brandy, which has its own pecu- 
liar properties, is made from the peach. Now while any 
brandy in large quantities is bad for a person, peach- 
brandy is said, on account of the prussic acid it contains, 
to be a very dangerous tipple if indulged in freely. For- 
merly, a considerable quantity was manufactured on the 
peninsula, but the stringent excise laws of recent years 
have caused most persons to abandon its manufacture. 
I would say to any friend going down the State as far as 
Georgetown, the fair capital of Sussex County, that a 
gentle whisper into the ear of our worthy Governor 
would produce such a sample of " Peach," as we, in the 
upper part of the State, scarcely wot of, and with the 
addition of a little peninsula honey and pure spring 
water, he would convey to his lips a compound which 
would reach further into the recesses of his inner man, 
than any nectar the Great Jupiter ever sipped. Other- 
wise obtained, I advise mortal man to be chary of this 
beverage. One indulgence is said to make one feel good. 



142 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

The second makes one feel better, and the third makes 
him feel as though he owned the whole Delaware and 
Chesapeake Peninsula. But the next day — the awak- 
ing — ah, the awaking, surely, instead of owning the 
whole Delaware and Chesapeake Peninsula, he finds his 
possessions, (A friend at my elbow suggests, "except 
his head,") shrunken to a size Liliput might spurn. 

EVAPORATING THE PEACH. 

Evaporating, drying, or desiccating the peach is a 
recent introduction and has, in a measure, revolutionized 
the whole business. As there are probably now twenty- 
five or thirty thousand acres of peach trees in bearing, 
and the average yield may, probably, be one hundred 
baskets per acre, per year, we can well see what a boon 
to the growers there must be in any agent which shall 
prove a factor in relieving the market of surplus stock, 
and particularly of those grades of fruit which it does 
not pay to ship. Especially would this be the case with 
a phenomenal crop, when the yield might run up to six 
or eight millions of baskets. It is in these cases that 
the evaporator comes in, and for its introduction the 
fruit growers are under many obligations. The process 
consists in evaporating the moisture of the fruit by con- 
veying it (the fruit) gradually through hot-air chambers, 
it having been prepared and placed on metal trays with 
wire surfaces and iron frames, or on trays with wooden 
frames with wire surfaces. Some of the evaporators are 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. I43 

upright and the trays are raised up and down by an 
endless chain, to give them more or less heat. There 
are also horizontal evaporators, and in these the trays 
are moved by hand, or by a crank arrangement. There 
are also in use evaporators working by super-heated 
steam, supplied from a boiler. In all these machines, 
experience will doubtless suggest many improvements, 
and I look upon this business, as well as the general fruit 
interests on this Peninsula, as, comparatively, in their 
infancy. The great value of this process lies in the fact 
of the remarkable retention, by the fruit, of its original 
flavor and of its bright color and clear condition after 
evaporation. I have no statistics to tell me how much 
fruit has been evaporated on the Peninsula during the last 
two years, but it has, doubtless, amounted to thousands 
and thousands of baskets. The market for the article is 
widening and gradually extending, but yet for universal 
use the price is too high. When we can evaporate, to pay, 
pared peaches at twenty cents per lb. and unpared at 
from ten to twelve cents, and can get a ton of peaches 
with a ton of coal, then we can boom the business, and 
all these good things are surely coming, I hope in the 
very near future. In fact, now, in the well regulated, 
large evaporators, I imagine that they often get one ton 
of evaporated fruit by burning one ton of coal. The 
smaller machines don't do so well in this respect. 

All that I deem necessary, in a work of this nature, 



144 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

is to give a resume oi tlie methods of evaporating, which 
is as follows : The fruit having been brought to the 
"Dry-House" is there given out to the men, women 
and children, who handle it. If for pared fruit it is 
pared either by parers or by hand. The little machines 
work well if the fruit is hard, but are of little use if the 
fruit is soft, when the operator uses a common knife. 
The next movement, after the peach has been pared, is 
to cut it in half and remove the stone ; of course if you 
are working on unpared, this is the first operation. 
After this, the halves are laid close together in a single 
layer on the wire trays. If the fruit is firm, put the stone 
side down, because we want to dry the peach as flat as 
possible, and this is the way the trade likes the fruit. If 
the fruit is soft, you place the stone side up, or the peach 
will stick, and much of its sugar will go off with the 
juices. These are very important points in evaporating 
the peach, and I believe with the stone side up. we get 
more weight, provided we remove the fruit the very 
moment it is done. Now, here is one of the peculiarities 
of the consumers ; they want nice-looking, white fruit, 
and if we dry the fruit at once, it comes out more or less 
of a dark-brown color, but to prevent this the fruit is 
exposed to the fumes of burning sulphur for from two to 
three minutes, in a bleacher, an air-tight box, prepared 
for the purpose ; or in some machines, they merely throw 
a small quantity of sulphur into the furnace and let the 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. I45 

the sulphurous acid gas go through among all the trays. 
This bleaching of the fruit I am not prepared to say- 
renders it unhealthy for food, but it is a great piece of 
foolish vanity and it should be stopped. The trays are 
next placed in the evaporator, and, by different processes 
in different evaporators, are moved up and down, or from 
side to side, in order to get a greater or lesser degree of 
heat. In from sixteen to twenty-four hours all the 
moisture has been driven out and we only have the solids 
left. 

The fruit is better if put in the common peach- 
baskets and set about the building a day or two, free 
from dust and dirt of any kind. It is then packed, 
generally, in twenty-five and fifty-pound boxes, taking 
off the bottom and packing the top first ; and when full, 
submitting to pressure ; then nail on the bottom and on 
opening the top we find it with a beautiful layer 
of smooth fruit, which should be covered with a layer 
of water-proof paper, and over it a sheet of fancy 
stamped paper. The box is then branded with the 
proper brands, which, as known to the trade, are white 
and yellow, and pared and unpared, with any fancy 
brand one may choose to adopt. The better and more 
tastefully the fruit is gotten up, the more ready will be 
its sale. As to the varieties to evaporate. Troth is a 
good peach, and as it comes early, and gives the beauti- 
ful red centres, it should be encouraged by the evapo- 
10 



146 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

rating people. After Troths there is no very good peach 
to evaporate until you come to the Stump the World. Of 
course we do evaporate Early Crawford, Foster^ Old 
Mixon, Moore s, and such varieties, but they contain too 
much water, and don't give the weight necessary for 
good profit. After Stump, all the other peaches are good 
to dry, but the best of all for profit, is Smock. Crawford's 
Late is good, but as it pays so well, generally, to ship, it 
is expensive to evaporate. If you want delicious flavor, 
with all the gustatory attributes of a perfect peach, 
select the Old Mixon for your evaporated fruit, and the 
good housewife is indeed fortunate, who can make it her 
vade mecum. There is more profit, as a rule, in drying 
yellow fruit, because it brings the best prices ; but this 
depends a good deal on the humor of the market, and I 
think that, at present, the white peach is rapidly gaining 
in favor. At the present prices of evaporated fruit, fifty 
cents a basket is a large price to pay for Smocks to dry, 
and for Old Mixons and such, thirty cents is a full price. 
If evaporated fruit will bring, in the wholesale market, 
twenty-five cents per lb., pared, and from thirteen to 
fifteen cents per lb., unpared, you can afford to buy 
orchards to evaporate, at from thirty to thirty-five cents 
per basket, delivered at the station, within a reasonable 
distance of your plant, or at your plant. Smock will 
evaporate, on an average, say, of five seasons, three and 
one-half pounds of pared peaches per basket. They 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. I47 

sometimes run up to five pounds, but for this amount, 
you probably have to squeeze the basket down harder 
than the average grower is accustomed to do. Smock 
unpared, ought to yield from five to five and one-half 
pounds. Stump the World will yield three pounds, 
pared, and four and a-half pounds, unpared. Now take 
all other peaches we evaporate, and no variety will 
probably yield, on an average, over two and three- 
quarter pounds, pared, and from three and a-half to four 
pounds, unpared. As I said before, a ton of good hard 
coal, should make a ton of evaporated fruit, when we 
are using good material in the fruit. I believe every 
grower who has five thousand peach trees, or even half 
this number, with the addition of apple and pear 
orchards, should have an evaporator of, at least, fifty 
baskets capacity, in twenty-four hours. It will save all 
the odds and ends, and such savings in a long life time, 
will be the chief factor in his thrift, that will make him 
rich. As to the capacity of the evaporator, everything 
depends on the surroundings and method of running it ; 
some may turn out their fruit several hours short of 
others, but better management and better coal, will 
help amazingly the first one out. I believe the average 
evaporator, as it is usually managed and run on the 
peninsula, will dry, the season through, every twenty- 
four hours, just what its trays will hold, and this is a safe 
estimate to calculate on, when you are purchasing a 
machine. 



148 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

SUN-DRIED FRUIT. 

This has been driven out almost entirely by the 
evaporated fruit, but for sun-drying, it is pared or not, as 
you choose, then quartered, usually, and spread on roofs 
or boards, or on any convenient substance, covered with 
netting to keep off insects, removed under shelter in 
case of rain, and left in the sun until cured ; the time 
depending much on the weather. 

I have made some calculation in regard to what 
might be the average cost to the grower of a basket of 
peaches grown on the Peninsula, and delivered at the rail- 
road station or steamboat-landing. I have considered 
the interest on investments in land, the trees, the loss of 
time before bearing, the labor, the packing, and all losses 
by elements, etc., with a complete loss of crop once in 
seven years, and I think the cost will run from twenty- 
five to thirty cents per basket. 



Since writing the chapter in this book on the fer- 
tilization of peach orchards, I have visited the peach 
country, and talked and consulted with many of the 
most intelligent growers, have studied the question 
practically, myself, and as a result, have formulated the 
following rules for fertilizing the Peach tree. In apply- 
ing these rules, study every individual tree, and apply 
them to it, and next, in general to the whole orchard. 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. I49 

RULES FOR FERTILIZING THE PEACH TREE. 
Rule I. Should new shoots, at the end of the grow- 
ing season, show a length of twelve inches in the longest 
shoots, of eight inches in the medium length shoots, and 
of four inches in the shortest shoots, giving a general 
average of eight inches for the new wood of the season, 
that tree will need no fertilizer to mature the next crop 
of fruit, if right in all other ways. 

Rule IL Should the new shoots, at the end of the 
growing season, show a length of ten inches in the 
longest shoots, of five inches in the medium-length 
shoots, and of three inches in the short shoots, giving a 
general average of six inches for the new wood of the 
season, that tree needs potash, and with it the chlorine 
it gets from the kainit or muriate, especially if the leaves 
are not green and healthy. 

Rule III. Should the new shoots, at the end of 
the growing season, show a length of eight inches in 
the longest shoots, of four inches in the medium-length 
shoots, and of three inches in the short shoots, giving a 
general average of five inches for the new wood of the 
season, that tree needs potash, phosphoric acid and 
ammonia, to mature a crop of fruit for the next season. 

Rule IV. Should the new shoots, at the end of 
the growing season, show a length of four inches in the 
longest shoots, of three inches in the medium-length 



150 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

shoots, and of two inches in the short shoots, giving a 
general average of three inches only for the growth of 
wood of the previous season, that tree needs potash, 
phosphoric acid and ammonia, extra culture and 
worming, the middles well cut out, and all the bearing 
wood cut back one-half. Also give the tree a moderate 
dose of iron by the methods given in the chapter on 
fertilization. This may save it and give a crop of good 
fruit. 

Rule V. Examine every tree in your orchard as 
soon after ploughing in the spring as possible, and apply 
the rules as given. 

PLANS OF PEACH ORCHARDS. 

As I have said in the previous pages. Peach trees 
on the Peninsula should be set from eighteen to twenty 
feet apart, but if I was planting an apple-orchard, I 
would put the apples forty feet apart, and plant a Peach 
tree between each, and one in the middle of every four 
apple trees. 

I have done this in Kent County, Maryland, and 
the plan has given satisfaction. The first two years I 
raised a crop of corn, and after that the peaches paid 
until the apples commenced to bear, and now, thirteen 
years since planting, both apples and peaches are bear- 
ing good crops, and both are doing well. As to the 
methods of planting peaches, such as planting them 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. I5I 

forty to eighty feet apart each way, and then tilling the 
field in grain crops, I don't recommend any such 
method. Peach trees may be planted on head-rows, in 
lanes, on lawns and such places, but they don't do well, 
because they cannot, from the nature of their surround- 
ings, get proper tillage. 

RANDOLPH PETERS' TREE WASH. 
Take lime, slack it and prepare, as for ordinary 
white-wash, in an old barrel. Take sufficient at a time 
to make a bucket two-thirds full, of proper consistence 
for white-wash. Add to this, one pint of gas-tar, one 
pound of whale-oil soap, dissolved in hot water ; or one 
pound of potash, or one pint of common soft-soap, or one 
pint of strong lye, from wood-ashes, or from concentrated 
lye ; then add clay or loam sufficient to make a 
bucketful of the wash of proper consistence to be 
applied with a white-wash brush. Clear away the 
dirt from the tree and apply with a brush, from the 
limbs of the tree down to the roots. It will destroy 
the bark-louse and all scale-insects and will give 
the trees a bright, clean, healthy appearance. It will 
drive out all borers, and moth will not deposit eggs on 
or about the tree the same season the wash has been 
applied. Rabbits and mice will not touch the trees 
where this wash has been used. Apply it in May for 
borers, and for the general benefit of the trees, and late 
in the autumn, as a preventive against rabbits and 
mice. Don't use gas-tar, pure, on trees; it will kill them. 



152 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

The late Randolph Peters was always very enthusi- 
astic in recommending this wash to me, and with an 
endorser of so much experience, I have no hesitation in 
recommending it to my readers. 



Chapter IX. 



In order to get the opinions of growers on many 
points in the peach business, I formulated the following 
fifteen questions, and sent copies to many of the most 
prominent and intelligent growers on the peninsula. 

The information I obtained is interesting and valua- 
ble, and I propose to give the answers of each grower, 
in detail. 

QUESTIONS. 

(i.) Give the best list for profit of an orchard of one 
thousand peach trees ior the Delaware and Maryland 
Peninsula ? 

(2.) What is the best soil for a peach orchard, also 
the best situation as to shelter, hill, valley, etc. .■* 

(3.) What is the average life of a Peninsula peach 
orchard as generally cared for ? 

(4.) Between what points, north and south, does 
the peninsula peach-belt now extend ? 

(5.) When, in your opinion, is the peach crop most 
frequently and seriously injured ; in the fall, winter or 
spring ? 



154 'I'HE CULTIVATION OF THE 

(6.) How low a temperature is fatal to the bud or 
new wood ? 

(7.) After the buds^begin to burst into blossoms, 
until the peach is formedfandfthe blossoms have dropped, 
at what point here is the peach most frequently 
destroyed by low temperature ? 

(8.) Do you plough^your orchard as soon as frost 
will permit in the spring, or later ? How deep do you 
plough, and what is your^method of cultivation after one 
ploughing ? 

(9.) What fertilizers do you use, and when, and 
how, and in what quantityTdo you apply them ? 

(10.) When, and how, do you prune the trees ; and 
do you ever hand-thin the fruit ? If so, what result ? 

(11.) Do you believe 'there is such a disease as 
" Yellows ?" If so, what is your opinion (briefly) of the 
cause, and best treatment ? Do you worm your trees ? 
If so, when and how ? 

(12.) Do you prefer your" young trees grown from 
the seed of natural, or'budded fruit ? 

(13.) Has the Curculio proved a serious enemy to 
the peach on the Peninsula ? 

(14.) Do you see any curled leaf? If so, in what 
soil does it occur most ? 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 1 55 

(15.) Give your ideas of the best way for our 
growers to market their fruit, and the best packages, etc., 
to use, (briefly.) 

ANSWERS RECEIVED FROM GROWER, NO. I. 

Question i. St. John, Mountain Rose, Reeves' 
Favorite, Moore's Favorite. President, Stump the World, 
Crawford's Late, Prize, Beef's Smock. 

Question 2. Medium light loam soil, as near level 
as good drainage will allow. I prefer northern ex- 
posure. 

Question 3. With fair treatment, fifteen to eigh- 
teen years. 

Question 4. Kirkwood and Cape Charles. 

Question 5. In the spring. 

Question 6. I think ten below zero will always kill 
in this climate. 

Question 7. Most frequently in from one to five 
days, but I believe they were killed this year, (1885,) in 
this county (New Castle) more than a fortnight after 
opening, by cold rains, which caused the shedding 
blossom to lie close around the stem end of the peach, 
and be wet for some time, caused the peach to rot. 

Question 8. I plough as early in the spring as the 
ground will permit ; about four inches, and work enough 
to keep the ground clean and mellow, until about the 
last of June. 



156 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

Question 9. I apply about four hundred pounds of 
Kainit, and South Carolina Rock, mixed in equal quanti- 
ties, either broadcast by hand, or with the drill. 

Question 10. Prune as soon after picking the fruit 
as practicable, take out the dead wood, and open the 
centre of the trees, so as to give the fruit plenty of air 
and sun. I have never hand-thinned the fruit. 

Question 11. I have grave doubts about there 
being any such disease as the Yellows. I incline to the 
theory, that sick trees are caused by the lack of some 
necessary ingredient in the soil. June and July are the 
months to worm in. 

Question 12. From natural seed by all means. 

Question 13. I am not able to state positively, but 
think they hurt us badly some seasons. 

Question 14. I see more curled leaf some seasons 
than others, and incline to the opinion that the weather 
has more to do with it than the soil. 

Question 15. The best way to market the fruit, is 
to sell it to the best buyer that can be found at the 
nearest station or landing, and I believe, that if growers 
all over the peninsula, would bind themselves never to 
ship one basket on their own account, that they would 
realize, at least, twenty-five per cent, more for their 
peaches. The five-eighth bushel basket is certainly the 
best package in which to ship the fruit. 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 1 57 

ANSWERS RECEIVED FROM GROWER, NO. 2. 

Question i. If on the lower peninsula, I would 
plant a large portion of early fruit ; for central and 
northern section of peach district, I would plant varieties 
running through the season, with large proportion of 
large varieties, as Reeves', Moore's, Crawford's Late, 
Prize, etc. If near a well established cannery, I would 
plant varieties that are desirable for canning. 

Question 2. My experience has been, that a light 
soil is preferable to heavy. I have not been able to 
decide as to the best situation as to shelter, hill, valley, 
etc. 

Question 3. Have seen trees twenty-five years old 
bearing full, and have seen some varieties on good soil, 
exhausted after bearing ten years. 

Question 4. No answer. 

Question 5. The failures in my orchard, I believe, 
have been caused by cold weather in spring, often when 
in bloom. 

Question 6. No answer. 

Question 7. No answer. 

Question 8. I had Hale's Early trees ploughed in 
fall ; other varieties in spring — as late as June. 

Question 9. Have tried several varieties but don't 
know what it best. Have sought fertilizers with a good 
deal of Potash. 



158 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

Question 10. Pruned during winter. Never hand- 
thinned. 

Question ir. Believe there is a disease which is 
called the " Yellows." Have always removed the trees 
as soon as the disease showed on them. 

Question 12. No answer. 

Question 13. No answer. 

Question 14. No answer. 

Question 15. Sell at your shipping station if possi- 
ble. The basket, and that the |, or standard, I have 
found the best package. 

ANSWERS RECEIVED FROM GROWER, NO. 3. 

Question i. Troth's Early, Mountain Rose, Craw- 
ford's Early, Foster, Reeves' Favorite, Old Mixon, 
Moore's Favorite, Stump the World, Crawford's Late, 
Variegated Free, Fox's Seedling, Shipley's Late Red, 
Beer's Smock, Heath Cling, Salway. There are many 
new varieties which I have not tested. 

Question 2. A nice mixture of sand and clay, not 
too much of either. There should be a dry sub-soil. 
No shelter of any kind, as it makes them blossom too 
soon. A dry, level, rather light soil, without hill or 
valley, is best, but a rolling piece of land has done well 
for me. 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 1 59 

Question 3. Twelve or fifteen years ; but I have an 
orchard planted in 1855,(30 years ago,) the peaches from 
which averaged 81 cents at Wyoming this year. 

Question 4. Between Clayton and Laurel prin- 
cipally. 

Question 5. The crop is mostly injured by spring 
frost, but a very cold winter alone, wipes out the whole 
crop. 

Question 6. Any temperature below zero. 

Question 7. Most frequently while in blossom and 
before the leaves have formed. The leaves on are a pro- 
tection from frost. 

Question 8. I begin as soon as the ground is in 
order and keep the ground constantly stirred with large 
cultivators (3 horse) until the fruit brings down the 
limbs in the way of the teams. Some say the later the 
orchard is ploughed the better it is for the fruit. \ 
plough very shallow. If we have heavy rains to pack 
the ground, I use the plough alone to stir with. 

Question 9. I have used all kinds of fertilizers with 
out any results satisfactory to myself. Kainit and bone- 
meal is mostly preferred by me. 

Question 10. I start my young trees branching from 
the ground. After that I take out the dead wood only. 
I have clipped off half the fruit and found the thinning 
was of no advantage, very much to my surprise. 



l60 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

Question ii. Much to my sorrow, I do. Various 
causes are given but the disease is not understood, and of 
course the treatment is altogether empirical. The best 
thing is to dig them up as soon as you see any evidence 
of the disease. I worm my trees in the fall by removing 
the dirt from around the tree and searching for the worm 
with an oyster-knife. 

Question 12. From the natural seed. 

Question 13. It has. I can count my own 
individual loss in peaches alone, at $30,000, at least, to 
which may be added, early apples, pears and other fruit. 
When the crop of peaches is small, the curculio generally 
takes all of it. 

Question 14. I have never paid any attention to 
the curled leaf 

Question 15. Decidedly the best and only way to 
market our fruit is to bring the buyers right here to our 
own doors. They buy our fruit, and pay for it, from the 
wagon. We put it in the cars and are then done with 
it, and thus avoid all risk from decay, accident or falling 
market. These men pay us as much here, as our fruit 
sells for in the Northern cities, and they tell us that they 
are perfectly willing to do so, as they get it fresh, and 
save the trouble and expense of re-handling it. When- 
ever they wish it, a sworn inspector examines every 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. l6l 

load they buy, and the fruit can be stored away in 
the cars at cost, for them. My best varieties bore no 
fruit this year, but notwithstanding this, my orchard 
near Dover, averaged 80 cents per basket, and my old 
orchard, planted 30 years ago, averaged 8o| cents. I 
hauled mine to Wyoming this year, as our crop around 
Dover was almost a complete failure. I should think 
that the Murderkill orchards averaged their owners 
more than one dollar per basket. Two brothers applied 
to bank yesterday, for money to aid them in planting 
200 acres. The best package is the basket. 

ANSWERS RECEIVED FROM GROWER, NO. 4. 

Question i. 50 Alexander, 50 Troths, 50 Early 
York, 150 Reeves Favorite, 50 Moore, (or Mixon,) 150 
Early Crawford, 150 Stump the World, 50 Crawford's 
Late, 50 Variegated Free, 50 Shipley's Late Red, 50 
Beer's Smock, 50 Heath. 50 St. John, 50 Susquehanna. 

Question 2. A poor gravelly soil of rolling land 
will mature trees sooner, give earlier fruit, color better, 
but dies out sooner. 

Question 3. Twelve years. 

Question 4. From Middletown to Woodside, from 
bay to bay. 
II 



l62 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

Question 5. When early frost ripens the foliage, I 
think the bud or germs are injured ; when foliage ripens 
and falls after the bud is matured, there is no danger of 
fall injury. Peaches are seldom killed in winter or 
spring ; more often in fall. 

Question 6. Six degrees above zero is a danger 
point, below that, unless very dry, fatal. 

Question 7. At the time the young peaches shed 
the bloom or cap formed by the blossom, it is very 
tender, and a light frost may, at that period, be fatal. 
We have two " Sheds," the first, when the tree has 
formed all the buds. The second or "June shed," is 
when the stone is formed and hardening. Then the 
tree casts all it cannot mature. 

Question 8. Peach orchards should be ploughed 
very early, as the fibrous roots are more or less injured 
by the plough. I would plough 8 inches deep in the 
middle, and shoal with a single plough up to the trees. 
Then keep orchard clean with an orchard cultivator. 

Question 9. Leached wood-ashes, at any price, are 
the very best fertilizer. A barn shovel-full about the 
crown of each tree. 

Question 10. A good time as any is to prune as 
you pick the fruit. Cut out everything if dead, although 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 163 

not larger than a knitting needle, In small orchards, 
hand-pruning might do, but, generally, nature's way is 
best. 

Question 11. Yes sir, and it is contagious. Its 
appearance on a small twig, even, calls for heroic treat- 
ment by a prompt amputation. Wood-ashes about the 
crown of the tree will restore the tree, if applied 
liberally, and every year. 

Question 12. From natural, healthy seed. The 
early decay of present orchards is due to the germ being 
diseased. 

Question 13. In some orchards, in some seasons, it 
has ; but in orchards where high cultivation has given 
vitality to the trees, the deposit of the q%^ does not 
seem as easy of accomplishment. It is always the poor 
horse that dies of Botts. 

Question 14. No answer. 

Question 15. Sell at the nearest railroad station 
or steamboat landing. Use the western package ; they 
are always clean, and more pleasing to the eye of the 
buyer on a hot morning, than fruit in a package on 
which fowls have been roosting all winter. I tried for 
years, during my connection with the P., W. & B. R. R., 
to get the company to introduce this cheap package, 
and abandon the return of empties, without success. If 
fruit growers would adopt this package, they could 



164 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

demand less rates of freight, as the returns cost more 
than to haul the fruit to market, as you have, doubtless, 
seen at New Castle yard in fruit season, when James 
Wise and his gang were assorting fruit packages. 

ANSWERS RECEIVED FROM GROWER, NO. 5. 

Question i. Alexander, Early Rivers, Mountain 
Rose, Crawford's Early, Reeves' Favorite, Old Mixon, 
Stump the World, Crawford's Late, Steven's Late Rare- 
Ripe, and Smock Free. 

Question 2. Light, sandy soil with cla^ sub-soil, 
without protection from hill or valley. 

Question 3. Twenty-five years. 

Question 4. From Massey's X Roads in Kent, Co., 
Md.. to Crisfield, Md. 

Question 5. In my judgment in the spring. 

Question 6. Five degrees below zero. 

Question 7. In the month of May, about the time 
the bud opens, if a heavy frost should come. 

Question 8. I plough in the month of March, as 
soon as the frost will permit. Let the orchard remain 
until the grass begins to grow, then harrow the ground 
with a spike-harrow. Plough not more than three inches 
deep. 

Question 9. We use Kainit in the month of March, 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 165 

before ploughing, and about five hundred^^pounds to the 
acre ; spread it broadcast under the trees. 

Question 10. Prune in the spring with a hand saw ; 
have never tried thinning out_fruit. 

Question 11. There is certainly Yellows. I think is 
produced by planting the seed from budded trees. I 
very seldom worm a tree. Gas lime is a sovereign 
remedy. 

Question 12. By all means from natural seed. A 
healthy bud from a natural seed, will produce a healthy 
tree. 

Question 13. I do not think the curcurlio has ever 
troubled us much on the peninsula ; our great trouble 
has been in nurserymen growing trees from budded 
seed, producing disease and short life. 

Question 14. The curled leaf occurs, generally, on 
stiff, heavy land. 

Question 15. I find the best way to market my 
fruit, is by rail, and to ship in five gallon baskets. 

ANSWERS RECEIVED FROM GROWER, NO. 6. 

Question i. I should vary the list in accordance 
with the distance down the peninsula. For this neigh- 
borhood, or about Middletown, I would plant Mountain 
Rose, Crawford Early, or Mary's Choice, Old Mixon, 
Moore's Favorite, Reeves' Favorite, Stump the World, 



l66 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

Crawford's Late, (Strong,) and Smock. These would be 
my general orchard. I might try a few of some of the 
new varieties. 

Question 2. A light, sandy soil, not too sandy or 
low, with red clay sub-soil. An open exposure we think 
as good as any. Peaches color at Bridgeville, Sussex 
county, as well, if not better, than any station I know 
of. The land there is a light, sandy soil, with a mixture 
of clay and sand, for sub-soil. 

Question 3. I know of an orchard without any 
extra care at Bridgeville, planted in i860, and still bears 
some fruit. 

Question 4. Commences at Clayton station, Dela- 
ware Railroad, and runs down as far as trees are planted, 
probably as far south as Salisbury, is at present the 
Peach Belt. 

Question 5. Generally in the spring. 

Question 6. From 2 to 4 below zero. 

Question 7. About the time, or just before, shed- 
ding the bloom ; the young peach is very tender at this 
stage. 

Question 8. In this neigborhood we used to 
ploug^h twice, early in spring, and again the last of May 
or first of June, say three to four inches. We ploughed 
from the trees the first ploughing, and to them the second, 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 167 

and then worked them with the harrow. Many persons 
only ploughed once and then worked with cultivator. 

Question 9. The best fertilizer we ever used was 
barn-yard manure. Ten years ago the trees seemed to 
grow well enough and produce without any fertilizer. 
Kainit is used by many with success. 

Question 10. We generally trim in spring with 
saws. Never hand-thinned any. 

Question 11. I think there is such a thing as 
yellows. The best treatment is to dig up the diseased 
trees, although there are parties here who claim that 
they cured such trees by the use of Kainit. We, for- 
merly, wormed trees in fall and left a portion of the 
tree below the surface of ground exposed through the 
winter. We have long since abandoned worming. 

Question 12. Most undoubtedly, natural seed all 
the time, and no other. 

Question 13. The curculio only proves a serious 
enemy when peaches are scarce on the trees. 

Question 14. We have often seen curled leaf but 
only after a frost. I do not think this is confined to any 
particular soil. We have often seen what we term Pin- 
oak leaves, but this is confined to stiff, clayey soil. 

Question 15. I think, to ship in a | basket is the 
best package to ship in, as peaches, as a rule, will bring 



l68 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

more in baskets than in crates. This season has con- 
vinced me that the best mode to dispose of peaches is 
to bring the buyers to the station and sell them by the 
load, according to quality, as was done at Wyoming, this 
season. 

ANSWERS RECEIVED FROM GROWER, NO. J. 
Question i. Troth, Mountain Rose, Foster, Craw- 
ford's Early, Reeves Favorite, Mixon, Crawford's Late, 
Smock, Fox's Seedling, Salway. 

Question 2. Fine, sandy soil, with clay sub-soil. 

Question 3. As generally treated, 10 years. Well 
cared for, 20 years or more. 

Question 4. Lower Kent, north and western Sussex 
and adjoining Maryland. 

Question 5. Danger any time below zero, or in 
spring a much lighter temperature will destroy ; even a 
heavy frost, when too early bloom. 

Question 6. We have had good crops at 4 degrees 
below zero. 

Question 7. Just as petal is forming. 

Question 8. As soon as vegetation starts, 2\ to 3 
inches, Till as corn. 

Question 9, Potash, (Kainit) 400 to 600 lbs. to acre, 
sometimes equal quantities of Kainit and Rock. In 
mid-winter or early spring. 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 169 

Question 10. Early spring or early summer. In one 
instance two trees were trimmed or pruned in October, 
two in February and two in June, trees all alike. Feb- 
ruary and June did best. Two trees were hand-thinned, 
others by their side not hand-thinned. The hand-thinned 
did well, good fruit, others poor fruit and died out 
badly. 

Question 11. No yellow about here. Worm April, 
May and June. 

Question 12. Natural. 

Question 13. IJ^To. 

Question 14. Yes — stiff or clayey. 

Question 15. Good fruit in baskets, ordinary in 
crates. 

ANSWERS RECEIVED FROM GROWER, NO. 8. 

Question i. Mountain Rose, St. John, Reeves'. 
Foster, Old Mixon, Stump the World, Crawford's Late, 
Geary's Hold On, Smock with Ward's or Shipley's Late. 

Question 2. Sandy loam with clay subsoil. Red 
clay preferable. Location should be where temperature 
is as near equable as possible. 

Question 3. From twenty to twenty-five years. 

Question 4. From Townsend to Delmar. 

Question 5. If the fall has been favorable for 



I/O THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

maturing new wood, it will stand much more cold than 
otherwise, and I am of the opinion that the certainty of 
a crop depends largely upon the condition of the tree at 
the beginning of winter. 

Question 6. Zero and below. 

Question 7. When the bud first opens and the 
tender peach-germ protrudes. 

Question 8. I do not plough until the trees are in 
bloom and then cultivate with ordinary corn-cultivator 
till fruit is ripe ; I plough about two inches. 

Question 9. I always spread broad-cast in the 
spring. I use potash in the most available form, i. e. 
kainit for bearing trees and four or five hundred pounds 
to the acre, and Lingo's Fish manure for young trees, 
three to four hundred pounds per acre. 

Question 10. I prune young trees in the spring and 
old trees when I have finished gathering the fruit. I 
never hand-thin. 

Question 11. I don't know anything about "yel- 
lows." I always worm and when it is most convenient. 
Have just finished for the season. (Oct., 1885.) 

Question 12. From natural fruit. 

Question 13. I don't think so. 

Question 14. Very little here, but where seen 
generally, in a very heavy soil. 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. I/I 

Question 15. The best way to market our fruit is 
to encourage the buyers to come here, and the best 
package is the f splint basket. 

ANSWERS RECEIVED FROM GROWER, NO. 9. 

Question i. 25 Early Rivers, 25 Troths, 25 Foster, 
25 St. John, 50 Crawford's Early, 100 Old Mixon, 50 
Moore's Favorite, 100 Stump, 25 Christiana No. 2, 25 
Crawford's Late, 25 Shipley's Late Red. 25 Geary's, 25 
Wilkins' Cling, 75 Magnum Bonum, 100 Brown's Choice, 
a new variety that comes later than Moore's Favorite, 
and is the finest and best shipper of the white fruit, and 
among the most profitable of any grown on my farms. 

Question 2. A sandy loam, an open sub-soil, and 
should be 15 to 30 ft. to water. The best situation is 
an elevated piece of ground without any protection. 
Valleys and a northwestern protection are not suitable. 

Question 3. From ten to fifteen years, all conditions 
right ; with proper care, will live from 30 to 50 years. 

Question 4. Between Smyrna and Felton, across 
the Peninsula. 

Question 5. Spring. 

Question 6. 10 degrees below zero. 

Question 7. When the blossom first opens ; the crop 
is more frequently injured by rain than frost. At this 
stage a northeaster will generally ruin the crop. 



172 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

Question 8. No, I don't plough till first of May; 8 
inches. The first week after ploughing I cross with a 
harrow and work once a week up until middle July with 
an A-iron Harrow with nine flooks in (such as we use to 
harrow corn.) 

Question 9. A mixture of Bone, Muriate of Potash, 
and Kainit, about 600 lbs. to an acre either fall orjspring. 
If land is poor and trees dont make growth enough, it 
would be well to apply both fall and spring. When 
land is good and adapted to peaches, it does not require 
fertilizing, as I have grown 15 crops in 16 years on such 
an orchard. The soil is especially adapted to peaches. 
Soil open and 30 feet to water. 

Question 10. After planting young trees, June 
budded I prefer, I trim to one bud. 2nd year I trim up 
and cut off at 30 inches. 3d and 4th years, if trees make 
a vigorous growth it is best to prune but little. 5th 
year I shape the head, after this they want very little 
pruning except to take out dead wood and an occasional 
scattering branch, etc. If trees are overloaded, cultivate 
more. About ist of July a dressing of bone at this 
stage would benefit. 

Question 11. This is a disputed question. My 
opinion is that most of it comes from neglect and bad 
judgment in selecting land for an orchard. On good 
land and treated as heretofore given, an orchard will be 
exempt from yellows. Yes ; when it becomes necessary. 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. I73 

Question \2. I prefer to breed forward not back- 
ward, and cant see why Peach trees should be different 
from nature in any other form, animal or vegetable. 

Question 13. No. Where proper cultivation and a 
good wash is used the Curcurlio is harmless. 

Question 14. In soil that is over-limed. 

Question 15. The best way to market our fruit is to 
mass it and sell at public auction. The § basket is the 
the best package for peaches, in my opinion. 

ANSWERS RECEIVED FROM GROWER, NO lO. 

Question i. Troths, Mountain Rose, Crawford's 
Early, Reeds Golden Yellow, Moore's Favorite, Stump 
the World, Old Mixon, Reeves Favorite, Crawford's Late 
Beer's Smock. 

Question 2. High, flat ground, red clay gravelly soil. 

Question 3. 12 years, but well cared for, 20 years. 

Question 4. Duck creek or Sassafras River on 
north, and bay or ocean on south. 

Question 5. Spring. 

Question 6. Eight to ten below zero. 

Question 7. When the blossom is full. 

Question 8. Yes, 2 to 3 inches, work afterward with 
a cultivator three or four times. 



171- THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

Question 9. Kainit and South Carolina Rock, equal 
parts, 600 lbs. per acre ploughed or drilled in in the 
spring ; this is for old trees in bearing. In raising an 
orchard ashes and good composted manure. 

Question 10. Spring or fall. Saw or shears ; never 
hand-thin. 

Question 11. Yes, cause unknown ; Kainit and Rock. 
Dont worm. 

Question 12. Natural. 

Question 13. No. 

Question 14. It is more in the variety than soil; 
principally, Ward's Late. 

Question 15. Peach Baskets. When I dont sell at 
home I send to a commission merchant. There are 
many ways of disposing of them, but good, fine fruit I 
should prefer to ship. 

ANSWERS RECEIVED FROM GROWER, NO. II. 

Question i. No answer. 

Question 2. Light soil, shghtly rolling. 

Question 3. Twenty-five to thirty years. 

Question 4. Middle N. C. County to Seaford. 

Question 5. In the spring. 

Question 6. About 10 degrees below zero. 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. I75 

Question 7. Immediately before full bloom. 

Question 8. Just after corn planting and very deep, 
and follow the round of cultivation after each corn 
tilling. 

Question 9. Rock |, Bone Meal ^, 300 to 400 
pounds to acre, ploughed in, in spring. Hog pen 
manure as a winter dressing around trees, not too close 
to body. 

Question 10. Late in the winter, or very early in 
spring, so that the cut may heal speedily. 

Question 11. There seems to be, don't know cause, 
best remedy attention and cultivation. If trees are kept 
clean for five or six years, worms will, perhaps, do little 
damage. If not, worm carefully in July or August, by 
hand. For young trees, take earth away in July or 
August, and carefully clean the body to the roots, with 
cloth. 

Question 12. Natural. 

Question 13. Not to occasion any alarm. 

Question 14. Yes, mostly on springy land. 

Question 15. No answer. 

ANSWERS RECEIVED FROM GROWER, NO. 12. 

Question i. Mountain Rose, Foster, Reeves, 
Moore's Favorite, Old Mixon, Stump, Crawford Late, 
Variegated Free, Prize, Smock. 



176 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

Question 2. Clay loam. Any soil which will grow 
good crop of wheat, corn and clover. High land near 
water is the most certain for crops, particularly if the 
expanse of water is great. Peninsulas often have crops 
when other localities fail. 

Question 3. Twelve years. 

Question 4. Trees are now bearing, planted as far 
north as Chesapeake City. 

Question 5. Spring. 

Question 6. No answer. 

Question 7. Cannot answer intelligently. 

Question 8. Plough as soon as land is in good con- 
dition in the spring, harrow and cultivate the same as a 
crop of corn. 

Question 9. We are just beginning the use of fertil- 
izers ; expect to apply about 300 lbs. per acre, and to 
drill it after orchard has been ploughed and harrrowed. 

Question 10. Prefer to trim as fast as fruit is 
picked ; never have known any one to hand -thin their 
fruit. 

Question 11. Believe trees turn yellow when 
declining, from any cause ; generally from worms about 
the roots ; frequently from soil not suiting the trees ; 
when from worms, worming will sometimes do good. 
We used to worm every year, and it is again becoming 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 177 

the custom. Remove glue and diseased bark. Generally 
worm in spring. 

Question 12. Always try to get trees grown from 
natural seed. Many reliable nurserymen say it makes 
no difference. 

Question 13. It has. 

Question 14. Have not. 

Question 15. My land being on water or branch 
railroads, I think it best for grower to sell fruit at so 
much per basket, for all he grows. If I ship, I prefer the 
usual size basket. 

ANSWERS FROM GROWER NO. I3. 

Question i. I am not, and have not, lately, been 
largely enough in the peach-culture to answer the 
questions. I am not acquainted with the new varieties. 

Question 2. The best soil, in my opinion, is a sandy 
loam, with yellow clay sub-soil. The best situation, is 
the highest, and most exposed land you have. 

Question 3. From ten to fifteen years, according to 
soil and care. 

Question 4. Not posted. 

Question 5. Occasionally in the winter, mostly in 
the spring. 



178 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

Question 6. Six to ten below zero. 

Question 7. About the time the blossoms burst, and 
leave the young peach. I have seen them entirely 
destroyed at that time, and often very much injured. 

Question 8. I plough as soon as the absence of 
frost, and the condition of the ground will permit, about 
four inches. Do most of the work afterward with the 
harrow and cultivator, unless the ground runs together 
very solid, then plough with a two-furrowed plough. 

Question 9. None. My trees make too much wood 
on my land without them. I believe that is one reason 
why my land is very uncertain on peaches. 

Question 10. I prune mostly in the spring, keep all 
dead wood removed, and middle of trees open. I never 
hand-thinned fruit. 

Question 11. I do believe there is such a disease. 
My opinion is that it is caused, or produced, by our 
nurserymen, by breeding in and in, (as we say by stock,) 
taking seed from the orchard, and buds from the same ; 
that is budding on budded fruit-seed. Do not worm. 
Worms never haunt our trees. 

Question 12. Natural. 

Question 13. I do not know that it has. 

Question 14. I do ; cannot say in what soil it occurs 
most, but can say this, that I have never seen any in our 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. I79 

locality, except when caused by frost. Leaves curl most, 
when fruit is hurt most. 

Question 15. If you mean by the best way, the best 
way to handle it, I would say of a crop, ship only best, 
and let the rest go to the ground, if you are not fixed to 
handle them some other way, such as evaporating or 
drying. On a crop that will bring good prices all the 
way through, then make three kinds ; extra, plain, and 
culls ; and if you can sell your culls at home, do that ; 
never put them on the market, if you can utilize them 
any other way. The best package is, I think, a nice, 
clean basket. 

ANSWERS RECEIVED FROM GROWER, NO. I4. 

Question i. Mountain Rose, Crawford's Early, 
Reeves', Moore's Favorite, Stump the World, Crawford's 
Late, Shipley's Late Red, Wilkins' Cling. 

Question 2. A sandy soil, level land, and no shelter, 
is preferable. 

Question 3. Ten years. 

Question 4. From Smyrna to Seaford. 

Question 5. In the spring, after the buds begin to 
open with cold and frosty weather ; also wet weather 
will cause them to drop. 

Question 6. Zero. 

Question 7. No answer. 



l80 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

Question 8. Plough to the depth of 3 or 4 inches, 
about the last of April, with the ground in good order, 
and drag-harrow each way ; then cultivate two or three 
times by the 20th of June, and keep all grass from trees. 

Question 9. Not any the first year, after that 
about a quart of wood-ashes or Kainit sprinkled around 
each tree in the fall of the year. Manure is good, broad- 
cast, in absence of the above, being careful to not put 
around the trunk of the trees for fear of mice or worms. 

Question 11. What some people call yellows, is 
only caused by neglect or unsuitable soil. Worm the 
trees in the fall by clearing away the dirt, first, and, 
taking a sharp pointed knife, scrape all the glue off and 
then can be seen where the worm enters the bark, then 
follow the track until it is seen. 

Question 12. From natural fruit, and bud then from 
healthy fruiting trees. 

Question 13. In some localities, especially heavy 
improved soil, it has. 

Question 14. Curled leaf is generally seen in damp, 
springy soil. 

Question 15. No answer. Are natural trees ever 
affected with yellows ? As apt to be as any other. 

ANSWERS RECEIVED FROM GROWER, NO. 1 5. 
Question i. Mountain Rose, Old Mixon, Stump 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. l8l 

the World, Fox's Seedling, Wilkins' Cling-, Crawford's 
Early, Crawford's Late, Smock and Beer's Smock. Do 
not know enough about new varieties to give an opinion. 

Question 2. A level field, light, sandy land, well 
improved. In a low, rich place, trees go too much to 
wood and are apt to shed their fruit. 

Question 3. Fifteen to twenty years, although I 
know an orchard thirty years old that was full this 
year. 

Question 4. From Clayton to Seaford, best. 

Question 5. Nine times out of ten in spring, when 
in bloom or after. 

Question 6. All depends upon how the trees bore 
the previous year. 

Question 7. Cannot say. 

Question 8. We plough as soon as convenient in 
the spring. We plough shallow and then run peach 
cultivator through several times until August ist, then 
stop. 

Question 9. Kainit 5C0 lbs. to acre, broadcast, is 
good ; but 200 lbs. Muriate Potash and 200 ground bone 
is better ; and 12 loads barn-yard manure, to acre, every 
year, is best. 

Question 10. Prune in spring when we can see 
dead wood. We never hand-thin fruit. 



l82 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

Question ii. I believe in yellows. When we see 
it, we cut tree down and burn it. 

Question 12. Natural seed is best. 

Question 13. Yes. If frost only leaves a few, the 
curculio sometimes takes them all. 

Question 14. I think curled leaf with us, in the 
spring, often occurs from frost. 

Question 15. The best way is for growers to do all 
in their power to induce buyers to come to their stations 
and sell to them, in peach baskets, being careful only to 
offer good fruit. Poor fruit should be given to hogs if 
not able to dry it. If western buyers continue to come 
here a year or two longer, Philadelphia and New York 
commission merchants will be compelled to come also, or 
do without peaches. 

ANSWERS RECEIVED FROM GROWER, NO. 1 6. 

Question i. 100 Troth, 100 Crawford's Early, lOO 
Mixons, TOO Moore's, 100 Stump, 200 Crawford's Late, 
200 Smock. 

Question 2. A light, sandy soil, with plenty of 
sub-soil drainage, no red clay or loam ; slightly rolling 
ground. 

Question 3. In New Castle County, ten years. 

Question 4. Middletown to Salisbury. 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 183 

Question 5. Spring. 

Question 6. Ten below zero. 

Question 7. When it first opens. 

Question 8. As soon as frost will permit, and the 
ground is dry enough. Plough as shallow as possible, 
throwing the furrow from trees first, afterwards back ; 
after that, harrow. 

Question 9. Ashes, one good pan shovel-full close 
around each tree, throwing it back the next year, and 
applying another the same way. 

Question 10. Never prune, except to get close 
enough to cultivate ; never thin out wood nor fruit. 

Question 11. I know it to my sorrow; have no 
opinion on the subject. The best treatment would be, 
plenty of ashes. Worm some little in the spring. 

Question 12. Know no difference. My opinion 
that most are grown from budded fruit. Natural fruit 
will have the Yellows. 

Question 13. I think not. 

Question 14. When the late frost touches the 
leaves, they are seen to curl. 

Question 15. To find, first, the best market, then 
put them up in the most attractive way. It must be 
varied according to the quantity of the fruit in the 



184 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

market. I think, if the growers would generally com- 
bine, and make the purchaser come to the country and 
buy, it would be desirable, as no more peaches would 
go to the market than was wanted. The balance 
could be disposed of at home, evaporated, etc. I don't 
think there is anything that carries the peach better than 
the basket, nor anything that shows it to a greater 
advantage. 

ANSWERS RECEIVED FROM GROWER, NO. 17. 

Question i. Early Rivers for light soil only, Yellow 
St. John, Troth's Early, Mountain Rose, Foster, Craw- 
ford's Early, Reeves' Favorite or Mary's Choice, Old 
jMixon or Moore's Favorite, Christiana, very good. 
Crawford's Late, JBrandywine, only for heavy soil. 
Stump, Fox's Seedling, Shipley's, Gearey's Hold On. 

Question 2. Such soil, in different localities, which 
has grown fine fruit. Light soil for early kinds, and 
also to develop high color in all kinds, early and late. 
Would avoid valleys, and shelter from woods. 

Question 3. With the average grower, not as long 
by eight years as it ought to, too many neglected while 
young, and too many abandoned too soon. The average 
ought to not be lower than 22 years. 

Question 4. I think, from Dover to Delmar. 

Question 5. Damage from low temperature, I 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 185 

think, most frequent after March ist. I think, lack of 
cultivation has much to do with trees failing to retain 
fruit-crops the following year. 

Question 6. Have not observed closely on this 
point, but have seen good fruit crops after zero weather. 

Question 7. I believe when in full bloom. 

Question 8. I plough early, and four inches deep, 
and cultivate with one horse, on light ground. 

Question 9. Have used kainit alone, but not with 
as good results as from a phosphate, with moderate per- 
centage of potash, and large percentage of bone. If I 
used kainit alone, not less than 800 lbs. per acre, nor 
less than 500 lbs. of such brand of phosphate as used for 
past five years, broadcast over entire surface. 

Question 10. Would head low and thin out 
branches thoroughly, for three years after planting, to 
avoid heavy cuts and to prevent branches growing in a 
direction to interfere with close cultivation. Cutting off 
branches so large that the cut will not heal over, I think 
takes years from the life of the tree. I believe hand- 
thinning pays. 

Question 11. There maybe a constitutional disease 
known as yellows, but I am not prepared to say, 
positively, that there is. So far as I have investigated, 
the cause has been from the effect of the black Aphis on 



l86 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

the roots ; this insect does not always appear on the tree 
above ground. To kill worms, have used, effectively, i 
quart gas-house lime around the base of the tree. 

Question 12. I know of no test on this point. 
Some of the best orchards I know of were grown on 
trees from budded seeds from canning house. Have 
never seen an orchard that I knew, beyond doubt, was 
grown from natural seed. Would make no difference 
between purely natural seed and those from Troth's and 
Smock. 

Question 13. Have seen no serious damage from 
this cause. 

Question 14. Have seen curled leaf where Aphis 
has been at work, without regard to soil. 

Question 15. Have great hopes the Fruit Exchange 
will become popular. Not prepared to offer any sugges- 
tions now. 

Question 16. Have seen yellows on natural trees 
without investigating the cause. 

ANSWERS RECEIVED FROM GROWER, NO. 18. 

Question i. The Smocks and Crockets are, in my 
experience, perhaps, because late peaches are the first to 
bloom, and therefore more valuable below, on this Penin- 
sula. (See my last pub. essay.) 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 1 8/ 

Question 2. My greatest success was on the soil of 
" old sedge field " which failed to produce half a crop of 
corn (and of course wheat) and I used it as a sheep pas- 
ture, but when cultivated as a peach orchard, (as per 
above essay) the result in corn was amazing, (between 
the trees). 

Question 3. At present, without above cultivation 
three or four years, some survive 30 years and bear. 

Question 4. Middletown and Berlin. 

Question 5. The late frosts of the spring impair the 
vitality of the sets, sometimes during three consecutive 
years ; but our early frosts may, for seven years, destroy 
the crops. (See my peach essay.) 

Question 6. This may depend on the wind, say 10 
below zero. 

Question 7. Rarely after the blossom drops. 

Question 8. After the blossom. (See my essay.) 

Question 9. Black Residuum. (See my essay.) 

Question 10. When the fruit is well formed or half- 
grown, the trimming doubles its size, but my trees were 
trimmed severely when planted, as customary, and this 
I deprecate. 

Question 11. It is not a disease any more than 
Ergot or Smut, but as Ergot contracts capillaries, so 



l88 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

also the mycelium, which produces yellows (when 
admitted by some defect) may contract capillaries with- 
out contact. (See my essay.) 

Question 12. I should prefer seed from Carolina, 
(Native,) or the best specimens of budded fruit as alter- 
native. 

Question 13. It has, perhaps, both directly and 
indirectly, giving access to mycelium, and predisposing 
the tree to be vulnerable in every part. (The split 
quince tree illustrates this.) 

Question 14. The curled leaf sometimes results 
from frost ; in its embryo it is thus destroyed. 

Question 15. Uniform size and quality in each 
basket, separating XX from X and prime from culls. 
In your opinion is lime as usually used in Delaware in 
agriculture, useful or detrimental to the peach tree, and 
your reasons for your opinion } I cannot imagine the 
purchase of lime as a manure, nor deprecate its presence 
in the culture of any plant. Lime is applied to chalk 
soils with apparent good effect, and I have seldom, (if 
ever,) analyzed a soil which contained less than 200 to 
300 bushels per acre, (though never applied !) We NOW 
prefer to use manures which crops remove and cannot 
be available naturally, if relatively deficient. 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 1 89 

ANSWERS RECEIVED FROM GROWER, NO. I9. 

Question i. We think the standard are best, such 
as Troth's, Early York, Alexander, (Amsden,) (if 
weather suits,) Crawford's Early and Late, Reeves', 
Beer's Smock, and Ward's Late. It is a difficult 
question to answer, as every one has a different opinion 
and ideas. I have tried a few of the new varieties, but 
hold to old ones. 

Question 2. High loam, with red clay subsoil, a 
little sandy if anything, seems to produce good color 
as well as size. 

Question 3. From ten to twenty years, according 
t© attention and soil. 

Question 4. It seems to be from Middletown to 
Charles City. 

Question 5. It is generally in the spring, although 
they have been killed in winter when so extremely cold 
as to freeze the wood or the sap that remains up. 

Question 6. When below zero, we begin to fear. 

Question 7. The most fatal time is when there 
comes a heavy frost or a sleet, after the blossom has 
opened, and a frost where the peach is a fair size, will 
affect it so as not to be perceptible immediately, but 
will show when peach is further advanced in the shed- 
ding, and rotting on trees at all stages. 



190 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

Question 8. It has been proven late ploughing is 
better, say after corn planting. When the orchard is 
covered with dead grass, the ground does not attract 
frost as much as ploughed or bare ground, therefore, the 
fruit is not affected by frost as readily. Shallow plough- 
ing by all means, and cultivate well, after several times, 
until fruit is too large. 

Question 9. Some prefer manure in spring, and 
others in fall, and potash in spring. Barn-yard manure 
by all means ; if not to be had, then Potash and Bone. 
Spread manure broadcast, as roots are all over the 
ground. If Potash, drill it in. Some have an idea to 
put manure and fertilizers around the trunk of the tree. 
If in bearing, it is all nonsense ; but with young trees, 
say I and 2 years old. it is different ; use from 200 to 400 
pounds per acre. 

Question 10. As soon as the fruit is picked, I think 
is the best time. You can see better what is needed. 
We try and leave the middle open for the sun and air, 
and cut all branches that interfere with one another. 
Trim close and hard. I would not like to risk hand- 
thinning, as we find nature attends to that a little closer 
for us, as there is no certainty of them staying on. If 
there was I would say, thin. 

Question 11. I do. It is caused principally by 
planting budded seed instead of natural. It is on the 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. I9I 

same principle as breeding in stock for instance. I 
notice potash is a good remedy, drilled in. We always 
worm in the fall if possible, if they are not attended to 
in time, it may have something to do with the yellows. 
It certainly does not do a tree any good to allow the 
tree to bleed until a heavy gum has formed ; if it remains 
it will breed disease of some kind. 

Question 12. Natural seed. 

Question 13. I cannot say. We have not been 
troubled with it to our knowledge. Some years the fruit 
is gummy, but the cause I cannot say, and I do not 
think any one can give a correct idea of it. At the 
same time we often find a worm in a peach, (the ques- 
tion) how did it get there ? It must have had an egg 
deposited there when in -blossom, or a very early stage 
of the peach. A full grown worm never crawled there 
is an absolute fact, therefore, the curculio, or some in- 
sect deposited the egg. 

Question 14. Have not noticed any, if there is, it 
is on low, stiff, or very poor ground, not adapted to 
peaches. 

Question 15. We found, this year, the first of the 
season, gallon baskets in crates sold well, but the 
sharpers in the city found they could buy by the 
basket, and put in gallon baskets and make a good profit, 
but it broke the market up for the grower ; we had to 



192 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

ship in the regular basket the balance of the season. I 
think the best way is to cull your fruit close, and send 
nothing but good fruit ; buyers will find out your stock 
is good, and will always buy ahead, at an advance of the 
market, for they can rely on it. A great many do not 
cull, but work their small, imperfect ones in the middle of 
basket, and then complain their fruit does not pay, or 
the commission man is not doing what he ought to, 
when the grower is in fault. The great secret is to 
watch the market close. At times one is much better 
than the other. Extra fruit pays in Boston when it 
would not in New York. At times is better in Phila- 
delphia. The grower must be awake to that. The man 
with the best fruit from a well attended orchard and 
posted in the market, gets the prices. Nothing like a 
reputation for growing No. i fruit. . The balance will 
take care of itself. If you get an orchard started right, 
and keep it right, it will be profitable, if you get the 
trees you ordered. There is so much demand for 
trees now, the nurserymen are planting any and every- 
thing to supply the demand. Do natural trees ever have 
yellows ? Never heard of any. 

ANSWERS RECEIVED FROM GROWER, NO. 20. 

Question i. Troth's Early Red. Mountain Rose, 
Reed's Golden, Reeves' Favorite, Moore's, Mixon, 
Stump, Shipley's Late, Beer's Smock. 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. I93 

Question 2. Ashy loam surface, with red or yellow 
clay sub-soil and high level land. 

Question 3. Twelve to fifteen years in profit. 

Question 4. Smyrna and Laurel. 

Question 5. Spring. 

Question 6. 5 to 10 degrees below zero. 

Question 7. When the blossoms commence to dry 
up and shed. 

Question 8. Prefer ploughing as early as possible ; 
plough very shoal, near the trees, four to five inches in 
the middle ; after ploughing, harrow to fine the ground ; 
then cultivate thoroughly and finish with harrowing, to 
level etc. the ground. 

Question 9. Well - decomposed stable or pound 
manure, or ground bone with Muriate of Potash or Kainit 
and Tankage. If the ground is rich dont think the 
latter is requisite. Use manure in the fall, broadcast, if 
trees are well grown. Use the composition in spring 
and plough it under. 

Question 10. We prune :n September and October, 
thin out the trees moderately but uniformly. Never thin 
fruit by hand. 

Question 11. I believe there is such a disease which 
Is called the yellows, but have never been able to ascer- 
13 



194 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

tain the cause or remedy. Have tried several so called 
remedies without satisfactory results. We worm trees 
in September and October. 

Question 12. Prefer trees grown from seed of 
natural fruit. 

Question 13. I don't think it has. 

Question 14. Some years, from frost and curculio 

Question 15. Cull carefully after picking and ship 
by rail in f stave Peach baskets. 

ANSWERS RECEIVED FROM GROWER, NO. 21 

Question i. Yellow Peaches : St. John's, Early 
Rivers, Reeves' Favorite, Crawford's Late, Smock, 
White Peaches : Mountain Rose, Troth's Early, Moore's 
Favorite, Fox's Seedling, Old Mixon, Ward's Late Free, 
Shipley's Late Red. These seem to be the favorite 
varieties, in this locality, Wyoming, the present peach 
centre. The yellow varieties bring more money per 
basket, but the white varieties are so much more certain 
and prolific bearers, I think they pay best. 

Question 2. A decidedlj^ sandy loam ; the site of 
the orchard should be as nearly level as practicable, and 
should not be sheltered. On a hillside — slight declivity 
northward is better protected, because the fruit will be 
later in flowering, and therefore, less liable to late frost . 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. I95 

Question 3. About seventeen years. JVell cared 
for, twenty-five to thirty. 

Question 4. From Middletown to Delmar. The 
present centre seems to be Wyoming. Another decade 
will remove it to Harrington. 

Question 5. An extraordinary drought extending 
into the late autumn may cause large portion of the 
buds to perish, but there always seem to be enough left. 
The most serious damage is done in the late winter or 
early spring by excessive cold after very bright, warm 
spells of weather. The warm weather starting the buds, 
and the extreme cold and sharp winds succeeding, 
causing the forward buds to perish. 

Question 6. Ten degrees below zero will, usually, 
if continued 48 hours, kill the buds, and fifteen to twenty 
degrees will be very apt to kill the young wood in this 
climate. 

Question 7. A heavy frost is almost always fatal to 
the peach after the bloom is made, and before the blossom 
has dropped, though I do not believe that low tempera- 
ture, on cloudy nights, is fatal. It is the congealed 
moisture or frost contained and retained in the flower 
that causes the young peach to perish. I remember that 
about seven years ago, or six. Dr. Ridgely and I met 
one forenoon, after examining our orchards, respectively, 
and concurred in the opinion that the peaches were all 



196 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

killed. The blossom had just done dropping and the 
peach was about the size of a marrowfat pea, when 
there came a very heavy frost succeeded by a bright, 
sunny morning. The small end of the peach was, at 
about II o'clock, three shades darker in color than the 
rest of the fruit — presenting the appearance of having 
been frozen and then thawed, but v/e had fair crops, not- 
withstanding. 

Question 8. I have always postponed the ploughing 
of my orchard until the corn crop was planted, and har- 
rowed with a drag ; but I am convinced that the peach 
orchard ought to be ploughed as soon as the ground is 
settled and dry enough to plow, and harrow as often as a 
corn crop. A second ploughing, I believe, would be of 
advantage to the orchard. 

Question 9. I have only used kainit, barn-yard 
manure, bone meal and lime, alternately. Kainit, from 
400 lbs. to 800 lbs. per acre, broadcast ; barn-yard manure, 
bone and lime, the same as for wheat and corn crops. 

Question 10. I prune in February quite severely, 
but have never attempted hand-thinning the fruit. The 
curculio generally attends to that matter. 

Question 11. I do believe there is such a disease as 
yellows, very firmly, and I believe it has been caused, 
sometimes, by setting an orchard with trees budded from 
trees all ready affected ; sometimes by budding on stocks 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. I97 

grown from the seed of peaches, gathered from trees 
affected with that disease, and sometimes carried by 
bees and by the wind in the pollen of diseased orchards, 
to healthy ones. The only treatment is extermination 
of the diseased trees by digging up and carting off and 
burning. I never have wormed my trees, but propose, 
hereafter, to do so. But we think here that removing a 
portion of the dirt from around the tree in autumn and 
spreading hot lime in its place, and then, in the spring, 
replacing the dirt, prevents worms, and that an ounce of 
prevention is better than a pound of cure. 

Question 12. I certainly prefer trees grown from 
the seed of the natural fruit, and would prefer buds from 
natural fruit if they could be had. I think every grower 
of peaches should raise his own trees in his own nursery. 

Question 13. The curcurlio, in my judgment, is an 
aid to the grower when the orchard is too heavily set in 
fruit, but when the crop of young peaches is light, the 
curcurlio will have its share and to that extent is a serious 
enemy to the peach in this region. The best thing to be 
done when the crop is likely to be too much decimated, 
is to work the orchard frequently, and in doing so to jar 
the tree by striking the padded swingle-tree of the 
plough or harrow against every tree. This keeps the 
insect always on the go. 

Question 14. I have often seen the curled leaf. It 



198 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

Is found most abundantly on cold, stiff soils and after 
cold, easterly storms. I have rarely seen it on warm, 
sandy loam soils, even after such storms, unless when 
long continued and very severe. 

Question 15. I think the best way to market the 
peach is to pack them, Extra fine fruit, in small baskets, 
say one peck baskets. The strictly prime, in the | 
basket ; and when the crop is not abundant, crate the 
residue, except the culls, and sell them to the dryers, or 
dry them yourself. When the crop is very large I prefer 
to sell all to the dryers except the extras and strictly 
prime. We sell here, at Wyoming, almost every grade for 
the last three years to the buyers, who come here from the 
north, east and west, to sojourn with us for the peach 
season, and peaches bring here 20 per cent, more than at 
any other station on the road except Bridgeville, and 
some 10 per cent, more than at Bridgeville. 

May I suggest what I deem an improvement over 
the mode of setting out peach orchards usually followed .-* 
Almost every person plants peach trees 20 feet apart 
each way. The finest fruit in flavor, size and color that 
I have ever known raised on any orchard in this section 
of the country, grew on one which I planted twenty- 
seven years ago, and pulled up seven years ago. Instead 
of planting the trees 20 feet apart east and west, I set 
them 24 feet apart. By so doing the trees never inter- 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 199 

laced their branches, and the south and southwest winds 
which prevailed here in summer had full scope at every 
peach on every tree, and the sun could also shine on 
every peach not entirely shaded by the leaves. The 
result was that I had the best fruit raised in this section, 
the highest color, largest size and finest flavored, and it 
sold higher than any other to the New York buyers. In 
1865, Messrs. Wanson & Feree of that city, paid me 
$1.05 per basket for all my fruit, which was 10 cents 
higher than they paid any other person. I sold them 
3,960 baskets and they told me at the close of the season 
that they had made $1200 on my crop. The fruit 
averaged them $1.60 per basket in the N. Y. market. 
After the bargain for the orchard had been made I felt 
that the price might be an unreasonable one and told 
Mr. Feree, who was here, to keep an accurate account of 
all shipments of my fruit. I would divide the loss with 
them. He said he had done so with the above result. 

One further suggestion I must inflict upon you. 
Hon. Jacob Blair, ex-M. C. from West Virginia, told me 
some years ago, that a friend of his over in Ohio had not 
failed to raise a good crop of peaches in thirty years, 
and that his fruit commanded an extra price in the 
Pittsburg and other markets. I wrote to that gentle- 
man, and he attributed his unvaried success to raising a 
mound a foot high around each tree at one year old, 
increasing it each year, till it became three feet high. 



200 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

Result no worm, no yellows, no disease, long lived tree, 
and a sure crop every year of the very finest fruit. The 
mound freezing solid, kept the blooming back, he said, 
a week or more, until the late frosts were past. I pro- 
pose to try this on a few trees of each variety this 
season. 

A LETTER FROM GROWER, NO. 22. 
I have not your circular at hand. I think the 
yellows are the result of neglect and starvation, and 
sometimes largely attributed to the borer. I know that 
yellows can be cured by applying to the soil the essential 
normal elements of the constituents of the peach — bark, 
pith, leaf and general fibre — which are readily determined 
by careful analysis. Starvation is the principal and 
chief cause of yellows. In my opinion, I consider it as 
essential to restore, annually, to the soil, the ingredients 
of the peach, as it is to do so for wheat or corn. I think 
kainit very beneficial, as well as many other things. I 
think if you propose writing an article on the peach, you 
should urge the imperative necessity of organization — 
systematic organization for the intelligent distribution 
of our fruit. The millions of trees now being planted 
will certainly create a great glut and consequent distress, 
unless a central office shall daily receive telegraphic 
reports from every station, of the quantity and destina- 
tion of each car, and on finding more cars are 
consigned to any one city than said city can readily 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 20I 

consume, at paying prices, the President of the Associa- 
tion, shall have authority to distribute the said cars, 
judiciously, among the many hundred towns to which 
the Pennsylvania Rail Road will deliver them. Thus, 
gluts can be avoided, and an intelligent supervision be 
established and consequent remunerative rates be main- 
tained. The Association should select, in every town, 
the most reliable firm, early in the season, and, if possible, 
obtain security in some shape, or a guarantee of their 
payments and general fair dealing. Some such organiza- 
tion will soon become imperative. 

SHIPPING PEACHES TO EUROPE. 

That peaches may be shipped to Europe, and the 
experiment prove profitable, Mr. G. A. Cochran, of 
Middletown, has shown. He shipped tomatoes success- 
fully last year, but did not try peaches until this season. 
He packed them in the individual ripe-fruit case, each 
peach packed by itself, thoroughly ventilated during the 
transit, and shipped them by the fast steamers of the 
Cunard line, as the Oregon, the Umbria, and the Etruria, 
either steamer making an average passage to Liverpool 
of under eight days. Mr. Cochran picked peaches at 
Clayton, August 20th, shipped them by ordinary freight 
to New York, and put them on the steamer of August 
22d. They were landed in Liverpool on the night of 
August 30th, and were sold the next day, eleven days 
after picking at Clayton. They were in fine order, 



202 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

selling readily at $9 per case, and cost him for fruit, 
freights and commissions, about $4.80 per case. There 
were 288 peaches in each case, each packed by itself. 
It will be seen the peaches cost him i§ cents each, and 
he sold them at wholesale for 3| cents each. 



THK PHAR. 



Chapter X. 

INTRODUCTION. 

Where ever the two fruits have been grown, the pear 
has probably, heretofore, been looked upon as a luxury, on 
account of its very delicate flavor and lusciousness, and 
its scarcity, and the apple as a necessity, from its 
unrivalled excellence as an article of fruit-diet, and its 
abundance. The great increase in the cultivation of the 
pear is bringing it before the masses of the people much 
more prominently than formerly as an article of food, and 
it is now becoming every year a most formidable rival of 
the apple ; although I dont think it can by any means reach 
the popularity of that fruit as a general fruit for house- 
hold use. The pear belongs to the rose family and 
resembles the apple. In its wild state it is one of the 
most repulsive mouthfuls that can be conceived of, as 
any one can verify by eating one of our common choke- 
pears, and even this is luscious in comparison with the 
wild pear. So when we afterward revel in all the concen- 



2o6 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

trated sweets of a well ripened Beurr6 d' Anjou we can 
readily see what cultivation has done for the fruit we are 
discussing. Pears are frequently mentioned in the 
writings of the Ancient Greeks, Romans, Syrians and 
Egyptians, and came from the east through Italy,and were 
from here scattered over Western Europe, and from thence 
to the Western Hemisphere. The Pears used by these 
early people were, from all accounts, not of the exquisite 
flavor of our modern varieties, and the flavor did not 
improve greatly until the latter part of the sixteenth 
century, and it is only during the last one hundred and 
twenty-five years that we have added such luxuries as 
the Bartlett, the Seckel and the Beurre d' Anjou. The 
finding of the Seckel in this country as an accidental 
variety shows that we have all the requisites here for the 
pear to thrive and develope its most exquisite qualities 
The Pear Tree, as a standard, lives to a great age, reaches 
often, a very large size ; commences to bear at a com- 
paratively early age and yields a great abundance of 
fruit. There is a fermented drink made from pears called 
Perry to distinguish it from the Cider made from apples, 
but in the local option counties of the Eastern Shore it 
is called "Pear Cider "and in many cases proves itself 
a very entangling alliance. 

The Pear tree starting from the seed is developed 
as follows : We plant the seed, heat, moisture, and air, 
cause germination, and, if we bury it too deep, so as to 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 20/ 

exclude it from air, it wont germinate, and, like many 
other seeds planted too deep, the crop fails to come. 
The seed germinating, cell-growth commences with this 
germination, and by this proliferation of cells the tree in 
all its parts is formed. A limb several inches in diameter 
cut across will reveal millions of cells, so numerous are 
they, and each cell in itself is a perfect organization, and 
thus it is easy to see, if the cells become diseased or are 
preyed upon by any parasite or other enemy, how at 
once the whole tree must suffer. The importance of 
this cell-explanation will be seen when we come to talk 
of the diseases and enemies of the pear. The roots we 
all know by sight ; there is the main root called the tap- 
root, and it runs downwards into the ground ; scan 
this root well, as it measures the depth of the hole we 
will dig when we come to plant the tree. This tap-root 
throws off laterals and the laterals throw off fibres 
called fibrous roots or rootlets, and, in turn, these throw 
off hair-like roots or root-hairs, and thus the root is 
made up. The roots absorb moisture from the soil, and 
the more minute roots are always the most active in this 
work. Now where the root joins the body of the tree 
we call the collar, and we can change the situation of 
the collar by banking up the earth around the tree ; then 
that part of the body covered by earth will throw out 
rootlets and the collar will move upwards. Now we 
have the body of the tree ; then come the bark, the 



208 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

branches, and the leaves. The bark is for the convey- 
ance of the sap, or blood of the tree, up in the spring- 
and down in the fall. The sap descends from the leaves 
through the inner bark and deposits its layers of wood 
and bark annually. The body-wood is composed of the 
sap-wood and the old wood ; and the branches are the 
main or leading branches ; then descending, in size to 
the shoots or growing part of the limbs ; and last, the 
fruit-spurs. Now again there are the buds of the leaves 
and the buds of the blossoms or fruit-buds. The leaf- 
buds grow into branches of the tree. On the pear the 
leaf-buds grow on the new wood of the year, and the 
fruit-buds come on the wood of the last year, and 
grow on the end of spurs called fruit-spurs, growing out 
from this last year's wood. Now, all this is important as 
will be seen when we come to speak of fertilizing Pear 
trees. In young trees growing rapidly, all buds are leaf- 
buds ; as they grow old, growth is slower, and many leaf- 
buds become fruit-buds ; and hence, the tree becomes 
fruitful, and so, by encouraging growth in Pear trees, in 
fact, in most fruit trees, we discourage fruiting, and by 
checking growth of wood we encourage fruiting ; but if 
this be done too much, the tree and its product both will 
suffer in the end. Now this does not hold true as to vigor- 
ous growing Pear trees coming into bearing late, for some 
of the most vigorous growers, as the Bartlett, Le Conte 
and Kieffer, come into bearing very early, and some 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 2C9 

of the slow growers, as Beurre Bosc, come in late. 
The leaves are made up of the veins, the ribs, and the 
leaf-stalk ; thus giving the frame work and vessels for 
the flowing of the sap, and the leaf is completed. Then 
we have the green pulp which fills the intervals of the 
frame work, and the whole covered by skin. These 
leaves are made up of cells crowded together on the 
upper side of the leaf, and on the lower side not so 
closely crowded. Hence the leaf is of a darker green on 
the upper side than on the lower side. On the lower 
side are mostly situated the pores for breathing, and in 
the pear, number thirty thousand to the square inch. 
The pear is exogenous ; that is, grows by additions to the 
outside of the wood ; and the process of growing of 
such trees is as follows, as described by physiological 
botanists, and for the main parts of which description, as 
for the foregoing, I am indebted to the admirable work 
of Thomas, on Fruit Culture. The roots absorb water, 
which, in them, changes slightly by mat<"er from the 
root cells being added, and is then sap. The sap passes 
from cell to cell, up through the sap-wood until it reaches 
the leaves. Now the sap having reached the leaf 
emerges from the dark cells through which it has been 
traveling and is spread out to sun-light. Now it is 
largely evaporated through the breathing pores of the 
leaf we just now spoke of, and it is thickened. The 
carbonic acid of the air, and that previously contained 
14 



2IO THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

in the sap, unites with the oxygen and hydrogen of the 
sap, and produces wood fibre, which is a triple compound 
of oxygen, hydrogen, and carbon, the oxygen of the 
carbonic acid escaping. Here the tree in breathing then 
gives out oxygen, while an animal in breathing, or any 
fire burning, gives out carbonic acid, and thus has God 
established the equilibrium in nature — and thus it is 
that what is poison to man is food to plants. 

Now leaves require sunlight to decompose carbonic 
acid, and it does not go on in the dark, and, hence, 
flowers in bed-rooms, at night, are not feeding on the 
carbon exhaled by sleepers — and doing the good many 
suppose them to do — but in daytime they are in the sun- 
light actively decomposing carbonic acid gas and giving 
out oxygen, and, hence, may be tolerated as healthful, 
so far as this process is concerned, but I discourage, 
altogether, the keeping of growing plants in any part of 
dwelling houses, as the earth about them and the decay- 
ing parts of the plant being necessarily attended by 
fermentation, disease-germs may be developed with 
serious consequences. The sap having now been thick- 
ened by evaporation in the leaf, comes down through the 
inner bark and forms a layer of semi-liquid matter 
between the bark and the wood ; this is called cambium 
and is now divided up, the great part goes to make a 
new layer of wood, and a small part goes to make a new 
layer of bark. In budding and grafting this cambium is 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 211 

one of the chief essentials in a take. This rapid evapo- 
ration through the leaves, gives us some valuable hints 
in transplanting pear or any other trees — always strip a 
tree of leaves before transplanting it — if you don't, the 
evaporation will be so rapid through the leaves that the 
tree will wither and die, but strip off the leaves and then 
transplant, and the tree sap wiil stay there and supply 
the tree until it has become accustomed to its new con- 
dition. So in moving a tree whilst in the growing 
season, and some of the roots are sacrificed in getting it 
up, you must also cut off some of the top, as too many 
leaves would cause too rapid evaporation for those roots 
that remain. 

The uses of the leaves of the tree being so neces- 
sary, it may well be seen what an injury the slug may 
prove to the Pear tree; especially when it often destroys 
a greater portion of its leaves. 

The bark performs a duty for the tree somewhat 
similar to that of the leaf, and with its adjoining cells 
preserves the identity of the class, as pear, apple, peach, 
etc. 

Here is a beautiful evidence of nature in preserving 
her identity, — bud the pear on the quince — all the leaves 
will grow on the pear top — yet all the nourishment these 
leaves make and send down the tree will make quince 
wood and bark on the quince, and pear wood and bark 
on the pear. 



212 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

THE PEAR BUDS 

are large and at the proper time expand into the flowers 
or blossoms. — and these blossoms are very beautiful, 
being pure white with purple anthers. These blossoms 
form into the fruit and the fruit contains the seeds and 
the seeds continue the propagation of the species. 

The flower is composed of the outside calyx — and 
the corolla or blossom leaves within the calyx. Now 
the necessary parts of the blossoms are the stamens and 
pistils. In the pear the anthers or head of the stamens 
are purple. In these anthers are the pollen, and it is dis- 
charged by the bursting of the anther, and this pollen is 
the fertilizing material essential to the reproduction of 
the species. The thread-like stalk of a stamen is called 
a filiment. The pistil consists of a stigma at the top, 
then below it the style to support the stigma and the 
ovary or future seed-vessel of the fruit. Now the pollen 
from the stamens falls on the stigma and the ovules are 
fertilized and become the seeds of the fruit, and the fruit 
itself, as we understand it, is merely for the growth and 
protection of the seed, the true embryo tree. All this 
talk will be of avail when we come to speak of hybrid 
pears, as the Kieffer. 

Now just here let me speak of one thing in fruit- 
growing we hear often of, and ignorance, of which has 
and will, cost much loss, viz.; the so called pistillate or 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 213 

imperfect blossom and the bisexual or perfect blossom. 
Take the Crescent strawberry for example, one of our 
most productive sorts ; it has a pistillate or imperfect 
blossom, and hence can't fertilize itself, and so to ensure 
a crop of Crescents we must plant to every two rows of 
them, one row of a variety, (as the Sharpless,) having a 
bisexual or perfect blossom. The pollen from the anther 
of the Sharpless fertilizes the ovule in the ovary of the 
Crescent and thus the perfect Crescent berry is produced. 
Take a blossom of the Crescent and one of the Sharpless, 
and note the difference ; the pistils are there generally on 
the Crescent blossom, and on the Sharpless blossom you 
see the stamens and the anthers on the top of them, 
making them, with the pistils and other parts, the perfect 
or bisexual blossoms. 

The varieties of the Pear number into the thousands, 
and, probably, over one thousand have been fruited in 
the United States. We divide Pear trees into the 
standard or single trees — the dwarf or compound trees, 
and hybrid trees — and the fruit is spoken of, or rather 
should be spoken of, as fruit from standards — fruit from 
dwarfs, and fruit from hybrids. The standard is the 
original Pear tree. The dwarf is one where the pear- 
stalk has been grafted or budded on the quince root, and 
thus the tree is, in a measure, dwarfed. It may also be 
grafted or budded on the thorn and some other roots 
with the same result. The hybrid tree is one where the 



214 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

blossom of one tree has been fertilized by the blossom 
of another tree, and the blossom of the producing tree, 
maturing a pear which shall contain a seed, and which 
seed, planted, shall produce a pear like neither of the 
trees which took part in its creation. In fact, the 
product will be a hybrid, a mule among pears. 

The Kieffer is a good example of a hybrid pear, 
and is supposed to be a cross between the Chinese Sand 
Pear, and a Bartlett grown near it in the garden of 
Peter Kieffer, of Philadelphia, where the original Kieffer 
tree is still standing, and is now eighteen years old. 
The best specimen of a Chinese Sand Pear tree that I 
know of, is in the grounds of Thomas Holcomb, Esquire, 
the efficient Recorder of Deeds of New Castle County, 
Delaware, and can be seen in the lawn surrounding his 
residence in the city of New Castle, The pear is among 
the oldest of our fruit trees on the Peninsula, and 
specimen trees are now standing, over a century old, 
and trees were, undoubtedly, planted soon after their 
arrival, by the French Huguenots, who came over and 
settled here after the revocation of the Edict of Nantes 
in 1685. Now, as to how long pear growing for profit 
in field culture has been conducted on the Peninsula, 
two decades, or at most three decades, of the past, will, 
I have no doubt, cover the time, and how successful it 
has been or with what discouragements it has been 
attended, will be shown, in part, by the answers to the 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 215 

questions which I sent to most of the intelligent pear- 
growers of the Peninsula, and which will be found in 
their appropriate place in this book. As to my own 
opinion, gained from personal experience, and from 
observation and intercourse with pear- growers, it is. that 
pear growing is profitable, and a grand industry for the 
Peninsula farmer — if — (and that if must be spelled with 
a great big 



i) 



he be alive to every detail and to every surrounding of 
the business. In this it differs from no other kind of 
farming, or from no other kind of business, for I think 
the great source of the want of success of men in all 
manner of business, is this lack of attention to detail ; for 
detail comprises everything necessary to make the suc- 
cessful business man ; labor, energy, thrift, experience, 
quick perception, and to these traits might be added, 
the obeying of the laws of God and man. 

There is no royal road to success in pear-culture. It 
is a fruit, of all other fruits, that demands a grower's 
every attention and his most guarded care and watching. 
It is so subject to disease and injury from pests of the 
insect order, that for some parts of the year it requires 
attention even in the dark hours of the night, and the 
man who is not alive to all this need have no high hope 
of succeeding in its successful cultivation. I have seen 
some statistics which prove that of all the Pear Trees 



2l6 THE CULTIVAVION OF THE 

planted in one of the New England States, at the end 
of ten years from such planting, not over ten per cent, 
of the trees were healthy and alive. The mortality on 
the Peninsula has not been so great as that, perhaps, but 
it certainly reaches nearer that loss than most persons 
at first thought would imagine. 

When one wishes to plant pears he should watch 
every detail, as near as possible, from the seed to the 
tree in the orchard, for the most vital mistakes are made 
in getting poor trees, and in getting the wrong varie- 
ties, and then in selecting the wrong soil and exposure, 
and in the wrong culture and fertilizing, or lack of proper 
culture and fertilizing. 

Be watchful, be vigilant, be industrious, and adopt 
the experience gained from experienced growers, con- 
stantly endeavoring to improve on the best methods, 
and with every attention to detail, as any other good 
business man is attentive to the carrying on of his 
business, you will make pear-growing, at once, suc- 
cessful, profitable and delightfully entertaining. 



Chapter XL 

PROPAGATION OF THE PEAR. 

In propagating the Pear it is necessary to have very 
rich land, especially here where our summers are hot, 
and if not very rich, the site for the seedling bed should 
be made so by wood ashes, and artificial fertilizers, con- 
taining all the elements of plant-food, as potash, phos- 
phoric acid, ammonia, etc. I would not use raw manure, 
but only manure, if at all, that had been composted for 
a long time. These-green manures breed bacteria, and 
I am satisfied would start unhealthy trees. Now the 
most important thing coming next, is the seed, to have 
them pure, in order to start healthy trees. Here, I 
believe, is the great, first cause of diseased pear trees 
now so common, the use of seed from all sorts of pears, 
natural, dieased, budded, grafted, and any other kind 
that may turn up, either here, in America, or in Europe. 
Indeed the very same causes that produce diseased 
Peach trees are producing diseased Pear trees. I think 
most of our pear seedlings now used in this country are 
imported from France, and are from one to three years 
old when received. 



2l8 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

The seed should be from healthy common Choke, or 
Hedge pears if possible, and certainly the least relation 
the seeds bear to our finer pears the better. They 
should be planted in the fall, very soon after they have 
been taken from the fruit. Plant them in broad drills 
and keep them well tilled and attended to, until they 
are about one-fourth of an inch in diameter, and then 
take them up in the spring or fall and transplant them 
to nursery rows, twelve inches apart, and four feet 
between the rows. These may be budded or grafted in 
a year. The great enemy to pear seedlings is leaf- 
blight. It comes on in mid-summer, the leaves turn 
brown and drop off. The cause is, probably, the aphis 
and other insects, and raw manures. The remedy is to 
pull out diseased trees, avoid raw manures, and not to 
force the tree too much, and cultivate attentively, and 
Paris Green or Hellebore the leaves in the season. The 
seedlings which come from France and other parts of 
Europe, reach here in the fall ; are then kept in moist 
sand or saw-dust in a cellar, or room protected from 
frost, are then planted the following spring in nursery 
row, and budded in the following July and August. If 
the seedlings are large and it is intended to graft 
them, they may be kept as before stated, and grafted in 
the winter at your leisure, and returned to the damp 
sand or saw-dust, and then set out the coming spring in 
nursery-row, planting the graft in the ground and 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 219 

covering all up to the first fruit-bud of the new pear- 
stock to which the root of the seedling had been grafted. 
The pear may be budded on the thorn, the mountain 
ash, or the apple, but the practice is not to be recom- 
mended. Dwarf trees are propagated by budding the 
pear stock to the root of the Angers Quince ; thus to 
some extent dwarfing the pear. The pear is deficient in 
fibrous roots and should never be transplanted of large 
size ; and one year old trees are much more likely to live 
than larger, finer looking trees. Pears are, I think, 
more surely propagated by budding than by grafting 
for nursery stock, and the method of budding is the 
same as that employed for the peach, for the descrip- 
tion of which the reader is referred to the article on 
budding the peach. The pears are budded in July, 
August and September, hereabouts ; in from ten to 
fifteen days the strings are cut off, and the following 
spring the tops are cut off down to the bud. The new 
bud is encouraged and developed during the following 
summer ; all buds kept rubbed off on the stock below it, 
and the next fall or spring is ready to set out in the 
orchard. If it be wished to graft the pear to the 
seedling instead of budding them, it is usually done 
when the nurseryman has time through the winter. 
Taking them out of the sand or saw-dust and returning 
them when finished, and planting them out in the spring. 
The larger seedlings are, perhaps, better grafted than 



220 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

budded. Tongue grafting is, I believe, most often 
employed, although some use saddle grafting, and not 
often cleft grafting. 

A saddle graft is where, for instance, we commence 
back an inch more or less from the bottom of the seed- 
ling cut square off several inches above the root ; now 
shave off each side so as to make a sharp wedge. Now 
take the corresponding end of the pear stock you wish 
to graft on to the seedling, in it cut a deep notch to re- 
ceive the wedge of the seedling. One fits accurately 
into the other when cut by an expert. 

Tongue grafting is where you shave off only one side 
of each instead of making a complete wedge, then cut 
notches in the two cut sides and apply them together so 
the notches dove-tail in. Cleft grafting is where you split 
the large limb and set in one or more of the grafts 
wedged a little at the inserting end. After the stalks 
have been grafted, tie them with waxed cotton yarn and 
put them back in the cellar. In the spring set them out 
and put the graft several inches under ground, at least 
up to the first or best bud on the new stalk. Don't 
trouble about the yarn, it rots off itself. 

For a full description of grafting and budding, see 
Charles Downing's Fruits and Fruit Trees of America. 
Here you will find plates, and without plates it is not 
easy to properly demonstrate such matters in a book. 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 221 

Practically, grafting and budding are very easily learned 
and all fruit growers should become experts. 

Now we have the trees ready for the orchard, and 
before going into the orchard I propose to treat of the 
varieties of the pear grown on the Peninsula. 



Chapter XII. 



VARIETIES OF THE PEAR GROWN ON THE PENINSULA. 

Probably, any pear that will thrive in other parts of 
the world will grow on the Delaware and Chesapeake 
Peninsula. I dont intend by any means to convey the 
idea though, that all these varieties of pears are desir- 
able for Peninsula culture, for as we advance in the sub- 
ject the reader will see that the number of desirable and 
profitable varieties are indeed few, and one of the greatest 
errors in the businesSj next to getting the wrong kinds 
is, to get too many kinds. 

Before going into the varieties of the fruit, let us 
speak briefly of the various classes of the trees. These 
are, the Standards, the Dwarfs, and the Hybrids, which 
are standards. It has been seen how we propagate the 
Standard, and it is the true pear tree ; strong and vigor- 
ous, with no taint of other blood, it should and does 
grow and bear Iruit for hundreds of years. 

The next, the Dwarf tree is, as has been shown, a 
compound tree, a pear tree with a quince root. The 
quince is only for the root to give life to the pear trunk, 



224 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

but if we plant the tree deep, several inches up the pear 
stalk, the pear stock will throw off roots and then we 
will have what is called a half Standard tree. 

The Hybrid trees are obtained, as before stated, by 
the pollen of one tree standing near another, fertilizing 
the blossom of the mother tree, and the seed of that fruit 
being planted, brings forth a new tree with fruit different 
from both parent trees. Fruit propagators often carry 
on this fertilizing of blossoms, artificially. 

Now what kind of pear tree shall we plant on the 
Peninsula ; Standards or Dwarfs ? 

P. T. Quinn of Newark, New Jersey, a great au- 
thority on pears in his neighborhood, writing in 1869, de- 
clared all Dwarf pears for orchard culture a failure 
except the Duchess, and this only does well on quince 
roots, but becomes half standard by throwing out roots 
from the pear stock. By judicious pruning, he says, he 
brings his Standards into bearing at from four to five 
years old. Now this is better than we can do on the 
Peninsula with our Standard trees, and fully as well as 
we can do with Dwarfs. 

I have looked into this matter very closely as to the 
advisability of planting Standards or Dwarfs. I have 
visited many of the celebrated pear orchards of the 
Peninsula, and have talked with, and argued the question 
with many of the most successful growers, and am very 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 225 

decidedly of the opinion that were I limited to one kind 
I would unreservedly choose the Dwarf pear to plant for 
profit in field culture on the Delaware and Chesapeake 
Peninsula. 

I have only been doubtful as to one variety, the Law- 
rence ; is it not better as a Standard ? A recent visit to 
the orchards of John H. Hessey in Cecil county, Mary- 
land, has convinced me that even the Lawrence is all 
right as a Dwarf, and bears about as regularly, (being 
full every other year and shy the intervening year,) as it 
does as a Standard, and the Standard fruit cannot be 
finer than Mr. Hessey's dwarf fruit. I had four hundred 
and fifty baskets of Lawrence this year from a little over 
one hundred Standard trees, which I thought very fine, 
but Mr. Hessey's, from Dwarf trees, were equally good. 

Pear trees were dwarfed in France, probably, one hun- 
dred years ago, and in this country have only been 
planted for about seventy years, and are, I think, con- 
stantly growing in favor. They demand and admit of 
high culture, which gives the largest and best specimens 
of fruit, and this is not always so with Standards. Not- 
withstanding what may be said to the contrary, they do 
come in bearing for profit, in just about one half the 
time that Standards come, barring one or two varieties 
of Standards. They cost less at first, they take up less 
ground, they are more sure to stand after transplanting 
15 



226 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

from the nursery, and when properly planted they be- 
come half Standards, and will live much longer than the 
average life usually given them, which is from fifteen to 
twenty-five years. Having planted the proper varieties, 
they suffer less from the ravages of the blight and other 
diseases than Standards. 

I have now growing on my fruit farms over six 
thousand pear trees, and only about one thousand of 
them are Standards, and I would be thoroughly satisfied 
if the ground they occupied was in Dwarfs, although 
most of the Standards are past twelve years planted. 
As to the hybrid trees, they grow very rapidly as 
Standards and come in bearing very early, and they have 
not been thoroughly tested on the quince, and as yet, 
therefore, I should recommend those planting them to 
plant Standards, at the same time testing them thor- 
oughly on quince. I refer to the new hybrids from the 
Japanese Sand Pears. 

THE SHAPES OF PEARS. 

The Massachusetts Horticultural Society's classifi- 
cation is now generally adopted, and is good, as follows : 

Globular. Ovate. Oblate. Oblong. Globular 
obtuse pyriform. Globular acute pyriform. Ovate 
pyriform. Obovate acute pyriform. Obovate obtuse 
pyriform. Oblong pyriform. Oblong ovate pyriform. 
Oblong obovate pyriform. 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 227 

As to the quality, we say, after the American Pomo- 
logical Society, "best," "very good" and "good." 

As to size, we say, "large," "medium" and small." 
For example take the Lawrence pear, it is, 
As to shape, obovate obtuse pyriform. 
As to quality, best. 
As to size, medium. 

As to some of the prefixes formerly used to names 
of pears, I shall, as far as possible, dispense with them 
in this work, as Doyenne, Beurre, etc., as they convey 
no particular distinctive mark to the pear. 

LIST OF PEARS THAT MAY BE GROWN ON THE DELA- 
WARE AND CHESAPEAKE PENINSULA. 

The list is given, as near as possible, in the order of 
ripening. It would be impossible to make such a list 
absolutely correct in this respect, as many varieties vary 
with soil, season, etc. S — Standard. D — Dwarf. S 
and D — Standard or Dwarf, that is, will succeed well on 
either. 

1 Lawson, or Comet, S and D 

2 Summer Doyenne, S 

3 Sugar Pear, S 

4 Madeline, S 

5 Mannings Elizabeth, S and D 

6 Ott, S 



228 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

7 Dearborn's Seedling, S 

8 Bloodgood. S 

9 Julienne, S 

10 Brandy wine , S 

11 Bell S 

12 Bartlett, S and D 

13 Rostiezer, S 

14 Tyson, S 

1 5 Howell, S and D 

16 Lodge, S 

17 Le Conte, S 

18 Bergamotte S 

19 Wilmington, S 

20 Belle Lucrative, S 

21 Duchess, .... D 

22 Bufifum, . S and D 

23 Louis Bonne (de Jersey), D 

24 Boussock, S 

25 d' Anjou, D 

26 Bosc , S 

27 Urbaniste S 

28 Dix, S 

29 Sheldon S and D 

30 Riitter, S 

3 1 Butter S 

32 Clairgeau, S 

33 Seckel, S 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 229 

34 Kiefifer, S and D 

35 Garbers Hybrid, S 

36 Lawrence, , . . S and D 

37 Vicar of Winkfield S and D 

38 Winter Nelis, S 

39 Easter, D 

40 Sha Lea, (Chinese Sand Pear,) S 

41 Suet Lea, (Chinese Snow Pear,) S 

42 Daimyo, Japanese, S 

43 Mikado, Japanese , . . . S 

44 Cin Cin Cis, Japanese, S 

45 Hawaii, (Sandwich Island Pear,) S 

I add these oriental pears as they may become 
useful and very valuable for hybridizing with our native 
pears. 

Clapfs Favorite is also grown on the Peninsula, 
chiefly as standard. Don't plant it. It is a beautiful 
tree with beautiful fruit for a few years, but almost 
invariably dies of blight. 

Law son or Comet. — Propagated and put on the 
market by Wm. Parry, Pomona Nurseries, N. J., a very 
intelligent and reliable man. He says it is the earliest 
pear ripening in July, is a vigorous upright grower with 
healthy foliage. The tree has been in existence 100 
years and has never been known to blight. Very pro- 
ductive and bears young, and is reliable either as 



230 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

Standard or dwarf. It came from the Lawson Farm in 
New York State. As to quality it has been pronounced 
only third rate by those experienced in testing the 
eating qualities of pears, and resembles the old French 
Jargonelle. The fruit is large and handsome, with a red 
blush. I advise Peninsula growers to test it carefully 
and moderately. We don't expect to get the luscious 
perfumed pears so early in the season, yet my great doubt 
in regard to this pear is whether or not it is fit to eat. 

Summer Doyenne. — I believe this is our most 
profitable summer pear for the Peninsula. It bears young 
and full, regular crops, and the fruit is small, but is well 
colored, juicy, sweet and well flavored. I have it, it 
ships well and it pays me well, it bligths moderately. — 
Standard. 

Sugar Pear. — I introduce this pear on the authority 
of Thomas J. Shallcross, a well-known fruit grower of 
Kent county, Maryland. 

It is the same as the Harvest Pear and ripens in 
July. Tree grows and bears well. Fruit small, round, 
pale yellow, brownish red tinge in the light, with some 
brown and green dots. F lesh sweet, but rather mealy. — 
Standard. 

Madeline. — Recommended to me by Henry H. 
McMullen, a well known and very intelligent fruit grower 
of New Castle Hundred, New Castle County, Delaware. 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 231 

It is good as an early retail market pear, but it won't 
ship long distances. The tree is vigorous and the fruit 
is pleasant and refreshing, and of medium size, of pale 
yellowish green color. This pear has some perfume, a 
valuable quality, particularly in an early pear. It is 
rather too much given to the blight. Standard. 

Manning's Elizabeth. — An elegant, early pear, 
standard or dwarf, but my objection to it is that it 
inclines to blight, as we generally get the trees from 
nurserymen, at present. Fruit is medium size, yellow, 
and red cheek, with dots. Is juicy and melting, and 
and will ship well for an early pear. After the tree gets 
to be twelve years old the fruit deteriorates and the 
tree needs to be treated as recommended for Duchess. 

(9//.— Albert H. Silver, Esq., of Red Lion, Del. 
grows this pear to perfection. It is a seedling of the 
Seckel. Tree productive and grows moderately. Fruit 
small, greenish yellow and reddish. Is rich in flavor, 
aromatic and perfumed, different specimens vary in 
flavor. Comes early. — Standard. 

Dearborns Seedling.— Yx\x\\. medium size ; light yel- 
low ; flesh white and juicy, melting ; Standard. 

Bloodgood. — Richard Jackson recommends this pear, 
and he is good authority. Other growers dont think it 
desirable. The fruit I think has the highest flavor of 



232 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

any of our early pears, but to have it in perfection it 
should be ripened in the house like most of our summer 
pears. Yellow and russetty in color. In flavor it is rich, 
melting and aromatic, and is perfumed ; Standard. 

Julienne. — Richard Jackson of Hare's Corner, Dela- 
ware, also recommends this pear for a retail market 
near home. The tree comes in early and is productive. 
It is of good flavor when prime, but varies in this respect 
with different seasons, and that is an objection. Fruit 
small, yellow ; flesh white ; moderately juicy and sweet. 
Standard. 

Brandywine. — Found on Eli Harvey's farm on the 
Brandywine. Fruit dull green and russetty, and reddish 
on one side ; flesh sweet and aromatic. Standard. 

Bell. — Recommended to me by Thomas J. Shall- 
cross of Kent county, Maryland. Fruit large, greenish ; 
early fall or last of summer. Standard. 

Bartlett. — Undoubtedly the most profitable variety 
for Peninsula field culture. It is the pear to eat, the 
pear to dry, the pear to can and the pear to plant. 
Originated in England in 1770, and was brought to 
Massachusetts and cultivated by Enoch Bartlett ; hence, 
its name here. A Mr. Williams was its English propa- 
gator. It suits the Peninsula climate admirably, and as 
it will ripen into a delicious pear if pulled only two- 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 233 

thirds grown, we can throw it into the northern markets 
early, in average seasons, and thus get good prices, and 
when peaches fail, the Bartlett is a bonanza to the 
grower. It does well as Standard or Dwarf ; the trees 
grow very rapidly and they come into bearing very, very 
early, almost as soon as peaches. Fruit large, beautiful 
yellow, with a blush in good exposure, sometimes a little 
russetty ; flesh white, fine grained ; aromatic, juicy, but- 
tery, with a vinous flavor and highly perfumed. These are 
certainly many points of excellence, and they are all de- 
served. Considering its very rapid growth it is a healthy 
tree and free from disease, blighting occasionally, if on 
improper soil or improperly cared for, or if the trees have 
been improperly propagated. 

Rostiezer. — Samuel M. Couper, Esq., of New Castle, 
Del., one of the most enthusiastic and successful amateur 
fruit growers of the Peninsula, fruits the Rostiezer in his 
grounds, and I have seen fine specimens of it there, and 
they taste as well as they look. The tree is vigorous 
and bears full crops. It comes six weeks before the 
Seckel, and approaches, but does not equal it in flavor. 
Mr. Couper also has the Rtitter, another good pear for 
the autumn, but does not compare with the Rostiezer in 
flavor. Standard. 

Tyson. — Somewhat similar to Rostiezer. A Penn- 
sylvania pear. Fruit medium size ; yellow, russetty, and 
a blush if exposed. Flavor "very good." Standard. 



234 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

Howell. — A Connecticut pear ; to my mind one of the 
best and one of the worst, because I have had no luck 
with it, and probably my Maryland soil dont suit it, and 
I have not tried it in Delaware. It comes in rather late, 
and does best, I believe, as a Dwarf Mine are Stand- 
ards. Fruit large, yellow, russetty, and a blush, if ex- 
posed. Flesh melting, juicy, vinous. Its color is its 
great feature, so purely white when canned, and so, with 
canners, is a favorite. The tree inclines to blight too 
much. 

Lodge. — From about Claymont this pear comes, and 
doubtless had its origin in Delaware, on the property of 
some one of the family whose well-known name it bears, 
It is a sub-acid pear, medium size, green, brown and 
russet colors, stalk long, and the fruit is a little swollen 
at the point. Flesh a little gritty at first, core large, 
good, rich flavor. A very good pear. 

LeConte. — A supposed hybrid of Chinese Snow Pear, 
with some cultivated variety. This pear has come up 
from Georgia with a great flourish of trumpets, and has, 
with the Kieffer, made a charge to carry everything 
before it. In 1856 it is said to have been sent into 
Georgia from a northern nursery, labeled, Chinese Sand 
Pear. It proved not to be the sand pear, but like it, 
would grow from the cutting. (If you are planting 
LeConte, plant none but those raised directly from 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 235 

cuttings. J. J. B.) It grows up like a Lombardy Poplar, 
and bears very young and abundantly, and the fruit is 
large, greenish, with rose tinge in extra specimens, with 
a flavor not '* best " by any manner of means. It may 
do well to can and evaporate, and its size may sell it in 
northern markets as a table pear. It does well as a 
standard only, and Parry says, if bud scions are taken 
from trees budded on the quince to propagate the 
LeConte pear, such trees will do no good. This, he says, 
is true of all the oriental pears ; don't propagate them 
from dwarfs. I have watched the LeConte this year on 
the Peninsula. As to growing, bearing young, bearing 
large crops, and showing fine large fruit, the tree proved 
to be all that is claimed for it, but as to the fruit, fine 
specimens as they were, not a single one of all that I 
opened but proved to be unsound at the core, and unfit 
to eat. If left on the trees they did not ripen well and 
then the softening started, too, at the core. It also 
blossoms early, and may, on that account, be delicate. I 
don't condemn this fine looking pear on the result of one 
season, but I advise peninsula growers not to invest 
largely in it until it has been further proved. Standard. 

Bergamotie (Cadet.) — A good pear, buttery, sweet, 
rich, pale yellow, medium size. Standard. 

Wilmington. — A seedling of Dr. Brinckle. Tree 
grows slowly, medium size fruit, green, yellow, russet, 
aromatic flavor. 



236 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

Belle Lucrative. — Has a great reputation. I have it 
standard in Kent County, Maryland, and dont recom- 
mend it for peninsula field-culture for profit. The soil 
don't suit it, and that is the reason I say don't plant it. 
The pear is peculiar and disappoints often when the soil 
don't please it. 

Duchess. Duchess e d' Angouleme. — Pronounced Do- 
shess-dong-goo-lame. A French pear, found as a seed- 
ling in a hedge in France, near Angers. A great, grand 
pear, and only planted on the quince, and never as stan- 
dard, as the quality of the fruit is uncertain on them. Fruit 
large, sometimes uneven, green or greenish-yellow and 
russetty, and often a beautiful blush, if the exposure has 
been right for the specimen. Flavor and taste delightful, 
and needs only to be properly ripened to be appreciated. 
It needs ripening off the tree and much care is needed, 
with a cool, dark, dry room and close watching. The tree 
grows well, and for the first ten years bears large crops of 
enormous pears. Now just here, one fault of the Duchess 
pear ; at about ten or twelve to fifteen years of age, it 
may let up on the size of its fruit, and give you too many 
knotty small specimens. Here, cultivate freely, fertilize 
heavily, and cut back new wood and prune severely, and 
I tell you from experience, the good old Duchess will 
respond to your call and again make glad your heart. 
The above treatment will also check the tendency to 
dropping its foliage prematurely,which it sometimes does. 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 237 

Bttffum. — A New England pear, and a good one 
on standard or quince. Fruit medium size, deep brown, 
yellowish-green color and reddish and russetty, sweet, 
juicy, and of high flavor ; and I can recommend it to 
peninsula growers for field-culture, especially as a dwarf. 

Louise Bonne, (de Jersey). — Best as a dwarf only. 
A very good pear on some soils. From experience I 
discourage its planting on the penninsula, in field-cul- 
ture. It don't pay to ship, but evaporates very well. 

Boussock. — A Belgian tree, grows well on the penin- 
sula, but. from my own experience, I don't recommend 
it for field-culture for profit. My trees are standards, 
fourteen years old. 

d'Anjou. — A magnificent pear, and does best on 
quince only ; on a competative examination, before the 
National Pomological Society, I think this pear received 
more points for distinctive marks of merit than any 
other pear. It was introduced into this country by 
Marshal P. Wilder. It is late, and of course the ripen- 
ing of it is one of the important points. The tree is 
vigorous, fruit large, color green-russet-reddish and 
brown ; flesh white, semi-coarse, melting, juicy and 
perfumed. The north competes with the peninsula too 
strongly to plant too many of these pears. 

Bosc. — A magnificent pear, and when ripened, as 
have been specimens presented to me by Samuel M. 



238 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

Couper, Esq., they are surpassed, in all that tends to 
make a good pear, by few or none, indeed. Its specimens 
of fruit are usually perfect, and of the highest flavor. It 
bears its fruit singly and not in clusters. Shape of fruit 
pyriform, long, narrow neck, and long body ; surface 
smooth and russetted. Stalk one to two inches long, 
curved, shallow basin. The fruit is rich in flavor, juicy, 
melting, buttery, with a perfume. The tree grows very 
slowly, comes into bearing very late, and gives moderate 
crops ; and. for these reasons, I can't recommend it for 
field-culture. It is a grand pear to plant in handsome 
grounds for your children, or for your grand children. 
Must be double worked on quince. Standard. 

Washington. — An old and highly prized pear in old 
time peninsula homes and some are now standing very, 
very old. Fruit medium size, red dots, yellow surface, 
slightly russeted, long btalk, calyx small, shallow basin. 
Flesh veiy sweet, too sweet for most persons. Perfumed. 
Standard. Must be double worked on quince. 

Urbaniste. — A pear of delicious flavor, and found to 
perfection in the grounds of George Z. Tybout, Esq., 
New Castle Hundred, Delaware, but not to be recom- 
mended for field-culture. It is slightly russeted, with a 
crimson cheek if well exposed to the sun. Standard. 

Dix. — A pear of excellent quality, but comes in 
late, and not to be recommended for field-culture. 
Standard, if on quince must be double worked. 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 239 

Sheldon. — A superb eating pear. Tree vigorous, 
moderate bearer, medium sized fruit, and russet in color, 
and a little blush if well sunned ; of a rich, aromatic 
flavor. Standard. If we want this pear as a dwarf, it 
must be what the nurserymen call double worked. The 
Sheldon won't take on the quince well, therefore this 
year we bud, on the quince, a pear that takes well on it, 
and let it grow to next spring, and then cut it off a few 
inches above the quince and bud the Sheldon on this 
pear stock, and it takes, after all this time and trouble, 
and makes a good but high priced dwarf tree. Double 
worked trees are not, as a rule, long lived. 

Riitter. — Spoken of under Rostiezer. This pear 
bears its fruit like strings of onions, and such pears, as a 
rule, only bear good crops every other year. 

Butter Pear. — An old fashioned, popular fruit, for 
family use on the peninsula. Cracks badly in field-cul- 
ture, and is not desirable. 

Clairgean. — A large, handsome pear, reddish brown 
and cinnamon towards the sun. Flavor variable ; not 
always good, and not desirable for field culture. 

Seckel. — -Without doubt the most luscious and 
exquisitely flavored pear that grows on the Peninsula. 
Fruit small, skin russeted and greenish, and often a blush 
on the cheek, where it greets the rising sun. The most 



240 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

beautiful of Pear trees. Rather a slow grower v/hen 
young, and late coming in, but after it does come in, it 
bears large and regular crops. It must be regularly and 
thoroughly tilled and fertilized if we want fine specimens. 
In yards, isolated trees do well in grass, if they have a 
moist, rich soil, but in the field they need high culture. 

Kieffer. — This pear has made a sensation in the 
pear world ; has been sent out by interested growers 
with a great flourish, as blight-proof, and the finest 
looking, most elegant, most luscious pear the light of sun 
ever shone upon. It should, according to Parry, be 
spelled " Kieffer," and then according to German rules 
should be pronounced Key-fer. Thomas spells it Keiffer 
and then it should be pronounced Ky-fer. I believe the 
originator spells his name as Parry has given it, and I 
call the pear Key-fer. Fruit large, oval, swollen out in 
the middle, and contracting to a conical shape at each 
end. When ripe, is a beautiful yellow, and with a lovely 
blush of red towards the sun. Really a very handsome 
pear. Flesh coarse, as a rule, in some specimens, fine, 
and the best of them are only poor as an eating pear. 
Ripens late in the Autumn. Tree a very, very vigorous 
grower and bears large crops when very young. At 
four years' old my largest standards picked a basket to 
the tree. Now as to the uses of this pear. It is beauti- 
ful for decorative purposes, and, I have no doubt, will do 
well to can and to evaporate, too. As to its eating qual- 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 24I 

ities, I see one good authority quoted as saying, it was 
surpassed in lusciousness of flavor, or some such expres- 
sion, by no pear he had ever eaten ; nonsense ; that 
man's enthusiasm had run away with his judgment. It 
will never sell on its merits as an eating pear, but I 
believe it will be a profitable pear to raise in moderation, 
on the Peninsula, in field-culture, both as Standard and 
Dwarf. // is not blight-proof. I have seen the Kieffer 
blight ; and believe, as now propagated, it will blight, 
and probably freely. 

It is supposed to be a hybrid from the Chinese sand 
pear and Bartlett. The original tree is in the yard of 
Peter Kieffer, Philadelphia, and was planted in the year 
1868, and is, therefore, eighteen years old. I have no 
doubt the trees propagated directly from Kieffer's tree 
may be blight-proof, for I have confidence in raising 
blight-proof trees from healthy stock, but the Kieffer 
pear trees now put out, budded or grafted on Seedlings 
raised from seed of, we don't know what kind of pears, 
are not blight-proof, nor is any other pear so propagated. 
To check blight, we want to commence right here at the 
seed, and sooner or later we must do it. They claim for 
the Kieffer that it is a very strong and rapid growing 
tree ; true. That it is the least liable to disease ; doubt- 
ful. That it is best adapted to all climates and positions ; 
this may be true. That it is the earliest bearer ; this 
may be true. That it is the most productive ; this may 
J,6 



242 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

be true. That it has no off-years in bearing ; probably 
true. That the fruit is large and well colored ; true. 
That it keeps well ; probably true. That it cans well 
and ships well ; probably true. That it sells at the 
highest market price. It sells well as a novelty, I admit. 
I say plant some Kieffer's, they promise well. I will 
close this description with a paraphrase of Moore's well 
known couplet, which expresses exactly my idea of the 
eating qualities of the Kieffer pear. 

" Extol it, ripen it, just as you will, 
The taste of the sand peai- will hang round it still." 

Garbers Hybrid. — A hybrid pear from Columbia, 
Pennsylvania, crossed on the Chinese sand pear, or sup- 
posed to be. Not well known. 

Lawrence. — Next to the Bartlett. this is probably 
the most valuable pear for Peninsula field-culture ; origi- 
nated on Long Island. Tree very hardy, and rarely, if 
ever, blights. Grows well but straggling. Bears early 
and abundantly. Fruit medium size, very smooth and 
regular. Color, when ripe, lemon yellow, and with some, 
russet and brown. Stalk medium and calyx open. Flesh 
white, juicy, sweet, with an exquisite aromatic flavor and 
aroma. If I planted any Standard pear tree for field- 
culture, it would be the Lawrence, but the Dwarf does 
very well indeed, as I have said before in another part of 
this book. The Lawrence can be kept until Christmas 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 243 

in this latitude. It bears every year, but the crop is 
heaviest, as a rule, every other year. It must be watched 
closely in the detention house, and if you see a small, 
black speck near the calyx or blossom end of the fruit, 
that pear is not going to keep, and should be marketed 
at once. 

Vicar of Winkfield. — A late pear, for cooking and 
preserving. Every tree blights and communicates it to 
other trees in the orchard. Never touch it to plant on 
the Peninsula, and I would like to see every tree of this 
variety now planted here, dug out, root and branch and 
burned. The finest specimens I ever saw were grown 
by John Bacon on Union street, New Castle, on an 
isolated tree in a grass plot. Like most isolated pear 
trees it appears to thrive whether cultivated or not. 

Winter Nelis, Standard. If on quince, must be 
double worked ; a Flemish pear and highly esteemed, 
North. On the Peninsula, it drops its foliage, and is not 
satisfactory. A grand winter pear where it grows well, 
and I recommend its further trial here. 

Easter. — A very late winter pear, not much tried 
here, and ought to succeed, but is not sure as to quality 
or quantity. It is very fine in the spring when well 
ripened. Yellow, green, brown and russet. On quince, 
only. 



244 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

Sha Lea. — Chinese sand pear which is supposed to 
have produced the Kieffer, having been fertilized by the 
Bartlett. Medium size, round pyriform, greenish yellow 
with russet markings. Is not a choke, but yet has no 
pear flavor, and is only a little better than the quince, to 
eat. Is a good pear to preserve. 

Suet Lea. — Chinese snow pear, and is supposed to 
have produced the Le Conte, having had its blossom 
fertilized by one of our native pears. Is mnch like Sha 
Lea. 

Dahnyo, Mikado, Cin cin cis — Are all Japanese pears, 
much like the Chinese sand pears, but generally ripen 
later and are only fit for cooking. 

Hawaii. — Sandwich Island pear, and probably after 
the style of the Oriental pears. 

If rabbits trouble your trees, rub each tree two feet, 
from the ground up, with a piece of raw liver, once in two 
weeks. Blood frightens rabbits. For mice, throw a 
mound of pure earth about a foot high around each tree, 
and after each snow, tramp around the trees. Remove 
the earth in the spring. If a tree be girdled by mice or 
rabbits, graft the end of small twigs or branches below 
the girdle and carry the other end up and graft in above 
the girdle. Several of these may be necessary for a 
large tree. If an old tree you wish to save inclines to 
fall, plant a young pear tree each side, a foot or two from 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 245 

it ; when the young trees are well rooted, cut off the 
tops and graft them into the trunk of the tree you wish 
to save, and it will begin to derive sustenance, and sup- 
port too, from the new trees as soon as the grafts take. 



Chapter XIII. 



THE PROPER LIST OF VARIETIES FOR DIFFERENT KINDS 
OF ORCHARDS. 

For a Peninsula family orchard of fifty Standard 
trees. 

Lawson or Comet i 

Summer Doyenne 2 

Manning's Elizabeth 5 

Ott 2 

Bloodgood 3 

Rostiezer 3 

Tyson 2 

Bartlett 10 

Howell 2 

Bosc I 

Sheldon 2 

Rutter I 

Seckel 3 

Kieffer 3 

. Lawrence . . 8 

Winter Nelis 2 

Total 50 



248 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

This list will give pears from early summer to early 
spring. I omit Madeline because it blights so badly. 
I put in Rostiezer for its Seckel-like flavor, and Rutter 
for its good quality and productiveness, and Howell for 
its beauty, preserved or canned. I add Bosc for my per- 
sonal admiration of the fruit, well ripened, and Lawson 
as a novelty. The others go in on their known merits. 

A Standard pear orchard of two hundred and fifty 
trees for the production of fancy specimens of the fruit. 

This orchard must receive the highest culture of 
every kind, and the owner must even sit up of nights 
with it, if he wants to shine at the "Fair." 

Lawson or Comet 5 

Summer Doyenne 20 

Manning's Elizabeth 20 

Sugar Pear 5 

Ott 5 

Dearborn's Seedling .... 5 

Bloodgood 10 

Julienne 5 

Bell 5 

Bartlett 34 

Rostiezer [Q 

Tyson 5 

Howell ID 

Le Conte % 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 249 

Belle Lucrative 5 

Boussock 5 

Bosc 5 

Urbaniste 5 

Sheldon lO 

Rutter 10 

Seckel 15 

Kieffer lO 

Lawrence 30 

Winter Nelis 10 

Sha Lea i 

Total 250 

An orchard of one thousand Standard pear trees for 
Peninsula field-culture for profit. 

Lawson or Comet 25 

Summer Doyenne 50 

Manning's Elizabeth 25 

Bartlett 400 

Seckel 25 

Kieffer 100 

Lawrence 375 

Total 1000 

A family Dwarf pear orchard of fifty trees, for the 
Delaware and Chesapeake Peninsula. 

Lawson or Comet i 

Manning's Elizabeth 2 



250 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

Bartlett 12 

Howell 5 

Duchess 5 

Buffum 3 

d'Anjou 5 

Kieffer 2 

Lawrence . .10 

Easter . 5 

Total 50 

Wm. Parry says be careful how you buy the Kieffer 
Dwarf, and that no Kieffer tree, Standard or Dwarf, must 
be budded or grafted from a Dwarf tree, as the quince is 
fatal to the proper propagation of all Oriental pear trees. 
Others deny this. 

A Dwarf Pear orchard of two hundred and fifty 
trees, to give fancy specimens of fruit. This orchard 
must receive every attention, and the very highest cul- 
ture in every detail. 

Lawson or Comet , 10 

Manning's Elizabeth 20 

Bartlett 50 

Howell 50 

Duchess . 50 

Buffum 20 

d'Anjou 20 



PEACk AND THE PEAR. 251 

Kieffer 20 

Lawrence 5^ 

Eastern 10 

Total 250 

A Peninsula Dwarf Pear Orchard of one thousand 
trees, for field-culture, for profit. 

Lawson or Comet 25 

Mannings' Elizabeth S^ 

Bartlett 500 

Buffum 50 

d'Anjou 50 

Kieffer 25 

Lawrence '. 300 



Total 1000 

When you come to plant your orchard you will find 
much said, in nurserymen's catalogues, and other places, 
about planting Standards and Dwarfs together — such as 
Standards thirty to forty feet apart and a row of Dwarfs 
between — don't do it. The Standard and Dwarf Pear- 
tree demand entirely different culture and treatment, 
and they should be planted in blocks entirely separate 
and distinct. 

THE SOIL AND SITE FOR THE PEAR ORCHARD. 
The very best soil for the pear is a strong loam with 
some sand, and a porous, open, clay sub-soil, red or 



252 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

yellow. The sub-soil must be dry, and should not be 
over forty feet to water. The pear will adapt itself to 
almost any soil, but it won't thrive in all soils. Don't 
plant your pears in a wet soil unless very thoroughly 
surface-drained, and under-drained ; and a soil too deep 
and rich may force the trees, give premature wood, and 
this wood will not stand fruit-bearing. I should prefer 
an unprotected northeastern exposure, or, really an 
unprotected exposure all around, with the site as level 
as possible to give good drainage. I believe an unpro- 
tected pear orchard has the best chance for its bloom to 
escape early spring frosts, on account of the backening 
of the blossoms. Yet I believe this question of clear 
exposure needs close study, as I have seen some 
orchards do wonderfully well, and keep especially free 
from blight, where they had been thoroughly protected 
on all sides, except the southeast. Any one wishing to 
protect an orchard can do it by peach trees twenty feet 
apart, or by evergreens, or by osage orange, or more 
profitably, perhaps, by the d'Amalis Pear planted as a 
hedge four feet apart. The soil and aspect for the 
orchard will be also suitable for the nursery soil. In cul- 
tivating nursery stock they should not be forced too 
much, and should not be manured by green manures, but 
all fertilizers that are applied should have passed 
through the fermenting stages. Water near the pear 
orchard, I think an advantage, and especially fresh 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 253 

water, for this will freeze and reduce temperature. Water 
to northeast to east is best. 

WHEN TO PLANT. 
On the peninsula, plant pears in fall or spring, really 
a matter of convenience. If you plant in the fall, begin 
Nov. 1st, sure, as you will avoid early cold, and your 
trees will get well packed by rains before freezing 
weather comes upon them. 

DISTANCE APART FOR PEAR TREES, STANDARDS AND 
DWARFS, WHEN SET IN THE ORCHARD. 

Standard trees should be set thirty feet apart each 
way, and Dwarf trees should be set ten feet by fifteen 
feet, although many set them ten feet by ten feet, which 
is too close. Twelve feet by twelve feet is better than 
ten by ten ; and many sucessful growers plant twelve by 
twelve. As I have said before, never plant Standards 
and Dwarfs together ; put them in separate blocks. 

TO PLANT STANDARDS. 
Plant so as to expose the fruit as much of it as 
possible to the rising sun. Do this, also, with any other 
fruit tree and you will get the best color. Dig the hole 
deep enough to take the tap-root straight, and wide 
enough to take the laterals without cramping, and also 
make the hole deep enough to plant the tree as deep as 
it was in the nursery. Now set the tree, fill up one- 
third with soil and tramp well, seeing that the roots are 



254 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

right ; now fill up another third with soil and tramp well, 
and now fill up entirely and tramp well, and lastly, 
throw a little soil as a small bank around the tree. It 
will be seen here no sub-soil has been used ; we take 
the soil from the ground around the tree, and then 
scatter the sub-soil in its place. Before we plant the 
tree we should cut off clean, all broken or bruised roots* 
and all broken or bruised limbs. 

Planting the Dzvarf tree differs somewhat in method 
from planting the Standard tree. Dig the holes as for 
Standards and plant in the same way, except, set the 
Dwarf tree not more than five, and not less than three 
inches below where it has been grafted to the quince. 
Now the pear stalk will throw out first, hair roots, then 
rootlets, and at last, full roots, and the tree will become 
a-half Standard, and be a better tree, stand up in storms 
better, and live longer than with the quince root alone. 
Some growers, in order to urge the starting of the pear 
roots, nick the bark of the pear-stalk in one or more 
places before setting. The argument is that nature will 
then become active here to repair the wound, and, hence, 
a root will grow sooner at this point ; or, if the Dwarf 
pear tree don't grow well after a year or two, scratch 
the dirt away from the roots and slit the bark in a few 
places and replace the dirt ; then the pear roots will 
start. Now we have the orchard planted ; what shall 
we do with it until it comes in .' In Standards, plant a 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 255 

little corn, or potatoes, or raspberries, and in Dwarfs 
you may do the same, or cabbage, beans, and some 
garden crops. I object to cropping young fruit orchards 
to any great extent. They, as a rule, require all the 
plant-food present, and are not able to share it and 
thrive themselves. Whatever you plant among young 
pears, don't plant strawberries. 

PRUNING THE STANDARD TREES. 
One year old trees from the nursery don't want 
much cutting when planted, as a rule, unless the tree is 
too long, then retrench it to three or four feet. If two 
years old when set, the best start is for a pyramidal tree ; 
and here, retrenching the top somewhat will start a 
better sap-flow to the lower branches. Each lower 
branch should be kept a little longer than the one above 
it. Watch, in pruning, the position of the buds ; don't 
cut too near them or the branch they form will be weak. 
If you want a shoot to run directly upward, let the bud 
be on the inside of the shoot. If you want a limb to 
run in or out, select the bud on the side you want the 
shoot to grow. When a young tree is set, trim off the 
limbs to the number of one to every three, and here 
again, let each limb extend a little within the one under 
it. Three years of such training will be about all that 
is required for Bartletts, Duchess, and such sorts as 
naturally go to pyramidal growth, in field-culture. The 
Lawrence and Winter Nelis, and such kind, need longer 



256 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

attention, as they grow their limbs in a straggling way. 

After the primary training of standards, we only 
keep the middles clear to let in the sun, and retrench if 
the trees bear too much wood, or trim again, as they say, 
for fruit. Trim pears in the spring or late winter for 
wood. If for fruit, prune in the summer. Above all 
things don't be too active in cutting your Standard Pear 
Trees, at any season. The wounds made by pruning had 
best be painted over by Copal Varnish, or common lead 
paint, or covered by grafting wax, especially if such 
wounds are extensive. 1 believe the usual custom on 
the peninsula is to trust them to nature, and I have not 
often seen bad results. 

PRUNING DWARF TREES. 

When you set out a Dwarf Pear Tree, if in the Fall, 
let it remain until the coming spring, and then cut off 
the top (if it is a one year old tree) to within from 
eighteen inches to three feet from the ground, depending 
on the size of the tree. Cut off lateral branches if any. 
For a two year old, cut by the rules given for Standard. 
As the Dwarf grows rapidly and receives high culture, it 
makes wood rapidly, and often it is well to cut back the 
new wood of the year one-third to one-half, before 
growth starts in the spring, and thus improve both the 
tree and the fruit. Do this until the trees are four years 
old. Dwarf trees, as a rule, start off better than Stan- 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 257 

dards. I have planted eight hundred Dwarfs at one 
planting, and never lost one. In an average season, 
twenty-five dead, out of one thousand Standards planted, 
would be doing fairly well. 



Chapter XIV 



CULTIVATING THE PEAR ORCHARD. 



THE STANDARD ORCHARD. 

Before speaking of cultivating the orchard, I will 
refer to one point, It does not pay to top-graft an 
apple orchard after it is thirty years old, but pear trees 
are much longer lived, particularly Standards, and while 
there is life in the root of a pear tree, bad or good, it is 
worth caring for and grafting. Cut off the tree, and the 
stump will send out suckers ; bud or graft these and you 
may get a good tree ; also, you can top-graft old pear 
trees, say one-third the tree each year, and thus change 
them, and in the same way you may top-graft younger 
trees. 

The pear needs high culture, as a rule, and 
especially, Dwarf pears. In 1871 there were supposed to 
be on the Peninsula, fifteen thousand pear trees. It is 
all conjecture with me, but since that time, say there 
have been planted on an average fifteen thousand trees 
per year. Now, from 1871 to the present time, say 



26o THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

ninety thousand pear trees have died, from various 
causes ; at this rate there may still be one hundred and 
forty to fifty thousand pear trees still living. Certainly 
such mortality shows the pear to be a tree requiring 
great and extraordinary attention. The pear is a 
regular bearer ; fails, I should say, not oftener than once 
in ten years, and, with extra care, even this off-year 
may prove fruitful. The Peninsula pear crop may now 
reach, as a yearly average, seventy five thousand 
baskets, but, like all my statistics, this is conjecture, for 
I can get no date ; not even from the Census Bureau at 
Washington. 

As to the cultivation of the pear orchard, when 
determined not to keep it in sod, plough not over four 
inches, in the middle of the rows, and throw a furrow to 
the trees. After a day or two plough again, very shallow, 
and throw the furrows back to the trees. Now harrow, 
and then keep the cultivators going not over two 
inches deep, until the fruit, bending the limbs down, 
interferes with the progress of the horses. This will be 
from the 20th of June to the ist of July. Some plough 
in the fall, saying it destroys the pests preying on the 
trees, and prevents them from coming next year. It, 
probably, don't destroy many such and makes the growth 
of new wood too succulent, which may be likely to 
blight next year. This same trouble comes, I feel 
assured, by fall fertilizing too, especially with green 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 26l 

manures. All pear trees, especially after they have 
become lO to 12 years old, have great mats of roots, 
rather superficial ; so now at this age and after it, unless 
your trees are making too much wood, and you wish to 
root prune them ; watch your ploughing very closely 
and make it very shallow. 

Shall we cultivate Standards every year ? Watch 
them well, so long as they do well ; make strong non- 
succulent wood and plenty of it, and bear good fruit and 
large crops ; cultivate them yearly. If making too much 
wood, and it succulent and not firm, and inclined to 
blight, throw your trees into sod. Now watch them 
closely ; if the wood stops growing, and the fruit 
becomes knotty and small, as it is very apt to do, then 
plough up the orchard in the spring, sow down to clover, 
and the next June a year, turn this clover under ; 
and after that, cultivate every year until trouble comes 
again. The only objection I have to turning down green 
clover in June is, that in fermenting, it may prove a 
nidus for bacteria, like green manures in general, so I 
would watch this plan and see if it was followed by 
excess of blight. 

THE DWARF PEAR 

needs, certainly, thorough cultivation, and that every 
year, just as directed for Standards. 

If your trees are not doing well, see if they are 



262 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

being forced too much, by examining the length and 
quality of the new wood, and also watch if fruit is 
lessening from the trees going to wood. If that is found 
to be the case, I would cease cultivation for one year, or 
two years at most, and in its stead mulch the whole 
orchard with three tons to the acre of straw, salt hay, or 
some such material. Now, at the end of one or two 
years, as the case may be, plough up the orchard in the 
spring, sow down to clover, and then, the following June 
a year, plough under the clover, and then from that time 
go on with high cultivation and high fertilizing, until 
similar circumstances demand a change. It may also be 
necessary to watch the new wood, and at times if of too 
free growth, cut it back. 

The Standard orchard, whilst in sod, may be 
mulched around trees and fertilized on the sod ; or either 
may be used alone. 

fertilizing the standard pear orchard. 

Rule 1. 

For trees of a bearing age :— Should the longest 
shoots of new wood measure i8 inches, and the medium 
shoots 12 inches, and the shortest shoots 8 inches, giving 
a general average of I2| inches, and should the fruit 
spurs, (I mean the fruit spurs proper.) average not less 
than one and a-half inches in length, and look robust 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 263 

and hearty, with good color, for such trees no fertilizing 
is needed for the coming crop of fruit. 

Rule TI. 

Should the general average be reduced by, say three 
inches, and the fruit buds reduced one half inch — with 
lack of healthy color and plumpness — then the tree 
needs phosphoric acid and potash for the coming crop of 
fruit. 

Rule III. 

Should the general average of Rule i be reduced 
by from four to six inches, and the fruit buds be stumpy 
and shrunken in appearance, then the tree needs phos- 
phoric acid, potash and ammonia, and probably some 
iron, in order to mature well the coming crop of fruit. 

For fertilizing Dwarf Pears, the same rules may be 
applied, reducing the general average of new wood, say, 
three inches in Rule I, two inches in Rule II, and one 
inch in Rule III, and allowing the fruit spurs to remain 
without alteration. 

The Standard pear needs fertilizing on good ground, 
certainly, not every year as a rule, and I should say a 
good dressing of potash, phosphoric acid, ammonia and 
some iron, perhaps, applied every three to five years 
should be sufficient ; still, in all this you must be guided 



26]. THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

by your examination of each tree, and then apply your 
rules. If the tree comes on to spring from a late, wet 
and warm autumn, with a large growth of succulent 
wood, then you must make some exception to Rule i, 
for to mature this wood an extra dose of fertilizer may 
be needed, or all this boggy, sappy wood may be 
attacked by blight in the warm weather of the following 
summer. The fall of 1884 made poor wood and little of 
it, and the trees, generally, needed fertilizing in the 
spring of 1885. The fall of 1885 has made much wood, 
as a rule, on good trees, yet I don't think it sappy and 
succulent, because the whole tree has prospered, and the 
wood-outlook and fruit spurs give promise of a good 
crop in 1886. If a tree has been badly mutilated in 
cutting off blight, then fertilize that tree well, for it 
wants extra food to make up for its loss of substance ; 
it wants new blood and plenty of it. I believe rather in 
individual fertilizing of pear trees ; keep a record of poor 
bearers and try and force them. Apply the fertilizer 
around the tree in the spring as far as the branches 
extend, and apply what the tree demands by the rules 
given. Don't put strong potash right at the root of 
young trees, but after they have borne a crop, all maybe 
applied right at the roots ; probably some care may be 
necessary in using pure muriate of potash. 

I am not in favor of using as a fertilizer on pear 
orchards, either lime as generally used in agriculture, or 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 265 

green manures — manures in which fermentation is still 
going on. The reasons for this have been given when 
speaking of the diseases of the peach, and will be 
referred to again when I come to treat of the diseases of 
the pear. The pear, like the peach, needs phosphoric 
acid — potash, ammonia, and sometimes iron — and these, 
with chlorine, may be applied in many shapes. The 
prepared or artificial fertilizers, come in all shapes, and 
are to be preferred. I like kainit, applied just as I have 
recommended for peaches — and as there, we may mix it 
with acid phosphate, one quarter or even one-half its 
bulk, or weight, and apply broadcast or by drilling, after 
ploughing in the spring, and then harrowing it in. Use 
as much as you choose for pears, 200 lbs. to 1000 lbs. 
per acre, as occasion may require. Use muriate of 
potash alone — 3 to 5 lbs. to 10 lbs. to the tree, applied in 
the spring, and harrowed in — or apply the potash mixed 
with acid phosphate, 125 to 200 lbs. to the ton, and 
drilled in in the spring, 200 lbs. to 1000 lbs. per acre. 
Any good phosphate may be used, containing phosphoric 
acid, potash and ammonia, drilled in in the spring, after 
ploughing and harrowing, 200 lbs. to 1000 lbs. per acre. 
Bone meal is good, but I prefer it undivided, as it acts 
quicker. If you think your trees need iron, apply it as 
in peaches. Sometimes liquid manures ; these same fer- 
tilizers dissolved in water and applied little and often, 
may be used with good effect to force large specimens of 



266 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

fruit, but we can't carry this out in practical field culture. 
Rain water, light, heat, etc., all do their part in growing 
the pear, and have been explained in their relations to 
growth, when we were speaking of the peach. In fact, 
the fertilizing of the pear differs very little, if any. from 
the fertilizing of the peach, and as all this has been 
fully treated of under the head of the latter fruit, nothing 
more need be said here. 

For formulae for fertilizers, see those given for 
peaches. They are all equally useful for the pear, and 
are to be applied to them in the same way, and in the 
same quantities, more or less, as to peaches. 

Salt is good applied to pear trees as a fertilizer. It 
gives chlorine, etc., and is detrimental to the slug and 
other pests. Formerly, I used it to a considerable 
extent, but since kainit has become cheap and obtain- 
able, I rely, generally, on the salt contained in it. 

TREE WASHES FOR PEARS. 

Use the washes recommended for peaches; also, 
one pound caustic potash to one gallon water. Apply 
with a whitewash brush late in March, or in April. 
This is too strong for buds and small twigs. 

Another : Caustic soda, one pound, water, one 
gallon. Use as the other wash. This may touch the 
buds and small shoots, and will, probably, not injure 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 267 

them. These washes act as fertilizers and pest destroyers. 
The same variety of pear varies very much in different 
soils, and because a variety is not fine on the Peninsula, 
is no reason it may not be good in New England, 
although there are few varieties that will not flourish 
and give good flavor, size and color here. Should any 
be found deficient, study them well and experiment with 
fertilizing them, and you will, doubtless, be rewarded by 
good returns. The cracking of fruit is usually produced 
by a fungus, and will be treated of under enemies of 
the pear. Should the cracking be noticed as the pears 
mature, apply salt around the base of the tree, a pint or 
quart to the tree. 



Chapter XV. 



DISEASES AND ENEMIES OF THE PEAR. 

The diseases and enemies of the pear are many and 
various, and I shall take them up and treat of them in the 

following order : 

Fire Blight, 

Twig Blight, 

Frozen Sap Blight. 
Blight : \ Frost Blight. 

Insect Blight. 

Leaf Blight. 
I Blight of Fruit. 
The Slug. 
Bark Lice. 
Scale Insects. 
Curculio. 
The Elements. 
Starvation. 
Overfeeding. 
Cracking of the Fruit. 
Decaying of the Fruit. 
The Borer and other Insects. 
Premature Shedding of Foliage. 
Frost, 
Cracking of the Bark. 



270 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

Before going further I will give an analysis of the 
heart wood, the sap wood, the bark and the fruit. 

Analysis of the Heart Wood. 

Potash 27.00 

Soda 

Lime 23.14 

Magnesia 3.00 

Sulphuric Acid O.45 

Phosphoric Acid 10.40 

Phosphate of Iron 80 

Analysis of the Sap Wood. 

Potash 22.25 

Soda 1.84 

Chlorine .... - . 0.3 1 

Sulphuric Acid 0.50 

Phosphate of Lime 27.22 

Phosphate of Peroxide of Iron 0.31 

Carbonic Acid 27.69 

Lime 12.64 

Magnesia 3.00 

Silex 0.30 

Organic Matter 4.02 

A nalysis of the Bark. 

Potash 6.20 

Soda 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 2/1 

Chlorine 1. 70 

Sulphuric Acid. 1,80 

Phosphate of Lime 6.50 

Phosphate of Peroxide of Iron 

Carbonic Acid 37-39 

Lime . . 30.36 

Magnesia 9.40 

Silex. 0.42 

Organic Matter 4,18 

Analysis of the Ash of the Pear Fruit. 

Potash 5470 

Soda 8.32 

Lime 7.97 

Magnesia 5.22 

Sulphuric Acid .\ 5.66 

Silicic Acid 1.49 

Phosphoric Acid 14-31 

Phosphate of Iron ... i .96 

All these analyses will be seen to be of importance 
when we come to treat of the remedies for the diseases of 
the trees, and are useful to refer to when reading of fer- 
tilizing the trees, and might have been given in that 
Chapter. 

The first of the diseases of the Pear to be treated 
of is blight, the scourge of scourges with which the pear 
is afflicted. 



^72 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

FIRE BLIGHT. 

This form of blight comes rapidly, and is a sudden 
withering of the wood and bark, preceded by the black- 
ening of the leaves, and may confine itself to one or 
more limbs, or involve, rapidly, the whole tree. 

The part of the tree left not afiected, is apparently 
in perfect health. The first attacks oi fire blight come 
with the first hot weather, yet in the spring, the bark, 
if thoroughly examined, will show dry, dark spots, and 
the sap will appear thicker than natural. Heretofore 
this form of blight has been supposed to have been 
caused by a wet, warm autumn forcing a large amount 
of succulent wood, and this wood not being matured, falls 
an easy prey to blight on the advent of hot weather. I 
will give my ideas of its cause further on. 

TWIG BLIGHT 
is about the same disease as fire blight, affecting leaves 
and twigs only. 

FROZEN SAP BLIGHT. 

Symptoms are, in the spring, thick sap, wood rather 
dryer than natural when cut across ; dead, dark patches 
of bark on the branches. The parts affected shrivel and 
turn black on the approach of warm weather. The heart- 
wood will be found dead below where the outside bark 
appears healthy ; so in cutting you m.ust go several inches 
below the apparent dead wood. Downing accounts for 



PE\CH AND TIIH TEAR. 2/3 

these severe forms of blig-ht as follows, but he docs not 
go far enough to find the real cause : In every tree 
there are two currents of sap, one up, through the outer 
wood or alburnum to be digested by the leaves, the other 
downward, which descends through the inner bark or 
liber, forming a deposit of new wood on its passage down. 
Now the summer before the tree blights, is followed by a 
damp and warm autumn preceding an early and severe 
winter. The summer was dry and the wood growth was 
completed early, but the damp, warm autumn forced the 
tree-wood to a second growth, which continued late. 
Now while the sap vessels are still full of their fluid, a 
sharp freeze comes, and this is repeated for several nights, 
followed in the day time by bright sun. The descend- 
ing current of sap becomes thick and clammy so as to 
come down with difficulty ; it chokes up the sap vessels, 
freezes and thaws again, loses its vitality and becomes 
dark and discolored, and in some cases so poisonous as 
to destroy the leaves of other plants when applied to 
them. Here, along the inner bark, it lodges and remains 
thick and sticky all winter. If it happens to flow down 
until it meets with any obstruction and remains in any 
considerable quantity, it freezes again beneath the bark, 
ruptures and destroys the sap vessels, and the bark and 
some of the wood beneath it shrivel and die. In the 
coming spring the upward current of sap rises through its 
ordinary channel, the outer wood or alburnum, the leaves 
j8 



2/4 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

expand, and, for some time, nearly all the upward current 
being taken up to form leaves and new shoots, the tree 
appears flourishing. Toward the beginning of summer, 
however, the leaves commence sending the downward 
current of sap to increase the woody matter of the stem. 
This current has to pass down through the inner bark or 
liber along which still remain portions of the poisoned 
sap, arrested in its course the previous fall. This poison 
is diluted and taken up by the new downward current, 
distributed toward the pith and along the new layers of 
alburnum, thus tainting all the neighboring parts. 
Should any of the adjacent sap vessels have been ruptured 
by frost, so the poison thus becomes mixed with the still 
ascending current of sap, the branch above it immedi- 
ately turns black and dies, precisely as though poison 
had been introduced under the bark. In a note in Down- ' 
ing, he quotes Duhamel as saying : The sap corrupted 
by putrid water or excess of manure, bursts the cellular 
membranes in some places, extends itself between the 
wood and the bark, which it separates and carries its 
poisonous acrid influences to all the neighboring parts 
like a gangrene. Now these descriptions are graphic 
and true to nature, and the causes given are plausible as 
far as they go, indeed, I believe are true, but they just 
stop short of the real cause, as will be seen further on. 
Pears which mature their wood early, as the Seckel and 
Duchess, making short and firm joints, are the pears 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 2/5 

which are freest from blight, as will readily appear from 
what has been said. 

FROST BLIGHT 
does not differ from the blight we have been speaking of. 

INSECT BLIGHT. 

In May and June, shoots at the ends of branches, 
extending not beyond the wood of two years growth, 
turn dark in color, and the leaves soon turn black, and 
the wood becomes shriveled and very hard. Where 
this blight starts, or near it, will be found the cause. It 
is caused by the egg of a beetle, (Scolytus Pyri,) 
deposited there the year before, in July. The beetle is 
small, deep brown, with light brown limbs. Thorax 
short and studded with bristles. The wings have 
punctured points, and between these points are rows of 
bristles. The egg, having been deposited the year 
before, hatches either then, or next May or June, on 
the Peninsula, and then the small grub or larva bores 
through the sap wood, going in at the root of a bud, 
and burrows toward the centre of the limb. The branch 
dies beyond the burrow, and we have insect blight. 
The grub now completes his transformation and passes 
out, and we have the beetle again, as heretofore 
described, and on it goes to lay its eggs, and thus with 
it the wheel of nature revolves. 



2/6 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

LEAF BLIGHT 

has been spoken of in connection with nursery stock, 
and comes from crowding the trees, and may be 
avoided by thinning them. It checks the growth of the 
trees for the year. A fungus is often found on the 
leaves, and is supposed to be a cause, as it is also of 
cracking of fruit in certain varieties, in certain localities. 

BLIGHT OF FRUIT. 

The pear fruit, at times, fails to perfect itself, and 
blights before it is of sufficient size and flavor to eat, and 
this is entirely distinct from natural decay. It may 
attack the pears of any tree, and in any place, and under 
any circumstances, This blight is caused by the presence 
within the pear of Entozoa — Parasites, (animals or vege- 
tables living within the bodies of other animals or 
vegetables. When the fruit is nearly matured, it pits 
and softens under the skin, and an internal rot begins, 
and the fruit decays, rots at the core. Now, this is often 
found coming on good pears, and I suspect the LeConte 
of it in some Peninsula soils. If you can't gather and 
dispose of the fruit for cooking purposes before the 
trouble commences, you will lose it all. As the pear 
gets soft and watery, the parasites come to maturity and 
move about. Put a portion of the pear pulp in muslin 
and press it, and take a drop of the juice that exudes, 
thin it with water, and put it under the microscope, and 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 277 

you will see the little snake-like bodies moving about 
and feeding on the mycelia present in the fluid with 
them. 

Now, having described the different kinds of blight 
affecting the pear, we come to treat of its cause. What is 
the cause of blight ? As in yellows in the peach, I 
believe the cause of each and every form of blight in 
the pear to be bacteria, and I believe that blight 
flourishes most in land that has been enriched by lime 
and green manures, stable manure, barn-yard manure, 
hog manure, and all green matters which have to go 
through fermentation before being resolved into 
their elements, and before they can become food 
for plants and trees. I believe such land with 
such surroundings furnishes the most inviting territory 
for the proliferation, so to speak, of these bacteria, 
and with the crowding of trees into this territory, 
we have here every element for their production, 
for their endurance, and for their life-work. For a 
description of these animals, or vegetables, as they 
may be, I refer the reader to the chapter on Peach- 
Yellows, where he will remember they are described. 
Now when we were describing Fire-Blight, Frozen Sap- 
Blight, etc., had we but added and adduced these 
bacteria as the cause, coming in the sap, under circum- 
stances rendered favorable by succulent growth, freezing, 
by the irregular seasons, and by the heat of spring and 



2/8 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

summer, we should have had the story of the Pear- 
Blight of every kind in a nut shell. We take the 
healthy Pear tree. In this tree there are bacteria, as 
there are in all healthy trees. Now, for some of the 
reasons mentioned, perhaps, or for others, these bacteria 
increase, millions and millions and thousands of millicms, 
in a few hours. Now follows a great stirring up, a fermen- 
tation ; heat is increased, and the sap, instead of being 
good, rich, healthy blood for the tree, is hot, with the 
fever produced by the presence of these disease-germs, 
for such they now are. The digestion of the tree, the 
changing of starch into sugar, the action of the 
chlorine on the leaves, etc., is all interfered with, and 
for reasons of their own, these bacteria congregate in 
one limb or two limbs, (just as in man, under similar 
circumstances, one toe only may become gangrenous,) 
and congregating here, the attacks are so fierce and 
concentrated, that all molecular change is checked, and 
hence, with this stoppage of cell-action comes gangrene, 
death. In a healthy tree these germs probably assist 
the change of starch to sugar, and only are pests when 
increasing rapidly and infinitesimally as they do in 
diseases of animals or vegetables. In Peach-Yellows 
there are enough to sicken the tree, in Pear-Blight they 
come in sufficient numbers to overwhelm and destroy 
at once, and appear elective as to their choice of location, 
not distributing themselves over the whole tree, but select 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 2/9 

their home in one or more branches and here cause a 
very boiHng of the sap, Blight was absent, or very rare, 
on the Peninsula until we commenced to crowd in Pear 
trees, and then, just as with human beings, the minute 
they were crowded, zymotic diseases (bacterial, or fer- 
mentative diseases) appeared, and here is a decided proof 
of its germ origin. If we starve trees we may get blight, 
just as when we crowd and starve numbers of human 
beings, we have typhus fever, measles, typhoid fever, 
and other zymotic diseases, breaking out among them. 
If we over-(eed trees, we may get blight just as we get 
cholera, or, cholera morbus, at least, in man. In seasons 
of changing temperature, of thunder storms, of very 
sudden changes from heat to cold, and vice versa, we 
know pear-blight thrives, and under just such circum- 
stances, we know bacteria increase and multiply, and all 
this is an evidence to me of the bacterial origin of this 
curse on the Pear tree. The peculiar bacterium which 
causes blight has been claimed to have been found by 
Prof. T. J. Burrill of the Illinois Industrial University. 
He calls it the "■Micrococcus Ainylonovus'' and gives 
some description of it which I have not at hand. 
Now given the peculiar germ that causes the trouble, 
the next point is to experiment practically with it. 
These germs can all be increased indefinitely in 
number by artificial culture, in such menstrua as 
beef-tea and gelatinized solutions and such, and they 



280 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

should be so cultivated, and their habits studied. They 
should be inoculated into healthy pear trees, such 
as the Seckel and Duchess, which rarely, if ever 
blight, and then, again, into the Vicar and Clapp's 
Favorite, which almost always blight, sooner or later. 
The leaves and fruit, as well as the bark of the trees, 
should be inoculated, and the results watched and 
studied, and by these means we might get at once the 
history, habits and life of the disease-germ and a remedy 
against its ravages. Who is to do this ? Who can, but 
the State or National Government ? This matter will be 
referred to further on. This pear tree blight is certainly 
a local fungus, and may be be developed by any one of a 
number of causes. As when the wood don't ripen well 
the previous year, and then, next summer, with high 
temperature, with the wood-acid and nitrogenous matter 
present, here will be the soil for the development of the 
blight fungi, or, of one of them, for I believe there may 
be a number coming under different circumstances. 
Stagnant water contains germs and breeds them, that 
may enter the pear-roots and cause blight, and hence, 
drainage must be attended to in the pear orchard, and 
hence, a sandy loam, well drained, is good ground for 
pears. 

REMEDIES FOR PEAR BLIGHT. 

To remedy any disease, find out the cause and 
remove it. If we have found out f/iis cause, it is our 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 28 1 

place to Study it, experiment with it, and do all we 
possibly can to arrest its ravages. 

Science is progressiv^e. I don't despair of success, 
and I believe we are now on the right road to accomplish 
not only in the vegetable world but in the animal, the 
destruction of the right hand weapon of the fell destroyer, 
the invisible, but mighty disease-germ, and I further 
believe that the day is near at hand when each zymotic 
disease will be known by its own peculiar form of 
microbe. 

The great starting place to prevent blight is in the 
seed. Our seedlings, as now raised, are, doubtless, 
grown from seed taken promiscuously from budded fruit 
of all kinds, and are grown in land, perhaps, contiguous 
to orchards containing trees more or less blighted. The 
buds and grafts for these seedlings are taken from trees 
growing among trees diseased as well as healthy, and 
what can we expect as a result ? Certainly only trees 
that will grow up with delicate constitutions, produce 
succulent wood, and holding out inviting hands for an 
early attack of blight. Trees should be raised from 
the seed of the wild, or common choke pears, and buds 
and grafts should be obtained, in turn, only from trees 
raised from the proper seedlings. If the National 
Agricultural Department, at Washington, would devote 
some of its talent and money to the supplying this 
country with healthy seedlings for the pear, and also 



282 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

healthy grafts and buds, it would be doing work worthy 
of the gratitude of the whole country. 

If pear land is damp or wet it should be drained, 
and thus the chances of blight will become less. 

As to shelter, I, as I have said before, prefer an 
open site for the pear orchard, but H. H. McMullen,Esq., 
of New Castle Hundred, has a pear orchard of about 
fifty trees or more, probably 25 years old ; they are 
sheltered by his house, by pine trees and farm buildings 
on all sides, except the southeast. These trees have 
always borne excellent crops, and I believe there has 
never been any blight in them. There are both Dwarf 
and Standard trees, and some of them are of varieties 
that blight frequently in other places. I think this is 
the most satisfactory little pear orchard I have ever 
known. It has been kept well tilled, and fertilized with 
super-phosphates. 

If a tree blights I advise, at once, to cut out every 
trace of it, and several inches of sound wood beyond 
the blight. A bligJited twig, even, should never stay on a 
pear tree twenty-four hours. Have it cut off, carried 
away and burned. Keep one man in your orchard all 
the time, if necessary, in hot weather, to cut out blight, 
carry it out of the orchard and burn it forthwith. After 
you have cut out the blighted wood, slit down the bark 
from the cut (if on a limb) to the main trunk, and then 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 283 

slit the bark of the main trunk on two opposite sides 
from the crotch to the ground, and well down the roots. 
Then dig- out the soil from around the tree, one foot 
deep, and one or two feet from the tree on all sides, and 
sprinkle it well with the carbolic acid tree-wash, and fill 
up the hole with new soil taken from without the orchard, 
apply the carbolic acid tree-wash to the body, and, as 
far as possible, to all the limbs of the tree. Give the 
trees a good dressing, (especially if the wood and fruit- 
buds appear to indicate it by the rules laid down under 
the chapter on fertilizing the orchard) of a fertilizer 
suitable to the case. 

CARBOLIC ACID FRUIT-TREE WASH. 
For five hundred trees — take 
Crude Carbolic Acid, one pint ; 
Strong Whale oil soap, or soft soap, one gallon. 

Mix this with two gallons of boiling water, let it 
stand twenty-four hours, and add seven gallons of rain 
water. R. Peters added soil to thicken it, and the wash, 
before noticed as his wash, may be used instead of this. 
If applied in May and June it will destroy the eggs and 
drive off all kinds of moths. 

I say, don't use green manures if you don't want 
blight. If they are to be used, they should be thoroughly 
composted for a long time until all fermentation has 



284 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

ceased. As to barn-yard manure itself, it don't contain 
phosphoric acid enough to balance the amount of nitro- 
gen it contains, and a dressing of bone or acid phosphate 
after it will always increase any crop, and keep up the 
general condition of the iarm. In general farming I 
advocate, as a rule, the application of all green manures 
to the corn crop, and with it a small dressing of a good 
chemical fertilizer, rich in phosphoric acid ; any good 
acid phosphate will do. Corn is a hog, and will take up 
and utilize plant-food in any shape. As to potatoes 
I advocate raising them with chemical fertilizers, rich in 
phosphoric acid, potash and ammonia. The potato rot, 
I believe, is caused by raising them with green manures, 
and these, fermenting, give every inducement to the 
increase of bacteria, and these cause the decay ; of 
course, other influences, as atmospheric influences, etc., 
come in to help increase the bacteria ; but keep fermen- 
tation down and these other influences won't be sufficient, 
in themselves, to cause such troubles as potato rot. 
For pears needing fertilizing after having been affected 
with blight, you may use any of the formulae I have 
given for peaches or pears in the quantity necessary, or 
you may use kainit, six hundred pounds to the acre, 
or from five to twenty pounds to each tree, or such a 
formula as follows : — 

Muriate Potash, 500 lbs. 

Bone meal, or dissolved bone, 1500 lbs. 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 285 

200 lbs. to 400 lbs. per acre, or from 5 to 20 lbs. to 
each tree. 

Never crop your orchard when blighting. You may 
throw a standard orchard into sod and top dress the 
land, and sometimes check blight ; or sow to clover as 
before recommended, and plough under, the next June a 
year, and watch the result. My objection to lime here 
is, that, as a top dressing, it, in the absence of potash, is 
taken up too freely by the trees for their own good, and 
in sod can't act rapidly enough to liberate the potash 
naturally in the sand and stones of the soil. 

A Dwarf orchard needs the very highest culture, and 
should scarcely ever be thrown into sod. The most I 
would do, would be to seed to clover in the spring, and 
then plough under, the next June a year, and watch it. 
Remember, in pruning diseased fruit trees, always to 
observe the rule I gave when speaking of pruning 
diseased peach trees ; apply to your knife or saw, one of 
the germicides there given, before leaving one tree to go 
to another. Indeed, in pear blight, you ought to 
thoroughly disinfect your instrument, not only between 
trees, but even in going from one limb to another, so 
contagious is this disease. One word more, and I close 
this subject. A grower has in his yard a favorite pear 
tree ; this tree grows in sod, continuously, and bears him 
abundant crops of luscious fruit, and receives no care or 
cultivation, whatever, and never shows signs of blight in 



286 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

any wav. The trees in his orchard, receiving every care 
of cultivation and fertilizing, sadden his heart in yield- 
ing to the destructive influences of that disease, and so 
he argues that they are receiving the wrong treatment, 
and he will leave them to nature, as he does the tree in 
his yard, and they will, necessarily, thrive as it does. 
He is wrong, he is reasoning from false premises. 
Isolated pear trees, as a rule, never blight, they only 
blight when crowded in orchard culture. Here the 
bacteria increase and multiply to the point where they 
become a disease, just as they do under the same cir- 
cumstances with mankind, and this is the reason his 
favorite tree in the yard flourishes, while his orchard- 
trees wither and die. 

THE SLUG. 

Next to blight, the slug is, probably, the most 
serious enemy of the pear on the peninsula, now active. 
Here we call it the slug worm, from its snail-like, slimy 
character. In England they call it the slimy grub of 
the pear tree. Scientists generally speak of it as Harris 
does, as the Sclandria {Blenno Campa) Cerasi. Blenno 
Campa signifies slimy caterpillar. It is a species of saw 
fly, and the above name is the name of the fly. Another 
name is, or rather a name for the slug is, Erio campa 
adumbrata. 

According to Harris, the slug fly is of a glossy black 
color, except the first two pairs of legs, which are dirty 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 28/ 

yellow, with dark colored thighs, and the hind legs 
which are dull black with clay colored knees. The 
wings are convex and rumpled on the upper side, like 
the wings on saw flies, generally. They are transparent, 
reflecting prismatic colors, and have a smoky tinge, form- 
ing a broad band across the middle of the first pair ; 
the veins are brownish. The body of the female is over 
one-fifth of an inch long. The male is smaller. These 
flies appear on the Peninsula in the first very warm 
weather of May or June. They soon begin to lay their 
eggs, and in three weeks, have disappeared. Their eggs 
are placed singly, within small semi-circular incisions 
through the skin of the leaf, and generally on the lower 
side of the leaf. These flies are not easily alarmed 
whilst thus eagaged in laying their eggs. In fourteen 
days these eggs begin" to hatch, and the young slug- 
worms continue to come forth, from the last of May 
until about the tenth of July, being influenced in time, 
somewhat, by the season. If the season is early, the 
flies deposit their eggs early, and if late, they are late in 
laying their eggs, hence, the slug worms are late in 
coming. 

At first the slugs are white, but a slimy matter 
soon oozes out of their skin and covers their backs with 
an olive-colored, sticky substanee. The slugs have 
twenty very short legs, a pair under each segment of the 
body, except the fourth and the last. They are about 



288 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

nine-twentieths of an inch long, when fully grown. 
The head is small and of a dark chestnut color, and is 
concealed under the fore part of the body. They are 
largest before, and taper behind, and resemble small 
tadpoles. They swell out the fore part of the body and, 
rest with the tail a little turned up. They live mostly 
on the upper side of the pear leaves, and eat the sub- 
stance, leaving only the veins and the under skin 
untouched. They may be so numerous as to cover the 
leaves. The trees thus attacked are forced to throw out 
new leaves during the hot weather, at the ends of the 
twigs and branches that still remain alive, and thus use 
leaf buds that should not have come out until the next 
spring. Thus the vigor of the trees is exhausted, and 
as the leaves elaborate the juices of the fruit, the fruit 
itself must suffer. In twenty-six days these slugs come 
to their growth and, in this time, cast their skin five 
times. They eat the first four coats, but never the last, 
and after they have gone, you see this last skin stretched 
on the leaf. After this last coat has been shed, the 
slugs are not slimy, but have a clean yellow skin, and 
not viscid. 

They change also in form, become longer, and you 
can see the head and the marks between the rings. 
Now in a few hours they leave the trees, having crept or 
fallen to the ground, and a high wind at this time with 
dry atmosphere, favors them. Now, on the ground they 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 289 

burrow from one inch to three or four inches, as the soil 
is soft or hard. They wriggle in their holes until they 
form a space for themselves their own shape ; now they 
line it with a sticky, glossy substance to which the grains 
of earth adhere. Now this becomes their cocoon and in 
them they change to chrysalids. In sixteen days this 
is finished, and they break their cells and crawl to the 
surface where they appear as the winged fly, the point 
from which we started. This second crop of flies for 
the season comes on the Peninsula about the middle of 
July to August first, and lay their eggs for a second 
brood of slugs. These latter are again seen on the trees, 
and dont reach their growth until September, when 
they go into the ground as the first brood of slugs did. 
This September brood remains in the ground all winter, 
and they come out flies the next Ma}', and so the wheel 
revolves. Some may remain in the ground until the 
second season before they come out as flies. 

The remedies for the slug are various. White helle- 
bore, one pound to thirty gallons of water, and throw it 
on the leaves by a fountain syringe, or through the rose 
on the watering pot. White hellebore as sold is often 
inert and useless ; snuff it a little and if it makes you 
sneeze, it is good, if not, it will be of no use. Green 
hellebore (our common polk root) will do as well and 
can be gathered and dried for the purpose. Dust them 
with any dust (road dust, plaster, lime, ashes, etc., will 
19 



290 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

kill them) and is best applied in the mornings when the 
leaf is damp. Paris green and London Purple, one table- 
spoonful to five gallons of water, will destroy them 
quickly. So arsenic, in same proportions and is cheaper. 
These of right should be boiled to dissolve them as 
much as possible, and agitate constantly whilst apply- 
ing. These last poisons are perfectly safe for the first 
crop of slugs, but don't use them on the second crop, 
when fruit is maturing ; they might prove very dangerous 
to those eating the fruit. Hellebore may be used at any 
time. Mice, rabbits and moles destroy many in their 
cocoons and birds destroy many as slugs and flies. They 
also have an enemy of their own, a small fly which lays 
its egg in the slug fly's egg ; from this egg a maggot is 
hatched, and it devours the slug-fly egg, forms its cocoon 
in it, changes to a chrysalis and hence, to a fly again. 
The secret of getting rid of the slug is to watch it and 
get ahead of it ; hence, it is important to know all about 
it, and its habits ; watch carefully the first hot spell in 
May and you will soon see the little flies. They now begin 
to lay their eggs, and now is the time to hellebore them 
or Paris green them, for it will be absorbed by the eggs 
and destroy them. Now in two weeks remember the 
eggs hatch, and now apply your remedies and don't let 
them get ahead one day or they will get ahead of you 
entirely. In the same way watch for the second crop, 
which we have told all about. 



PEACH AND THE PEA^. 2gi 

ORCHARD CATERPILLARS 

of different kinds, true and false, bother pear trees a 
great deal, although I can't say they do great harm, as a 
rule, yet they make large nests and eat more or less of 
the leaves. Winter is the time to destroy these in their 
rings of eggs on the shoots. Clip them off and burn 
them, or burn them off with a torch on a long handle. 
They are nearly an inch long and half an inch fn diam- 
eter. 

THE APHIS. 

Bark lice have been described when writing of 
peaches, to which the reader is referred. Destroy them 
by one of the tree washes given, or by Sulphide of 
Calcium, one pound to five gallons of water. 

SCALE. 

These insects have also been described and treated of, 
under peaches. For their destruction use the tree-wash 
according to the directions. A wash of gas-lime and 
water will contain Calcium Sulphide, and makes a very 
useful wash for trees subject to any pests. 

CURCULIO. 

Curculio has been described when treating of the 
peach. It certainly injures pears more or less on the 
peninsula, and every means in the power of the grower 
should be used to destroy it. Use the same remedies as 



292 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

given for it on peach trees ; also on Pears. Paris Green 
them early in the season. 

APPLE WORM. 

Codling moth : a true caterpillar ; and in due time 
changes to a moth, called Carpo Capsa Pomonella, and 
is very beautiful, with brown, copper and gray colors, 
with satin yellow. This moth does injury to pears, sure ; 
but is not a pest as yet as it is in apple orchards. The eggs 
are laid in the fruit, and the worm, hatching, burrows in 
towards the core, and the apple drops, as a rule, and the 
worm comes out of it, gets into a sheltered place in the 
bark of the tree and spins a white cocoon, then turns 
to a chrysalid, and then comes the moth again. This 
is Harris's description. Paris Green these pests, or use 
hellebore, etc. The grower who watches all these 
destroyers the closest, and makes way with them, will 
have the best fruit and most of it. I don't think the 
peninsula grower yet realizes what destructive agents all 
these creatures are, and they are increasing. After a 
while some great natural destroyer comes along and 
decimates them, just as happens to all life on the globe, 
from the highest to the lowest ; for how else could life on 
the earth survive .'' 

THE PEAR TREE OYSTER SCALE. 

Diaspis ostreae-formis, (Curtis.) From U. S. Gov. Agri- 
cultural Report, 1880.) The scale of the female is circular 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. . 293 

or broadly oval, and dark, ashy gray color, and some- 
tinies nearly white. The exuviae are dark brown. The 
body of the female is rounded, cordate when young. 
The anterior group of spinnerets consist of eight to 
twelve ; anterior laterals of twelve to thirteen ; posterior 
laterals of eight to fourteen. Median lobes, large and 
connate about half their length. Each lobe is rounded 
at its dorsal extremity, and widened anteriorly, sometimes 
abruptly. On each side of the median lobes are three 
slight incisions in the margin of the body ; the margins 
of these incisions are thickened ; there is a fifth rudimen- 
tary lobe, usually between the fifth and sixth plates. All 
plates except the first pair are well developed. There 
are three or four plates on the penultimate segment, 
and on the ante-penultimate, one or two. The spines 
are a short one near the meson, on the first lobe, and a 
long one, lateral, on the same lobe ; third and fourth 
caudal, of first and second incisions ; fifth, lateral of 
third incision, and the sixth, between the sixth and 
seventh plates. On ventral surface the spines are 
smaller, and the first and second are obsolete ; and the 
third and fourth on side of the second and third incisions,' 
and the fifth between the fourth and fifth plates. 

The scales of the male are of an elongated, oval 
form, and much flattened, especially posteriorly. The 
middles are feebly keel-shaped and the sides are not keel- 
shaped. The larval skin is light brown and is about 



294 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

one-third the length of the whole scale. The ventral 
side is closed, leaving only a narrow transverse slit at the 
posterior end. Color of scale, white ; length, 2-3 of an 
inch. The color of the male is bright ochre, with eyes 
and throat-band black. This scale is common in Eng- 
land and I give it here in order that our growers, especi- 
ally our intelligent young growers, intent after know- 
ledge, may look for it, and looking for it, I know they 
will find it. Every fruit grower should be a naturalist, 
even if in a small way. Any of the tree washes given 
will destroy them. Especially carbolic acid washes, and 
the wash of one pound of copperas to one gallon water. 

THE ELEMENTS. 

Heat we have spoken of as often injuring the pear 
prospect, so thunder storms, cold rains, especially east- 
erly rain-storms, coming on and lasting several days at 
the latter end of blossoming time, often decimate the 
crop. Wind storms and rain storms at picking time are 
also destructive, but against such visitations of God, poor, 
weak man is powerless. 

STARVATION. 

Many trees suffer from starvation, and starved trees 
are, of course, subject to all the train of evils coming on 
weak trees. The remedy, of course, is proper nourish- 
ment. 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 295 

OVERFEEDING. 

Trees may be injured by overfeeding as well as by 
starvation, and it becomes the liberal grower to watch 
closely the effect of his freely applied fertilizers. 

CRACKING OF THE FRUIT. 

This comes from a fungus on the fruit and the best 
remedy is salt to the trees, with good culture generally. 
Dry weather and heat may also crack some varieties. 

DECAYING OF THE FRUIT. 

The decaying of fruit from fruit parasites has been 
spoken of. The natural decay, as here alluded to, must 
be combatted by proper culture, and prompt and proper 
attention to the fruit before and after it has been picked. 

THE PEAR TREE BORER. — Algeria Pyri. 

It is thus described by Harris : 

Its wings expand rather more than half an inch, are 
transparent, but veined, bordered, and fringed with pur- 
plish black, and across the tips of the fore wings is a 
broad, dark band, glossed with coppery tints ; the prevail- 
ing color of the upper side of the body is purple black ; 
but most of the under side is golden yellow, as are the 
edges of the collar, of the shoulder covers, and of the 
fan-shaped brush on the tail, and there is a broad, yellow 
band across the middle of the abdomen, preceded by two 
narrow bands of the same color. 



296 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

An infested tree is known by the castings thrown 
out of the small perforations made by the borers, which 
live under the bark of the trunk, and subsist chiefly upon 
the inner bark. They make their cocoons under the 
bark, and change to chrysali'ls in the latter part of the 
summer. The winged insect appears in the autumn, 
having, like others of this kind, left their chrysalis skins 
projecting from the orifice of the holes which they had 
previously made. In its winged form it is like the 
^geria, which inhabits the currant bush, but is smaller. 
The remedy is to hunt them in their holes, known by the 
castings around it, and poke them with wires, and apply 
one of the tree washes. One of the carbolic acid washes 
is the best. 

This borer inhabits both the Standard and Dwarf 
pear woods. 

THE QUINCE TREE BORER — " Saperda Btvittata." 

This is the borer that plays havoc with the Dwarf 
pear trees, attacking the quince stock. Downing de- 
scribes it as the larva of a brown and white striped beetle, 
half an inch long, and it remains in this grub-state two 
or three years, coming out of the tree in a butterfly form, 
the last of May or the first of June, and flies in the night, 
only, from tree to tree, after its food, and finally deposit- 
ing its eggs during this and the next month in the collar 
of the tree. Here the grub eithc* girdles the quince 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 29/ 

Stock or perforates it in every part, and, if not destroyed, 
finally causes the death of the tree. Pick it out with a 
knife, or poke it to death with a wire. Pile ashes around 
the trunk and it can't reach the quince to deposit its 
eggs. Trees planted below the pear and quince junc- 
tion won't suffer from these borers. Build small fires about 
the orchard in June nights, and thousands of these and 
other beetles will be destroyed. These fires are to be 
recommended in all Peninsula fruit orchards, in the warm 
nights of May and June, yearly. 

The Areoda Lanigera, Goldsmith beetle, sometimes 
eats the tender leaves of pear trees. Harris describes it 
as nine-tenths of an inch long, broad, oval in shape, of 
lemon yellow color above, gold head and breast, under 
side of body copper colored, and covered with whitish 
wool. Its legs are yellow and green. Its larvae are un- 
known. Destroy them by night-fires in the orchard. 

The seventeen year locusts — Cicada Septendecim — ■ 
may destroy Pear trees. The larvae, in countless numbers, 
are sometimes found at the roots of declining trees, with 
their suckers piercing the bark. Dig them out and apply 
a carbolic acid tree-wash in the hole. 

Another enemy to the pear is described by Harris 
as the Pear Tree Psylla — Psylla Pyri — Harris' descrip- 
tion is taken from Kollar's Treatise. The Psylla comes 
from its winter retreat provided with wings, as soon as 



298 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

the buds of fruit trees begin to expand in the spring. 
After pairing, the female lays her eggs, in great numbers, 
near each other, on the young leaves and blossoms, or 
on the newly formed fruit and shoots. The eggs are 
oblong, yellowish, and look something like grains of 
pollen. The young insects hatched therefrom resemble 
wingless plant-lice, and are of a dark yellow color. 
They change their skins and color repeatedly, and 
acquire wing-scales, or rudimentary wings. They then 
fix themselves to the bark in rows, and remain sucking 
the sap till their last change approaches, at which time 
they disperse among the leaves, cast off their skins and 
appear in the winged form. When considerable numbers 
attack a Pear tree, it soon assumes an unhealthy appear- 
ance, its growth is checked, its leaves and shoots curl 
up, and the tree dies by degrees, if not freed from its 
troublesome guests. 

To destroy the Pear Psylla, Koller recommends 
brushing them off, etc., which would be too slow for the 
large Peninsula orchards. For its destruction. I would 
recommend the application of the following wash which 
I have received from Washington through the courtesy 
of the Superintendent of the grounds attached to the 
Agricultural Department ; Mr. Wm. Saunders. 

This wash has been used in the grounds with great suc- 
cess in the blight of Pear trees, being applied as a paint as 
often as necessary when the bark is injured, or apparently 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 299 

dying, removing the old bark to the sap-wood first. Mr. 
Saunders thinks sulphur is the most useful ingredient, 
not attaching much importance to the Carbolic Acid. 

THE SAUNDERS AGRICULTURAL GROUNDS PEAR TREE 

WASH. 

Crude Carbolic Acid, one quart. 

Powdered Sulphur, ten pounds. 

Stone Lime, one-half bushel. 

Hot Water, sufficient to make whitewash. 

Put the sulphur and lime together in a barrel and 
pour on hot water until the lime has been slaked. 
This wash should be applied to the body and limbs of 
the trees before the buds expand in the spring, and it then 
will not injure them. Of course it is not to be used 
unless we have found evidence of the presence of the 
psylla, in the spring, or the year before. 

These remarks concerning these insects may be dry 
reading to some, but I warn peninsula fruit growers to 
heed them, for they are increasing annually in numbers 
and kind, and in the future, he who fights them most 
successfully will be the most amply rewarded. 

Don't forget to build fires in all your fruit orchards 
eachseason,occasionally during the hot nights in May,and 
each of the summer months, Thousands of moths will 
fly"4nto these fires and be destroyed. 



300 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

SHEDDING OF FOLIAGE. 

It appears to be inherent in some pear trees to shed 
their foliage prematurely, independent of any pest or 
disease. The Belle Lucrative does this on the Peninsula, 
and so, to some extent, the winter Nelis and Duchess. 
If it seriously affects the trees, I advise root-pruning in 
the autumn. Expose the roots three or four feet from 
the tree and cut them off" with a clean cut. Pour in 
some soap suds, and cover up the roots and the opera- 
tion is finished. 

FROST. 

At times, cold is a serious enemy to the pear. The 
wood is stronger, and less delicate than peach wood, 
and probably no degree of cold we have on the peninsula 
ever kills the wood or even the fruit buds. But the tree 
entering the winter with a second autumn growth of 
succulent wood, may have this wood so affected by low 
temperature, as to render it liable to the ravages of 
blight, when the warm weather comes — as has been ex- 
plained under that disease. It is in the spring that the 
pear suffers most from frost, just when the blossom is 
perfected, and on to the time when it is leaving the 
embryo fruit. I think the Duchess Pear is particularly 
a little tender at this time. Again, at this stage, an 
easterly storm with cold rain is very apt to cause great 
loss to the pear grower, and, indeed, I look upon the 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 3OI 

coming of such a storm, at such a time, in the light of 
as great a disaster as can come upon the approaching 
pear crop. Late frosts may cut the foliage, somewhat, 
of trees, but this is not serious, and is soon repaired. 
A smudge burned on frosty nights, in small orchards, 
where the thermometer goes to 44°, or lower, may raise 
the temperature two or three degrees, and is worthy of 
trial. 

CRACKING OF THE BARK. 
The bark of pear trees may be cracked by frost, 
disease or accident. If seriously cracked, clean well and 
apply the Saunders Agricultural Grounds Wash. If a 
tree is injured and much bark is skinned off and lost, 
apply clay mortar with some of this wash mixed in it to 
render it antiseptic, then wind a piece of cotton duck 
around the part affected, and tie it on with woolen yarn. 
The yarn will expand with the growth of the tree and 
in a year or two, on removing the dressing, the wound 
will be found to have healed. Any kind of injured tree 
may be saved by such a process. Before leaving this 
subject of diseases, and enemies of the pear, let me 
impress upon growers the necessity of protecting the 
insectivorous birds frequenting their orchards, and I 
even crave this protection for the much abused sparrow, 
unless he becomes much more numerous than he is at 
present. Frown down all wanton destruction of insect- 
eating birds, and enforce by precept and example, all 



302 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

laws formed for their protection, and you will preserve 
and enlist in your cause a worthy ally in your struggle 
with the insect pest. 



Chapter XVI. 



PICKING PEARS. 

As a prelude to picking the matured fruit, comes in 
hand-thinning of the undeveloped fruit, in order to 
give that allowed to remain on the tree, a better oppor- 
tunity for development. Among amateur growers and 
in garden culture, and small orchard culture, this is a prac- 
ticable operation, and is to be recommended, if one 
wishes to get fine specimens of large fruit. In the large 
orchards of the Peninsula where the pear is grown for 
market profit, this hand-thinning is not much practised 
on account of the great labor it requires. In a measure 
I advocate it, especially in Dwarf culture, and especially 
in productive kinds like the Buffum, or Barlett, or Howell. 
When we find a limb over-crowded, pick off a few of 
the poor ones and you will get finer and larger pears 
from those that remain. 

It has been given as a rule in hand-thinning fruit, to 
take off all you think should come off, and then take off 
half of those which remain. This is a good rule for the 
professional or amateur raising specimens for the Agri- 



304 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

cultural Fair, and it is in this way premiums are taken. 
Such hand-thinning would be neither practicable nor 
profitable in large field orchards, and for them is not to 
be recommended. 

PICKING THE CROP. 
Most pears when ripened off the trees, color up 
better, have a finer perfume, and are of much richer flavor 
than when ripened on the trees. Yet many will ripen 
well on or off the trees, as the Bartlett, but the Clapps 
Favorite, for instance, will be disappointing if permitted 
to remain on the tree until mellow. It must be gathered 
at just the right time, kept in the right place, and eaten 
at the right time, or it will rot at the core and be worth- 
less. These points will serve to show how much judg- 
ment and experience must be exercised in gathering the 
pear crop. The early varieties, as the Summer Doyenne 
and Bartlett, and Manning's Elizabeth, must be gathered 
early, in order to get them into market and anticipate 
the northern growers, and the peach competition. A 
Bartlett pear, two-thirds grown, will ripen off the tree 
with good flavor, and usually can be gotten to market 
before peaches come, but there are exceptional years, 
when the season is late, and they come in with Penin- 
sula peaches, much to the disadvantage of the pear. 
The season of 1885 was thus an unprofitable season to 
the growers of Bartletts, the fruit coming in with early 
peaches. Later pears must not be gathered too soon or 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 305 

they will fail to ripen with high flavor, yet at the same 
time they must not be allowed to ripen on the trees or 
they will lose color and flavor. Winter fruit may be left 
on the trees quite late, but must be watched closely and 
not allowed to drop of its own accord. It is important, 
as soon as gathered, to have it culled and packed in its 
proper packages and stored in its proper storehouse, 
dark, and with equable temperature, or it will decay 
without ripening. It certainly makes a great difference 
in pears when they be gathered, and how they be kept 
and ripened to give them their true color, aroma and 
flavor ; give me a fine pear and I think I can tell you 
how it has been handled after picking. 

A pear is ready to be gathered when, as a rule, the 
seeds are brown in color, and it separates readily from 
the stem on being lifted up at an angle of thirty degrees 
above its horizontal. In picking, see that your men are 
careful not to disturb the fruit spurs of the tree, or next 
year's crop may be much diminished. This is very 
important to attend to. If a limb breaks partly off, 
before the pears are ripe, allow it to remain until it 
matures the fruit on it, then cut it off, as you should do 
all such limbs, after picking is over. 

Pick all pears, where possible, with their stems on. 
Such fruit is, in every way, more desirable and saleable. 
As a rule, go over a pear tree three times, at each picking 
'20 



306 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

removing such as are fit to come off. On an average, it 
will require about ten days interval between the first and 
last picking ; of course all pears must be hand-picked and 
handled like eggs, and gently placed in baskets, and 
quietly removed to the culling house, where they are to 
go through this process at once. Good fruit that is 
thoroughly culled and well packed, will invariably pay 
a handsome profit. 

Pick pears on cool, dry days, if possible, and, with 
the average pear, picking a little early improves the 
keeping quality, aud holding it a little later, will help 
the aroma and flavor. 

CULLING THE FRUIT. 

Pears must be culled by hand, and very carefully. 
Grade them by the Fruit Exchange Standards, if they 
have any. Heretofore, my divisions have been into 
extras, primes, culls and windfalls. Sometimes I may ship 
a few double extras in small crates with a handle, each 
pear wrapped in tissue paper. This is a wrinkle in pear 
shipping that often pays the grower, and gladdens the 
hearts of the buyers too. Cull the windfalls, ship the 
best at once, in crates, and sell the culls to the evapora- 
tors, or evaporate them yourself. Having culled the 
fruit, commence now by shipping all that is fit to go, 
having put it in its proper package. As the culls are 
ready, sell them to an evaporator, or evaporate them 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 307 

yourself, and make the refuse into cider and hog-feed. 
Now you have, say, double extras, extras and primes, for 
market shipment. Put them in baskets and set them 
away in the dark, dry room of your detention house. 
For double extras and extras, you should have drawers 
holding one bushel, more or less, and these drawers in 
closets with doors. Assort all pears daily, or, every 
other day, as they are ripening rapidly or slowly. The 
moment you detect the least sign of fitness, viz., 
rapid coloring and slight softening, ship them at once and 
put the remainder back for further inspection. This 
detention house may be a granary, second story, or a 
building for the purpose. The second story is best for 
pears. All such houses should have an open box with 
lime gently air-slaking all the time. This robs the air 
of much moisture, and the dryer your detention room 
the better. 

COLD STORAGE OF PEARS. 
By cold storage, pears may be kept long past their 
proper season, and put on the market when the glut of 
the variety is passed. The house is built by different 
patented processes, and ice is used to keep the tempera- 
ture down to 38° Fahrenheit, the point it should be kept 
at ; cold storage of peaches has been tried, but has not 
paid the cost ; cold storage of pears has been carried on 
successfully for several years, as far as keeping them 
well preserved is concerned. Individually, I think the 



308 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

flavor is injured and the refrigerated pear is not a gastro- 
nomic success. In November, I don't want a Bartlett ; 
it is a hot weather pear. In that month give me a 
Lawrence, and it keeps without cold storage. The pears 
are packed in the cold-house by rule, and if care is not 
taken, the top layer will decay ; the hot air ascending. 
As soon as removed from the refrigerator the pear must 
be shipped and sold. They don't stand up well. As a 
rule, the boxes, to make sure, after having been taken 
from the refrigerator, must be opened and culled over. 
There is more or less average loss from decay. 

MARKETING THE CROP. 
Double extra pears should be packed in one-third 
crates with a handle of rope or leather at one end, and 
each pear wrapped in tissue paper. The extra care will 
well pay the grower. Market extras in the regulation 
peach baskets with covers, as the best package now 
obtainable. We want a new package for extra and 
double-extra pears made something like a grape basket 
with a handle. Any display of taste and refinement 
here, will come back with large returns. The new 
fruit package, the ripe fruit carrier, I have hopes of, 
although I have not yet examined it. It will hold about 
one hundred large peaches or pears, each wrapped in 
tissue paper and packed in its own individual apartment. 
I think this is the package Mr. Cochran made his suc- 
cessful shipment of peaches to Europe in, last year, and 
it doubtless will carry ripe pears equally well. 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 3O9 

Ship primes in the regulation fruit crate of the 
Peninsula. Pears in transit must be kept out of the 
reach of thieves and vandals, and for this reason the 
crate is better than the open basket for the inferior 
qualities. Sell through the Delaware Fruit Exchange, 
if possible. Next, sell at your fruit house, or at your 
Rail Road Station. If unable to do either of these 
things, ship to the best market you can hear of. Never 
ship a car load or large quantities at once. The market 
is sensitive as to pears, and a car load coming at once 
from the Peninsula, especially, to even a large city, will 
dull its edge. Ship, say, from twenty-five to fifty baskets 
or crates every two or three days. I am speaking now 
of late pears. When we are shipping early pears, we 
must watch the market, and, by all means, get them in 
early, before Peninsula peaches and northern pears. 

EVAPORATING THE PEAR. 

The process of evaporating is the same for all fruits, 
and for its description I refer the reader to the proper 
heading in the part of this book, devoted to the peach. 

The market for evaporated pears has, asyet, to be 
made, but they form such a delicious and wholesome 
article of diet, that there can be no doubt of their 
speedy popularity, when thrown on the market in large 
quantities. The Bartlett is, doubtless, the best of all 
pears to evaporate. The Howell, the Duchess, (when 



3IO THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

ripe,) the d'Anjou, the Lawrence, the Louise bonne de 
Jersey, and any good soft pear will make good evaporated 
fruit. The pears must be pared, and then sliced longitu- 
dinally or across into about four to six slices, and placed 
upon the evaporator trays. As to the time it takes, and 
the amount of fuel required for pears, in comparison 
with peaches, authorities differ. Apples are easier to 
evaporate than peaches, and a Bartlett pear, it appears 
to me, should be about between the two ; a little more 
difficult to evaporate than the apple, and a little easier 
than the peach. The Bartlett pear ought to evaporate 
in from twelve to eighteen hours, depending on the 
strength of the fire. Don't evaporate pears too rapidly, 
or the edges will blacken and curl up. 
CANNING PEARS. 
The process of canning has been described in its 
proper place under the peach, and it is not necessary to 
again refer to it here. In canning fruit, we merely 
destroy the bacteria by heat, and then hermetically 
sealing it, we prevent their proliferation, and so long as it 
remains air-tight, it must remain absolutely unchanged 
and unchangeable. The Bartlett is the most desirable 
pear for canning purposes, and the Howell makes the 
whitest and most beautiful fruit, and must always be a 
favorite among those following the business. The 
Duchess and Lawrence and d'Anjou, all make lovely 
fruit when hermetically sealed, and must be sought for 
wherever the business is carried on. 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 3II 

CONSERVES. 

As with peaches; half preserve pears, and pack them 
down in white pulverized sugar, and we get a delicious 
conserve that will, with proper care, keep for an indefinite 
time. The French excel in such dainties, but there is no 
reason the business should not thrive on our own 
peninsula, and some of our people given to such work 
should engage in their extensive manufacture. There 
is no doubt of a market for as many as can be produced. 

WORK FOR EACH MONTH OF THE YEAR IN THE FRUIT 
ORCHARD. 

I am indebted to Thomas for many points here 
given. 

~ JANUARY. 

Tread the snow about young trees to drive away 
mice. Rub the trees with raw liver if rabbits become 
troublesome. Drain off all water accumulating about 
trees. You may prune hardy trees, covering the wounds 
with copal varnish, or paint, or wax ; cut grafts and pack 
them away in a celler in damp sand or saw dust. Don't 
let stock of any kind get into the orchard. 

If you want trees for spring planting, look around 
for them, and determine what you are going to plant. 
Let nurserymen prepare for spring, getting packing 
materials, etc. Nurserymen may now graft seedling 



312 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

pears for standards, and, when finished, pack them away 
in moist sand or saw dust until spring planting-time ; do 
mulching that has not been done earlier. Think over 
and mature your spring plans. 

FEBRUARY. 

Do now anything you should have done in January, 
as everything is still dormant. Examine all trees for 
caterpillar nests, and cut them all off and burn them, 
and rub off all suspicious spots on the branches of the 
trees. You may top-dress orchards now if you don't 
intend to break them up in the spring. Use the rules 
directed for fertilizing. Make labels, stakes, ladders, 
crates, boxes, etc. 

MARCH. 

Use tree washes. Finish all February work incom- 
pleted. Sow clover in your orchard if you propose to do 
it this spring. Graft the apple, the cherry, the pear. 
Shorten back trees, now or early in April. Cut back your 
young trees planted the previous autumn, and prune 
them ready for their first year's orchard growth. Plough 
fruit orchards if ground is fit. 

APRIL. 

Use tree washes. Plant all trees, and get at it by the 
tenth of the month sure, if possible. Set out all cuttings. 
Plant all fruit tree seeds, if they are to be transplanted 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 313 

from sprouting beds of last fall. Take those first which 
show evidence of sprouting. Peach stones start later than 
the stones of other fruits, and it is well to remember 
this point. Harrow and cultivate fruit orchards after 
ploughing. Spade in winter mulching, or better, fork it in, 
and level any mice hills erected around trees the previous 
autumn. Never cut the shoots of a young tree back 
after the buds have swelled in the spring. Stake up 
crooked trees. Kill all orchard caterpillars found. 

MAY. 

Use tree washes. Rub off all buds coming below 
the new bud on budded trees. Give quince, and other 
trees needing it, their hot weather mulching. May hand 
thin some fruit. Kill all orchard caterpillars found, com- 
mence to destroy curculio, and examine for pear tree 
borers and apple tree borers and quince borers, and 
watch well from this time out, dwarf pear trees, when 
not planted below the quince junction. Continue culti- 
vation of orchards. Look out for pear-slug on the 
Peninsula and destroy it by some of the means given. 

JUNE. 
Use tree washes. Build fires in orchards hot nights. 
Do all things neglected or unfinished from May. Watch 
pear-slug, curculio and all such pests. Destroy aphides. 
Rub off supernumerary shoots on young fruit trees. 
Look well for the evidences of peach and pear borers. 



314 THE CULTIVAVION OF THE 

Hand-thin fruit. Look well to evidences of pear-blight 
coming. Mulch cherry, quince and chestnut trees, etc. 
Bud peach trees and other trees, if desirable. 

JULY. 
Use tree washes. Build fires in orchards hot nights. 
Stop orchard cultivation on the Peninsula, as a rule. 
Mulch all young trees that cannot be cultivated. Hand- 
thin fruit and rub off supernumerary shoots on young 
trees. Bud all trees at any time now. Look out for 
second crop of pear slug, and watch all borers. Watch 
for pear and quince blight, etc., and cut it away and 
burn it. Gather early apples, pears, and peaches and 
other early fruits, 

AUGUST. 
Summer prune trees. Pinch off supernumerary 
shoots. Mulch trees suffering from hot weather. Watch 
for insects, grubs, etc., and destroy them. Build moth fires 
in orchards hot nights. Cut out pear blight and use the 
tree washes. Continue budding. Watch budded trees 
and cut off ties, etc. Continue gathering fruit. 

SEPTEMBER. 
Summer prune trees. Continue gathering fruit and 
budding trees, and cutting off ties, etc. You may 
plough ground for setting out new orchards in Novem- 
ber. Commence to house pears for ripening, and apples, 
too. You may top dress orchards. 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 315 

OCTOBER. 

Attend to your housed fruit and the shipping of it. 
Plant peach pits. Continue gathering fruit and housing 
pears and apples, etc. You may top dress orchards. 
Prepare ground for young orchards. 

NOVEMBER. 

Plant your young orchards, and don't begin later 
than the end of the first week. Heel in all stock you 
can't plant. Make cuttings for quinces, etc., and put 
them away in moist moss, or heel them in the ground. 
Attend to your housed fruit and the shipping of it. 

DECEMBER. 

Complete all November work. Cut grafts and put 
them away. Winter-mulch trees. Put away all tools, 
etc. Attend to housed fruit and the shipping of it. 

Read over January directions. 



Chapter XVII. 



In order to test the opinions of pear growers, I sent 
out the following questions, and received the following 
series of answers, which will be found very interesting, 
and very useful, to those engaged in the business of 
growing this luscious fruit. As each question will be 
numbered, and each answer numbered to correspond to 
the question, no trouble will be found in reading them 
understandingly. 

Question i. Give the best list for profit of an 
orchard of one thousand pear trees for the Delaware and 
Chesapeake Peninsula. 

Question 2. Do you prefer Standards or Dwarfs, and 
please give your reasons for the preference ? 

Question 3. What is the best soil for pear trees, 
also best situation as to shelter, hill, valley, etc. ? 

Question 4. What is the average life of a Peninsula 
Standard Pear orchard, and what is the average life of a 
Dwarf orchard ? 

Question 5. When, in your opinion, is the pear 



3l8 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

crop most frequently injured by frost ? Fall, Winter or 
Spring ? 

Question 6. Does very low temperature in Winter 
kill the pear buds ? If so, how low ? 

Question 7. Do you plough early, or late, in the 
Spring ? How deep, how often, and what is your method 
of cultivating after one ploughing ? 

Question 8. What fertilizers do you use, and when, 
and in what quantity, and how do you apply them ? 

Question 9, When and how do you prune the trees. 
and do you ever hand-thin the fruit ? If so, with what 
result ? 

Question 10. What, in your opinion, causes pear 
blight, and how do you treat it ? 

Question 11. Do you worm your pear trees ? If so, 
when and how ? 

Question 12. Do you have slug ? If so, does it 
permanently injure the trees ? What remedies do you 
use for it ? 

Question 13. Does Curculio injure Peninsula pears? 

Question 14. Do you see any new enemies, lately, 
injuring the Pear tree or fruit ? 

Question 15. What is your idea of cold storage for 
pears ? Does it pay, and what effect has it on the flavor 
of the fruit ? 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 3I9 

Question 16. Give your idea of the best way to 
gather, hold, and market the fruit, and the best packages 
in which to ship it. 

Question 17. Which is the best pear to evaporate? 
The second best, the third best and the fourth best ? Do 
pears or peaches evaporate the easiest ? 

Question 18. Has pear-growing been profitable 
with you ? 

ANSWERS RECEIVED FROM GROWER, NO. I. 

Question i. LeConte Standard, Kieffer Standard, 
Bartlett Standard, Clapp's Favorite Standard, Louise 
bonne de Jersey Standard, Washington Standard, 
Beurre Diel Standard ; those are Standard ; will put the 
Dwarfs on the other page. 

Question 2. Dwarfs, I prefer, as they are always 
sure to bear, and will not occupy as much land as the 
Standard. 

Question 3. Stiff loam; never plant in sandy land, 
or in gravel, or on side of a hill. Take flat land. 

Question 4. Thirty years for Standard, twenty for 
Dwarfs, and twenty-five to thirty for Dwarf if you cut 
the bark above the union as you plant them, so as to 
make them throw out hair-roots. 

Question 5. Spring. 



320 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

Question 6. I have had them to stand 5° below zero, 
cannot stand it long ; never had them killed in the 
winter ; I have had them injured some. 

Question 7. Plough as early in Spring as the land 
will permit, from 3 to 4 inches. Plough twice a year till 
the orchard is 4 years old, and plant in Dwarf, corn, ant. 
cultivate three times ; five years old, plough once, and 
harrow and cultivate once ; six years old, plough once, 
and harrow, and let it go. 

Question 8. Kainit, 300 lbs, broadcast, after fruit 
comes off, and plough down in Spring. 

Question 9. In fall, as soon as leaf falls ; cut back 
one-half every year. Hand-thin fruit sometimes ; it does 
not pay. Cut back one-half until the orchard is five or 
six years old, or according to the growth. 

Question 10. Excess of growth will cause sap- 
blight, or putting manure on your orchard. Cut it three 
inches below the blight, and burn the blighted wood. 
Do not let it lay in your orchard. Body-blight is more 
serious. 

Question 11. Late in fall, with knife and hoes. It 
is seldom ever regarded, only in light land. In heavy 
land you never will have any worms. 

Question 12. Sometimes eats leaves of the trees 
and kills fruit. *Spread rotten potatoes under the trees, 

Bad advice. (. I. B. 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 321 

or rotten apples ; the slug will eat of them and let the 
tree alone ; or when the dew is on the leaves, sow on 
them air slaked lime. 

Question 13. Very much. They injure the fruit by 
stinging the pear. No remedy, only shaking the trees 
late in the evening, for about two weeks, when the fruit 
is young. 

Question 14. None. 

Question 15. It will pay if pains are taken in 
gathering the fruit ; flavor is better, if not picked too 
green. 

Question 16. Pick one by one as they get ripe. Go 
over your trees twice a week, ship as soon as you gather, 
if you can get a fair price ; ship in crates ; if you hold 
them, keep them in a cold place, and very dark ; do not 
let the light in. 

Question 17. No experience in drying pears. 

Part of Question (i). Dwarf, Duchess, Stevens 
Genesee, Belle Lucrative, Beurre Bosc, Glout Morceau. 
More money in Duchess than any pear grown. 

Question 18. Is pear-growing profitable with you } 
I have certainly made money out of pears. In fourteen 
years I never failed to raise a crop. I have 2500 trees. 
Keep manure, such as barn-yard manure or stable manure, 
out of your pear orchard ; it will cause blight. Select 
21 



322 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

a heavy loam and flat land for your orchard, and for 
Dwarfs, plant six inches below the union ; cut the bark 
heavy above the union before planting ; do not mix your 
Standard with your Dwarf in planting ; plant your Dwarf 
full ten feet apart each way ; Standard, fully twenty feet. 
If you mix in planting, the Standard will smother out 
the Dwarf ; do not plant too many varieties. 

ANSWERS RECEIVED FROM GROWER, NO. 2. 

Question i. I have not at command, nor have I the 
ability or time to answer in a satisfactory way. 

Question 2. Standards have done best with me. 
The fact that my Dwarfs break off at the point where 
the quince and pear meet, when heavily loaded with 
fruit, or during high winds, is a serious objection. Some 
varieties seem to die young on quinces. Such is the 
case with Kieffer. 

Question 3. An alluvial soil with open sub-soil, and 
elevation with western exposure. Valleys are an 
objection for all fruit trees that are liable to be killed by 
late frosts. 

Question 4. Cannot tell, as my Standards and 
Dwarfs are all alive that I have planted since I am in the 
State, which is nineteen years, and show no signs of 
giving way. 

Question 5. Spring, by late frost and eastern rain. 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 323 

Question 6. I do not know that pears will kill, 
unless trees are killed by low temperature, nor do I 
know how low. 

Question 7. First of May. Eight inches. All 
orchards should be ploughed that depth ; once is suf- 
ficient, I harrow across the balance. I go over with 
duck bills and flukes ; once a week is not too often, and 
as long as you can get under the tree. 

Question 8. Bone and potash, either Fall or Spring. 
From four to six hundred pounds per acre. If I get my 
potash from Kainit, I throw from wagon with shovel, but 
if I use a more concentrated form, it must be spread 
broadcast, by hand, or with spreaders made for the 
purpose. 

Question 9. Spring, just before they bloom. If 
trees are pruned just before they bloom, a careful pruner 
will cut out enough bearing wood so that the remaining 
fruit will mature. 

Question 10. Too much lime and pound manure. 
Fertilizer described in No. 8, will check it. 

Question 11. No. 

Question 12. Yes ; no ; road dust, air slaked lime 
or plaster, either will answer to kill them. 

Question 13. No. 



324 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

Question 14. I have seen Kieffer pears, almost 
matured in New Jersey, punctured by an insect ; it has 
not yet reached us to my knowledge. This is the first 
year it has been noticed, I am told. It must be new. 

Question 15. In my opinion it is necessary in order 
to save them in the gluts. I have seen Bartletts sell for 
30 cents in the gluts, and those kept in cold storage sold 
for $1.50 per basket in November. The effect is scarcely 
noticeable. 

Question 16. Hand picking. Hold, in a retarding 
house all fruits that are not sold by auction at home. 
They should be stored in a cooling house, reported in 
the city and sold by order. The | basket thus far is the 
best. 

Question 17. The Bartlett has proved best for us. 
The next is a sugar pear, a native of Delaware. The 
difference, if any, is very slight. As I have said before, 
my experience is so limited on pears that I cannot say 
anything to benefit you, and you will have to excuse me 
with this. 

ANSWERS RECEIVED FROM GROWER, NO. 3. 
Question i. Bartletts all the time. 

Question 2. Standards. Because there are only five 
varieties that succeed as Dwarfs, and they come in bear- 
ing but little sooner than Standards, and are very liable 
to break off where the pear and quince unite. 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 325 

Question 3. Sandy loam, with clay and sand mixed, 
for sub-soil. Would plant on hill every time, as you are 
less liable to frost. 

Question 4. I am unable to answer. 

Question 5. In the spring at or about time of 
blossoming. 

Question 6. I don't think they are scarcely ever 
killed in winter. 

Question 7. I usually plough about June first and 
then cultivate enough to keep the soil loose and free 
from weeds. 

Question 8. Kainit and bone meal, in as large 
quantities as I am able. Don't think that 1,500 lbs. of 
Bone Meal and 500 lbs. of Kainit per acre would work 
any injury. 

Question 9. I pruned my trees severely the first 
two years, until I got them headed and started to suit. 
After that only enough to keep in good shape and open 
to the sun. 

Question 10. It is undoubtedly a fungus, and my 
treatment is to watch closely during the warm season 
and remove all blight, promptly, from 12 to 18 inches be- 
low every sign of the disease. 

Question 11. No answer. 

Question 12. Yes. If not killed they will kill the 
trees. I use " London Purple." 



326 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

Question 13. Yes, very much. 

Question 14. The fruit was badly injured this year, 
from a fungus, causing it to be badly specked all over ; 
especially Bartletts. 

Question 15. Of my own knowledge I cannot an- 
swer. 

Question 16. No answer. 

Question 17. (i) Bartlett. (2) Beurre d'Anjou. 
Peaches evaporate much easier than pears. 

ANSWERS RECEIVED FROM GROWER, NO. 4. 

Question i. Standard, 600 Bartlett, 300 Lawrence, 
lOO Kieffer. Dwarfs, 500 Bartlett, 500 Duchess. 

Question 2. I prefer Dwarfs because they are larger 
and less liable to blight, except Lawrence and Kieffer, 
those as Standards. 

Question 3. I would take loam or sandy soil and a 
northern slope. 

Question 4. We have the Standard and the Dwarfs 
14 years old, and they are doing well at this time. 

Question 5. Spring. 

Question 6. Do not think that will hurt them with- 
out killing the tree. 

Question 7. Plough early in Spring ; 2^ in. is plenty 
deep. Cultivate, after one ploughing, up to the loth or 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 32/ 

15th of June, then stop, grass or no grass, weeds or no 
weeds. 

Question 8. Feed the trees with the best phosphate 
you can get ; 400 lbs. per acre, in the spring, after plough- 
ing. 

Question 9. I would shorten the growth one-half 
each year, for the first four years, then be guided by the 
condition of the trees. It would be quite a job to thin 
the fruit on a thousand trees, but believe it would pay. 

Question 10. I think that heavy winds are a great 
help to the blighting of trees, as it stops the flow of 
sap. 

Question 11. Never worm any. 

Question 12. It stops the growth of the wood for 
the next crop. I found that lime, dry, was the best 
thing for them, put on when the dew was on. 

Question 13. Do not know. 

Question 14. Not to my knowledge. 

Question 15. I believe it pays, and gives the fruit a 
better flavor, but I am not speaking of ice refrigerating. 
I know nothing about that. 

Question 16. Gather about ten days before you 
want it for market, and put it in a cold place, ship in 
crates or baskets. 



328 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

Question 17. Bartlett first, Louise Bonne de Jersey 
second, Lawrence third, Duchess fourth. Peaches 
easiest. 

ANSWERS RECEIVED FROM GROWER, NO. 5. 

Question i. Duchess, 

Question 2. Standard. 

Question 3. Best land for corn. 

Question 4. Standards many years. Dwarfs no 
account. 

Question 5. Spring, in blossom. 

Question 6. No. 

Question 7. Plough shallow in Fall. Harrow in 
Spring. 

Question 8. Bone and Potash. 

Question 9. No pruning. 

Question 10. Question too hard. 



Question 11 
Question 12 
Question 13 
Question 14 
Question 15 
Question 16 



No answer. 

No answer. 

Fall ploughing kills curculio. 

No answer. 

No answer. 

No answer. 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 329 

Question 17. Duchess, 

Is pear culture profitable with you ? No. 

ANSWERS RECEIVED FROM GROWER, NO. 6. 

Question i. Bartlctt, Lawrence, Early Sugar, Bell 
Pear, for Standards. For Dwarf, Duchess. 

Question 2, Standards, they come into bearing 
nearly as soon as dwarfs, and they last so much longer. 

Question 3. Light, loamy soil, (not too sandy or 
gravelly,) the ground nearly level, just rolling enough to 
carry the water off. 

Question 4. Standard. I have one 25 years old. 
The Dwarf orchard planted at same time is gone some 
eight years. 

Question 5. No answer. 

Question 6. No answer. 

Question 7. The early Sugar and Bell pears have 
paid me better than any other pear, for the last eight 
years. Two years ago I budded a lot of Lawrence with 
the Sugar, after they were planted out two years. 

Question 8. Commercial fertilizer in quantity of 
500 lbs to the acre. 

Question 9. 20th June I trim and cut back one-half 
of this year's growth. I have hand-thinned fruit say one- 



33° THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

half, and the balance made as much afterward in 
increased size of fruit as it would have made if not 
thinned. 

Question lo. No answer. 

Question II. No answer. 

Question 12. I have the slug. I think it would 
permanently injure the trees if not destroyed. I use 
Paris Green in water. 

Question 13. I think not. 

Question 14. I have not. 

Question 15. No answer. 

Question 16. Pick just before they are ripe when 
they come from the stem, easily. I ship in boxes but 
cannot say which pays the best to ship in. 

Question 17. Bartlett first, Duchess second, Law- 
rence third. Is pear growing profitable with you } Pears 
have paid me well, what few I have. The early pears 
the best. 

ANSWERS RECEIVED FROM GROWER, NO.7. 

Question i. My trees in bearing, all Dwarfs, are : 
Howell's, Red Harvest, Lawrence, Bufifum, Bartlett, 
Louise Bonne de Jersey, Duchess, and Vicar of Wink- 
field. They were selected for me by a Pennsylvania 
Nurseryman, before I had any experience. I value the 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 33I 

Bartlett, Duchess, Lawrence, Howell, Buffum and Vicar 
very highly. The Louise Bonne de Jersey needs hand- 
thinning to give good fruit. While I think three or four 
varieties might be added to my list to advantage, still I 
think it an excellent one. The Lawrence is a splendid 
pear and I value my Vicar very highly. 

Question 2. Have had scarcely any experience with 
Standards. My little orchard planted about 1873, some 
56 trees, all Dwarfs, commenced to bear in three years, 
and have given me, almost uniformly, good crops ever 
since. Some years a few trees have rested, but with 8 
varieties I have always had plenty of good fruit. I 
believe most thoroughly in Dwarfs, my faith being based 
upon my experience with my own success. They must 
be well fed, the trees must be carefully selected. They 
require careful pruning and cultivation. 

Question 3. My soil is a heavy upland clay, but 
made rich by various fertilizers. Stable manure, 
(composted,) lime, potash, salt, phosphate, bone and 
compost made from kitchen garbage, sod, privy water, 
lime, salt, etc. I have no experience with any other 
kind of soil, personally ; my location is very much 
exposed. No protection from our fierce winter winds. 

Question 4. My Dwarfs were three years old, 
planted, I think, 1873. Have borne, as stated, with 
little intermission for ten years, and most of them are 
vigorous and in good condition to-day, promising well 



332 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

for many years to come. I have lost one tree by disease, 
and then I was away from home for ten months. I think 
I'd have saved it, had I been at home. 

Question 5. Am not competent to give an opinion. 
Judging from my own experience with severe winters, 
since my trees have been in bearing, with high cultiva- 
tion and proper pruning, there is little to be feared from 
frost in this locality, at least, from severe winters, as I 
have had abundant crops after such. 

Question 6. Last winter, 84-85, was a very severe 
one. All my trees bore good crops this season, except 
the Lawrence, which had been full the two preceding 
years. Hence, I repeat that, with trees properly cared 
for, fear of frost should not deter any one from growing 
this magnificent fruit. 

Question 7. My trees are planted 8x12. Hence, 
could only plough the first two or three years. Have 
dug (spaded) the ground once per year, in the Spring, 
and occasionally, again in the Fall, and kept weeds down 
during summer with hoe or hand cultivator. Dig as 
soon as ground is dry enough in Spring ; spade deep. 
This would not pay on a large scale, but not having the 
experience, cannot recommend a substitute plan. But 
I am well convinced that pear trees require, or are better 
to have, the soil thoroughly worked, at least, once per 
year. If in the Fall, then after growth has ceased. 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 333 

Question 8. As stated, have used stable manure 
composted. (If applied fresh, would put it on in the Fall 
or winter. Lime, Phosphates, Potash, Kainit, Bone, Salt, 
and a mixed compost. I regard the lime in moderate 
quantities with Bone and Potash as requisites. Would 
use wood ashes freely if I could obtain them. Bone, at 
the rate of looo lbs. to acre, yearly. Potash, a pint to a 
quart to each tree. Am not positive as to correct 
quantities of potash. Think P'all best time on the whole. 

Question 9. I prune largely in the Spring, but have 
made it a rule to take out a superfluous limb at almost 
any time when noticed. Believe Spring is the best time 
to prune. I varnish all wounds of any size with copal 
and alcohol. I have not hand-thinned fruit sufficiently 
to speak of results, but am of opinion that it will pay 
well, both for the sake of size and quality of fruit, and 
for the health of the tree. I think it especially necessary 
for Howell and Vicars. The former, on quince stock, at 
least, will injure themselves on rich ground, by large 
yearly crops. Keep ground rich and they outgrow the 
cutting soon. 

Question 10. Have no theory. I apply the saw 
promptly at first appearance, far down below the diseased 
portion of the limb, making sure to get well below any 
spots of blighted bark, even. Have never lost but one 
tree from blight, and it died when I was away ten 
months, as stated. Some of the most vigorous trees in 



334 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

my orchard now, were blighted years ago, and treated 
as above. I thoroughly protect the wounds with 
varnish. 

Question ii. Have suffered very little from worms 
in pear trees. If found, I waste no time before destroy- 
ing them. I think I have only found]them in one or two 
trees. 

Question I2. When trees were young, I had to 
combat the slug each season, but after three or four years 
the trees became too vigorous to be injured by them. I 
used any dust, powdered lime or coal ashes, sifted or 
thrown over the trees. If allowed to strip the trees of 
leaves when young, think they would be greatly injured 
thereby. 

Question 13. It is the worst enemy I have to con- 
tend against. They sting my fruit badly. I think it 
would pay to set lamps over tar, or some sticky sub- 
stance, at night, during the season when they deposit 
their eggs. Would be thankful for any prophylactic 
treatment you may be able to suggest. 

Question 14. None noticed in my orchard. 

Question 15. I have no experience. But if the 
Bartlett could be kept in good condition until our peach 
" glut" is over, I think it would pay here in Delaware. 

Question 16. Having used the greater part of my 
fruit for table, in canning and drying, I have little ex- 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 335 

perience. I have sold, for two years, our surplus fruit in 
Wilmington market, and at the orchard, to our citizens 
at good prices. Pears should be gathered as they mature, 
as soon as they will part from the twig when yet hard, 
and stored on shelves in thin layers, in dry cool fruit- 
room or cellar. 

Question 17. I think the Bartlett and Duchess have 
the finest flavor when evaporated. The Howell evapo- 
rates nicely but has not so fine a flavor. No experience 
in evaporating peaches. Dwarfs need to be well 
supported for several years to prevent heavy wind- 
storms from breaking them off at the point of union 
between the pear stock and quince. I set mine so that 
the point of union was four inches under ground, and 
adding fertilizers and composts, they are, probably, 
now six inches under ground. The greater part of my 
trees are rooted from the pear stock, making them in 
part standard ; they should always be set as above to 
secure this result. Am sorry not to be able to answer 
more reliably and concisely. 

Is pear growing profitable with you } Pear growing 
has paid us well. My experience leads me to believe, 
that, had I purchased a good farm in Delaware, Mary- 
land or Virginia, twenty years since, and planted in 
Standard and Dwarf pears, I should have made a hand- 
some pecuniary success of it. 



336 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

ANSWERS RECEIVED FROM GROWER, NO. 8. 

Question i. Beurre, Giffard, Manning's Elizabeth, 
Bartlett, Lawrence, same do well as Dwarfs. 

Question 2. I prefer the two together, 4000 on ten 
acres. On ten acres plant 1000 Standard and 3000 
Dwarfs. Standards twenty feet apart, Dwarfs ten feet 
between. 

Question 3. Good, sandy land, highly improved, not 
too much in valley. If too low, liable to blight. 

Question 4. No one knows. I suppose many penin- 
sula pear trees are one hundred years old ; I know Dwarf 
Bartletts thirty years old, doing well now. 

Question 5. Spring. 

Question 6. As many pear orchards do well in 
New England, suppose the trees are not injured by cold 
weather. 

Question 7. Early in Spring ; then cultivate often 
through season. This for young trees, up to ten years 
of age ; after that, I believe, they should not be ploughed 
so much. 

Question 8. Stable manure, bone meal, kainit and 
lime. 

Question 9. Standards ; cut out water sprouts. 
Dwarfs ; head back ^ in August. Never hand-thin ; two 
long a job for me. 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 337 

Question lo. Give it up, as all others have done. 
Cut off branch and burn it at otice. 

Question ii. No. 

Question 12. Yes. Dust the trees. 

Question 13. Yes, very much. 

Question 14. No. 

Question 15. Cannot say. Here it cannot be done 
to profit. Too many rot, it hurts the flavor. 

Question 16. Gather when pears (sound ones) begin 
to drop ; it does not hurt them to drop. Ship in peach 
baskets. 

Question 17. ist Bartlett, 2nd ditto, 3d ditto, 4th 
ditto ; all other kinds are hard to sell. 

Is pear-growing profitable with you .^ Ever since 
my orchard has been in bearing it has paid better (much 
better) than peaches. 

ANSWERS RECEIVED FROM GROWER, NO. 9. 

Question i. Bartlett and Lawrence for Standards ; 
Duchess for Dwarfs. 

Question 2. Standards ; they live longer and bear 
more fruit. 

Question 3. They have done well on all soils, but, 
perhaps, a good mixture of clay may be the best. Pears, 
22 



338 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

generally, were not good this year, but J. M. Chambers, 
of Dover, tells me that the best he bought came from 
my orchard, not far from the bay. Soil rather heavy. 

Question 4. I have both, twenty-seven years old. 

Question 5. Spring frost. The best crop of pears 
I have ever had was in 1880. The preceding winter was 
the coldest we ever had here, the mercury running as 
low as 18° below zero. The peach crop was entirely 
destroyed here. 

Question 6. No answer. 

Question 7. Early in Spring. Shallow. If I see 
any sign of blight I stop all cultivation. 

Question 8. I use none ; some manure very heavily. 
My pears, without manure, are better than theirs with 
manure, but their trees are healthy and bear regularly 
every year. 

Question 9. I have no particular system of trim- 
ming except to shape the tree properly and' keep off 
water sprouts. I have hand-thinned, but with no good 
results. 

Question 10. No one knows, and of course the 
treatment is empirical. 

Question 11. No. 

Question 12. Yes, but not so much within the last 
two years. I cannot say that they injure my trees. I 
spray whale oil soap over them. 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 339 

Question 13. Very much. 

Question 14. No. 

Question 15. Have never tried it. 

Question 16. My best market has been at home, to 
the canners. In 1884 I sold to a Cincinnati dealer at 
65 cents all through. This year I sold to a Dover 
evaporator for 43 cents per basket. I evaporated all the 
eanners did not want until my evaporator was destroyed 
by fire two years ago. Pears sell very slowly in the city 
markets. 

Question 17. Lawrence, first ; Bartlett, second. 
Peaches. Pears should be evaporated more slowly than 
peaches or with less heat. If hurried too fast their edges 
become dark, and this spoils there appearance. Some 
pears are not worth evaporating. Pear-growing is very 
discouraging. The trees are expensive, and after nursing 
them for twenty years, you do not know at what moment 
they may be stricken dead with blight. The market is 
very easily glutted and I do not think they ever will be 
grown very extensively. Authors differ widely as to the 
management of the pear orchard. Some say heavy 
manuring and frequent cultivation is best, others pursue 
an opposite course. Some say that starvation causes 
blight, others, that manuring and cultivation produce it. 
I have four Bartletts, dressed for the last four years, 
annually, with a load of good horse^dung. The blight 



340 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

has never hurt my Bartletts until two years ago, but 
two of these manured trees contracted the disease then. 
One of the healthiest pear trees I own is a Beurre d' 
Anjou in my yard. The grass has never been disturbed 
around it for sixteen years, but the yard is well dressed 
with manure and wood ashes every year. The blight 
has hurt my Beurre d' Anjou planted in my orchard and 
well cultivated, terribly. They were both out of the 
same nursery and planted at the same time. A very 
extensive nurseryman and fruit grower in New Jersey in 
whose judgment I have the greatest confidence tells me 
to cultivate pear trees until they are pretty well grown, 
then let them remain in sod, and manure them without 
cultivation. This plan just hits the tree in my yard. 
I have a block of trees in my orchard which I sowed in 
clover and mowed the clover around them for several 
years. During that time there was no blight among 
them, but not being manured they made slow growth of 
wood. When the clover ran out I commenced cultivating 
them and the blight has nearly ruined them. Another 
block of Beurre d' Anjou was put in clover at the same 
time. The trees were thrifty and vigorous while the 
clover was growing around them and bore most enormous 
crops of elegant pears, but as soon as we resumed their 
cultivation, the blight made its appe*ance and now 
many of the trees are dead. I planted eight Bartletts 
nearly thirty years ago in a very rich piece of land along 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 34I 

side my garden fence. They have never been tilled nor 
mowed around, but have born splendidly. One year I got 
over one hundred dollars from the eight trees. They have 
been free from disease. 1 have become very much dis- 
couraged with pears during the last three years, and have 
almost concluded to plant no more. The slugs have 
nearly all gone from my trees, but the deadly fire-blight 
has taken their place, and I can't tell where it is going to 
end. The leaf-blight has also given me a great deal of 
trouble. It does not kill the trees but causes them to 
shed their leaves, and thus ruins the fruit. Some of the 
nicest pears are not worth growing on account of the 
leaf blight. The tree blossoms, and sets a fine crop of 
fruit, but in August every leaf drops off, the fruit remains 
on the tree, but never ripens. All these trees I graft 
with Bartletts. So you will see that between the graft- 
ing for the leaf blight and the digging up for the fire- 
blight, I have had a sorry time with pear trees. Had I 
known as much before I began with them as I do now, 
I hardly think I should have gone into them as largely 
as I have. But I have made a bad bargain and am 
trying to make the most out of it I am able. 

ANSWERS RECEIVED FROM GROWER, NO. lO. 

Question i. One thousand Standard Bartlett, one 
thousand Dwarf Duchess. 



342 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

Question 2. I prefer those two varieties, one dwarf, 
the other standard ; they both come in bearing very- 
early and about the same time. 

Question 3. Rolling land, clay sub-soil. 

Question 4. About twenty years each. 

Question 5. In the spring. 

Question 6. No. 

Question 7. After a few years they are better with- 
out any cultivation. 

Question 8. Bone, about 400 lbs. per acre. 

Question 9. Standards need little pruning. Dwarfs 
cut back about one half of summer's growth for several 
years. 

Question 10. Not able to answer. Cut back 
heavily. 

Question 11. No. 

Question 12. Yes ; no ; none. 

Question 13. No. 

Question 14. No. 

Question 15. Never do so for market, do not think 
it pays. 

Question 16. Hand-pick them, ship them in boxes 
nearly tight. 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 343 

Question 17. Bartlett. 

Is pear culture profitable with you ? It has been 
very profitable. 

ANSWERS RECEIVED FROM GROWER, NO. II. 

Question i. Three-quarter Bartletts and the rest 
divided equally Howell and Lawrence. Neither of them 
should ever be dwarfed, they do not do well on quince. 
I would never plant any Dwarfs but the Duchess. 

Question 2. Nothing pays so well as the Bartlett, 
and as I say above, it should never be dwarfed. The 
Howell is a profitable pear but not so well known as 
Bartlett. The two most profitable pears are Bartlett 
and Duchess. 

Question 3. Good corn land a little stiff is the best, 
and ordinary rolling land not, exposed to strong winds 
and not wet in the sub-soil. 

Question 4. That depends in these days whether 
the blight is bad or not, and no one can foresee that. 

Question 5. I have never had any injury from frost. 
I think chilly east winds hurt the germ in this climate 
more than frost. 

Question 6. I have never known it do so in this 
locality. 

Question 7. I plough early, as soon as the ground 
is in condition for it, with a one-horse plough, and keep 



344 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

the ground cultivated enough to keep the weeds under, 
and until well-grown, plant beans, sweet corn, etc. 
While young, plough shallow near the trees, but ordi- 
nary depth away trom them. 

Question 8. Stable manure and muriate of potash. 
About 400 lbs. of potash once in three or four years and 
a dressing of manure yearly, especially while you crop 
the land. 

Question 9. Prune in March, usually, so as to make 
a good shaped tree. I always thin Bartletts and Duchess ; 
some years one-half or two-thirds of the fruit, thereby 
getting great increase in size and improvement in flavor. 

Question 10. I have not been able to form an opin- 
ion, and all I do is to cut it away as soon as it shows it- 
self. 

Question 11. Standard pear trees have no worms, 
and if the Dwarf are set right so that the quince is cov- 
ered by the soil, they will not be troubled by the borer. 

Question 12. Slugs check the growth of young 
trees. Dry dust is as good as anything to put over them, 
by the hand. 

Question 13. There is no pear curculio like the 
plum, apricot, etc., but a worm similar to the common 
apple worm ; and in thinning, if late enough to have it 
show, thin out the wormy ones. 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 345 

Question 14. No. 

Question 15. If you have enough to make it an ob- 
ject, you are more independent of the market, and when 
you do not wish to keep them into the late autumn or 
winter, they are better to be picked as soon as they will 
part from the stem readily and ripened in a cool, dark 
place. 

Question 16. Thus far I have prolonged the season 
all I could, and depended on the local market. Am not 
very well posted on these questions. 

Question 17. No experience. Is pear growing pro- 
fitable with you ? So far, pears have paid me well, as 
with the market garden I have had facilities for market- 
ing when in just good condition for retailing, but when 
my young orchard comes to bearing I shall have to ship 
them, and probably, they will not pay so well. Though 
from the nature of the fruit I do not think there is much 
danger that good pears will not sell in the eastern mar- 
kets, as ours are ripe nearly a month earlier than any in 
New York or New England. 

ANSWERS RECEIVED FROM GROWER, NO. 12. 

Question i. Have no experience south of Wil- 
mington. 

Question 2. Standards not subject to borers and are 
in general more healthy. Dwarfs are usually budded too 



34^ THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

high, and not planted deep enough to cover the quince 
stock. 

Question 3. Clay loam. If planted on the north 
side of a hill the blossoming is retarded and thus escape 
late frost. 

Question 4, Have no experience or information. 

Question 5. In Spring by late frost. I have seen, 
however, the tender Fall growth seriously injured by Fall 
frost. 

Question 6. I have never known pear buds to be 
killed by the cold. 

Question 7. A committee of the American Pomo- 
logical Society, appointed for the purpose, reported that 
pear trees did better in sod, being less subject to blight, 
and were more healthy generally. The committee trav- 
eled the United States, north and south. Their report 
was adopted. 

Question 8. Wood ashes all the time. If not to be 
had, make it of four per cent, potash, thirty-four per cent, 
lime, and two per cent, salt, balance soil. The best re- 
sult from stable manure, was when applied very heavy 
in the Fall around the trees, and spread in the Spring. 

Question 9. It depends upon the object desired. If 
for growth, trim while dormant. If too much growth 
and too little fruit, trim while in growth. Thin out 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 347 

parallel or crossing limbs at any time, but July and 
August are best. Also root prune if the tree has full 
size and no fruit. 

Question lo. That is a mystery. It is certainly a 
weakly condition of the tree which is greatly prevented 
by th^e wood ashes. No remedy but cutting out, and it 
should be severely done far below the affected part. 

Question ii. Standard pears are not wormy, and 
Dwarfs should not be, if properly budded and properly 
planted. 

Question 12. Slug is common and a serious injury 
to the tree. Dusting with air slaked lime or even with 
dry pulverized clay, will destroy them. 

Question 13. All fruits more or less. 

Question 14. I have not noticed any. 

Question 15. I have no experience, and but little 
information. I question its paying. I think Chas. 
Downing abandoned his fruit-house. 

Question 16. Most pears require picking ten days 
or two weeks before ripe, and if your market is distant, 
they might be shipped as gathered, and will ripen on the 
way. If near, store in a cool room or cellar and market 
when ripe. 

Question 17. I have no experience in evaporation. 
My experience is that it is not the cold that kills plants, 



348 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

such as roses, evergreens, etc., and perhaps, peach and 
other buds, but the sudden change when the sun strikes 
them. Florists always shade frosted plants, and 
thoroughly wet them to draw the frost gradually. I 
therefore believe that peach buds would be less injured 
on the north side of a hill, the sun's rays striking more 
obliquely. 

Is pear-culture profitable with you .? I am not at 
present cultivating pears, except having charge of a 
small orchard for another party, on a small scale. It is 
profitable. 

ANSWERS RECEIVED FROM GROWER, NO. 1 3. 

Question i. Have rather limited experience with 
full Standards, but would prefer Bartletts. For Dwarfs, I 
prefer Lawrence, Duchess, Flemish Beauty and Bartlett. 

Question 2. Standards, as they bear equally as soon 
for me. And they are longer lived and produce more 
fruit, from the fact the tree is larger, although half 
standards have done well for me. 

Question 3. Stiff soil, with red clay sub-soil. If 
possible, should be sheltered from the northwestern 
winds, and a valley would be far preferable. 

Question 4. I have one Standard tree, which is 
sixty years old, and still gives a profitable crop. I have 
no further experience with Standards, but my half 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 349 

Standards have been bearing for twenty years, and still 
yield good crops. 

Question 5. Late frost in Spring. 

Question 6. I have never suffered from winter 
killing. 

Question 7. As early as possible. Eight inches ; 
plow once a year and cultivate often, and in my judg- 
ment no weeds or grass should be allowed to grow in 
the orchard. 

Question 8. My principal fertilizer is coal ashes, 
and well rotted manure. Apply the last of November 
or first part of December, around and near the trunk of 
trees, about a shovel full of former, and two forks full of 
latter, occasionally, four hundred pounds of Kainit to the 
acre during fall or winter. Every Spring, cover ground 
liberally with stable manure. 

Question 9. Prune very little, merely to keep the 
branches from chafing ; very seldom hand thin. 

Question 10. I have never hfkd but one variety to 
blight, Vicar of Winkfield. As cure, I cut away the 
branches as they would blight, but I think the best 
remedy is to take the tree out. 

Question 11. I have never had occasion to worm, 
other than to look, occasionally, in case it would be 
necessary. 



350 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

Question 12. I do on my young dwarf orchard, but 
by using air slaked lime, we are getting rid of it. I do 
not think it injures the trees permanently. 

Question 13. It does, and seems to be on the 
increase. 

Question 14. None. 

Question 15. Have no experience. 

Question 16. As we sell our fruit in Wilmington 
market, retail, we prefer to hand-pick, put away in fruit 
room, cover with blankets uutil well colored, and place 
in small baskets. 

Question 17. No experience, but should suggest 
the Bartlett. 

Question 18. My pear crop pays the best of any 
crop we raise. 

ANSWERS RECEIVED FROM GROWER, NO I4. 

Question i. Bartlett and Lawrence are the best I 
have any knowledge t)f. I have the Beurre d'Anjou, a 
very fine pear, but will not keep so well as other 
varieties. It has very fine flavor. I only have the 
Duchess as Dwarf. 

Question 2. I would prefer both (Standards and 
Dwarfs). I find in my orchard, this year, my Standards 
bore more fruit, and some years it is the other way. 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 351 

Question 3. I want the location high, loamy and 
red clay sub-soil. I have part of my orchard on either 
flat land or a valley. The trees do not do well there, 
but where it is higher the trees are more thrifty and 
fruit better. We have no hills or slopes in our location, 
therefore, I cannot say as to that. Our land is rather 
level. 

Question 4. I suppose it depends entirely upon 
location, cultivation, fertilization, etc., as to the life. 
My orchard was set out in May, 1870, and, I believe, has 
borne fruit most every year, or as far back as I can 
remember, and the trees are healthy and look good for 
many years. 

Question 5. I have known my trees to be full of 
blossoms with but a small quantity of fruit, Then again 
no blossoms ; I think they are very much like a peach ; 
if very cold, the germ will be destroyed, or, if a late 
frost, when in blossom, they will be killed. It is hard 
to tell, unless a record is kept from year to year. 

Question 6. The roots of a Pear tree are close to 
the surface, and are subjected to extremes of heat and 
cold. 

Question 7. I have not been tilling my orchard for 
the last two years. Have it in grass ; let the hogs run 
in it. When Pear trees arrive at a certain age, they will 
not bear the cutting of roots, which is unavoidable if you 



352 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

plough, for the ground is a mass of roots, I believe I 
have lost good trees from that cause, but young trees 
should be ploughed and cultivated very shoal. 

Question 8. I use manure broadcast. I cover in the 
Spring, or, when I have the time, in Spring or Fall ; I 
prefer^the later, as you ought to get some benefit in 
next crop. 

Question 9. Prune slightly, have never hand- 
thinned, but believe if I had done so on several crops, 
would have paid. It is too great a risk here ; as a 
general thing, the trees thin themselves. 

Question 10. The slug, as some call it, eat the 
leaves ; of course the tree or limb is affected, or, in 
other words, the leaves to a tree are very much the same 
as the lungs to a being. I have thrown dust over the 
tree, and wherever it strikes a worm, it will fall. 

Question 11. I did this Fall, but did not find any 
worms or grub. We hoe around and examine around 
the roots of trees. I think the hogs have an excellent 
tendency to keep the trees healthy, as they will eat the 
fallen fruit. 

Question 12. We have them, and I notice the trees 
look healthy, but the fruit has been knotty and small. 
It may grow out of that in time. Sometimes the tree 
dies. 

Question 13. Can't say. 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 355 

Question 14. Have not seen any. 

Question 15. Most varieties are better when pulled 
early and ripened in a dark, cool place. But we have 
too many trees to contend with ; the early pears bring 
the money. The northern States can grow much finer 
pears than we can. 

Question 16. I think crates that hold a peach bas- 
ket will pay best. The late varieties I ship in baskets, as 
the market is generally glutted or over stocked. The 
Bartlett is the pear for us, for profit, as it comes early. 

Question 17. I cannot say, have not had any ex- 
perience in drying. I have a rather poor opinion of 
pears for the last two or three years, as there are so 
many grown, and not the demand there used to be. I 
don't think I would bother them, unless it might be the 
Bartlett. I found my pears did not keep well this year. 
My Lawrence generally keep until the first or middle 
of December, but this year they rotted on the tree, to 
an extent, and did not keep more than two weeks after 
picking. My experience and observation is rather limited 
on pear culture, although I have a fair sized orchard, but 
have not studied the pear much= 

ANSWERS RECEIVED FROM GROWER, NO. 1 5. 

Question i. 400 Bartletts. 100 Howell, 50 Vicar, 
100 Doyenne d'ete, 50 Bufifum, 100 Beurre d'Anjou, 100 
23 



354 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

Lawrence, 50 Bergamot and 50 Seckel. Do not know 
much about Dwarfs except Duchess. 

Question 2. Standards ; they bear more and longer. 

Question 3. Loam, with sandy sub-soil. Southwest 
or southeast side of hill. 

Question 4. Have not enough experience to say. 

Question 5. In Spring. 

Question 6. Think not. 

Question 7. Early in Spring, as shallow as possible, 
once. Harrow and one horse cultivator. 

Question 8. Stable manure and ashes, in Winter or 
early Spring, broadcast. 

Question 9. In Spring, early, thin out centre and 
cut off unsightly limbs. Did it once with good result. 

Question 10. Fertilizing or cultivating late in the 
season causing the trees to grow vigorously in the Fall, 
and the wood does not ripen before Winter. Cut back 
of it five or six inches. 

Question 11. No. 

Question 12. Not now, had them once, used dry dust 
when the dew was on. 

Question 13. I think it does, causing them to have 
a knot on one side. 

Question 14. No sir. 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 355 

Question 15. A cool, dry place is best to keep them. 
Have never tried a refrigerator. Think there is more 
money to me in selling pears in their season. 

Question 16. When they will come off in the hand 
by a slight pull ; kept until they are a pale yellow ; not 
too long ; in peach baskets. 

Question 17. Have no experience. Is pear grow- 
ing profitable with you ? Fairly so, the blight has in- 
jured many of my trees. 

ANSWERS RECEIVED FROM GROWER, NO. 16. 

Question i. Standard : 5oClapps Favorite, 400 Bart- 
lett, 150 Sheldon, 50 Duchess, 200 Seckel, 50 Beurre 
d'Anjou, 50 Howell, 50 Lawrence. 1000 Dwarf: Duchess, 
Bartlett, Louise Bonne de'Jersey, Vicar of Winkfield. 

Question 2. Prefer Standards, as they come into 
bearing nearly as soon as Dwarfs, are longer lived, make 
larger and more productive trees, less liable to accident 
from wind and teams, also not as susceptible to blight. 

Question 3. Clay loam, not heavy or light, with 
good drainage, hill side with moderate slope southerly, 
if possible, wind-breaks of pines or spruce on north or 
west sides 1 think of great advantage. 

Question 4. No answer. 

Question 5. Spring. 



356 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

Question 6. Do not think they are often injured by 
low temperature in this climate, if wood is fully matured. 

Question 7. Plow early as the ground will permit ; 
shoal, not over 4 to 5 inches, then keep weeds down and 
the ground in order with harrow and cultivator. Do not 
like too many varieties for market orchard. 

Question 8. Barnyard manure and ashes. 

Question 9. Prune every Spring. Never hand-thin 
to any extent. 

Question 10. Cannot tell the cause. Cut the limbs 
below any blight on bark. 

Question 11. Not often, have punched the borers 
with wire, occasionally. 

Question 12. Never have been troubled with slugs. 
Know of one orchard ruined by them. They could find 
no remedy. 

Question 13. To some extent; some seasons more 
than others. 

Question 14. Have not noticed any. 

Question 15. No answer. 

Question 16. No answer. 

Question 17. No answer. Is pear growing profit- 
able with you ? Yes. 



pp:ach and the pear. 357 

answers received from grower, no. i 7. 

Question i. Standard — Manning's Elizabeth, Bart- 
lett, LeConte and Kiefifer. Dwarfs —Manning's E., Bart- 
lett, Howell, and Duchess. 

Question 2. I prefer Dwarfs, for the reason they 
blight less on my soil. In the future I shall plant all 
Dwarfs except the Le Conte and Kieffer. They have to 
be as Standards. 

Question 3. A medium loam with open sub-soil. I 
prefer high, rolling land. Easterly exposure, if possible. 

Question 4. I do not know. I have a vigorous 
dwarf Duchess tree that was planted in 1856. 

Question 5. In the Spring. 

Question 6. No. 

Question 7. I plough as soon as the ground is dry 
enough in the Spring, froro three to four inches deep, 
only once. Then we keep the ground thoroughly worked 
with the cultivator and spring tooth harrow until some 
time in August. 

Question 8. I use dissolved Ammoniated Bone, 300 
lbs. per acre, and well rotted stable manure, which I com- 
post in the fall and apply it around the trees the follow- 
ing Spring, just before ploughing. Stimulating manures 
should be avoided. 



358 . THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

Question 9. We prune young trees, but bearing 
trees require very little. It will pay to hand-thin the 
fruit when trees are overloaded. 

Question 10. I don't know. When a tree blights, 
we dig it out and plant another. 

Question 11. No. 

Question 12. Yes. It does. I use White Helle- 
bore, two pounds dissolved in eighty gallons of water. 
Apply it to the trees by means of Fountain Pump. 

Question 13. Very rarely. 

Question 14. No. 

Question 15. Have had no experience. 

Question 16. Pick carefully ; pack in baskets, and 
keep in a cool dry-house. 

Question 17. Bartlett, LeConte, and Kieffer. The 
pear is much easier to evaporate than the peach. 

Is pear-growing profitable with you } Pear-growing 
is profitable with me, but it requires great attention. I 
fruited the LeConte pear this season, and am very much 
pleased with it. It ripens after Duchess, and is of fine 
flavor. It should be planted on its own root, as it is too 
strong a grower for any other stock. I believe it is 
blight-proof 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 359 

ANSWERS FROM GROWER, NO. l8. 

My experience in the twenty years of growing pears 
is not satisfactory, so far as paying for land and labor 
goes, but I do not condemn the culture of pears. I 
think that I selected a flat piece of land, which was not 
adapted to the healthy growth. I would not be afraid 
to plant an orchard on your farm where Mr. Hill resides. 

1st. I would plant 999 Bartletts, out of 1000 
Standard pears, for this locality. 

2d. The Duchess are the best and only dwarfs, so 
far as my trial goes, that pays. I prefer the Bartlett 
above all others, because of their good quality for ship- 
ping, and regular bearing qualities, and if the slug should 
strike them so as to injure the fruit, you can get some- 
thing out of them by drying them. They are the only 
pear that pays to dry. The Duchess are good bearers, 
and if planted properly, will live to be old trees. I have 
them twenty years old, looking fresh and in regular 
bearing, but the fruit is only fit for market in a ripe 
state ; will not dry. In starting an orchard, a small 
quantity of ashes around the trees with good cultivation 
is best. 

3d. The best land is high, well drained, with a 
little gravel sub- soil. 

4.th. I cannot tell how long a standard pear will 
live, but my orchard is twenty years old, and the 
Duchess with the Bartletts, are alike vigorous. 



360 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

5th. I have never known them to be injured with 
frost only in Spring, when in full bloom. 

6th. In 1881, when the peaches were all killed, the 
pears were not injured. 

7th. I do not want to plough until the ground is in 
good order ; for the first three years, only for a few furrows 
around the tree ; regular ploughing after that, two to 
three inches, after they get to regular bearing, is about 
the right depth. Corn or potatoes can be alternated as 
the best crops, and after three years, cultivate without 
any crop for a year or two. I found that by letting my 
orchard lay in grass after the blight struck it, I got 
entirely rid of the disease. I may be mistaken, but my 
impression is that high cultivation before they come in 
full bearing, is conducive to blight. I found that the 
blight always commenced about the middle of June, and 
always commenced on the new growth, and by letting 
my orchard go for three years it ceased to appear, and 
since that time I have not worked it only about every 
two years, leaving a grass plot around the trees. They 
bear regular and good fruit. I do not think that any 
fertilizer should be used very heavy. Wood and coal 
ashes I have found to be all that is wanted on my soil. 
A mulch of straw in the Fall would be of use while young. 
I trimmed until I got them in good shape. After they 
begin to bear, I think they need but little trimming. I 
have never found worms to trouble them. I have never 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 361 

been troubled with slug. If they continue, they will 
injure the tree. Some say, who have been troubled with 
slug, that dry dust of lime, or ashes, or road, sprinkled 
over the trees in the morning when the dew is on, is a 
remedy. I never heard of the curculio injuring pears. 
We have no new disease or insect in our neighborhood. 
I answered the rest of your questions on the paper you 
sent me ; if you will excuse me for my long epistle, I 
will close ; it will give me pleasure to answer anything 
I have omitted. 

Question 15. If they could be kept when we have 
a crop of peaches without too much expense until the 
middle of November so as to have them firm (I speak of 
the Bartlett) I have no doubt that they would bring a 
better price. 

Question 16. I have no doubt that a nice, oblong 
box, something shape and size of the orange box, with 
paper lining placed careful, would be the best package to 
put in when hard, and then they should be kept in a dark 
place to ripen. 

Question 17. The only pear that I have in my 
orchard that is fit to dry is the Bartlett. 

In my letter I said that in selecting a pear orchard 
I would plant 999 Bartletts out of 1000 Standards, but 
in thinking over my orchard I overloooked the Lawrence. 
They are a Fall pear and com.e in a good time and sell 



362 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

well. The Bartlett pear does not take as much heat to 
evaporate as the peach. It is more like the apple. In 
planting out an orchard of 1000 standard pears I would 
first select 800 Bartletts, 175 Lawrence and 25 Seckel. 
I would plant the standards, say 20 ft. square, and in the 
centre, as dotted, the Dwarfs. 

S S S 

D D 

s s s 

Is pear growing profitable with you ? No answer. 

ANSWER RECEIVED FROM GROWER, NO. I9. 

Lower Delaware. 
Dr. John J. Black, 

New Castle, Del. 
Dear Sir : — I am in receipt of your printed inquiries 
concerning the growing of pears, and regret that I am 
unable to send you a satisfactory answer. I do not regard 
the pear crop as a profitable one for us, and have never 
engaged largely in its culture. 

Answer received from grower, no. 20. 

New Castle County, Del. 

Your list of questions was received, last week. I do 

not think I can answer any of them so that I would be 

willing for a person to put any faith in what I said. I 

have not interested myself in pear culture since I have 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 363 

been farming. When our orchard first came into bearing 
we thought some varieties paid fairly well but we were 
troubled with blight and slug. The orchard has passed 

out of my hands — owning the farm where the 

pear orchard is. If it were mine I would have had it 
pulled up long ago ; it still stands, worth nothing, I 
consider. I am very sorry I cannot give you more definite 
information, but our experience with pears is not very 
favorable, owing to blight and slug. 

ANvSWERS RECEIVED FROM GROWER, NO. 21. A NEW 
JERSEY GROWER. 

Question i. 200 Lawson, 20oBartlett, 200 LeConte, 
400 Kieffer, 1000 Standards : 200 Lawson, 200 Clapp's 
Favorite, 200 Bartlett, 200 d'Anjou, 200 Duchess, 1000 
Dwarfs. 

Question 2. We prefer Standards to Dwarfs because 
most varieties succeed better on pear than on quince. 
They are longer lived and produce more fruit. 

Question 3. We think the best soil for a pear is a 
sandy loam with sub-soil of clay or gravel, and on hill. 
They are less liable to blight than if in valley. 

Question 4. Pear orchards should continue in profit, 
if properly cared for, fifty to seventy-five years for Stand- 
ards, and twenty-five to thirty years for Dwarfs. 

Question 5. We think the pear crop is most fre- 
quently injured by frost in Spring. 



S6\. THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

Question 6. Have never known pear buds to be 
killed by low temperature in Winter. 

Question 7. We plow early in Spring, 4 to 6 inches 
deep and keep thoroughly cultivated until about middle 
of August ; after which we think best to have no culti- 
vation, that the wood may ripen up. In Fall, on ap- 
proach of Winter, plow furrows to the trees, leaving 
clear midway between the rows to carry off water. 

Question 8. We have used Kainit and wood ashes 
with good results, sown broadcast in winter. 

Question 9. We prune young trees by cutting off 
two-thirds the young growth in Winter, and thinning out 
branches where too thick. As the trees become older and 
make less growth, we take off one-half the young growth 
and after they come into heavy bearing they will need 
little, if any pruning. Where the fruit is set too thick, 
it will improve the size and quality by thinning it. 

Question 10. We do not know the cause of pear- 
blight. The way to treat it is to cut off the affected part 
and burn it. 

Question 11. The pear tree should be wormed at 
the collar in Fall of year, same as peaches. 

Question 12. We have slug ; they check the growth 
of the tree for the present season by eating the leaves ; 
don't think it any permanent injury unless continued 
yearly. 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 365 

Question 13. No answer. 

Question 14. Have not observed any. 

Question 15. By cold storage, some varieties, such 
as Bartlett, that ripen at times the markets are over- 
stocked, may be held to advantage. Where kept in 
damp or wet cold storage, we think the quality is dete- 
riorated ; when dry it is not affected. 

Question 16. The best manner of gathering the 
fruit is by light step ladders of convenient size for larger 
trees. We pick in baskets. For shipment, pack in 
bushel boxes, furnished by New York commission men. 

Question 17. We believe the Kieffer to be the best 
pear for evaporating, canning, or preserving. Second, 
LeConte. 

Is pear growing profitable with you ? The following 
sorts are profitable : Lawson, Bartlett, LeConte, Kieffer, 
and Lawrence. Lawson being very early, beautiful, and 
productive, we think will be very valuable in Delaware 
and Maryland. 

ANSWER RECEIVED FROM PEAR GROWER, NO. 22. 

Dr. John J. Black, 

New Castle, Delaware. 
My Dear Dr. Black : — I think I had better give you 
my experience in the pear business in my own way 
instead of answering your printed questions in detail. 



366 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

About twenty-one years ago harrassed me until 

I gave him an order for pear trees. I frankly told him I 
could not tell him what varieties to send me, but he 
declared he knew, and would send me paying kinds. 

Before he sent them, I went to and asked him to 

release me from the order, telling him I was of the 
opinion I was leaving too much to him. He declared he 
knew the paying varieties and would send them to me. 
He sent me a great many kinds — all sorts of French 
names — but only three or four were worth anything, 
Lawrence, Bartlett and Duchess, were good. The others 
were bought as refuse from a nursery in New Jersey, and 
from this refuse I got most of my trees. A good many 
were dead when they arrived, which the seller, to me, 
acknowledged with tears in his eyes, and left the 
amount of his bill to me to determine. I paid the whole 
amount $800, when, in truth, I did not owe him one cent. 
He really was in debt to me. I afterwards found he was 
in the habit of crying when he had an unjust account. 
Bartlett, Duchess and Lawrence have always borne well 
with me, and paid handsomely, until this year. Duchess 
is a Dwarf pear and does well. I have seen it as 
Standard, but it did not do well. Bartlett and Lawrence 
bear so soon, and do so well as Standards, it seems to 
me, useless to have them any other way on my stiff soil, 
(stiff yellow clay). I cultivated my trees until they 
were six or seven years old ; I then penned my sheep in 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 367 

the orchard at night, when the snow was off the ground ; 
when snow is on the ground the sheep will bite the trees. 
Sheep manure Pear trees better than any other way I 
ever saw them manured. Whether the sheep kept off 
the slug, or not, I can't say, but my trees have never 
been troubled with slug, and my neighbors' have. When 
I first sent pears to market they wanted them ripe ; now 
the dealers want to ripen them themselves. If they are 
all ripe they have to use them at once. If they are not 
ripe they can hasten them or keep them back. There is 
no pear equal to the Bartlett for canning or drying. I 
believe there will be a great demand for evaporated 
Bartletts. I find the northern pears are sent to market 
in kegs ; they bring more than ours, but they are said to 
be finer and smoother than ours. I replanted the dead 

trees I got from with Bartletts, and I did right. 

They have borne well, and have been fine, and paid well 
until this year. They did not pay at all this year, 
because they were not as good as usual, and the season 
was so late. 



This letter sounds so true to nature, to those who have 
suffered, and is the same old story as told over an over 
again, by the good people of the Peninsula. Could they 
have had proper guides in fruit culture, such cases never 
could have occurred, and a knowledge of this fact has 
greatly stimulated me in preparing this book. 



Chapter XVIII. 



THE QUINCE. 

I don't know of any large quince orchards on the 
Peninsula, but I do know that a great many trees have 
been planted, and that the results have not been satis- 
factory, and for this reason quince culture will be voted 
a failure by nearly every one who has attempted it. 
The whole, or a great part of the trouble, lies in the 
method of treatment. I have planted during the last 
thirteen years, probably, two hundred trees, but until 
recently, for lack of time and opportunity, have paid 
very little attention to them, and for this reason they 
have not been profitable to me, and since I have looked 
well into the matter, I see the reason and propose to 
remedy it, and to make my past experience of avail to 
the good of my fellow fruit-growers. My trees have 
been worked and treated, generally, like pear trees, and 
have thus lacked proper quince methods. 

The quince is a small deciduous tree, almost shrub- 
like if left to nature. It is indigenous to the south of 
Europe, and was highly esteemed by the ancient Greeks 
24 



370 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

and Romans, both as food and medicine. The blossoms 
are large, beautiful white and pink, and appear late. 
The quince is not fit for food, raw, but for preserving, it is 
excellent, and is useful to give flavor and consistency to 
other preserves, and the seeds are much used for their 
mucilage in jellies, and as a demulcent in medicine. 
The two forms of apple quinces and pear quinces are 
the usual kinds. The apple is finer, but the pear is 
ready for market first. The Angers is, probably, the 
most useful variety, being so much used for grafting the 
pear to, and thus dwarfing it. 

The quince is easily propagated from seed, or by 
laying it, or from cuttings. By cuttings is the proper 
way. Cut them in the Fall, heel them in and protect 
them through the Winter, and plant them in the Spring, 
where the sun won't be too strong on them. The quince 
can also be propagated by budding, and for this purpose 
use the Angers roots. Budding is the most certain way, 
probably, to perpetuate a variety. 

The quince needs a good, rich, sandy loam, and if a 
stream is near it the better it thrives, or a pond, or any 
water. If for an orchard, plant twelve by twelve feet, 
or what is better, fifteen feet by ten feet. The quince is 
planted the same way as dwarf pears, and to grow them 
successfully, must be treated exactly as follows, or you 
will fail entirely, except the tree be near a smoke house, 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 3/1 

or in some selected garden spot. These trees will grow 
with any treatment. I refer now to field culture. 

The soil I say must be deep and rich, and thoroughly 
drained, with some sand in it. If near salt water, so 
much the better, and hence, I would recommend the field- 
culture of quinces in the southern part of the Peninsula 
near salt water. They must be mulched heavily every 
Fall, long coarse hay, salt hay, or straw or leaves will 
do. The fine roots run close to the ground and must be 
protected from the frost of our Winters. Tramp around 
them occasionally to drive out the mice during the cold 
weather, and especially near Spring. In the Spring, 
scatter the Autumn mulch around the tree as far as the 
branches extend, and give the tree a dressing of from 
three to five pounds of muriate of potash, the amount 
depending on the size of the tree, one year, and the next 
year a like amount of Kainit scattered around as far as 
the branches extend, and so alternating from year to 
year. Now as soon as the weather gets warm, fork over 
the ground to the depth of three inches only, with a 
common dung fork, re-mulch with salt hay, if you can 
get it ; if not, any straw, hay, or leaves will do. Two or 
three times during the summer, scatter salt over the 
mulch ; this keeps up moisture and the quince delights in 
salt. It will be seen we have not ploughed the ground. 
Well, the secret of success is, not to use the plough, as it 
disturbs the roots of the quince, they being so superficial. 



372 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

Mulching and the forking over the ground is all that is 
needed. Every August, examine closely for the borer, 
and this will upturn the earth a little near the roots of 
the trees ; watch the borer or it will kill the tree. The 
quince sometimes blights, but probably only when near 
pears that have blighted. Treat it as for pear blight. 
Now an important point is to properly prune the quince. 
You must cut back the young growth in Winter or early 
Spring, one-half, and cut out all over-lapping and useless 
branches ; in fact train it more as a pear tree and not let 
it grow to a bush. In mulching, it will be seen I did not 
recommend green manures. Well, the reason is as I have 
so often before stated, I don't believe green manure 
ought to be put near any fruit tree until after it has been 
thoroughly composted, and I am a little afraid of its 
bacterial producing properties, even then. Now, as to 
the varieties of the quince to plant, it don't make so 
much difference what kind, provided, you follow the 
directions I have given for cultivation. There are the 

Angers, 

Champion, 

Orange or Apple, 

Pear, 

Reas' Mammoth, 

Meech's Prolific. 

I can raise good Angers, or Orange, or Champion, 
©r any other kind with right and proper treatment. The 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 373 

Champion has shown the best fruit I have seen, and I 
have heard Meech's Prolific highly eulogized. With my 
present knowledge, if I was planting largely I would 
plant some of Angers, and largely of Orange and Cham- 
pion, and especially Champion. 

I hope Peninsula growers, and particularly those in 
the lower counties bordering on salt water, will take up 
the quince and test it freely, and I feel sure, if they 
follow the rules I have laid down, another success will be 
added to the realm of Peninsula fruit culture. 

THE SPANISH CHESTNUT. 

I find, often, when our Peninsula farmers wish to 
plant shade trees, and ornament their grounds, they 
select the maple, and various rapid growing deciduous 
trees and evergreens, all very handsome, and necessary, 
often, to get quick growth and shade ; but, nevertheless, 
I think it unfortunate that more attention is not paid to 
the useful nut-bearing trees, and right here, I want to 
say that I urge this planting of nut-bearing trees among 
our good peninsula people, and particularly do I recom- 
mend the Spanish chestnut and the English walnut or 
Maderia nut, and, for the benefit of their children's 
children, the Shellbark, which is only an extra fine speci- 
men of our common hickory nut, with favorable sur- 
roundings. These trees are all ornamental, and the 



374 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

Chestnut and Walnut rapid growing, and thus desirable 
shade trees. I have no doubt they would all be 
decidedly profitable if cultivated with that end in view. 

THE SPANISH CHESTNUT. 

We can read the history of all large chestnuts in 
this country not derived from the native American 
sweet chestnut, in the name Spanish Chestnut. Yet all 
are not Spanish Chestnuts. There is the Downton from 
England, and the Lude from Scotland, and many other 
varieties, but when we speak of Spanish Chestnuts we 
mean all these large chestnuts, not native to this 
country. There is now one exception, the large, sweet, 
Japanese Chestnut, which nurserymen are introducing, 
and which, I hope, may prove even larger, sweeter and 
better than the Spanish, but it has not been thoroughly 
tested on this Peninsula as to hardiness, and I wont yet 
recommend it. The meat of all these nuts is excellent 
when cooked, and only inferior in flavor to our smaller, 
sweet native chestnut. 

These large chestnuts are in great demand by con- 
fectioners, and from them they make the well known 
and delicious bon bon, Maron Glace ; and here, let me 
tell you young men of the peninsula, these Marons 
Glaces are dearly loved by coy maidens. I have no 
doubt, extended production would develope many uses 
for these desirable nuts. Chestnuts are very easily 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 375 

propagated. You may plant the seed in the Fall where 
you want the tree to grow. Put in one or two inches 
deep, and in the Spring it will sprout and grow. A good 
way is to take up a sod, drop the nUt and return the sod, 
grass side down ; you may lay the nuts in a sandy bed in 
the Fall, let them get the action of the winter frost and 
in the Spring they will sprout. These had better be 
transplanted to nursery row, and planted a year or two 
old. You may also graft the Spanish Chestnut, on our 
sweet chestnut, but this is tedious. A good way is to 
take a seedling Spanish Chestnut, and then take scions 
from some good and well-known Spanish tree, bearing 
good nuts, and graft it. Thus you are more sure of 
getting good productive trees. I assure you those you 
buy from the average nurseryman are not always pro- 
ducers of the very best nuts. Selection and cultivation, 
and increased demand, will cause our peninsula nursery- 
men, intelligent and active men as they are, to remedy 
all this. 

Now one secret about planting these trees. What- 
ever size when you plant them, cut them back at that 
time to two buds, and train your tree from the best one 
of these. If, after several years, a tree dont do well, cut 
it back to two buds and train over again. All chestnuts 
revel in such amputations, and I learned this secret of 
thus raising Spanish Chestnuts from John Landers the 
well-known Gardener and Horticulturist, who, with his 



376 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

equally well-known sons, own and carry on the Rosedale 
Gardens on Landers Avenue, New Castle, Delaware. 

As to the cultivation of Spanish Chestnuts, treat 
them just as I recommended the quince to be treated, by 
mulches, etc., and with little or no stirring of the ground, 
and watch them about the roots for worms. I formerly 
cultivated them like pears, and at the suggestion of one of 
my tenants, Mr. Charles S. Hill, I ceased cultivating 
them, and from that time they thrived splendidly, and 
now I have some magnificent and fruitful trees. 

THE ENGLISH WALNUT OR MADEIRA NUT. 

A delicious nut in great demand, and largely im- 
ported into this country, when we ought to raise all of 
them at home. I can recommend it from personal ' 
experience as entirely hardy on the Peninsula, as a very 
rapid grower, and as producing large crops, annually, of 
delicious nuts. It may be propagated by planting the 
seed where you wish the tree to grow, but decidedly the 
best plan is to sprout in the nursery, transplant to 
nursery row, and plant the tree, at from one to three 
years old. It grows right off and gives no trouble, and 
is to be treated like the Quince and Spanish Chestnut, 
except it does not require to be cut back. Its only fault I 
see is, that the wood is rapid growing and hence, brittle, 
and is more liable to injuries by wind-storms than sur- 
rounding trees. An avenue bordered by Spanish Chest- 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 3/7 

nuts and English Walnuts would form a lovely approach 
to any of our bright and inviting Peninsula homes. 

SHELLBARK. 

This nut-bearing tree, by cultivation and care in 
reproduction, might be greatly improved, and although 
very slow-growing, should be planted in groves, about 
lawns and such places. They are a delicious nut, and 
to my taste are equal, if not superior, in flavor, to any 
other. 

ENGLISH FILBERTS. 

I have planted some of these. They grow slowly, 
and I should prefer the other nuts I have described. 

These comprise about all the nuts and fancy trees I 
wish to speak of, or, at present, recommend ; but on my 
Fruit Farm at Black's Station, Kent Co., Maryland, any 
one wishing to see a great variety of growing nuts and 
fruits, will be gladly welcomed by Mr. C. S. Hill, the 
intelligent manager of the farm. 

THE DUTY OF PENINSULA FRUIT GROWERS TO ONE 

ANOTHER. 

In the maxim "In union there is strength," there is 
much that concerns Peninsula Fruit Growers. They 
should stand together in all that pertains to an honest 
transaction of their business ; they should stand 
together in obtaining such laws from the State, as shall 



378 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

protect and foster their business, honestly spurning 
anything like legislation for the purpose of giving one 
single suspicion of advantage to them over any other 
citizen, be he high or be he low. The fruit grower needs 
no special legislation, for all laws that benefit him will 
be for the general good. In order to stand together, 
the intelligent growers of the whole Peninsula, if 
possible, (if not, let the Delaware Growers make the 
advance,) should establish a Horticultural Society, and 
let its one aim be the discussion of fruits, and the 
advancement of the interests of the fruit growers, and 
so the interests of all the good people dwelling within 
the jurisdiction of this Society. This meeting together 
of the leading men in the fruit-growing business, can 
only lead to good results, and the good effect will be 
apparent in better methods and better results, as wit- 
nessed in Massachusetts, Michigan, New Jersey, and 
many other States. 

Let the Peninsula Fruit-growers gird on their 
armor, let them lead, not follow, and as Providence has 
so abundantly favored them, so let them be abundantly 
thankful, and so be doubly watchful and industrious. 

THE DUTY OF THE STATE TO HER FRUIT INTERESTS. 

As a mother fosters her children, so should the 
State foster those interests which bring health, wealth 
and happiness to her citizens, and without disparaging 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 379 

any of the other great industries, what is of more 
importance to her people than this very fruit interest ? 
That which has made us both fame and fortune, and 
which with cheery help and faithful watching, bids fair to 
render us as celebrated in song and story as ever was 

" That delightful province ®f the sun, 

The first of Persian lands he shines upon ?" 

Although what I have to say here applies to the 
whole Peninsula, yet I iee\ at liberty to more particularly 
address the citizens of my own State. 

As I have said in the Preface to this book, one only 
has to enter upon work such as I have entered upon in 
the preparation of this volume, to see how little foster- 
ing care such a great interest as the fruit interest 
receives from the State. I say to you, men of Delaware, 
these great interests are threatened, and threatened more 
and more, as population increases and the cultivation of 
trees and plants is multiplied. Just as in the history of 
mankind, as he increases and multiplies, obeying the 
injunction of Holy Writ, zymotic disease appears. 
Every hamlet becomes a plague spot, and his very 
palaces, much more his hovels, become as sepulchres, and 
thus mock the proud assertions of his boasted civiliza- 
tion. And as with mankind, so with the fruits with 
which God has favored him ; only crowd them, then 
pamper them, starve them, or treat them as you will, 
here again the zymotic enemy swoops down, and the 



380 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

boasted beauty of Pomona yields to the cruel ravages of 
this relentless enemy. 

So it must ever be, and as God has declared that 
man must earn his bread by tne sweat of his brow, so to 
enjoy all the good things of earth He has given us, we 
must be watchful of them and labor for their protection. 
I believe it to be the duty of the State to act at once for 
her fruit interests now so seriously menaced by enemies 
on every hand. Look at France ; her industries and 
almost her very existence saved by the work of one 
man, the great and illustrious Pasteur. With a faithful 
wife and daughter, for five years did he diligently investi- 
gate the silk worm disease, and now from that study the 
origin of the trouble is traced to the moth with peculiar 
concentric rings. These moths are all destroyed now in 
silk culture, or rather their eggs are destroyed, and those 
eggs only are saved from moth, free from rings. These, 
hatching, form cocoons and the silk crop is assured. So 
again he has immortalized himself and rendered France 
unbounded service by his investigations into the fermen- 
tation of wine and destroying the germs by high tempera- 
ture. So with the cattle and sheep pests has he wrestled 
and conquered, as well as with the diseases of the vines. 

Given the opportunity, and the world will turn up 
Pasteurs as occasion will demand ; and now right on this 
Peninsula, we have the opportunity for just such a man. 
Here we have peach yellows, pear blight, the rust of 



PEACH AND THE PEAR. 381 

blackberries, the pear slug, the asparagus beetle ; in fact 
a thorn to every rose in our garden. We need a director 
of horticulture or fruit inspector, or by what ever title he 
be designated. He should be appointed by the State 
and paid a living salary, a good salary, with the under- 
standing he is employed as a scientist and is to devote 
his time, yea, his very life, to the interests he is called 
upon to protect. We can't expect to get a Pasteur or 
a Koch, or a Leidy at the start, but the man should be a 
trained scientist and at the same time have some prac- 
tical knowledge of his subject, or at least be an apt 
scholar at learning the practical parts. 

His duty, in part, should be to investigate all fruit 
pests — all fruit tree diseases — and everything relating to 
the enemies of fruits, and his studies may be carried to 
the cereals, too. He should publish an annual report of 
his work, and give full statistics of all our fruits, and all 
matters pertaining to them. Give us such a man, capa- 
ble to fill such an office, and his first report will be the 
greatest and most truthful advertisement the State ever 
received. Give us this man and our industries will be 
enriched by the protection and very salvation of the 
fruit interests, the greatest of all our industries. Give us 
this man, and I guarantee, for every penny the State 
pays for his services, w?e and our children, and our 
children's children, will get in return, thousands upon 
thousands of dollars, and the gratitude of thousands of 



382 THE CULTIVATION OF THE 

people yet unborn. Oh, men of Delaware, would that I 
were gifted with the eloquence of a Mirabeau or the 
persuasive oratory of a Choate, that I might burn these 
words into your very souls, and raise you willingly and 
quickly to action. Oh, study this question well, I beg of 
you who are to represent us in the coming legislature. 
Be up and doing. Let ihe living echoes of modern 
progress from far-off France be ever ringing in your ears. 
Let the voice of the great Pasteur encourage you. Our 
little State is small, in the past she has been conserva- 
tive, we all know, perhaps, that was meet for her 
modesty, and for her good ; but now, men of Delaware, 
let us raise her from her dignified repose of centuries, 
let us teach her that her past conservatism carried 
beyond the just merits of her being, may be but the 
fore-runner of future disintegration. No, the Diamond 
State will take no step backward, she will advance in 
the front line of modern progress, and modern ideas ; 
and so let her carry her flag, and, overshadowed in body 
though she be, by States of larger degree, let us strive 
for her, let us encourage her, let us support her, and let 
us so form her record in the future, as it has ever been 
with her in the past ; that all may admiringly say, as 
she passes in review among the galaxy of States, stand 
up little Delaware, let us judge thee by thy soul. 

THE END. 



Note. — In planting all fruit trees it is well to familiarize yourself with 
the blossoms, and see that trees with any defect in the stamens, as where the 
stamens are dwarfed or absent, are planted near some variety having perfect 
blossoms. This is very important in apple culture, in peach culture, in pear 
culture, in fact, in the cultivation of all fruits; although in large orchard cul- 
ture, with many varieties, failure, from the nature of the sun-oundings, don't 
often happen. In peaches, for example, as the Fox's Seedhng has a better 
blossom than the Crawford's Late or Reeves, plant them near each other. In 
plums, the Wild Goose plum has an imperfect blossom and needs a plum with 
a perfect blossom near it to fertilize it, and so on. With these precautions I 
believe the weaker blossoms will be less likely to'be injured by frost. — J. J. B. 



INDKX. 



ERRATA. 



Page 30, eighth hne from bottom, insert the word "not" between the 
words " probably " and "been." 

Page 226, ninth hne from bottom, "Japanese" should be "Oriental." 

Page 228, eleventh line from bottom, "Louis" should be "Louise." 

Page 239, seventh line from bottom, "Clairgean" should be "Clairgeau." 

Page 251, third line from top, the word "Eastern" should be "Easter." 

Page 253, first line, "reduce" should be "elevate." 

Page 260, last word of fifteenth line from top, "to," should be "from," 



INDBX. 



A. 

Acid, phosphoric, as a fertilizer, 65 

Ammonia as a fertilizer, 65 

Analysis of the pear wood and bark, 270 

" " " " ash, 271 

Analyses of healthy and diseased peach wood, 57-58 

" " " " " pear " 270 

Anatomy, physiology and development of the pear tree, 207 

Answers to questions from Peninsula peach growers, 153-201 

" " " " •' pear " 317, 367 

Aphis Petsica, or peach louse, loi 

Apple worm, 292 

Areoda Lanigera, Goldsmith Beetle, The 297 

Ashes, wood, as a fertilizer in peach culture, 62 

B. 

Bacteria bred by green manures, 217 

Bacteria the cause of yellows and curled leaf, 73, 96 

Bark lice, how to destroy them, 102, 291 

Bartlett Pear, 232 

Belle Lucrative Pear, 236 
25 



386 INDEX. 

Bell Pear, * 232 

Bergamot Pear, 235 
Blight — 

its nature, cause and treatment, 277-286 

fire, 272 

twig, 272 

frost, 275 

insect, 275 

of the quince, 372 

Blossom of the pear, 212 

Borer, the, its nature and how to destroy it, 98, 10 1 

" " pear tree, 295 

" " quince tree, 296 

Bosc Pear, 237 

Boussock Pear, 237 

Brandy, peach, 141 

Brandywine Pear, 232 

Buds, peach, how obtained, kind of, 40 

Buds, pear, 2 1 2 

Budding and grafting the pear, 218 

Budding peach trees, 39 

Buffum Pear, 237 

Business of peach growing, 34 

Butter Pear, 239 



Canning the peach, 137 

" " pear, 310 

Carbolic acid, fruit tree wash, 283 

Care of the young peach orchard, 47 



INDEX. 387 

m 

Chestnut, Spanish, The, 373 

Chlorine, etc., as fertilizers, 64 

Cin Cin Cis Pear, The . 244 

Clairgeau Pear, 239 

Clapp's Favorite Pear, 229 

Clover detrimental to peach growth, 67 

Cold storage of pears, 307 

Composition of peach wood, healthy and diseased, 56-57 

Conserving the pear, 311 

Conserving the peach, 140 

Cracking of the pear, 295 

Cracking of the pear, produced by fungus, 267 

Cracking of the peach bark, 301 

Crops, peach, gathering and marketing of, 127, 129 

Culling the pear, 306 

Cultivation of the peach orchard, 52 

Curculio, its nature and remedies, 103-105, 291 

Curled leaf, its cause, nature and treatment, 96 

D. 

Daimyo Pear, The, 244 

Danger attending transportation of peach trees, 42 

d'Anjou Pear, 237 

Dearborn Seedling Pear, 231 

Decaying of the pear, 295 

Delaware Fruit Exchange, The, 13 i 

Development of the pear from the ssed, 206 

Direction of Peach Tree rows, 39 

Diseases and enemies of the peach, y^ 

" " " " pear, 269 



388 INDEX, 

Diseased peach wood, Analysis of, 55*57 

" pear " " " 270 

Distance between the peach trees, 45 

" " " pear " 253 

Division of pear trees, 213 

Dix Pear, The, 238 

Dried, sun, peaches, 148 

Duchess Pear, 236 

Duty of Peninsula Fruit Growers to one another,. 377 

Duty of the State to her fruit interests, 378 

Dwarf pear, 223 

Dwarf pear orchard, 261 

E. 

Early Peninsula Peach Culture, 29 

Easter Pear, the, 243 

Elements, The, their effect on the pear, 294 

Enemies and diseases of the peach, 73 

" " " " pear, 269 

English Walnut or Madeira nut, The, 376 

Evaporating the peach, 142 

" " pear, 309 

Exchange, The Delaware Fruit, 131 

F. 

Fertilization of the peach orchard, 53-69 

Fertilizing the Peach tree, rules for, 58-59, 149 

" ** Pear " " " 262 

Fertilizers, etc. , formulae for, 67, 266 



INDEX. 389 

Filbert, The English, 377 

Fire as a remedy for Moths, 299 

Fire blight, 272 

Foliage, premature shedding of, 300 
Formulae for fertilizers, &c., 67, 266 

Frost, blight, 272 

Frost, its effect on peach growth, 93-96 

" " " pear " 300 

Frozen sap blight, 272 

Fruit blight, 276 

Fruit Exchange, The Delaware, 131 

Fruit Growers, Peninsula, their duty to one another, 377 

Fruit interests, The duty of the State to, 378 

Fruit, sun dried, (peaches,) 148 

G. 

Garber Pear, The, 242 

Gathering the peach crop, 127 

" " pear " 303 

Germicides, 69-71 

Green manure and lime, 58 

Grafting of the peach usually dispensed with, 40 

" " pear, 218 

" Tongue, 220 

Growing the peach tree from the seed, 37 

H. 

Hawaii Pear, The, 244 

Healthy peach leaves, 78 

*' peach wood, analysis of, 55-57 



390 INDEX. 

History of the peach, 27 

Housing the pear, 307 

Howell Pear, The, 234 

Hybrid Pears, 224 

L 

Insect blight, Pear, 275 

Individual description of pears, 229 

Introduction, respecting the peach, 27 

" " " pear, 205 

Iron as a fertilizer in peach culture, 65 



Julienne Pear, The, 232 

June Drop, of peaches. The, 97 

K. 

Kainit as a fertilizer, 62-63 

KiefTer Pear, The, 240 

L. 

Lawrence Pear, The, 242 

Lawson Pear, The, 242 

Leaf, curled, cause, nature and treatment of, 96 

Leather, peach, 140 

LeConte Pear, The, 234 

Lice, bark, how to destroy, 103 



INDEX. 391 

Lime, importance of and objection to, 59, 264 

List of pears that may be grown on the peninsula, 227 

Lists for orchards in different parts of the Peninsula, 117 

Locating the peach orchard, 43 

Lodge Pear, The, 234 

Louse, the peach, its destructive qualities, loi 

M. 

Madeira nut, 11^ 

Madeline Pear, The, 230 

Manning's Elizabeth Pear, 231 
Manure, green, objection to, S^* 264 

Marketing the peach crop, 129 

" " pear " 308 

Marmalades, peach, 141 

Maynard, Prof. S. T., on the peach, 85 

Mice, as enemies of the peach, 105 

Mice, as enemies of the Pear, remedy for, 244 

Mikado Pear, The, 244 

N. 

Natural history of the peach, 27 

Nursery, peach trees in, 3^ 

" The, 218 

Nuts, Chestnut and Walnut, 373j 37^ 

o. 

Objections to the use of green manure and lime. 58, 283 



392 INDEX. 

Orchards, peach, care of young, 47 

" " cultivation of, . 52 

" " location of, 43 

" " plans of, 150 

Ott Pear, The, 205 

Over feeding, 295 

Oyster scales, the pear tree, 292 

P. 

Peach — 

early Peninsula peach culture, 29 

evaporating the peach, 142 

gathering the peach crop, 127 

location of the peach orchard, 43 

marketing the crop, 129 

natural history of the peach, 27 

peach brandy, how to make, 142 

peach growing as a business, 34 

peach leather, how to make, 140 

peach preserves, pickles and marmalades, 141 

Peninsula fruit growers, their duty to one another, 377 

phosphoric acid as a fertilizer, 65-67 

plans for the peach orchard, 150 

planting the trees, time and manner of, 44 
planting the peach, when and where, 38-39, 43 

potash, importance of, as a fertilizer, 62-67 

pruning, 41, 47 

pruning as a fertilizer, 66 
psylla, the, its nature and treatment, 297, 298 

potash as a remedy for yellows, 77 



INDEX. 393 



time and manner of planting the seed and the tree, 


38-39» 44 


varieties of the Peninsula peach, 


107 


washes for peach trees, 


69-71 


Pear— 




anatomy and physiology of the tree, 


207 


blossom, perfect and imperfect, 


212 


budding and grafting. 


218 


buds of, 


212 


canning. 


212 


cold storage of, 


307 


crops which should be planted among pear trees. 


254 


development of the tree from the seed. 


206 


diseases and enemies of. 


269 


distance between the trees. 


253 


Dwarf, the, 


223 


enemies of the pear, 


269 


evaporating. 


131 


fertilizing, formulas for, 


262 


growing the pear as a business, 


215 


" " " , history of, on the Peninsula, 


214 


Hybrid Pears, 


214 


Hybrid trees, 


213 


individual descriptions of different varieties. 


229 


introduction respecting the pear. 


205 


natural history of. 


205 


orchards, the site and soil for Peninsula, 


251 


" Standards, 


259 


planting the trees. 


253-4 


propagation of the pear, 


217 


pruning the Dwarf tree. 


256 


" " Standard tree. 


255 



394 INDEX. 

Peninsula pear growing, 214 

Standard Pear tree, 213 

varieties of the pear grown on the Peninsula, 227 

washes, pear tree, 266 

when to plant the pear, 253 

Questions and answers to and from peach-growers, 153-201 

" " '' " " " pear-growers, 317-367 

Quince, the, 369 



R. 

Rabbits as enemies of the peach, 105 

" " '■ " " pear, remedy for, 244 

Relative value of varieties of peach, table of, 125 

*' " ** " " for evaporating, 145 

Remedies for pear blight, 280 

Rostiezer Pear, The, 233 

Remedies for yellows, 81 
Rules for fertilizing peach trees, S^-S9; ^49 

Riitter Pear, The, 239 

s. 

Saddle grafting, 220 

Salt as a fertilizer for the pear tree, 266 

Salt as a remedy for cracking pears, 267 

Scale insects, 291 



INDEX. 395 

Seed, peach, growing from, 37-3^ 

" pear, developing from, 206 

Seckel Pear, The, 239 

Seventeen year locust, the, 300 

Sha Lea Pear, The, 244 

Shapes of Pears, 226 

Sheldon Pear, The, 239 

Shellbarks, 377 

Shipping peaches to Europe, 201 

Slug, the, and its remedies, 286 
Soil, the proper kind of, 43-4> 25 1 

Spanish Chestnut, the, 373 
Standard Pear Tree, 213, 223 

Starvation of pear, 294 

State, the, its duty to fruit interests, 378 

Storage of pears, cold, 307 

Suet Lea Pear, ^ 244 

Summer Doyenne Pear, The, 230 

Sugar Pear, The, 230 

Sun-dried fruit, 148 

T. 

Table of relative value of the varieties of the peach, 125 

Table of ripening of the leading varieties of peach, *22 

Tar paper as a protection against mice and rabbits, 105 

The peach, natural history of, 27 

Thrips, their destructive qualities, 10 1 
Time and manner of planting the peach seed, 38-40, 45 

Time of ripening, table of, 122 

Tongue Grafting, 220 



(C (( 



tl <i 



396 INDEX. 

Transportation of peach trees, danger attending, 42 

Treatment of yellows, 81 

Trees, peach, care of, 47 

danger attending transportation of, 42 

growing from the seed, 37-38 

in the nursery, 38 

Tyson Pear, The, 233 

u. 

Unhealthy peach leaves, 78 

" " wood, analyses of, 55-57 

" pear '< " <« 270 

Urban iste Pear, 238 



Value of varieties of the peach, 125 

Varieties of the peach for the Peninsula, 107 

, relative value of, 125 

pear, 223 

Vicar of Winkfield Pear, 243 

w. 

Walnut, English, the 376 

Wash, carbolic acid, fruit tree, 283 

Wash, Randolph Peter's, 151 

" for destroying bark lice, 103 

Wash, The Saunders Agricultural Grounds pear tree, 299 






INDEX. 



397 



Washes, peach tree, 69-71 

" pear tree, 266 

Washington Pear, 238 

Water, importance of proximity to the peach orchard,? 43 

" " pear « 252 

When and where to plant the peach, 38-39, 43 

When to plant the pear, 253 

Winter Nells Pear, 243 

Wood ashes as a fertilizer, 62 

Wood, peach, healthy and diseased, analysis of, 55*57 

Work for each month of the year in the fruit orchard, 3 1 1 

Y. 

Yellows, its cause, symptoms and treatment, 74-81 



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